rider

Just received my tank all scratched back to bare metal in parts. On all the parts I'm getting its a dry fine sand, two coats of primer and three layers of black acrylic paint. Plus it'll be up on a ramp once a year so the new parts shouldn't rust, the rest of the car might but not the expensive new parts.

Care is required with Windows 10 as some older software isn't compatible, even under compatibility settings. My accountancy software doesn't run on Windows 10 so it was a decision whether to stick with what I had (avoiding the then free upgrade) or buy new software. I stuck.

It is very quiet compared to a few years ago, maybe a couple of mods still happen by but that's about it. Lots of singles have died in bits and many people moved onto Datsuns. The only 'busy' section these days is parts so if the OP decides to break his car, then there will still be lots of interest. Maybe the mk4 is just to specialist today with not many doing many miles as most now seem to be parked up for posterity, something I admit to being guilty of but after 19 years of trouble free ownership it deserves a comfortable retirement. If the OP lived close to me, I'd be available to pop over to see if I could help out so hopefully all the good spirited Yorkshire owners will be in touch to offer their support and services.

The most expensive part of a dash cam, like any camera, is the lens. I went for an expensive GPS dash cam so you can actually read from the recordings the number plates of moving cars. Not many dash cams have lens focal clarity good enough to do that.

I wouldn't lose faith after two years. Give it a bit longer. There has to be someone near to you who could help out. There are so many things it could be beyond electrical. It sounds like it could as easily be a fuel problem. Hopefully someone can come over, maybe run a compression test and check out the timing and spark for you and also check the fuel pump pressure and get you rolling again.

Looks like its up for sale again. Only now at £31k. https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/toyota/supra/toyota-supra-rz-top-secret-650bhp/7359429#

I probably should get some roll bar bushes as well while I'm at it, I'm assuming jspec will be the 22mm bush, can anyone confirm that for me?

I'm planning a pretty major overhaul of back end underneath early next year and have most of the parts in place: Second hand TT sub frame with j spec hubs (also with ABS sensors) - I'll have the wheel bearings changed so I know they are going to see me out. New OE frame diff mount rubbers (I actually bought 2 sets in case I get around to buying a second Supe) New OE hand brake shoes and springs New OE tank guard and tank bands. New OE exhaust hanger (original appears to have been removed by the bespoke exhaust people) New OE heat shield (original appears to have been removed by the bespoke exhaust people) New exhaust (got a Nur R on order - arriving around October) I recon I'll spend about £3k on parts and labour when its all done. Is there anything I've missed that I should get the parts in for like bushes for top mount on diff or others or should I just check condition of everything when the current frame is removed? If anything is recycle quality after it gets swapped out I'll clean it up and put it in the for sale section. There is rust on the tank guard front but I wont know how bad that is till its off and tackled. A lot of the parts took 6 weeks to get hold of after paying for them! Not an issue seeing the work won't begin for another 10 months.

Saw that a few days back. Didn't bother posting it up in the sale section as its expensive for the mish-mash body styling on a 93 silver. Not sure where a white dash on a silver car works into peoples consciousness as a good idea. I really doubt the owner will see any potential buyers at that price or anywhere near that price even if the car wasn't backed by a fairly unfriendly advert. There is a much better £14250 TT6 on PH at the moment, if its still for sale.

Have you considered painting the FMIC black? The big shiny slab of silver distracts from the front end. black would look better and you'd go faster to.

If you have lots of error codes and no ac - it really needs to go back to JM to sort out and get them to leather the front seats for not doing the pdi properly.

FJ didn't make my Christmas Card list. LV are still one of the lower cost with a minimum mileage of 5000 a year on classic car insurance and they come near to top on satisfaction surveys. If the Supra is your second car you'd do worse than check out what LV are offering. Admiral were always cheapest for me on a first car, no claims tied to, Supra insurer.

I should probably add that if you do top off a system yourself you do need to ensure you don't grossly overcharge the amount of gas. So only do it with a hose and inline gauge, Charge into the low pressure line, suction side of the compressor. The correct way to charge a system is actually on weight not pressure as pressure does vary with ambient conditions. Charging to inlet pressure with the compressor running (12 - 14psi) is fine but not the handbook way which is charging by weight but charging to pressure reading is a whole lot better than putting a full service can of R134a into the system because you have paid for it.

Sounds more serious than the alternator with the Christmas tree lights. Check the battery voltage when running, if its just shy of 14V then the alternator is fine.

If you have a thermometer, preferably a probe, shove it into the air vent and set the flaps to the vents. A good ac result would be 7C on a normal day. Higher on a hotter day. If you are getting the compressor starting OK then you have sufficient pressure in the system to overcome the cut off. Next check needs snap on connectors, hoses and gauges. On the inlet side at static (compressor not running) the pressure should be around 70psi. Again this is ambient variable but if its under 50psi then you are low on gas. Fire up the compressor, It should now be running around 14psi on the suction, LP inlet side. With the compressor running assuming the LP suction side pressure isn't low then the high pressure should be running around 200psi. Any lower and either the compressor is tired or the charge is low. The pressures will vary dependent on the ambient temperature but the figures quoted here will be in the right park for a correctly charged system. A Supra system holds 600g R134a so if its just a top off required then a small can would do it and you can buy these off eBay sellers. Best buy with uv dye in case you have a small leak that needs tracking down. You can buy all the snap ons and hoses plus gauges to from eBay sellers.

Quick trawl suggests a ECU reset might sort it. Only hard fix found was a failed (dry joint) 2.4kohm resistor on the back of the odometer.

Seeing there are a few things surfacing I'd have thought it'd be best sent back to JM rather than have a third party get involved. At least JM are familiar with these cars. Be a good idea to get them to fit their tailored leather seat covers at the same time to protect the front seats. Supras are unbelievably reliable so just get over the teething problems and all should become well.

I thought the rear quarter glasses were no longer available from Toyota, since about 9 months ago. I'd have to say the OE bonnet is a massive improvement.

Welcome to Supra World. Probably the home of one of the most reliable cars in the World. Your a/c issue sounds strange. If the compressor is kicking in you must have gas in the system as there is a low pressure cut off for the compressor clutch. It should be blowing mildly cooler air even on low refrigerant charge. Shame Jurgen didn't check it out as it could be a slow leak system and that could prove expensive to fix.

You need quite long bolts for the back to reach the plate. Think I went 30mm M6, check the thread size first though. I only remember it being M6.

For the rear you only need a couple of bolts, M6's I think they are. I used to just have the rears on double sided but that'd need changing every couple of years, since I've bolted the plate down its not going anywhere.

Be warned though, Amayama terms reserve the right to charge and then cancel an order or part of the order. This has happened to me when I was ordering bushes and padded the order out with things I wasn't really fussed over to spread the freight cost over a decent £ amount order. Amayama then shipped the padding and advised, with parts refund, the bushes were no longer available and there was no planned restocking. So ended up the parts I wasn't fussed about and ended up buying the missing parts from a USA supplier with high freight penalty. So you can get screwed over shopping with Amayama. With Amayama the time will come when you order an essential part and a new set of bolts to secure the part and you'll just get the set of, very expensive, bolts.

No MOT history available for this 1998 imported colour clash super low mileage car, I'd suspect the mileage is a good bit to super. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-supra-twin-turbo-manual-original-2JZ-/332254990221?hash=item4d5bf0cf8d:g:8QMAAOSwAPVZN9wB

Price just lowered on PH - now £14,250.

Some top TT6's and autos still around.