rider

I had the garage replace the dust shields and bearings on both front wheels seeing they were original ones on the car. Turns out the original, 21 year old, bearings had a fair amount of corrosion inside. Car is much quieter on the open road now with the new bearings. Going to have the back two changed next year, figuring all four on new bearings will either see the car through my lifetime of my life with the car. Also had new tailgate struts fitted as the old, again original ones would drop the tailgate at the slightest hint of wind. Car sailed through the MOT as expected. Mechanic did say the bearings were a pig, bitch, pain to swap out so glad I didn't decide to tackle that job myself. PS - Jake gave me an old set of struts to send off the SGS Engineering for refurb. So, if anyone else needs to replace theirs and wants a set ready to fit before removing their own let me know and they can have my old ones sent to them or direct to SGS. Only proviso being they then make their old ones available to others at no cost (except postage).

I always evaluate an insurer not on their price but on their customer service when you need to make a claim. I'd be happy paying a premium price to know any claim is dealt with fairly, quickly and without fuss. I went LV, not the absolute cheapest but they come number one in customers satisfaction surveys and they turn out some highly competitive prices to. You only know how good your insurance is, when you come to use it.

This is why people need to move to agreed value on Supras ASAP. There is an aero on eBay for £20k at the moment. Send them a copy of that ad to get them thinking. I'd venture they aren't going to know the brand sufficiently well to tell what adds value and what doesn't. But, if they are running the rule over book prices you'll probably be fighting up from £4k.

The last time I saw one of these advertised was on eBay Australia about 9 months ago. Unless one pops up from your request you'd be best lodging a forward order with the regular car breakers to get one in the pipeline. Stock air boxes, like gold dust. So are stock steering wheels. So are becoming stock road wheels. Already hard to track down, they are all going to be worth a little ransom in years to come.

You'd have to grab a bigger bag of cash.

I'm not sure the colour will be mainstream which could enhance the value to some and detract for everyone else.

If you are referring to the big red blob in the middle of the dial, have you checked that the brake fluid level is not low?

Even though Supra prices are on the rise I recon for £18k, even today, potential buyers expect pretty much everything working as it should and bodywork looking great. Parts like ABS sensors, Toyota only had one remaining (from 4) in stock last time I asked 4 months ago. You can't get boot plastic anymore either. So things not working or missing are increasingly going to create headaches or live with it for any new owners. I don't think its just me, but for around £20k I'd expect a all round intact and totally sorted car. Why not buy in a cheap NA and replacing your missing parts to get together a complete car. Then you'd probably rock your £18k asking price and either sell on or break the NA for extra cash back.

Just to add to some of the earlier comments. The Max ATF is purely for auto boxes. its a synthetic upgrade to a lot of the older mineral oil ATF's used in big American cars of the 60's. Synchromax, the hint is in the name is for manual gears in gearboxes that specify ATF fluids. ATF was introduced into manual boxes largely as a fuel efficiency measure over historic mono grade and later thicker (than ATF) multi-grade mineral and synthetic gear oils.

Is the hotel room booking for a double or twin. I could ask a mate if he fancies a run down to Germany but, although he is my mate, I wouldn't really want to share a bed with him. He is a mechanic so the handy kind to have around. Still wouldn't want to sleep with him though.

Used them for my Supra stainless 10 years ago now. Was great, they just ask what you want in terms of noise, size materials and then tell you to go off for a couple of hours and then back to pick up your car. You did have to book an appointment though when I had my exhaust built. Cost me a fortune, £100.

The only thing you need to look at when buying an air compressor is the cfm rating. Anything at or above 14 and you will be fine running most air tools. Spray painting you can get away with lower. A decent size receiver tank is a useful buffer, to give you more time before running out of puff if your air tool uses more air then the compressor can replensih. I always go for 14 cfm with a 50l minimum tank. Useful giude http://www.specialisedwelding.co.uk/manuals/Air_Compressor_Manuals/Air%20Tool%20Consumption%20Guide.pdf

I hate welding because I'm no good at it. Have had an arc welder for years that I use on metal gates, railings and massive swing hinges. I decided to buy a Clark flux core welder which I have used on one of my cars and it must be one of the crappy ones because it has the curved wire feed and only cost £150 which definately isn't the cheapest. Never had any problems with it at all, other than my welding ability. But thats what grinders are for anyway.

When you do, can you provide a synopsis. In more than one paragraph?

Really hard to read but another single come up on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEAUTIFUL-GREY-RIDOX-SUPRA-BIG-SPEC-640BHP-ULTIMATE-STREET-CAR-/282432378986?hash=item41c248186a:g:fScAAOSww3tY75UH

Get yourself a 5m length of clear pipe (so you can tackle any wheel) run from the opened calliper bleed to the reservoir run past the front screen and keep on pumping till you no longer see any air rising in the line. If that doesn't sort it there should be a bleed screw on the ABS pump. Never had any problems myself with air locks using this approach and its a one person approach for those with reluctant helpers at home.

All ready for Japfest. Looks like your winters work has been well worth while. Cars is looking great.

Any mods happening by - please move this thread to the parts for sale part.

The kits were discussed in thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?341099-A-C-Condenser-kits-gauging-interest Confrming price to club members is £260 plus shipping. Shipping to be organised by buyer so that the appropriate to the buyer level of insurance can be incorporate. Alternatively, collection welcome. Buyers have committed from the original thread and assuming they complete the purchase then there is one kit remaining available. I will list this kit on eBay for £350 plus shipping some time in May if it doesn't find a new home beforehand. The OE condensers are only made by Denso (discontinued stock item by Toyota) and they are Supra specific (all models 93 - 02). Denso would not disclose to me if the condenser remains in production.

Better still, check out the Scooby forum. Makes whats been said here seem like this forum is part of the High Wycombe fan club.

Best put in a request with the usual breakers, like Keron, for the air box, intakes and ducting. They don't come up very often and there will be lots of demand going forward as people look to reinstate that OE air box over time and it seems not many got passed on with the cars and must either be sitting on garage shelves forgotten or got binned The same applies to OE steering wheels and road wheels, must have been loads binned and scrapped over the years.

£100 for an oil cap, whats it do that special?

What would be the difference between this ultra rare seat and the thousands fitted to US and Euro spec cars?

Lots of US parts sites list the bolt for $14 - $19, can't cost much to post a single bolt other than time.