Chris Wilson

You check with one cam at a time in the head, no valves or buckets and slowly tighten the caps rotating each cam and looking / feeling for contact. If no contact occurs with the cap bolts fully tightened you them measure clearance at the tightest points with feeler gauges. I wouldn't want less than fifteen thousandths of an inch absolute minimum. If contact or insufficient clearance occurs then clearance needs milling in the head casting. You need to be very careful or you will have a two or more piece cam to think of an ornamental use for.

Displaced shim?

Duration is irrelevant, lift is the critical factor in head to lobe clearance. I'd ring them and ask, but even so I would physically measure clearance on *YOUR* head casting.

Total junk, you'll have less issues having unprotected sex with a room full of hookers. Geez, just Google what goes wrong with these things. Whoever designed the transmission must have been still at school. Splied C/V joint shafts running un-lubricated inside the rear drive motor casings and they wonder why the motors croak due to a load of metal dust inside them....? I can complement their advertising department though, I know two people, both of whom I would call intelligent and savvy, who bought the things. Sadly both regretted it once the cars were spending more time being patched up than used. One came from a new Jaguar, I think some folk should just pay someone else to choose them a motor.

Looking for a few 50 pin SCSI drives, smaller capacity the better, must be known working! Thanks.

I want to see them ON THE CAR before machining anything, something very odd here. How much compression is on the rear springs when fitted woth the dampers off the car? They will need a bit of existing preload if we are going to move the lower seat lower. Are Eibach springs a common denominator by any chance?

If you still have the stock rear springs fit those and see how it sits?

DO NOT cut the bump stops. The car should never be on the bump stops except in extreme situations, like a hump backed bridge taken far too fast, if there's not at least 1.5 inches clearance static, it's too low. Once the damper tops hit the bump rubbers the spring rate goes insanely high with unpredictable effects on handling. I see plenty of mashed up bump rubbers, the cars invariably drive like dogs. Constantly running on the bump stops will put insane loads into the suspension components. As an aside there have been times when I have deliberately designed a suspension system to run permanently on specialised Koni race bump stops, they used to be available in many different lengths, shapes and durometer readings. The last time I did this was in a one make BMW championship series for a local guy. He is a very capable racer but was always finishing down the field. He said springs and dampers were supplied by the series and could not be changed. He was sure the front runners cars handled very differently to the also rans. I watched videos of the series and saw the also rans were rolling about in the corners, the front runners barely rolled at all. ARB's were also fixed spec. So what were they doing? I read the rule book analytically and worked out the fast guys must be running trick bump stops to increase spring rate via that means. Nothing was said about bmp rubbers. Yippee, got `em! He tried various trick rubbers and eventually won the championship. Was it cheating? No, no more so than a factory TVR racer that had a transaxle fitted. The scrutineers tried to fail it, but the rules just said that the original gearbox casing must be used in its original position. it was, but the internals were absent with the input shaft welded to the output shaft, taking drive from the crank straight through to the rear mounted transaxle. Another wheeze was the regs said a lightweight propshaft could be used. With transaxles the inertia in the prop makes rapid gear changes hard on the gearbox / transaxle, so it became the first UK race car to run a (hugely expensive back then) carbon fibre propshaft. Again the scrutes hated it but what could they do...? The thing wiped up for 18months with the hugely talented privateer Steve Cole at the wheel as the regulations were deemed to have to be kept the same for a minimum of that period. That's what race designers do first, read the regs and look for loopholes Even little things helped it. It had to run the original roof, a soft top. It flapped about creating drag, so they doped it with aeroplane wing cloth dope until it was a rigid as a steel hard top, but far lighter. The chief engineer for TVR at the time was a Kraut, Chris Schirle, ex F1, the guy was awesome, he taught me a lot about rule books and interpretation He'd probably be good for Boris in the Supreme Court right now Trick bump stops are kludges strictly for the race track though, where "proper" suspension more suited to the needs is banned by set rules.

Thicker little bit at the bottom, toward the lower end of the damper, but it won't affect the ride height.

It needs to be done on a two post ramp as the tramways on a 4 poster stop you being able to use a slide hammer...

