Chris Wilson

Proper mappable ecu to optimize timing and fuelling, maybe a pair of cams, I would say after that it's single time. But you then already have the ecu, and cams, so you aren't buying stuff that's immediately redundant. Going single PROPERLY is a big step, engine should have a proper rebuild first, madness expecting 500 plus BHP from a 100,000 miler or so engine. Fraser MacKellar of Motec gained about 45 BHP on his "BPU" (what a silly and typically American thing that is...) VVTi when he fitted an M800, and pulled some fuel out and added some timing and played with the VVti stuff.

The control algorithms would be a total nightmare. F1 struggled with this. You could buy the Shiftec unit, but it's mega money: http://www.shiftec.com/other_products.html Build it as an auto and have push buttons for the gearbox control, then you lose that hated clutch master cylinder spoiling the engine bay If you are so fond of minimalism just buy a pogo stick....

He's from Lancashire, best not to encourage him.

I have a new standard thermostat in stock, can't you just buy one over there though? Happy to send it, seems an expensive way to get one, that's all.

Very artistic Jurgen, do you do porno films too? We need some lap times next, not this rolling road malarkey. Is it quiet enough fro track days? Well done, great build, well documented, thanks for sharing.

If that elusive lottery win befalls you, or wealthy aunt Simone leaves you her town house property in Belgravia, here's a big boy's toy to play with: http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/37670/peugeot_xv8r_with_cosworth_xb_power.html I can't see a huge queue forming instantly at his door, so you probably have time to hire a trailer and tidy the garage out ready Nice build, obviously cost a fortune, but £325K is hugely optimistic. Late Group C territory, or historic F1 with big spares package.

Matt and Blackie are now looking for a small house together, and considering a civil ceremony to cement their new special relationship Glad you have reached a suitable agreement, it's nice when members can resolve what started as something seemingly very acrimonious in such a way.

Yes, even with -12 hose and good fittings there will be some pressure and flow drop with yards of hosing.

So long as you duct air to it it will be more than adequate. Look how small the aperture is in the stock bumper compared to the area of the SMIC. They use the expansion ratio of the duct to slow the air down, and INCREASE efficiency. Making (neat) ducts is a PITA, unless you are good at making moulds and using composites. A fabricated ally sheet one is a possibility, but the aperture in the bumper is not a regular shape. You need to exit the air, similar to the louvred liner in the RH wheel arch.

There are far better aftermarket traction control systems than the stock setup, which is pretty much "I see wheel spin, I'll kill the engine dead for a few seconds" . Using the throttle butterfly is how the stock system works, most after market ones cut injectors in a sequence.

http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/coolers/tempacure.html

Not a good idea, too much pipe run to be ideal.

Depends how hard you drive it, and for how long at a stretch. So long as a decent ester based full synthetic is kept below 130C it'll be OK, but I like to stay below 120. Your current set up is putting engine oil AND transmission oil heat into the water, I always like to split these on a track car unless you have a good overhead of water cooling capacity. The issues are finding holes big enough and of the right shape to get the coolers behind and still in full air flow over their whole surface area. A small DUCTED cooler is better than a big UNDUCTED cooler though.

Can't you give it a whiff of nitrous to get it spooled up off the line?

Thanks Wez, the price is appealing, willing to work at it a while longer, cheers, looking forward to having a play with them tonight.

Very easily, my bank statement came this morning

http://www.peugeot-cosworth.co.uk/thecar_history.htm Air valve engine, full strength http://www.race-cars.com/engsales/cosworth/1290178741/1290178741ss.htm Prolinx specialist http://www.prolinx.biz/kf_v6engines.htm Prolinx would be a good contact for the drag racers, they do nice bespoke driveshafts....

They give about 430 or so, not a lot of torque, but with my Tractive box and a low diff ratio, in a stripped out FD it should make one go pretty well, plus they sound mega. They shake a lot though, being a flat plane V6, so things need Loctiting All the ones Cosworth released were on air valves and need converting to normal springs, as the air valve stuff was frail and hugely expensive, so they don't rev quite as high as they did in the DTM cars. There's a place in Wales that specialises in them, will try and find the link. Tiny engines, and very very light, one would be good in a Caterfield or very lightly built Ultima. LOT of engine for 20K

To resurrect this I have been playing with the Race Technology software and find it a total nightmare, I have barely worked out how to show graphs. It would be great if Wez or anyone else could post me some log fioles to play with. It's undubtedlly me, but i am struggling to master the Race Technology stuff and have put on hold buying a DL2. I am looking at Gems stuff, which is a lot dearer, but at least I can use it Would like some more Syvecs logs, can you add GPS as an input on one, or chassis logging? If you are willing to share Syvecs engine logs, or RT logs, preferably with GPS working, please e-mail me them at [email protected] Thanks! I am PM'ing Wez with this too.

Do you drag racers not data log? I am getting more into this nowadays, I always poo pooed it, but with GPS logging and ecus with plenty of logging ability I am surprised few mention it on here, the Syvecs will log quite a lot, won't it? Add a GPS and a 3 axis G sensor, and some video overlay, and you should be able to get some useful data, although the first few feet with GPS may be a bit sketch, maybe best to use wheel sensors, too.

I have long hankered to put one of Cosworth's Opel DTM V6 engines in a Mazda FD I have. They rarely come up for sale, but one has appeared this morning on racecarsdirect. I would love to buy this but from the way this country is headed I think I need to be sensible, not something I excel at, but something i need to practice more these days http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/37800/cosworth_kf_2_5_v6_opel_dtm.html

Take the stock oil to water heat exchanger off and fit a -12 hosed cooler of about 35 rows somewhere (not easy on a MKIV....). If you have a front mount IC the water rad will have to be FAR better than if the stock ducting was in situ. You could make a none viscous fan drive, to run the fan at full speed. You NEED the fan shroud in place. Gearbox cooler? Is it an auto? Unless you do endurance racing a manual won't really need this at all, nor a diff cooler.

Someone mentioned removing the `stat altogether earlier. this is BAD BAD BAD. Modern engines have a calculated and physically measured flow and pressure drop around the head and block, and the way the 2JZ `stat operates has a profound effect on this. Removing it altogether could actually cause nucleate boiling and / or a far less efficient cooling system. There are very good reasons why you would NOT want to run a lower than stock coolant temperature actually, and I can think of very few good reasons to run the TRD `stat.

You would have to ring me first thing tomorrow and be willing to pay postal charges for a Saturday AM delivery (expensive), but I would do my best.