Chris Wilson

I can't remember who was looking for a trailer, but this would be perfect. If I could bear the hassle I would buy it myself and sell my none tilt bed one. Excellent make with full spares bck up, and the price is very good, too. Nothing to do with me, just saw it and thought it may help a member. http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/37780/brian_james_flat_bed_tilt_trailer_tt30_tb.html

Resistance of water temp sensor at varying temps below: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?238522-2JZ-sensor-resistance Post #2 I have MAP sensor figures but not to hand.

Actually, thinking back, I had a single turbo 2JZ in last year with tapping from the cam followers. Slight wear, quiet when cold, tappety when hot. The bucket bores were a few tenths o/size, not worth worrying about. Oil viscosity would change the noise or get rid of it until wear got worse. Head was stripped and everything checked out fine, otherwise.

If the MAP sensor is outputting the wrong voltage for the pressure / vac applied, or the pressure / vac signal source has a leak, it could well over fuel, yet still give pretty normal boost and good power. Also if the t/stat is opening too soon a low engine temp will have it running on a rich part of the map. Again, pretty normal boost and power, but bad economy. The only way to see is to measure resistance of the ecu water temp sensor and voltage from the MAP sensor.

OK, I'll shut up then, you seem to have the job sussed

Nissan runs the O2 sensors right by the outlets of the two turbos and I have run Bosch LSU and NTK sensors in the same location for many hours of track usage with no issues at all. They light up faster and maybe even respond a bit faster up there. Should be no issue at all in the first de cat pipe. The two small adaptors in the turbo manifolds themselves are for Inconel EGT probes, pre the turbos.

They are superb, fully mappable if one of the pre loaded templates doesn't suit. Quite the best ABS set up I have ever come across. At a price though, circa £5K but with excellent re sale residuals. Pair this with decent traction control algorithms and you should get an awesome track package. Bosch do a 4 channel data splitter to allow one set of wheel speed sensors to be used by the M4 and by another (traction control?) device.

Check the free play of the tappet buckets in their guides, and take all the valves out and check for spring damage or bad valve or guide wear. Check all cam lobes minutely for wear or damage. Check the cam caps for wear or misplacement.

Giving serious consideration to fitting one of these, having had a drive of a car with a well set up system on it. Anyone had any dealings with them, or interested in one? (They aren't cheap....). http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/language2/html/3720.htm

Measure the output voltage from the MAP sensor at idle and at cruise and post the results. Check the MAP sensor hose and anything that has been T'd off it have no splits or leaks. Has it got a new thermostat in it? If it runs too cool it will use a lot more fuel. You need a good garage to check all the sensor outputs.

Has it got stock cams and springs? A loose spark plug will make a noise like that. As I said on the phone, so will a cracked or blowing exhaust manifold. Could even be piston noise.

Just tow it out with another car? The pads will have rusted slightly to the discs, a good jolt on a tow rope will free them.

Measure the fuel pressure you have, the stock FPR is very very reliable and good, never seen an issue with one in years. The only aftermarket ones I will even think of using are Bosch Motorsport ones. You will need to adapt the pipework to use one though, and you certainly don't need one. Any decent garage should be able to check the fuel pressure.

It should point downwards by about 30 degrees or so, that way condensation can't run into, and sit in the sensor. Check for clearance before drilling and welding!

They come with their own special molybdenum grease and instructions for installation and torque settings. I always torque rod bolts to a stretch figure, rather than a torque figure, but you can't do that with studs in blind holes, of course.

A few people seem to think the Dyno-Mite is a serious competitor for the Rota Test, but I like the way the Swedes use the dyno to power the fans, very clever way to absorb some of the power. http://www.land-and-sea.com/axle-hub_dyno/axle-hub-dyno.htm Well done John and the team, don't get carried away though. That's already a massive amount of power NOS frightens me.

If it's sheared the ball joint it may well have bent the hub (upright). Even if it hasn't that sort of a blow to a casting / forging is enough to crack it I wouldn't want to knowingly drive it without fitting a new of good used upright. Toe and camber are interelated on the MKIV adjustment system. Change one and the other also changes a bit. The proper shop manual has the figures as to their inter relationship.

They don't fit them for no good reason Good luck Adam.

Possibly cam seals, possibly cam covers need re torquing, possibly something else entirely. Needs a good steam clean with plenty of chemical detergent in the stream.

How do you describe the taste of something?? Just dip you finger in the brake fluid reservoir and see for yourself. i wouldn't get a liking for it though

Mechanical pressure gauges are, in general, far more reliable than electronic ones with cheap senders. On a race car an oil pressure sender for a digital dash would be mounted away from the heat and vibration of the engine, on a piece of braided stainless -3 hose. It's probably the sender or wiring playing in your case. All the critical pressure gauges on my car are mechanical (boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure). Unless you buy very expensive Aerospace type pressure transducers (senders) that come from the likes of Honeywell, they give trouble, especially bolted direct to the engine. far cheaper to buy quality mechanical pressure gauges.

The four wheel drive Skyline's (GTR) are heavier and of course have 400 cc less engine capacity. The proper way to assess whether two cars will have similar performance is to work out their BHP per tonne figures, and fudge in a bit for torque curve differences. A two wheel drive Skyline GTS-t will need less power to outperform a MKIV Supra as it's quite a lot lighter. A GTR will need more power due to transmission losses, and it's probably heavier in R34 format. The R32 was the lightest, they got heavier from there on. The R34 is positively porky.

Rub your finger in it and taste it, brake fluid has a very distinctive taste. Be lucky it's not next door's cat though....

If you take the pads out and carefully press the brake pedal to extend the piston by say 15 mm, you should be able to push it back with your thumbs without too much effort. With two pistons, or four, you may need to have a helper to use a lever to stop the freer pitons coming out before the stickier ones. Even on new calipers one piston will nearly always come out in advance of another. Once you have done a few calipers it's easy to see when a piston is actually seized rather than just a bit slower to extend than a pairing. If you intend refurbing a caliper USE THE HYDRAULICS OF THE CAR'S BRAKES to extend all pistons as far as you dare without them coming out of the seals. The hydraulics are VERY powerful and it is far easier to extend seized pistons like that, ready for full extraction, rather than trying to pull them out on the bench. HTH.

It's a LH (passenger side on UK cars) one.