Chris Wilson

No, he was CONFUSSED, see post #1 Bad luck with the car, hope it fixes up soon. Even worse luck for yourself, sustaining such injuries and the car receiving relatively minor damage

It's the RPM at which peak torque is made, not a good engine choice for a very heavy car. A mid size diesel would be better. I am toying what small and economical engine would slot easily into a mint FD I have with a blown engine. I like the look of the FD, but can't do with rotary engine unreliability. I would like to make a pretty, but slow and economical car out of it, when I get time. If it was an auto it would be even nicer, to me.

If you get high pressure blast media on the chromed shafts they are scrap, assuming you are using something like glass or silica beads. If they are adjustable and it gets in the adjuster screw it may cause trouble. If it gets behind the shaft seal they are scrap. By the time you have messed about with rusty old units it won't be that dearer buying some new Bilsteins They can't be powder coated whilst assembled, the bushes and seals won't like it at all, and more sensationally, they could explode.

Adjust the pushrod so at the pedal pad you have about 5 to 10 mm free movement before it stiffens (when the bearing starts pushing (or pulling on pull type clutches) on the clutch cover fingers. What DOT fluid you use won't matter, there's no real heat involved in the system, unlike brakes. You said the master cylinder was loose, has tightening that back up not helped?

The fact it's tight is very good news indeed, if it were loose, or worse, loose in a worn key way, it would show the damper had been run un-torqued. Tap one end of the key down and the other should rise up. Then pull it right out with small grips. I can't remember, but I thought the seal would pass over an installed Woodruff key? If it will I'd suggest you leave it in place, and in peace.

JAPAN, I like that and will try and commit it to my stuttering memory I am lucky here, any sign of trouble I just send the wife out armed with some of her cooking.

For best power water wants to be about 85 C. Drop the water temp and the oil temp should drop in unison, due to the stock oil to water heat exchanger.

Thanks Steve arrived 7.15 AM today. The poor courier had 85 drops to do today, and he was no Spring chicken.

And if you can measure the ID of a guide to those tolerances and check for ovality and taper, you have some impressive tools

Go braided with proper AN fittings. Do you NEED more oil cooling though?

I would do it properly with some bigger injectotr (not TOO big, say 650 cc and raise the fuel pressure a bit, that should fix it after a remap. Well done and good luck Craig.

Do they do a short coated BMD ?

If I had a small child (we don't, but *IF*) I wouldn't have a large breed dog at all. I think the ones you cite couldn't be more unsuited, sounds like you have a death wish on him Dogue de Bordeaux are interbred over here, with dodgy character and health. American Bulldogs are basically a fighting dog, domesticated a bit. Old English Bulldog is maybe the best of the three if you can stand a dog so horrendously genetically deformed as to be a (just) walking holiday fund for the local vet ? Short coat and a need to be outdoors all day in the winter don't bode too well. I would say a miniature schnauzer or a miniature bull terrier, or a miniature pinscher, miniature poodle or beagle would be worth considering, but I wouldn't know how they'd fair outside in very low temps. Our Russian Terriers and Anatolians saw minus 15 here for several mights, outside all day and night with day temps never getting above well below zero, last winter, in very basic kennelling, with no heat at all, but that's what they are bred for. The miniature schnauzer and miniature will need trimming to keep them short, but the poodle hardly moults at all, and the schnauzer a minimal amount. I would avoid terriers if left unsupervised, and most hounds, especially sight hounds.

£2.5 K is for something like a Secan or Marston motorsport core, possibly more for a Secan, they are considered the best of the best. If you are serious about big power £2.5 K is not THAT dear for low intake air temps and greater efficiency from V bar of boost. People happily spend more than that on a set of wheels that weigh a ton and don't fit properly, and post photos of their poor purchase with pride You would find it hard to re-core a cheap I/C with thin fabricated tanks. These Ebay I/C's are so cheap 9and usually so rubbish...) that just buying a new one once they get ratty is cheapest by far. Only worth re-coring if you want something bespoke. I am getting a cast end tanked Skyline I/C re-cored with a bar and plate core, to a custom width, things like that make financial sense, as at least you don't have to pay for new end tanks to be fabricated, and this one has tanks with good flow design. I picked this up for £60, it would cost a LOT more to make end tanks to a similar pattern:

Stock side mounts have plastic end tanks and a bespoke core thickness, which no one offers a replacement for. Re coring a cast alloy tanked I/C is possible, but very costly. There's a lot of working cutting out the old care, cleaning a prepping the tanks, and prepping a new core to fit, then welding and pressure testing. Given that UK craftsmen won't work for a bowl of rice nowadays this puts the cost of a re core well above a Taiwanese made new I/C. The only strong reason to re-core is if you have an I/C with particularly nice cast end tanks and a ratty or lousy core. Then you can re core with a proper race spec core. Expect to pay well over £2.5K for something really good though.

No, the master cylinder should be firmly bolted to the bulkhead.You MUST have free play in the master cylinder pushrod, so if you decide to adjust the pushrod as Matt above rightly suggests is possible, DO NOT adjust it longer to the point where there's no free play at all. Doing that results in the release bearing being in permanent contact with the clutch fingers, and it will be doing engine RPM all the time and will fail quite quickly. About 3mm play is the absolute minimum you need

Area under the graph is King on a road car. Great curves you have their, Ryan, if only you were female Wez, stop winding him up over drift car engines, you're a very naughty boy

Thanks, if it's a pain to start it usually means rotor tip damage, I'm out, but appreciate the post.

It may be because the thermostat is not CLOSING properly to allow a rapid warm up, then it should cycle between open / shut to maintain design running temp. If it didn't open the coolant would boil. The stat is under the cover that forms part of the stub the bottom rad hose goes to on the engine. It's a bit of a pain to remove.

The engine maybe not getting hot enough to come fully out of the warm up part of the maps. Have you tried a brand new, genuine thermostat? If it is running cool it will give lousy MPG and may well fast idle at times.

It is, yes, quite normal.

It's very effective. It draws the eye away from the front end colour mismatches I'll get my coat.....

Nice exhaust, keeps the weight within the wheelbase and very low. But, err, cough, cough. Fuel pipes? Heat? LH silencer?

I can't understand why so few Supra owners just don't sign up for a general track day run by the likes of Bookatrack, Javelin, or one of the circuit owners themselves. I always hope to see at least one, last year I saw zero... I am Oulton tomorrow with the GTS-t, run by Easy Track. They don't list attendees, (probably because they have booked about 200 cars..... ), so can't tell if an Supras are doing that one. If anyone wanted to do an Oulton day with A. T Day-Organiser, and was a bit nervous I'd come and give them a hand if I had some warning. Trying to get enough to sign for, pay and actually attend a dedicated Supra only day must be a nightmare. Llandow is a bit of fun, but it's really a kary circuit, taking a fast lorry round like a Supra or Skyline is like trying to fly a fighter jet around the bedroom. Donington or Oulton lets you wind the thing up a bit

Never a good sign..... It would be vital he fixed that for me, even if the mapping was less than 100%