Chris Wilson

Do they do a short coated BMD ?

If I had a small child (we don't, but *IF*) I wouldn't have a large breed dog at all. I think the ones you cite couldn't be more unsuited, sounds like you have a death wish on him Dogue de Bordeaux are interbred over here, with dodgy character and health. American Bulldogs are basically a fighting dog, domesticated a bit. Old English Bulldog is maybe the best of the three if you can stand a dog so horrendously genetically deformed as to be a (just) walking holiday fund for the local vet ? Short coat and a need to be outdoors all day in the winter don't bode too well. I would say a miniature schnauzer or a miniature bull terrier, or a miniature pinscher, miniature poodle or beagle would be worth considering, but I wouldn't know how they'd fair outside in very low temps. Our Russian Terriers and Anatolians saw minus 15 here for several mights, outside all day and night with day temps never getting above well below zero, last winter, in very basic kennelling, with no heat at all, but that's what they are bred for. The miniature schnauzer and miniature will need trimming to keep them short, but the poodle hardly moults at all, and the schnauzer a minimal amount. I would avoid terriers if left unsupervised, and most hounds, especially sight hounds.

£2.5 K is for something like a Secan or Marston motorsport core, possibly more for a Secan, they are considered the best of the best. If you are serious about big power £2.5 K is not THAT dear for low intake air temps and greater efficiency from V bar of boost. People happily spend more than that on a set of wheels that weigh a ton and don't fit properly, and post photos of their poor purchase with pride You would find it hard to re-core a cheap I/C with thin fabricated tanks. These Ebay I/C's are so cheap 9and usually so rubbish...) that just buying a new one once they get ratty is cheapest by far. Only worth re-coring if you want something bespoke. I am getting a cast end tanked Skyline I/C re-cored with a bar and plate core, to a custom width, things like that make financial sense, as at least you don't have to pay for new end tanks to be fabricated, and this one has tanks with good flow design. I picked this up for £60, it would cost a LOT more to make end tanks to a similar pattern:

Stock side mounts have plastic end tanks and a bespoke core thickness, which no one offers a replacement for. Re coring a cast alloy tanked I/C is possible, but very costly. There's a lot of working cutting out the old care, cleaning a prepping the tanks, and prepping a new core to fit, then welding and pressure testing. Given that UK craftsmen won't work for a bowl of rice nowadays this puts the cost of a re core well above a Taiwanese made new I/C. The only strong reason to re-core is if you have an I/C with particularly nice cast end tanks and a ratty or lousy core. Then you can re core with a proper race spec core. Expect to pay well over £2.5K for something really good though.

No, the master cylinder should be firmly bolted to the bulkhead.You MUST have free play in the master cylinder pushrod, so if you decide to adjust the pushrod as Matt above rightly suggests is possible, DO NOT adjust it longer to the point where there's no free play at all. Doing that results in the release bearing being in permanent contact with the clutch fingers, and it will be doing engine RPM all the time and will fail quite quickly. About 3mm play is the absolute minimum you need

Area under the graph is King on a road car. Great curves you have their, Ryan, if only you were female Wez, stop winding him up over drift car engines, you're a very naughty boy

Thanks, if it's a pain to start it usually means rotor tip damage, I'm out, but appreciate the post.

It may be because the thermostat is not CLOSING properly to allow a rapid warm up, then it should cycle between open / shut to maintain design running temp. If it didn't open the coolant would boil. The stat is under the cover that forms part of the stub the bottom rad hose goes to on the engine. It's a bit of a pain to remove.

The engine maybe not getting hot enough to come fully out of the warm up part of the maps. Have you tried a brand new, genuine thermostat? If it is running cool it will give lousy MPG and may well fast idle at times.

It is, yes, quite normal.

It's very effective. It draws the eye away from the front end colour mismatches I'll get my coat.....

Nice exhaust, keeps the weight within the wheelbase and very low. But, err, cough, cough. Fuel pipes? Heat? LH silencer?

I can't understand why so few Supra owners just don't sign up for a general track day run by the likes of Bookatrack, Javelin, or one of the circuit owners themselves. I always hope to see at least one, last year I saw zero... I am Oulton tomorrow with the GTS-t, run by Easy Track. They don't list attendees, (probably because they have booked about 200 cars..... ), so can't tell if an Supras are doing that one. If anyone wanted to do an Oulton day with A. T Day-Organiser, and was a bit nervous I'd come and give them a hand if I had some warning. Trying to get enough to sign for, pay and actually attend a dedicated Supra only day must be a nightmare. Llandow is a bit of fun, but it's really a kary circuit, taking a fast lorry round like a Supra or Skyline is like trying to fly a fighter jet around the bedroom. Donington or Oulton lets you wind the thing up a bit

Never a good sign..... It would be vital he fixed that for me, even if the mapping was less than 100%

I would offer that I either fix it or don't charge you. It will be something fairly basic, I am sure. All this "bleeding talk" is nonsense , it will self bleed if just left iling with the cap off, it has no need of anything special.

Nothing to so with the water cooling at all Adam.

Yes, a good upgrade. Single wheel bumps (one wheel dropping into a pothole) will appear harsher, but it won't make the ride terrible. Less roll and better tyre wear on track!

Thicker, with harder rubbers for the mounts. Good quality, ideal for a road / track day car.

Looking good David, glad you went for a double shear bearing for the PAS pump, they are a bit delicate even when run as intended If you were to "productionise" this would it not be easier to have a dedicated crank pulley for the SC and a dedicated belt, forward of the auxiliary belt? The SC would have to be further forward of course.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/153162-kaaz-2way-lsd.html Now 98% sure it's a Kaaz, free bump

Considered? It *IS* I saw PON1S on a beautiful new looking 18 tonne rigid horse box last week, which was nice, as was the driver I used to rent Transits of a bloke called Jim in Sale, Cheshire. he had amongst the rental fleet: NOJ1M GOJ1M SOJ1M TOJ1M HOJ1M KOJ1M Probably a nice little retirement bonus if he sold them.

Just been mousing through it, there really are some desperate folk out there.... http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=814906&mid=21830&i=0&nmt=Spotted!+Real+Rubbish+Chav+Number+Plates&mid=21830

Sorry to hear this, at least you are both OK. It wasn't a Teddy Pendergrass type accident, was it?

3, 4 and 5.1 are inter mixable and won't so any harm to anything DOT5 however is a silicone fluid and will not mix with other fluids, it goes to jelly. Quite who gave two totally unmixable and different fluids, as important and oft used as BRAKE fluid, a difference in name of .1 I hate to think. Crazy.

Exedy don't make the stock clutch, do they? I meant stock as in bought from Toyota. There's no easy check, either renew the cylinders or fit seal kits if the bores are PERFECT.