Chris Wilson

http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/coolers/tempacure.html

Not a good idea, too much pipe run to be ideal.

Depends how hard you drive it, and for how long at a stretch. So long as a decent ester based full synthetic is kept below 130C it'll be OK, but I like to stay below 120. Your current set up is putting engine oil AND transmission oil heat into the water, I always like to split these on a track car unless you have a good overhead of water cooling capacity. The issues are finding holes big enough and of the right shape to get the coolers behind and still in full air flow over their whole surface area. A small DUCTED cooler is better than a big UNDUCTED cooler though.

Can't you give it a whiff of nitrous to get it spooled up off the line?

Thanks Wez, the price is appealing, willing to work at it a while longer, cheers, looking forward to having a play with them tonight.

Very easily, my bank statement came this morning

http://www.peugeot-cosworth.co.uk/thecar_history.htm Air valve engine, full strength http://www.race-cars.com/engsales/cosworth/1290178741/1290178741ss.htm Prolinx specialist http://www.prolinx.biz/kf_v6engines.htm Prolinx would be a good contact for the drag racers, they do nice bespoke driveshafts....

They give about 430 or so, not a lot of torque, but with my Tractive box and a low diff ratio, in a stripped out FD it should make one go pretty well, plus they sound mega. They shake a lot though, being a flat plane V6, so things need Loctiting All the ones Cosworth released were on air valves and need converting to normal springs, as the air valve stuff was frail and hugely expensive, so they don't rev quite as high as they did in the DTM cars. There's a place in Wales that specialises in them, will try and find the link. Tiny engines, and very very light, one would be good in a Caterfield or very lightly built Ultima. LOT of engine for 20K

To resurrect this I have been playing with the Race Technology software and find it a total nightmare, I have barely worked out how to show graphs. It would be great if Wez or anyone else could post me some log fioles to play with. It's undubtedlly me, but i am struggling to master the Race Technology stuff and have put on hold buying a DL2. I am looking at Gems stuff, which is a lot dearer, but at least I can use it Would like some more Syvecs logs, can you add GPS as an input on one, or chassis logging? If you are willing to share Syvecs engine logs, or RT logs, preferably with GPS working, please e-mail me them at [email protected] Thanks! I am PM'ing Wez with this too.

Do you drag racers not data log? I am getting more into this nowadays, I always poo pooed it, but with GPS logging and ecus with plenty of logging ability I am surprised few mention it on here, the Syvecs will log quite a lot, won't it? Add a GPS and a 3 axis G sensor, and some video overlay, and you should be able to get some useful data, although the first few feet with GPS may be a bit sketch, maybe best to use wheel sensors, too.

I have long hankered to put one of Cosworth's Opel DTM V6 engines in a Mazda FD I have. They rarely come up for sale, but one has appeared this morning on racecarsdirect. I would love to buy this but from the way this country is headed I think I need to be sensible, not something I excel at, but something i need to practice more these days http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/37800/cosworth_kf_2_5_v6_opel_dtm.html

Take the stock oil to water heat exchanger off and fit a -12 hosed cooler of about 35 rows somewhere (not easy on a MKIV....). If you have a front mount IC the water rad will have to be FAR better than if the stock ducting was in situ. You could make a none viscous fan drive, to run the fan at full speed. You NEED the fan shroud in place. Gearbox cooler? Is it an auto? Unless you do endurance racing a manual won't really need this at all, nor a diff cooler.

Someone mentioned removing the `stat altogether earlier. this is BAD BAD BAD. Modern engines have a calculated and physically measured flow and pressure drop around the head and block, and the way the 2JZ `stat operates has a profound effect on this. Removing it altogether could actually cause nucleate boiling and / or a far less efficient cooling system. There are very good reasons why you would NOT want to run a lower than stock coolant temperature actually, and I can think of very few good reasons to run the TRD `stat.

You would have to ring me first thing tomorrow and be willing to pay postal charges for a Saturday AM delivery (expensive), but I would do my best.

90119-08890 I have new and used.

If that's the case I will probably have a choice of excellent quality used pads around.

One of our dogs is looking ropey, would you have their phone number please?

Edimax 2001 HV here and they have worked perfectly for months. I can install and set them up, so ANYONE can

90916-03093

Too cold, and would need mapping to suit, most maps are barely out of the warm up calibrations at 70 degrees. Plus it will use more fuel. I'd stay with a stock genuine Toyota stat. I run a modded stock Nissan stat on my RB26, tweaked to 80 degrees C. Works fine and in conjunction with a locked up (removed, actually) viscous keeps everything cool after 20 lap full bore track sessions on a warm day.

No, it's a function of wishbone lengths and angles. Running much below stock ride height makes the curve MUCH steeper though, hence abnormal inner tyre wear on cars lowered very much at all, even when the geo is reset, static camber wise.

If you valve the Penskes with minimal back bump and a moderate amount of rebound it should be OK. I have little interest in drag racing, but maybe your dampers have a slow speed bleed on the bump valving, this should be an area of interest I run triple adjustable Penske's on one of the Zeus race cars, they have been superb. I also have a good damper man who can advise on valving, but I doubt he's got much drag race experience. Damping is damping though.... Good luck, don't blow it up!

Grind 90% through the rings, with a 2mm slitting discs, split them off in two halves each. Rotary wire brush the threads, oil and fit new rings. You MIGHT get those turning in situ with a good steel C wrench and plenty of Plus Gas. You might not....

The Scraedar valve is just for re gassing with nitrogen, leave that alone. (I can re gas or check pressures if needed) The adjuster is in the top of the stem. Not sure, but I think they are just adjustable in one plane which affects bump and rebound. The Drag shocks have hardly any bump in the rear dampers, and hardly any rebound in the front, to promote weight transfer. In other words the bump / rebound curves are heavily skewed on each end of the car for this specialist application. The problem with the MKIV is it has such a steep camber gain curve on the rear suspension a lot of asquat gives a lot of negative camber, killing tyre contact patch area, even if you start with some positive camber. It's probably a far from ideal IRS for drag racing.

You need to get a pad outline and post it, that way we traders can match it against other makes. £320 is the going rate for half decent race compounds in big pad sizes, these days. They probably come originally with pads made of re-cycled Taiwanese donkey dung, so most replacement pads will be a step forward. Similarly, you need to get proper measurements off the discs so we can see if Brembo, AP, Alcon and suchlike have a suitable disc.