rider

A typical water pump can move a maximum of about 7,500 gallons (28,000 liters) of coolant per hour, or recirculate the coolant in the engine over 20 times per minute. This means that a water pump could be used to empty a typical private swimming pool in an hour! The slower the engine speed, the less power is consumed by the water pump. However, even at 35 mph (56 km/h), the typical water pump still moves about 2,000 gallons (7,500 liters) per hour or 0.5 gallon (2 liters) per second!

There is a figure offered up by someone, likely an American. "around 0.2 usgpm/bhp at max revs." For your setup that'd be more like 200l/min which equates to around 30cc per pump cycle which doesn't sound unreasonable.

Looked into obtaining replacement rear to front fuel pipes (2 of) and brake pipes (2 of) and only 1 of the 4 is listed as still available from Japan with 3 now discontinued. So these are going to have to be fabricated. If anyone knows the od and id of the fuel and brake lines let me know so I can get the correct tubing (non corroding) ordered up.n Also what coupling nuts and bolts are required. Unless anyone happens to have a set of excellent condition pipes in stock?

With your a/c I'd look to a lack of power or failure of your pressure sensor/switch 88645-20050. eBay USA has claimed compatible switches for $6 or £230 from Toyota.

Your clutch won't engage if the system is very low on refrigerant. It doesn't take a high pressure to overcome the low pressure cut off which disengages the clutch, usually around 5psi to 9psi on the suction side and a standing system should be 50psi-70psi. The LP cut off is designed to prevent the compressor from pulling a vacuum on the inlet side which will draw in air a moisture through the hoses. To check your gas level easily you need to couple a pressure gauge into the LP service port.

Most of these are now discontinued. Does anyone know the od and id of the fuel and brake lines as they now need to be fabricated. Update - Steve Manley at Toyota Oxford has managed, according to a call to me today, to source a complete set of the four main front to back fuel and brake pipes. This is likely to be one of the last complete sets so anyone looking to do this at some point in the future with OE parts has a short time to actually source the OE parts.

I read a USA site that gave 600g as the charge weight in a Supra. If its blowing cold you don't need to re-gas it. You need expensive equipment to properly gas a car ac as it has a vacuum pump, recovery cylinder, weight scales and gauges. So if it isn't broke recommendation is don't try to fix it.

That's a result, I top my Supra ac up every 6 years. There are barrier hoses that are porous to refrigerant so it is normal to have regular, but infrequent, top ups.

There are a few of the yellow mods hardly attending these days, soon it'll be anarchy. Seems the forum is en-route to its tumble weed finale but hopefully it'll stay open for the archive knowledge base if nothing else.

I can see my underneath read end tidy up is a probably going to be poor second cousin by comparison. I'm adding a few bushes but they are mostly covered as the sub frame I got of Mikes black facelift strip had new bushes on the arms and decent arms to. I've taken on board doing all the fuel lines when the sub frame is off especially as the ones in place are corroded where they enter the protector. When you replaced your lines, did you also replace all the brackets or were the originals reusable? Adding all the brackets, grommets, screws and new protectors will add over £200 to the cost of parts so its a question worth asking.

Just received my tank all scratched back to bare metal in parts. On all the parts I'm getting its a dry fine sand, two coats of primer and three layers of black acrylic paint. Plus it'll be up on a ramp once a year so the new parts shouldn't rust, the rest of the car might but not the expensive new parts.

Care is required with Windows 10 as some older software isn't compatible, even under compatibility settings. My accountancy software doesn't run on Windows 10 so it was a decision whether to stick with what I had (avoiding the then free upgrade) or buy new software. I stuck.

It is very quiet compared to a few years ago, maybe a couple of mods still happen by but that's about it. Lots of singles have died in bits and many people moved onto Datsuns. The only 'busy' section these days is parts so if the OP decides to break his car, then there will still be lots of interest. Maybe the mk4 is just to specialist today with not many doing many miles as most now seem to be parked up for posterity, something I admit to being guilty of but after 19 years of trouble free ownership it deserves a comfortable retirement. If the OP lived close to me, I'd be available to pop over to see if I could help out so hopefully all the good spirited Yorkshire owners will be in touch to offer their support and services.

