pf85

Ok I think I'm going to go towards the smaller side of things for now with the G30-900 until I have the gearbox installed and maybe new cams and see where things are at come then. Im torn between the 0.83AR (tuners recommendation), 1.01AR (recommendation from the dyno video above) or there is another option of a divided 1.06AR. Would the divided housing be enough to offset some of that lag or will it be worse?

Ok yes its hard to know without seeing some dynos but that might be a bit too much lag for what I'm after. I'll keep doing more research but it seems my options are super limited unless I get some fabrication work done or else change the manifold

Thanks for the help, I didn't bother looking at anything above the G30 as I thought there would be too much lag but having looked at that video above and the specs of the G40-900 it seems a perfect fit in the sense that it will work with a T4 divided and an external wastegate. I can't seem to find much info in terms of dyno charts on a 2JZ though - it would be nice to know how early the boost comes on at and what the curve would look like.

Going with a larger AR will definitely give some room for higher bhp at the top end but surely that would shift the useable power curve to the right and introduce lots lag? There doesn't seem to be many divided turbo housings these days are they not much advantage over open? Also does anyone run a quick spool valve or are they not reliable?

My current setup is running around 590bhp running a really old T4 turbo with an autobox but I am planning to go 6 speed next year. Before then I am replacing the turbo and want some recommendations from people with knowledge and experience. Current manifold: Tubular divided T4 60mm HKS GT external wastegate I am aiming for somewhere in the region 650-750+bhp once the new gearbox is installed running on 97 octane setup for the fastest spool within reason as it will be mostly street use with some rolling pulls. My tuner has recommended a Garrett G30-900 .83AR (V band) - this will require a change to the manifold and there is also a waiting period to get these turbos in too it seems however now that it's coming into Autumn/Winter I can put up with that as it will be going off the road. The other suggestion was a Xona Rotor but I dont know anything about this brand and dont know anyone else running one.

Is that an s1 or s2 surround?

PM it to me @Frank Bullitt and what you need done

I think you're right @black_widow87! VIBRANT 1091 Muffler with tip TPV Series Mirror Polished 4″ https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1166&osCsid=0da557b46950686b1cd600240d24b01a There are only a very limited couple of videos online of Supras with this exhaust but its one of the nicest sounding I've heard (at least on video). Would love to hear from someone else who has one

Yes it does look very similar to yours. If it's a catback though then that's not an option as I have a full system in place but would be tempted to upgrade or just change the back muffler to get more of a similar note to the video

It's hard to tell it kinda looks like HKS TI but seems a shorter end

Thanks, that sounds lovely and quiet!! There's surprisingly not many videos online of the new 700A conversations but I guess they aren't out long. I did see one guy on YouTube saying that the transmission fluid type did make a massive difference especially when not up to temperature

@Big Supes just checking in to see if you managed to take a video of out on a drive with the new box?

Thanks guys yes its very frustrating youd think I'd be easier to get the newer parts than old. Seems like picking up second hand is the likely route then which won't be easy

As the title says, what is the OEM part number for this plastic manual gear surround panel? It's the newer facelift grey colour rather than the dark black

Yes its going to be hard to find one but who knows someone might have one spare or in storage that they would sell

Awesome that would be great cheers mate!!

I'm after the later (series 2) facelift 6 speed manual gear surround - it's a lighter grey colour rather than the previous dark black plastic.

That's the thing the box has been sitting up since the refurbishment so there's no warranty on it which is putting me off buying it. As you say parts for them have massively dried up which is a risk. Any chance you could grab a video sometime of the rattle to give me a better idea? The t56 route is looking best looking at the longer term supportability

Thanks for the info that's really good to know! Hmm I was hoping there would be zero chatter from it if I'm honest as I'm very particular and that would annoy me but yes for being able to handle that level of power there's always a trade off of some sort. Theres a guy on here from Ireland selling a refurbished v160 for £6k (from memory I think..) it's hard to know if I should maybe just go down this route instead

@Big Supes have you got a run out yet with the new box installed? Interested to see if the bag of rocks noise is no longer a thing with the new upgraded housing and clutch. If you don't mind me asking what was the total including import fees as I'm thinking of going down that route myself?

Depending on the size of your house and the type of walls will determine what type of router or WiFi network you'll need. I've found on an average size 2 story house replacing the bt router with a really good TP link router for about £80-120 will cover the whole house nicely and give you extra features. Means just running one router, one signal and one power socket.

You could try factory resetting the router and see if that makes any change but otherwise you'd need to get BT to change the router for a new one

Do you use a VPN or something else which may be trying to control your network connection? Also have you a good uptodate antivirus such as Norton Security? When you tried connecting with a LAN cable, did you disable the WiFi connection? It's very odd that the LAN cabled connection would be dropping in the same way. To better troubleshoot I'd recommend the following: 1. Restart the Router 2. Restart the Computer 3. Open control panel and network > adaptors > right click and disable the wireless WiFi network adaptor 4. Open the settings for your LAN adaptor and check the ipv4 settings - make sure its set to DHCP for everything, proxy is disabled and LAN settings is set to Automatically detect settings 5. Plug in the LAN cable to the router directly Run the ping test again. If its still dropping then you could try resetting all network settings and try ping again. If its still dropping at this point then you should try see if there is a newer driver available to download for your LAN and WiFi devices (I doubt if this will make much difference but its good practice) Also is your Windows correctly activated? Id strongly recommend updating to Windows 10 - this alone might even solve your problem. If you like I could remotely connect into your computer and have a look? I use TeamViewer which is a free piece of software for remotely connecting to other computers - but this is your call as I'd obviously be able to control your computer during this session although you would be watching everything I do on screen.

Space required before -t

I have a HKS 60mm GT wastegate screemer pipe so it is quite loud on full boost but I'd like the ability or option of increasing the idle or cruising noise on demand from time to time.