pf85

I hope it didn't catch fire as a result of the indicators

It is a really good idea and shouldnt be too hard to install by the look of it. Yes I'd also want the WI moreso as a safety feature rather than a way to gain more power. I'm going to try get one installed before getting the mapping done. Can it be manually turned off when fitted or is it always on and only engaged when boost is built? Also if the WI runs out is it safe to continue to drive at a lower boost level or is that more down to if the mapping was done with the WI level built in to the map parameters? I've already spotted a couple of second hand sumps for sale that match. Is there any way of checking which one is alteady fitted to mine first on the very off chance it has been changed?

I never thought about meth.. I've done some quick reading up on it and it sounds ideal for keeping temps down and helping with ignition timing! It would definately keep the engine running smoother by reducing knock. Im now interested to know if there are many people on here running it and what their experiences have been! I'm booked in to get my mapping done on 19th March so I have a little time now beforehand to work out my options. I also like the idea of fitting a larger auto box sump to hold more oil.. this is something I might also do but it might be done after the mapping if I don't find the right part in time. I'll definately be adding Lucas Oil Transmission Fix either way! Thanks for the really useful advice so far!!

To give some history or background into why I'm looking to change the injectors, I bought the car from another mkivsupra.net member back in 2013 with the following engine spec, all of which was carried out by a previous owner in Japan: HKS T04R single turbo Auto box (not sure of any modifications) but has extra oil coolers fitted AVCR boost controller Screamer pipe HKS 60mm GT wastegate HKS f-con vpro gold ECU K&N oversized air filter SARD bov SARD 540cc injectors SARD speed limiter cut G-Reddy 4 row intercooler Stock manifold Stock fuel pump Stock fuel rail At the highest setting it was running at 1.5 bar boost on 97 petrol but it ran into a problem where it melted one of the pistons. This also caused some oil to go back up through the turbo and render it useless as well So I left it with SSI and they carried out the following work: Full engine strip down and Bottom end rebuild ACL Race bearing set & Thrust washers Toyota oil pump & Seals Comp headgasket ARP head stud set Valve stem oil seals All new fluids JE Forged pistons, Rings & wrist pins Manley Forged Rods Gates blue Kevlar timing belt Removed fuel bypass damper New Garret Billet Turbo cart & gaskets AEM Fuel pressure regulator Walbro 455LPH Fuel pump Bypass fuel pump module Fuel injectors flow tested and cleaned So I've now run in the engine but I'm thinking it might be good to fit larger injectors to make sure there is enough overhead there. It seems like the autobox will be the biggest limiting factor when it comes to carrying out the mapping due to the limit of torque it can handle. I'm undecided what next steps I should take.. 1. Leave the current injectors and fuel rail in but get a full remap carried out from scratch 2. Fit ~850cc injectors, new fuel rail and a full remap 3. Fit ~1000cc injectors, new fuel rail and a full remap The mapper I'm going with are TDP.ie in Wicklow Ireland as they are they only approved HKS mapper in the country plus they have a very good reputation for mapping all sorts of cars. I've been chatting to them on the phone a few times and they seem to really know their stuff. I dont have any future plans to go beyond 500-600 RWHP mainly due to not wanting to have to change the gearbox but I want to ensure as much as possible that I dont run into issues again. The car is a road use car which only gets taken out in dry weather. A few of my mates are planning some trips out this year (New TT RS, RS5, Mountune 420 bhp Focus RS) all of which have newer tech, quicker gearboxes etc so I dont particularly fancy being left behind either..

Thanks I'll take a read through those pages there seems to be some really valuable information! I do have extra oil coolers fitted and the fluid has been changed very recently the car doesn't do many miles at all it is only taken out on dry days during the summer mostly. The ecu is a HKS F con gold pro. Apparently the 1050x can be tuned to run really well at idle and the mapper was confident with that combination but yes 850cc injectors would probably suffice. Do you have any recommendations? I'm not too well up on fuel rails, fitment etc but I'll be getting Marty/Colin from SSI to set it up

I'm not too hung up on the actual numbers just whatever the tuner thinks is a safe limit on the day. I am running the auto box so id imagine around 600whp would be on its limits

Ive just had the engine fully rebuilt with Manley rods etc etc.. it currently has 550cc SARD injectors and I'm going for a full remap aiming for around 600bhp so I need bigger injectors. I hear good reports about the IDs. I've a HKS Fcon gold pro and the tuner is happy enough to map with the IDs

I currently have a stock fuel rail and manifold with an AEM FPR. I am going to fit a new set of ID1050X injectors and a fuel rail. Has anyone went down this route before and if so what all is needed?

Do you have any pictures of yours fitted? - - - Updated - - - I only see front indicators listed, not the side markers?

Anyone? [ATTACH=CONFIG]230681[/ATTACH]

They look good but Im hoping to get a set paired with a rail if I can or else something drop in

Must be over 800cc, fresh and ideally flow tested.

I'm after a set of clear front side indicators or clear markers as they are called. It is the facelift version as shown in the link below https://goo.gl/images/K1vj79 This seller wants $99 to post them to the UK which I'm not prepared to pay PART NUMBER: 212-1413PTB-VC

Do you have any pics of the Clear side indicators?

Do you have any pics of the Clear side indicators?

Do you still have the Facelift Style front indicators for sale?

Just now spotted it driving through the city centre. Looked very dark grey/almost black couldn't get a good look at it but had a stock rear wing

There are running or driving lights I think they are called, on the car which have a yellow output(not sure if this is standard or someone has put yellow bulbs in to use in the fog), does anyone know can I just swap these over with my dipped bulbs to cover me tonight till I get a look at it tomorrow?

Sidelights - work ok Main beams - work ok Fog lights - work ok Dipped beams - drivers dipped light works ok but the passenger light only illuminates about 20% of what it should and it also causes the two main beams to illuminate about 10% I swapped the dipped bulbs around and did not make any difference but rules out any issue with the bulb. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere but I don't see anything obvious and there doesn't seem to be anything loose. Any ideas before I take it to a mechanic tomorrow??

Thanks for the replies Im steering towards keeping them the same colour as they are. Once they are polished it should really set the car off

I'm getting my alloys refurbed in the next couple of weeks so a full respray and dishes/lips polished, what colour should I get the spokes finished in? They are currently the same colour as the car which looks nice and is subtle but I have played with the idea of black or else gold..

I might be possibly selling mine this summer depending on circumstances