rider

You can get black poly bushes that look similar to the OEM ones rather than garish red, purple or yellow ones. Just as well really, seeing OEM replacements are no longer available for all parts. https://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/Supra+Mk4+JZA80+(1993-2002)-433/1.html

Failing finding one Junsei do repro dash panels that Whifbitz retail for a deliciously high price.

Under themz forum rules you need to price them. Offers should be directed to an eBay auction listing.

You did say full speed at a direct 12V. So, if you know the switch is OK and you know the fuse is OK then you can bypass the variable speed resistor which has probably failed to give an full on or off option until you can replace the failed component.

That's like Supra inflation, they used to retail for around £55 incl postage.

I have one of those, although it is variable height on the washer you do need fair clearance even on the lowest (flat) setting. I used it on my old merc and it was amazing how much soil it cleared off in clumps from the underside so its quite powerful. The underside washer used to be offered as a free add on to the pressure washers when I bought my Karcher probably around 4 years ago now. I've only used it once as you need to set assemble it each time. I'm sure I'll use it again sometime, maybe within the next 5 years.

If you have one speed motor then this part on top of the radio stack might be your issue. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8865014272 Discontinued. So you may have to hard wire for a one speed blower until a scrapped car part crops up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjQ0PKDiRDw&ab_channel=RockAutoAutoParts

The recovered ones don't look the same. They tend to get thicker rims or use pattern leather. I refurbished the one I bought and though I say so myself, it looks pretty good. Easy enough to do if you have the spare time and a bit of patience. I did a refurb write up somewhere on the site.

There is a decent condition steering wheel just come up on eBay at what I regard is a pretty keen price of £350. New these with horn boss were £2k and the leather wheel is now discontinued. The steering wheel is a pretty large piece to anyone seeking the OE look that is currently running with a non-OE wheel making it worth every penny of the asking price. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195561600115

The side rubber looks completely different on my bar so you can probably just match up to what you have.

Thanks for the suggestions. The cooking option is probably a last resort and that temperature requires a high lead content solder to have a chance of being effective. Who knows what lead content solder Denso were using in the 90's? I've been trawling a few ECU repair videos and it is capacitors that are the usual failure point, followed by diodes. I can see I'm going to need to get up to some kind of speed on electronics to make sense of what does what. There is a video online of a repair on a LS400 ECU that dates from around the same time as Supra ECU's with many common components which is particularly useful as there were capacitors and an in series diode replaced to get the ECU functioning again. What I've learned so far is you cannot test a capacitor in circuit using a multi-meter so I've bought an ESR meter that can test capacitance in circuit, then referenced to the rating that is written on the side of the capacitor. Some bad things can go unseen with capacitors, legs can break below the capacitor due to slight acid leakage or the electrolyte dries out over time and that changes the components capacitance. An ESR meter will quickly (probably not so much in my hands) check the capacitance of a capacitor ruling it in or out as being OK or not. I'll leave peeling off the lower side cover until my ESR meter arrives. It's coming from China so that'll take a while.

I took the cover off from one of the ECU's today and it's a little disappointing. Everything looks factory fresh with no blown or leaking capacitors or any components that have visually suffered any heat damage. The board looks a minefield to work on with solder joints only 1mm wide. It'll take a pointed iron and steady hand to tackle a lot of the solder joints. With no leakage the only realistic hope for an 'easy' fix is a dry joint somewhere so I'll take off the underside cover and do some rudimentary resistance and continuity testing with a multi-meter. All the solder joints on the top side that are visible on the components all look shiny and in good condition.