The most expensive part of a dash cam, like any camera, is the lens. I went for an expensive GPS dash cam so you can actually read from the recordings the number plates of moving cars. Not many dash cams have lens focal clarity good enough to do that.

I wouldn't lose faith after two years. Give it a bit longer. There has to be someone near to you who could help out. There are so many things it could be beyond electrical. It sounds like it could as easily be a fuel problem. Hopefully someone can come over, maybe run a compression test and check out the timing and spark for you and also check the fuel pump pressure and get you rolling again.

Looks like its up for sale again. Only now at £31k. https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/toyota/supra/toyota-supra-rz-top-secret-650bhp/7359429#

I probably should get some roll bar bushes as well while I'm at it, I'm assuming jspec will be the 22mm bush, can anyone confirm that for me?

I'm planning a pretty major overhaul of back end underneath early next year and have most of the parts in place: Second hand TT sub frame with j spec hubs (also with ABS sensors) - I'll have the wheel bearings changed so I know they are going to see me out. New OE frame diff mount rubbers (I actually bought 2 sets in case I get around to buying a second Supe) New OE hand brake shoes and springs New OE tank guard and tank bands. New OE exhaust hanger (original appears to have been removed by the bespoke exhaust people) New OE heat shield (original appears to have been removed by the bespoke exhaust people) New exhaust (got a Nur R on order - arriving around October) I recon I'll spend about £3k on parts and labour when its all done. Is there anything I've missed that I should get the parts in for like bushes for top mount on diff or others or should I just check condition of everything when the current frame is removed? If anything is recycle quality after it gets swapped out I'll clean it up and put it in the for sale section. There is rust on the tank guard front but I wont know how bad that is till its off and tackled. A lot of the parts took 6 weeks to get hold of after paying for them! Not an issue seeing the work won't begin for another 10 months.

Saw that a few days back. Didn't bother posting it up in the sale section as its expensive for the mish-mash body styling on a 93 silver. Not sure where a white dash on a silver car works into peoples consciousness as a good idea. I really doubt the owner will see any potential buyers at that price or anywhere near that price even if the car wasn't backed by a fairly unfriendly advert. There is a much better £14250 TT6 on PH at the moment, if its still for sale.

Have you considered painting the FMIC black? The big shiny slab of silver distracts from the front end. black would look better and you'd go faster to.

If you have lots of error codes and no ac - it really needs to go back to JM to sort out and get them to leather the front seats for not doing the pdi properly.

FJ didn't make my Christmas Card list. LV are still one of the lower cost with a minimum mileage of 5000 a year on classic car insurance and they come near to top on satisfaction surveys. If the Supra is your second car you'd do worse than check out what LV are offering. Admiral were always cheapest for me on a first car, no claims tied to, Supra insurer.

I should probably add that if you do top off a system yourself you do need to ensure you don't grossly overcharge the amount of gas. So only do it with a hose and inline gauge, Charge into the low pressure line, suction side of the compressor. The correct way to charge a system is actually on weight not pressure as pressure does vary with ambient conditions. Charging to inlet pressure with the compressor running (12 - 14psi) is fine but not the handbook way which is charging by weight but charging to pressure reading is a whole lot better than putting a full service can of R134a into the system because you have paid for it.

Sounds more serious than the alternator with the Christmas tree lights. Check the battery voltage when running, if its just shy of 14V then the alternator is fine.

If you have a thermometer, preferably a probe, shove it into the air vent and set the flaps to the vents. A good ac result would be 7C on a normal day. Higher on a hotter day. If you are getting the compressor starting OK then you have sufficient pressure in the system to overcome the cut off. Next check needs snap on connectors, hoses and gauges. On the inlet side at static (compressor not running) the pressure should be around 70psi. Again this is ambient variable but if its under 50psi then you are low on gas. Fire up the compressor, It should now be running around 14psi on the suction, LP inlet side. With the compressor running assuming the LP suction side pressure isn't low then the high pressure should be running around 200psi. Any lower and either the compressor is tired or the charge is low. The pressures will vary dependent on the ambient temperature but the figures quoted here will be in the right park for a correctly charged system. A Supra system holds 600g R134a so if its just a top off required then a small can would do it and you can buy these off eBay sellers. Best buy with uv dye in case you have a small leak that needs tracking down. You can buy all the snap ons and hoses plus gauges to from eBay sellers.