Chris Wilson

I have spoken to Simon on the phone and given him some local recovery firm numbers, but he has wangled an AA recovery now on a relative's policy Bloody alarms, how I hate the things.

The engine would need to run for many minutes without coolant, to get hot enough to warp the head. It would be sizzly, crackly hot and smelly. I doubt vry much if the coolant dump followed by immediate turn off could do any harm at all, save make a mess.

Thanks Dan!

Hmmm, hope it's made out of decent material, Toyota use ceramic for the flap of the exhaust diverter valve in the stock sequential set up, and the thing is mega expensive. I wouldn't want some piece of recycled bicycle sat in sheet form just in front of my turbine section Thanks for the explanation, where could I see a photo of one of these?

What sort of power should it make at what RPM and boost levels, Jurgen? Good luck with it!

What's a QSV? I think I would rather section the suspension turret slightly rather than run solid mounts. If you solid mount the engine you will need to solid mount the gearbox tailshaft housing, too, it'll be hellish noisy.

Coming soon to an industrial estate near you, we have Henry Fortesque-Smythe in his Aero 8. He is wearing flannels from Gieves and Hawkes and his shoes are from Church's. Educated at Eaton, and then Corpus Christi, he is performing a version of Swan Lake, on tarmac. Show your appreciation by giving petrol coupons or pheasants to his man on the gate.

Good man, not seen one of your enjoyable posts for a while, everything tickety boo?

You on strike again?

Oooh, yes please, sounds interesting!

There were a load at Oulton on Tuesday when I did a track day there. All the garages were pre booked when I got there, not living far away I usually get there early and grab a none pre booked one. Some sneering yob asked what I was looking for, and I told him an unbooked garage. He said the TVR Club were there in force and had booked a lot of the garages weeks ago. I couldn't resist telling him I didn't mind them going to the TVR Club, they were a needy cause if anyone was.... I did enjoy lapping him in 4 laps, too By the afternoon adjustable spanners, tank tape, multi meters, exhaust "crutches" and much head scratching activity was to be seen in many of their garages. Saying a TVR is a good replacement for a Supra is like saying a does of clap is a good replacement for a mild headache.

Why do we never get callers like that? The best we ever get is the odd Jehova's Witness troupe. Even they don't come any more I need a bit of fun....

I hate these offensive plates, quite right too. Prude from a Shropshire hamlet.

No, he was CONFUSSED, see post #1 Bad luck with the car, hope it fixes up soon. Even worse luck for yourself, sustaining such injuries and the car receiving relatively minor damage

It's the RPM at which peak torque is made, not a good engine choice for a very heavy car. A mid size diesel would be better. I am toying what small and economical engine would slot easily into a mint FD I have with a blown engine. I like the look of the FD, but can't do with rotary engine unreliability. I would like to make a pretty, but slow and economical car out of it, when I get time. If it was an auto it would be even nicer, to me.

If you get high pressure blast media on the chromed shafts they are scrap, assuming you are using something like glass or silica beads. If they are adjustable and it gets in the adjuster screw it may cause trouble. If it gets behind the shaft seal they are scrap. By the time you have messed about with rusty old units it won't be that dearer buying some new Bilsteins They can't be powder coated whilst assembled, the bushes and seals won't like it at all, and more sensationally, they could explode.

Adjust the pushrod so at the pedal pad you have about 5 to 10 mm free movement before it stiffens (when the bearing starts pushing (or pulling on pull type clutches) on the clutch cover fingers. What DOT fluid you use won't matter, there's no real heat involved in the system, unlike brakes. You said the master cylinder was loose, has tightening that back up not helped?

The fact it's tight is very good news indeed, if it were loose, or worse, loose in a worn key way, it would show the damper had been run un-torqued. Tap one end of the key down and the other should rise up. Then pull it right out with small grips. I can't remember, but I thought the seal would pass over an installed Woodruff key? If it will I'd suggest you leave it in place, and in peace.

JAPAN, I like that and will try and commit it to my stuttering memory I am lucky here, any sign of trouble I just send the wife out armed with some of her cooking.

For best power water wants to be about 85 C. Drop the water temp and the oil temp should drop in unison, due to the stock oil to water heat exchanger.

Thanks Steve arrived 7.15 AM today. The poor courier had 85 drops to do today, and he was no Spring chicken.

And if you can measure the ID of a guide to those tolerances and check for ovality and taper, you have some impressive tools

Go braided with proper AN fittings. Do you NEED more oil cooling though?

I would do it properly with some bigger injectotr (not TOO big, say 650 cc and raise the fuel pressure a bit, that should fix it after a remap. Well done and good luck Craig.