rider

Quick trawl suggests a ECU reset might sort it. Only hard fix found was a failed (dry joint) 2.4kohm resistor on the back of the odometer.

Seeing there are a few things surfacing I'd have thought it'd be best sent back to JM rather than have a third party get involved. At least JM are familiar with these cars. Be a good idea to get them to fit their tailored leather seat covers at the same time to protect the front seats. Supras are unbelievably reliable so just get over the teething problems and all should become well.

I thought the rear quarter glasses were no longer available from Toyota, since about 9 months ago. I'd have to say the OE bonnet is a massive improvement.

Welcome to Supra World. Probably the home of one of the most reliable cars in the World. Your a/c issue sounds strange. If the compressor is kicking in you must have gas in the system as there is a low pressure cut off for the compressor clutch. It should be blowing mildly cooler air even on low refrigerant charge. Shame Jurgen didn't check it out as it could be a slow leak system and that could prove expensive to fix.

You need quite long bolts for the back to reach the plate. Think I went 30mm M6, check the thread size first though. I only remember it being M6.

For the rear you only need a couple of bolts, M6's I think they are. I used to just have the rears on double sided but that'd need changing every couple of years, since I've bolted the plate down its not going anywhere.

Be warned though, Amayama terms reserve the right to charge and then cancel an order or part of the order. This has happened to me when I was ordering bushes and padded the order out with things I wasn't really fussed over to spread the freight cost over a decent £ amount order. Amayama then shipped the padding and advised, with parts refund, the bushes were no longer available and there was no planned restocking. So ended up the parts I wasn't fussed about and ended up buying the missing parts from a USA supplier with high freight penalty. So you can get screwed over shopping with Amayama. With Amayama the time will come when you order an essential part and a new set of bolts to secure the part and you'll just get the set of, very expensive, bolts.

No MOT history available for this 1998 imported colour clash super low mileage car, I'd suspect the mileage is a good bit to super. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-supra-twin-turbo-manual-original-2JZ-/332254990221?hash=item4d5bf0cf8d:g:8QMAAOSwAPVZN9wB

Price just lowered on PH - now £14,250.

Some top TT6's and autos still around.

I'm just bringing one in through Toyota and its a few weeks from order to delivery. Also ordered new straps, they are on 6 weeks delivery. Figured I didn't want to get tank guard off and then find the support straps needed doing. My old guard has corrosion on the front but I won't know how bad it is till it comes off. There is no perforation but may be when I tackle the rust, if that's recoverable I'll be selling it on. I also know of two owners who have one or more spare guards so you may get an offer of a decent recycled one for about half the price of a new one if they happen by this thread.

It has come down £5k in price, but then it has been for sale for a long time. The seat wear is bad for a 60k miler. Guess the lumbers have been tested to destruction by that big single power g-force. Original silver by the look of the under bonnet. May not even have been a original TT6 being described as a 2JZ car. That engine bay look like no one has bothered lifting the bonnet for a long time, except to take a picture. At £20k, I'd bite Chris's hand off for his £14.5k single former TT6 out of preference.

What do you call as low mileage? Anything under 9k miles a year is below average mileage. I struggle to believe the number of 20 year old Jap imports on 60k miles there are after 20 years, probably because my own import did 18k miles in its first 2 years on Japanese roads. Recommendation would be buy on condition and verifiable history rather than what the LEDs say.

I may be able to store the shell, either as a rolling shell or just the body shell on a bespoke pallet that can be picked up and moved around by my telehandler. As a rebuild project in the future its going to have a better chance as a rolling shell otherwise it'll just be to rebody someones bashed or rusted away body.Give me a call sometime next week and we can see if it makes any sense.

I have cancelled the FJ arranged policy and reverted back to LV on the prior agreed value £24k. It wasn't worth the cost and hassle to get a valuation letter from somewhere that FJ then may not even recognise as coming from a bonafide source let alone agree with. Just too many hoops for the case of what - the LV policy was £20 more on renewal to a bit higher than that when arrange on the day.

I received a response back from FJ saying they note whatever valuation the individual puts on it and will pay up to that, using whatever the market value is at the time as their guideline. So they were happy to take my £24k value premium and keep it but run with a market value of £12k guideline in the case of a total loss. I have written a pretty detailed report to the Financial Ombudsman on the apparent unfairness of this so hopefully they will investigate it and issue some kind of dictate on it. But whichever way if you don't have an agreed value certificate your premiums seem to count for squat other than the broker saying thanks that'll do nicely. If there is anything of note arising from any correspondence with the Ombudsman I'll log it on this thread for the record.

NFU Mutual are really good. I have two tractors with the NFU because they are the only company that includes, with tractor insurance, insurance for any hitch impliments as part of the policy. I'd recommend people check that out if they aren't already insuring their tractors through the NFU. From their car insurance handbook: Maximum Amount Payable The maximum WE will pay will be: a)the MARKET VALUE of the CAR or, b)the value shown on the SCHEDULE, whichever is less. Maybe one day they will do classic car insurance, but that day is not today.

I wouldn't count on that. I really wouldn't. I had a response back from FJ saying they note whatever valuation the individual puts on it and will pay up to that, using whatever the market value is at the time as their guideline. So they were happy to take my £24k value premium and keep it but run with a market value of £12k guideline in the case of a total loss. I think we can work out how that'd pan out. I have written a pretty detailed report to the Financial Ombudsman on the apparent unfairness of this (or is it just plain theft of premiums?) so hopefully they will investigate it and issue some kind of dictate on it. But whichever way if you don't have an agreed value certificate your premiums seem to count for squat other than the broker saying thanks that'll do nicely.

I'd search for any specs on the pump pressure relief valve rating and hope it came out as 130psi.

Buying a Supra, really depends what you are looking to do with it. Have it as a daily runner, a second car that will likely return you a profit should you sell on at some point in the future or something of a canvas to stick a big turbo and massive brakes onto and have some track fun in your life. The answers would be different as investible comes down to colour choice and originality and daily runner would come down to history and reliability and for a track car you'd want good strong mechanicals as a starting point. Maybe if you disclose what area of the country the car is located some community inspired member would accompany you and be able to help you evaluate the car against what your expectations are.

I remember seeing that when it was listed in Japan and aside from thinking thats not a good look, I think it had massive km on it by Japanese standards. but my memory is fading as I get older. A very low 45,000 miles now though.

And its not even a sales thread. I'll take the sub frames, the clock, arms, drivers door, drivers window regulator, front wings, big diff; recon there could be a market for those.

I don't think we could survive the feeding frenzy, especially for your newly painted tailgate. it would get ugly.

There are roads to Shropshire. Some coloured blue to. London to CW in a Supra 2.5hrs. Set off at 5am and you'd be back for supper.

Of course there are simpler things to check first, like the 10A clutch fuse. Have you checked that is OK, mind you if its blown aside from a bare metal short that would usually indicate a compressor partial or full seizure problem. There is a relay as well that you can short (bypass) with a paperclip to force the clutch to engage. Maybe your relay is frazzled, 20 year old relays can fail? Always best to check fuses and relays before tackling the hardware.