rider

All a/c units have a pressure sensor for the clutch circuit, so it won't run if the system pressure falls below a certain positive pressure; usually around 11psi. This is to prevent the a/c compressor sucking in atmosphere if a major leak in the system were to occur. I'd suspect a faulty pressure sensor. Whoever fitted your new pump and recharged you refrigerant should be able to check the sensor is good, or not so good. Whoever said it was the pump should pay for your pump.

I bought a jspec (are the different?) one not to long ago, from Toyota. Cheap as chips.

I'm not sure that'll be a dilemma breaker. You never know though, might just be the part that breaks the dilemma. I just hate seeing cars broken that could be rebuilt and the thought it could be a clock that swings it, thats sad.

Until you go 600 I'd stick to stock clutch/flywheel. I did 106,000 miles on the factory clutch (85k under my own boot) with 330bhp hub so when it finally needed replacing, I went factory clutch. Seeing the factory clutch is throw away cheap why wouldn't you until you need something a little bit more special? There is no point going for the harsher snap change, stiffer pedal and noisier flywheel until you have to.

If it were mine, and I do have plenty of sit and store room in my 0.4 acre barn, I'd strip all the interior parts, exterior plastic, lights and store the shell. If British Motor Heritage can charge £10,200 for a MGB Roadster shell then who know what someone will pay for a TT6 Supra shell in ten years time or twenty years time? I recon a pristine never knocked never been rusted shell would be well worth hanging onto. It matters jack shit what you paid for it or anything else. If it cost £15k to put back together with good recycled or new parts it'd be worth twice that within a few years anyway. As the saying goes, two is company and three is a crowd. You only have a company of Supras at the moment, why not get crowded?

Interesting you get a letter advising increased premiums on increased value followed by a letter that doesn't mention any refund on lowered value. Its fishy, or is it a rat I smell.

They will love that, on their premium number. I talked with them a fair bit today as well - cha ching.

See, Supras. The only car in the World that repairs itself.

Ran an alternative quote on the FJ website with the only difference the vehicle value. At £24k value the premiums are £59 or 32% higher than for a £12k vehicle value. No response from FJ if they would refund the additional premium for cover value they would not honour. Their letter advising rejection makes no mention of any refund due on a lowered value. I smell a potential scam.

Sub frame cracking is common and being common its pretty damning on BMW engineers being able to stress factor design properly.

The potential fairly serious financial issue here is the premiums quoted and paid for naturally rise or fall relative to the value you seek to insure. I've posed the question, in an email, asking would the 'extra' premium on the £12k difference between the insurance as set up from my valuation relative to their half price market valuation be refunded. Should their answer be no then its potentially another PPI type of scam where people pay to over insure relative to the actual insurance in effect. I can feel a letter to the insurance ombudsman welling up if they ignore my email or answer with a no.

Cancelled the Footman arranged insurance after 4 days following a letter rejecting the agreed value sum in favour of their market assessment of £12k. They would require a recognised third party valuation o insure for any amount over £12k. Try getting a TT6 for £12k, Footman think you can. Back to LV, no faffing around with them.

Just set up an new classic car agreed value policy through Footman James and after it started (paid for 20 days beforehand) received a letter advising that they have rejected my replacement valuation and it'll revert to market value of £12,000 without a recognised third party supporting valuation. Anyone using Footman should note there will be additional costs for any independent valuation over premiums quoted. Told them to stuff it even though I could easily get a third party valuation from the trade, cancelled the policy and have gone back to the former insurer, LV. Primarily because I'm pissed they waited till after the policy start date to tell me and I regard my time as worth more than a little bit of money on premiums and lost time faffing around.

Seems a genuine car with honest write up. Could be just what someone is looking for in a lightly modded TT6. https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/toyota/supra/toyota-supra-twin-turbo-6-speed/7255464#&gid=1&pid=2

My car did that 12 years ago. It lasted about 3 months then it became an intermittent fault. Then about 11 years ago it fixed itself again and has been fine since, never did track down a cause. I suspect it was a water problem as it first occurred after a prolonged period of torrential rain.

Do you have the pre Photoshop highlights, contrast tweak and sharpening pics?

These sale and what's it worth threads get wackier by the day.

Any decent refrigeration engineer can fabricate/change plumbing or replace compression olives. Take it your mechanic isn't a refrigeration engineer, which begs the question where did he get the gas from as you have to be a certified refrigeration engineer since 2015 to buy refrigerant in cylinders.

In 2008, a NA auto would have been worth around £1500 so could have been written of by an insurer for a scratched bumper. Still £7k does seem a bit of a long shot.

The M3's have a lot of weak points. Aside from the auto box, the VONOS system being troublesome but nothing quite as damning as the . BMW M3's, particularly the E46s offer up plenty of good reasons to stick to Jap reliability. Maybe this shift issue video could point to something to check, ?

The jspec rear pads are the same as the Soarer pads 123X41X16mm

There are bargains to be had. Like the eBay ones listed last year TT6s for £8k in England and Ireland. They are gone in a few minutes though and come back a few days later for about £10k more. Its down to timing, pure and simple. For your money, you need someone to need or want to be selling and have the money already earmarked for another purchase. Its worth the wait or even buying over market as Supra prices will double again over the next 7 years for collectable, desireable or investable ones. By which time the dogs or the by then older out of date modifieds will mostly be stripped anyway.

Think that's where a lot of the older longer term owners are at. There is no point having cash in the bank to just look at a few extra zeros gaining maybe £2 a month interest over having a Supra sitting in the garage appreciating a lot more than £2 a month and you can get it out occasionally for a fun drive.

The guy who made the offer to Jake at the NEC then came and talked to me and said he had offered £27k. That is strong money for a Supra TT6 but when you factor in that car has had £10k of parts and lot of labour thrown at it recently then is it really that strong? If someone wants to prise a prized possession from an owner of anything then you'd need to start at a 30% premium and work from there so £21k isn't going to do it for a good car with good credentials. My car with 19 years service history, original white paint and all original matching numbers, I'd sell for £18k if I wanted to sell or £30k (maybe) if someone wanted to buy. Always best, by far, to wait till one comes up for sale.

Don't these need a mounting bracket?