rider

Used them for my Supra stainless 10 years ago now. Was great, they just ask what you want in terms of noise, size materials and then tell you to go off for a couple of hours and then back to pick up your car. You did have to book an appointment though when I had my exhaust built. Cost me a fortune, £100.

The only thing you need to look at when buying an air compressor is the cfm rating. Anything at or above 14 and you will be fine running most air tools. Spray painting you can get away with lower. A decent size receiver tank is a useful buffer, to give you more time before running out of puff if your air tool uses more air then the compressor can replensih. I always go for 14 cfm with a 50l minimum tank. Useful giude http://www.specialisedwelding.co.uk/manuals/Air_Compressor_Manuals/Air%20Tool%20Consumption%20Guide.pdf

I hate welding because I'm no good at it. Have had an arc welder for years that I use on metal gates, railings and massive swing hinges. I decided to buy a Clark flux core welder which I have used on one of my cars and it must be one of the crappy ones because it has the curved wire feed and only cost £150 which definately isn't the cheapest. Never had any problems with it at all, other than my welding ability. But thats what grinders are for anyway.

When you do, can you provide a synopsis. In more than one paragraph?

Really hard to read but another single come up on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEAUTIFUL-GREY-RIDOX-SUPRA-BIG-SPEC-640BHP-ULTIMATE-STREET-CAR-/282432378986?hash=item41c248186a:g:fScAAOSww3tY75UH

Get yourself a 5m length of clear pipe (so you can tackle any wheel) run from the opened calliper bleed to the reservoir run past the front screen and keep on pumping till you no longer see any air rising in the line. If that doesn't sort it there should be a bleed screw on the ABS pump. Never had any problems myself with air locks using this approach and its a one person approach for those with reluctant helpers at home.

All ready for Japfest. Looks like your winters work has been well worth while. Cars is looking great.

Any mods happening by - please move this thread to the parts for sale part.

The kits were discussed in thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?341099-A-C-Condenser-kits-gauging-interest Confrming price to club members is £260 plus shipping. Shipping to be organised by buyer so that the appropriate to the buyer level of insurance can be incorporate. Alternatively, collection welcome. Buyers have committed from the original thread and assuming they complete the purchase then there is one kit remaining available. I will list this kit on eBay for £350 plus shipping some time in May if it doesn't find a new home beforehand. The OE condensers are only made by Denso (discontinued stock item by Toyota) and they are Supra specific (all models 93 - 02). Denso would not disclose to me if the condenser remains in production.

Better still, check out the Scooby forum. Makes whats been said here seem like this forum is part of the High Wycombe fan club.

Best put in a request with the usual breakers, like Keron, for the air box, intakes and ducting. They don't come up very often and there will be lots of demand going forward as people look to reinstate that OE air box over time and it seems not many got passed on with the cars and must either be sitting on garage shelves forgotten or got binned The same applies to OE steering wheels and road wheels, must have been loads binned and scrapped over the years.

£100 for an oil cap, whats it do that special?

What would be the difference between this ultra rare seat and the thousands fitted to US and Euro spec cars?

Lots of US parts sites list the bolt for $14 - $19, can't cost much to post a single bolt other than time.

A personal suggestion would be take it off the market for three months and see where things go and where you are at. There has been so many single turbo manual and auto cars come up recently its a busy market place which wont be helping your sale. The only ones definitely sold that I know of have departed the UK or been broken for parts, so maybe in the meantime try some of the German and Swedish outlets to tap into the weaker £.

So no one has actually been to view the car. I'd be one for hold onto it if you don't need to sell. Its very unlikely to devalue unless something breaks.

Greased Lightneing are doing a 20% discount this weekend on their products, which includes Shrowroom Shine that I use myself as a quick polish. Discount code is EASTER20. https://www.greasedlightning.co.uk/

Did you keep the original spoiler, just gives any potential buyer a colour correct option if the "Big gay wing" isn't their thing?

Thats a bummer, I don't think its compulsory to take a Supra but if you don't have a spare car then its going to be a problem. Have you asked about cancelling with the organisers? There should be time unless everything is on a strictly non refundable basis. If the chunnel ticket is non flexible there may be problems or an admin charge to reassign to another vehicle. Unless your booking includes all the meal and carting extras then you will probably need to heavily discount on the price you paid as there are still places left according to the shop availability, so the event was never oversubscribed and the last ticket was taken up a while ago now. Hope it works out whichever way it pans out.

When I built a single story extension in 1992 the foundations needed be sufficient to take a two story build. So the extension had 4 foot footings when the house itself had 6 inches. The easiest way to check is as others have mentioned, dig a small trench alongside the wall and see how deep things go.

I have a set of bilstein shocks, no springs. Treated the car to a new set last year, the ones that came off were fine. Done 100k miles. PM an offer if interested in a set of OE yellow bilstein shocks.

Looking really good and clean enough to lick. Surely you must be finished now? If you want to sell the original air box and associated intakes plus tubing let me know.

10W/50 is too thick unless you are planning high temperature endurance running. The OE spec is 10w/30 for fuel economy and you should have a sticker on the rocker for 10W/30. 10W/40 is fine if you want to run a higher oil pressure in older engines. Should probably add I used to formulate engine oils for a living and I interchange the 30 and 40 synthetics dependent on which is on offer when I'm buying.