rider

Seeing Premium fuel in Japan is 95 RON I've never had any guilt issues filling my Supra up with Sainsbury fuel since 1998.

I just bought the set of brake callipers (front and rear) run in the classifieds on this forum for £100 delivered. So I also recon £100 is about right. Discs and pads are so cheap to buy new and the discs so heavy to post they will probably be scrap parts.

That was the right colour to. It comes down to right place at the right time. Johnny did well with the Chilli purchase just needs to be patient for the parts to bring it to where its going.

Keep hunting.

I'm not sure 60k, 100k or 140k matters on a 20+ year old car. I have a 52 year old car with 38k on the clock, could be 38k, 138k, 238k. When cars get old its the condition and maintenance fastidiousness that matters not a few LEDs than may have been tampered with or may not.

Daiken used mini scroll compressors in the light commercial a/c range when I was involved in that market area but that is about 20 years ago now. Visited their factory in Japan a few times to push oils for their compressors. Assuming nothings changed you don't need to worry where the oil is in the system as the refrigerant will bring it back to the compressor when the compressor runs. From a compressor standpoint it isn't a big deal how they are stood as the internal configuration is designed for how they run.

Clean and cheap aren't usually two words employed together that will entice people to part with their original Supra parts. Probably be best for you to wait for a strip thread and pounce on the frame. I did, but it definitely wasn't cheap.

Its all very straightforward but one thing to remember is you are dealing with council employees. You can either go for outline planning or full planning with aspect and detailed architect plans. You'll presumably be looking at outline seeing you have no intention to build yourself. The first thing to check out is the council online planning portal for other construction applied for in the local area. Any will give you precedence either for rejection or acceptance. Obviously its much more use to have precedence where similar developments in the area have been granted. Look at any objections or comments or restriction and that will tell you what locals and the council planners will agree to and wont agree to. When I put in my original double two storey garage the architect oversized the plans by 25% on the length. Such that it wouldn't actually then fit where the planned build was going to be sited. Architect knew what he was doing, because he had a shed load of experience of dealing with the local planners, as they cut the size down to what we actually wanted and what would fit where it was supposed to fit. But before you bother getting plans drawn up, filling out forms and sending them in with a cheque do the due diligence on planning history in the area first.

It is shouting scam out of the page. I'll put a offer in an let everyone know the Worldpay address to send the money to so it can be collected in Nigeria.

For the p/s pump first up check the fluid level. A little volume drop in the reservoir will make a dramatic its working to its not working difference. Have some Dextron III to hand. Then its down to is the belt tight, with no slippage. If you raise the front wheels and move the wheels from full lock to full lock then you should hear the fluid being pumped plus this will help bleed any vapour lock that may have occurred in the system if the level has been allowed to get a bit lower than desirable. If the fluid is brown or smells burnt it needs changing. Its unusual for the pump to fail so its a lot more likely to be belt slip or fluid related.

I've promised my Supra to my grandson. he has only just started Primary School so I have lots of years yet before he gets his hands on my keys. I think supras will increasingly be handed down in families till someone wants to cash in for a good chunk of cash or a deposit for a home. Enjoy the drive.

Undeniably true. I had my supra undersealed maybe 15 years ago. It has fallen off in clumps particularly on the rear sub frame and on the floor panel around the rear wheels and what was underneath wasn't exactly rust free. So any areas where the underseal has failed are being treated and repainted so that any return of rust can be clearly seen. If I had my opportunity again I would never have had the underside undersealed. I would have gone for a corrosion resistant polymer paint instead, just like the stuff that is on my wrought iron railings. No chance of rust on those and the finish is good to; probably because I painted them.

A heater in the garage is the last thing you need if you are worried about corrosion. For a given set of moisture and acid conditions then the rate of corrosion ramps up with higher temperature. You ideally want an air conditioner that will maintain a constant, cool, temperature with constant, low, humidity. Failing that, second best is a dehumidifier. The heater should be thrown out. http://www.amteccorrosion.co.uk/images/webpapers/soa/diagram1.gif

I have a really old vacuum driven auto box on another car so electronics and solenoid switches are a more modern thing altogether. It is something that can force a lock in park so just another thing to look at. You might be able to hear it if its working, if you cannot hear it that could be because its too quiet or its not working due to failure or lack of power.

There is one listed for sale (£30) on a current sales thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?340444-Various-Parts

Reads like you could have a problem with the solenoid switch in the console which usually only occurs when someone spills their beer over the selector.

Probably best to tout for others in your local area who you can chat to and who may even be available to go see cars with you if that suits all parties. The main thing to look out for is rust on the sub frames, the tailgate and also the sills (though they are mostly covered by the side skirts). Mechanically things are usually pretty bullet proof. Any modified car (single turbo etc) I'd recommend get rolling road tested but you say you are mostly looking at n/a's. Oil burning is not a problem on the 2JZ engines. You can get a puff of smoke at start up due to failed valve guide seals (due to age) but that is only a little bit of oil and you wouldn't notice it. I have never topped up my oil level between services. In fact it has never dropped between services. If you can stretch your budget the manuals are more desirable and the twin turbo versions are more desirable as well. But I'd expect you may well have selected NA autos for a reason of budget. There is a nice looking 040 manual Supra on eBay now for £7k. Good luck with the hunt.

Looks like you have a fair bit of surface rust on the shock tower. I'd get that sanded fast and black matt painted before it develops to anything pitted. That's a real simple job that will make a massive difference to the look of your engine bay. If these are corroded you probably should take a look at the underside of your brake booster. They can tend to get surface rusting as well which as well as being unsightly its a fairly expensive part to replace.

In the World of classic cars a ploy often employed for engines that have sat for decades is to put a splash of diesel into each bore and hand rotate the engine a few turns just to lubricate the cylinders and rings before cranking.

it has potential but does seems a little contrived at times, but then so often did the old Top Gear. Adhering probably too closely to the old format which I felt was getting a bit tired anyway so could do with a change of material, maybe into more real world rather than focussing on £200k supercars and top of the line Porsche 911's.

Its not looking like anyone has volunteered to sell you one so you can have my spare seal, not to buy but to replace as soon as Keron gets a fresh supply in. PM your address and I'll get it on a courier over to you. Let me know if you want to pay extra for a 24hr or 48hr service? PM me if its still something you need.

If you are following ACAS procedures then you will be covered from any litigation or tribunal enquiries. If you post specifics on the business forum you'll have a ton of helpful advice from plenty of professionals. http://www.ukbusinessforums.co.uk/

Not that I would vouch for this tactic or condone this in any way as a nil point driver myself but I had someone working for me who needed his licence to keep his job. 9pts and another speeding notice. Returned the notice filled in but unsigned three times and didn't hear from them after that. If the form is unsigned, apparently, it cannot be processed.

If you'd prefer it stored indoors till you get here I could put it in my barn pending collection or onward movement to anywhere else. The recovery Dnk quoted at £200 wouldn't be affected much as we aren't that far apart, though weight might be a problem for that recovery option? There is a full rise 2 poster here as well so you could have a poke around underneath if you felt the need or urge to. Happy to store FOC if only for a short while. Anything above two or three weeks and I'd need to charge storage. Best airport to fly into would be Manchester rather than one of the London airports.

I have one very recently removed from a TT - what price you thinking of?