You need to make a steel clamp on device to first straighten the length of the return seam, then using a slide hammer screwed into the "device" gently tug it back to shape. Never seen anything commercial, you'll need to get an engineering shop to build you something out of 3/4 inch steel plate. Basically the device clamps to the return edge with three fine threaded bolts clamping the two halves together, then a threaded hole for the slid hammer shaft is needed to allow the slide hammer to keep tugging the return down until it's back where it should be. Finish with body hammers and anvil. Sounds easy, takes forever and needs some practice on a scrap car! Serrated edges on the jaws help stop it being pulled off. Can be a simple thing or you can have the shop go to town on something trick...

People need to be careful with the aftermarket pistons, and I am not just saying this because I sell my stainless steel one... I see plenty that are just gold irridite coated, or a black phosphor finish. This lasts no time at all in an application like a brake caliper piston and I have seen them rust enough to partially seize the caliper within 18 months. If you don't go stainless they MUST be hard chrome plated to a good depth.

43 mm OD is the size of Jap spec rear pistons for the MKIV, just measured one and checked my notes too, cheers.

In fairness, it's empowering and tempting, but so are boob jobs for women When you get a grip of them reality returns though.

Cruel! Expected! Respected

Sorry, it will have to be achieved in my own good time, it's something else on the back boiler and not Supra specific. They are something I want to offer, but at the moment I want to keep it in house, no offence Thanks for the interest!

An excellent and balanced post, if a referendum on one of the most important topics in our recent history is to be wrangled by those that are incapable of losing due to whatever, it sets a frightening precedent for any future vote that may take place in the UK. If a vote for the Liberal Democrats wins, or the Labour Party wins at the next general election, should I feel enabled to strike up about the ignorance of the voters, and demand a second vote probably biased towards my desires, or that the vote was biased because they were duped by other powers into making a voting decision beyond their capacity? What criterion should a democratic vote be judged by? Education? Age? Their educational establishments? Pitiful, if we had voted to remain who on the exit side would have felt so triggered to have gone through such hoops to attempt to circumnavigate the result? I HONESTLY believe we have a millennial voting sector who have been "educated" to not accept losing as an option should it go against their desires. We are on the cusp of making a democratic vote subject to later scrutiny based on the subjective opinion of the losers about the capacity of the participants. Quite frightening given the bias for some to promote minority aggrandisement.

Now young Peter, whilst you are doing your research check out affect and effect, or if in doubt try the simpler ruled "impact"....

It could be a TRD I think some of the last ones did have the option of changing ramp angles, I would need to access a backup and look at some photos, not fitted one for years. If it is a TRD it should work well, although they have minimal preload so as to be quiet and civilised for the average user. Giken use some trickery to run plenty of preload yet remain quiet and snatch free, albeit you need to use their very costly diff oil to ensure this longterm. The good thing about Giken apart from they are damned good is YOU CAN BUY SPARES! How cool is that these days?

Car batteries, especially modern ones with as little lead in them as the manufacturers can get away with, do not like being totally, or near totally discharged, the plates sulphate like hell. They are not deep discharge batteries which are specialist things. I see new batteries dead within weeks if allowed to completely discharge and then jump started and have 60 Amps rammed into them. They need to be kept topped up, which is not always easy if you don't use the car regularly. They also don't like frost for whatever reason, so if the car is in storage best to take the battery out and put it on a "clever" trickle charger. I had a few customers buy solar panels for this, and tested one. It struggled to give 1.5 Amps on a bright July day, with the panel orientated for best solar capture. in other words it was a bit of a joke! Good batteries ain't cheap, they need a bit of mollycoddling. They also fetch bugger all weighed in so best to look after them.

Err, quite, quite, this man knows....

Just join the pipes and bin it, the pump's probably seized up as well as the temp rarely gets high enough to run the pump.... I could get copies made but the cost will frighten all but the bravest.

I'll try and remember to measure one, I should know but now make a lot for other cars and don't want to give you bum info. I will have plenty of rusty ones if you want one to compare? I also have at least one new stainless one on the shelf...