Chris Wilson

They come with their own special molybdenum grease and instructions for installation and torque settings. I always torque rod bolts to a stretch figure, rather than a torque figure, but you can't do that with studs in blind holes, of course.

A few people seem to think the Dyno-Mite is a serious competitor for the Rota Test, but I like the way the Swedes use the dyno to power the fans, very clever way to absorb some of the power. http://www.land-and-sea.com/axle-hub_dyno/axle-hub-dyno.htm Well done John and the team, don't get carried away though. That's already a massive amount of power NOS frightens me.

If it's sheared the ball joint it may well have bent the hub (upright). Even if it hasn't that sort of a blow to a casting / forging is enough to crack it I wouldn't want to knowingly drive it without fitting a new of good used upright. Toe and camber are interelated on the MKIV adjustment system. Change one and the other also changes a bit. The proper shop manual has the figures as to their inter relationship.

They don't fit them for no good reason Good luck Adam.

Possibly cam seals, possibly cam covers need re torquing, possibly something else entirely. Needs a good steam clean with plenty of chemical detergent in the stream.

How do you describe the taste of something?? Just dip you finger in the brake fluid reservoir and see for yourself. i wouldn't get a liking for it though

Mechanical pressure gauges are, in general, far more reliable than electronic ones with cheap senders. On a race car an oil pressure sender for a digital dash would be mounted away from the heat and vibration of the engine, on a piece of braided stainless -3 hose. It's probably the sender or wiring playing in your case. All the critical pressure gauges on my car are mechanical (boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure). Unless you buy very expensive Aerospace type pressure transducers (senders) that come from the likes of Honeywell, they give trouble, especially bolted direct to the engine. far cheaper to buy quality mechanical pressure gauges.

The four wheel drive Skyline's (GTR) are heavier and of course have 400 cc less engine capacity. The proper way to assess whether two cars will have similar performance is to work out their BHP per tonne figures, and fudge in a bit for torque curve differences. A two wheel drive Skyline GTS-t will need less power to outperform a MKIV Supra as it's quite a lot lighter. A GTR will need more power due to transmission losses, and it's probably heavier in R34 format. The R32 was the lightest, they got heavier from there on. The R34 is positively porky.

Rub your finger in it and taste it, brake fluid has a very distinctive taste. Be lucky it's not next door's cat though....

If you take the pads out and carefully press the brake pedal to extend the piston by say 15 mm, you should be able to push it back with your thumbs without too much effort. With two pistons, or four, you may need to have a helper to use a lever to stop the freer pitons coming out before the stickier ones. Even on new calipers one piston will nearly always come out in advance of another. Once you have done a few calipers it's easy to see when a piston is actually seized rather than just a bit slower to extend than a pairing. If you intend refurbing a caliper USE THE HYDRAULICS OF THE CAR'S BRAKES to extend all pistons as far as you dare without them coming out of the seals. The hydraulics are VERY powerful and it is far easier to extend seized pistons like that, ready for full extraction, rather than trying to pull them out on the bench. HTH.

It's a LH (passenger side on UK cars) one.

I have two, both used, but in excellent condition. I won't guarantee a used pulley, but at £65 each plus £5.80 insured P&P they are a lot cheaper than a new one.

Is it a two or four stroke?

It doesn't have a third world flag sprayed on it though....

They sound very cheap, considering a stock MAP sensor from Toyota is over £300. I would say you definitely do need to replace it. Do you need the FCON though? I don't know the spec of your engine, would a stock ecu run it?

F1 only do a single round in the UK and Silverstone have a noisy day allocation for racing, but not track or test days. BTCC is silenced.

They don't, most race series now run to the same noise limits as cars on track days. Blame the government, the EU `uman rights act, and circuit owners for not fighting noise restrictions by pooling resources and having a proper court case. Most objectors to noise from race circuits are "incomers" who chose to buy properties bordering circuits at their perceived market value, then decided to object about noise levels, possibly with compensation in mind... You can't beat them (at least not until we get a dictator in here to sort the stinking mess the country is in), so if you love driving cars fast, and value your licence, it's best to keep the blood pressure low with a decent exhaust and intake system

Most of the time yes, but they have the occasional noisy day with no limits at all. They are fairly dear though, from £295 to £445 depending on the organiser. Apart from there you don't have much choice other than running something pretty quiet, exhaust wise, with a proper wastegate set up.

He abused it This drifting lark is to cars what rape is to women.

Castrol / Girling Red Rubber Grease. You can buy it off Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CASTROL-GIRLING-RED-RUBBER-GREASE-BRAKE-GREASE-BEST-/400085380144?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5d26f26c30

Whatever Nissan recommend for basically the same box in R34GTR Skylines, or BMW suggest for some of their cars with a similar 6 speed Getrag. If I had another Supra and it was a manual I would run Neo gear oil in it if it was driven on track, or Motul Gear 300 if it was mainly just a road car. Neither are recommended by Getrag or Toyota, and others should use them at their own risk, but I would be 100% happy with either of these in my own Getrag V16* box.

These Welshmen seem to get a bit uppity over things, don't they

http://www.trackdaylist.com/ Plug in Car, Donington (or wherever) and Track Day and it lists all upcoming events save some run by the circuits themselves. There's nothing scary about a track day, 95% of them are very well run and there will be plenty of other first timers. An N/A auto will be perfect, no worries there. It's NOT a race day, overtaking is by consent only, on the left only, and usually on the straights only. You are actively encouraged to go no faster than you fell comfortable with, and there are nearly always instructors available to sit in with you and give advice. Donington is a pretty safe circuit for beginners.

Donington or Rockingham would be fine with me. I think Rockingham are fairly relaxed on noise, but certainly screamer pipes and Nur Spec R's on singles have not a prayer.

I can understand your concern, but I haven't touched a drop today. It may be the effects of an excess last night though.... I'll reattempt it: It's not got that red Toyota coolant in it, has it? The chemical that cause the colour change when the coolant becomes acidic can cause a combustion gasses in the coolant test to give false positives. The chemical itself can cause an indication that gasses are present when they are not, if it gets drawn into the tester syringe with the test fluid. Now, talking of drink, what time is it? Oooh, three minutes to opening time :)