I have two M/T trac ECU's that have a problem, one permanent on one intermittent but getting more permanent. So what to do, you can buy new old stock ECU's for well over a thousand pounds or they come up on trading sites (from wreckers and modders) for around the £400 now and again or I could have a look see under the hood? Or I could just leave it unplugged. I've decided to go delving probably for no reason other than it is something I've never attempted before so I've bought myself a few prying tools to use alongside my hot air gun (if I can find it) to get the glued casing apart. Then if I can see something clearly wrong with a failed component I, as a complete flux core ham, will attempt a repair. Basically, if I do manage a repair then probably anyone can facing the same problem that I encountered. So it should be fun or funny if nothing else. I'll post up pictures as I delve into the mysterious World of failed and failing ECU's so anyone who is remotely interested can witness the fun that I'll undoubtedly be having on and along the way. I'm in no particular hurry on this so it'll proceed and update as the urge grabs me. It did take me 5 years to de-tyre and refurb a set of OEM wheels so nothing can be taken for granted. But it only took me 2 years to refurb an OEM steering wheel. The trend tends to be once I do start then I tend to get stuck in.

Maybe someone with or with access to a 3D printer could replicate theirs for you?

I have this problem and plan, one day, to take the ECU covers off to see if there are any failed capacitors. Pending that day I have just disconnected the trac ECU which puts the light out. I have talked with tuners about having a new engine/trac ECU setup but they were all too busy to fit me in and the quotes started at £5k. Which makes disconnecting the cheap and no real issue option. PS - When I checked last year this ECU was still available as a 'new' part at £1,200 + freight + VAT + duty. But that is probably a 20 year old new ECU anyway.

1 year isn't really an investment term, it more a holding period with the property purchase being the actual investment. I'd go for a savings account (locked in for one year bonds attracting 4%) to ensure your money is still there in a years time. Anything else would be just a punt over a short time period, which may as well then go towards BTC. There is nothing else that you can reliably forecast today will yield more than 4%.

I've been buying majorly into gold and rear earth metal mining stocks and tobacco. Also been buying physical gold. Heading into a recession pundits always rate food, essential household products, phrama and utility stocks as the best insulated grouping to ride out a storm. All tech stock, that includes the likes of Tesla continue to take a beating. Other than that, 2 billet 2JZ blocks could work. Though who would risk running one of those up to 1000hp? If I was throwing £20k of my own money into an investment I'd go for a stock ISA if I didn't have one already; seeing its a £20k limit on that class of investment. Hargreaves Lansdown are the best online investment research portal I've used and I've used quite a few. You can fill your boots with funds, ISA's or equities there to your hearts content. But the Stock or Cash ISA is the most tax efficient means to invest that specific amount of money. Only bettered potentially by a private pension contribution where the government will add tax relief to the lump sum, it'd be locked up until you are 55 though and could be eligible for tax when drawn upon. It all comes down to what are the goals, short term, long term, growth, security etc. etc.

Word on the ground is stock up with non perishable foods. The WEF encouraged scourge of farmers in Canada, the Netherlands, Germany, Spain and Sri Lanka added to Billy Goats becoming the largest land owner in the USA on his insect food drive there is going to be lower grain yields and falling meat production/processing starting to 'feed' into the system next year. Already some shelves are looking very well spaced out in the Supermarkets here.

You have to smile, 75% of recent posts over a fair number of days have been nothing related in any way to cars let alone Mk4 Supra's.

I'd go 16Gb RAM out of preference, its cheap enough and usually makes a World of difference.

On a PC or laptop I wouldn't consider anything under 8Mb RAM, the Amazon one has half that so will probably really struggle on Windows 11. Unless you are running a server or an office from home there isn't really any point having more than one machine. If you have a local PC specialist store, not your PC World kind but an actual specialist then they would be able to build a system to your requirements on motherboard spec, processor spec, video card, RAM and disc size and even if they have historic things like CD drives. I always spend high on PC's or laptops so they are good for around 6 to 8 years and remain fast enough. Start slow and they only end up really slow. So the last PC I bought was 3 years ago and cost over £2k but its still lightening fast. Of course, after the PC purchase you then need to think about adding software and more and more these are going to monthly subscription and away from single or multiple licence products.

It might not have enough zero's on the display.

If you have an upgrade disc or downloaded an upgrade file it should do it all automatically. Just don't get a power cut part way through the upgrade which could take half an hour if you have, as you likely have, an older PC. You might find that some programmes no longer work after an upgrade in which instance there is a compatibility option under the programme command file to set the compatibility to an earlier operating system. That doesn't always work though. The will be plenty of Tube videos online to walk you through any problem solving pathways.