Chris Wilson

90119-08890 I have new and used.

If that's the case I will probably have a choice of excellent quality used pads around.

One of our dogs is looking ropey, would you have their phone number please?

Edimax 2001 HV here and they have worked perfectly for months. I can install and set them up, so ANYONE can

90916-03093

Too cold, and would need mapping to suit, most maps are barely out of the warm up calibrations at 70 degrees. Plus it will use more fuel. I'd stay with a stock genuine Toyota stat. I run a modded stock Nissan stat on my RB26, tweaked to 80 degrees C. Works fine and in conjunction with a locked up (removed, actually) viscous keeps everything cool after 20 lap full bore track sessions on a warm day.

No, it's a function of wishbone lengths and angles. Running much below stock ride height makes the curve MUCH steeper though, hence abnormal inner tyre wear on cars lowered very much at all, even when the geo is reset, static camber wise.

If you valve the Penskes with minimal back bump and a moderate amount of rebound it should be OK. I have little interest in drag racing, but maybe your dampers have a slow speed bleed on the bump valving, this should be an area of interest I run triple adjustable Penske's on one of the Zeus race cars, they have been superb. I also have a good damper man who can advise on valving, but I doubt he's got much drag race experience. Damping is damping though.... Good luck, don't blow it up!

Grind 90% through the rings, with a 2mm slitting discs, split them off in two halves each. Rotary wire brush the threads, oil and fit new rings. You MIGHT get those turning in situ with a good steel C wrench and plenty of Plus Gas. You might not....

The Scraedar valve is just for re gassing with nitrogen, leave that alone. (I can re gas or check pressures if needed) The adjuster is in the top of the stem. Not sure, but I think they are just adjustable in one plane which affects bump and rebound. The Drag shocks have hardly any bump in the rear dampers, and hardly any rebound in the front, to promote weight transfer. In other words the bump / rebound curves are heavily skewed on each end of the car for this specialist application. The problem with the MKIV is it has such a steep camber gain curve on the rear suspension a lot of asquat gives a lot of negative camber, killing tyre contact patch area, even if you start with some positive camber. It's probably a far from ideal IRS for drag racing.

You need to get a pad outline and post it, that way we traders can match it against other makes. £320 is the going rate for half decent race compounds in big pad sizes, these days. They probably come originally with pads made of re-cycled Taiwanese donkey dung, so most replacement pads will be a step forward. Similarly, you need to get proper measurements off the discs so we can see if Brembo, AP, Alcon and suchlike have a suitable disc.

I can't remember who was looking for a trailer, but this would be perfect. If I could bear the hassle I would buy it myself and sell my none tilt bed one. Excellent make with full spares bck up, and the price is very good, too. Nothing to do with me, just saw it and thought it may help a member. http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/37780/brian_james_flat_bed_tilt_trailer_tt30_tb.html

Resistance of water temp sensor at varying temps below: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?238522-2JZ-sensor-resistance Post #2 I have MAP sensor figures but not to hand.

Actually, thinking back, I had a single turbo 2JZ in last year with tapping from the cam followers. Slight wear, quiet when cold, tappety when hot. The bucket bores were a few tenths o/size, not worth worrying about. Oil viscosity would change the noise or get rid of it until wear got worse. Head was stripped and everything checked out fine, otherwise.

If the MAP sensor is outputting the wrong voltage for the pressure / vac applied, or the pressure / vac signal source has a leak, it could well over fuel, yet still give pretty normal boost and good power. Also if the t/stat is opening too soon a low engine temp will have it running on a rich part of the map. Again, pretty normal boost and power, but bad economy. The only way to see is to measure resistance of the ecu water temp sensor and voltage from the MAP sensor.

OK, I'll shut up then, you seem to have the job sussed

Nissan runs the O2 sensors right by the outlets of the two turbos and I have run Bosch LSU and NTK sensors in the same location for many hours of track usage with no issues at all. They light up faster and maybe even respond a bit faster up there. Should be no issue at all in the first de cat pipe. The two small adaptors in the turbo manifolds themselves are for Inconel EGT probes, pre the turbos.

They are superb, fully mappable if one of the pre loaded templates doesn't suit. Quite the best ABS set up I have ever come across. At a price though, circa £5K but with excellent re sale residuals. Pair this with decent traction control algorithms and you should get an awesome track package. Bosch do a 4 channel data splitter to allow one set of wheel speed sensors to be used by the M4 and by another (traction control?) device.

Check the free play of the tappet buckets in their guides, and take all the valves out and check for spring damage or bad valve or guide wear. Check all cam lobes minutely for wear or damage. Check the cam caps for wear or misplacement.

Giving serious consideration to fitting one of these, having had a drive of a car with a well set up system on it. Anyone had any dealings with them, or interested in one? (They aren't cheap....). http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/language2/html/3720.htm

Measure the output voltage from the MAP sensor at idle and at cruise and post the results. Check the MAP sensor hose and anything that has been T'd off it have no splits or leaks. Has it got a new thermostat in it? If it runs too cool it will use a lot more fuel. You need a good garage to check all the sensor outputs.

Has it got stock cams and springs? A loose spark plug will make a noise like that. As I said on the phone, so will a cracked or blowing exhaust manifold. Could even be piston noise.

Just tow it out with another car? The pads will have rusted slightly to the discs, a good jolt on a tow rope will free them.

Measure the fuel pressure you have, the stock FPR is very very reliable and good, never seen an issue with one in years. The only aftermarket ones I will even think of using are Bosch Motorsport ones. You will need to adapt the pipework to use one though, and you certainly don't need one. Any decent garage should be able to check the fuel pressure.

It should point downwards by about 30 degrees or so, that way condensation can't run into, and sit in the sensor. Check for clearance before drilling and welding!