Chris Wilson

Thanks, what sort of stuff can you log?

Cough, err, you mean track testing Jurgen?

Be aware that the outer edge of the caliper bore itself is probably undersize with rust, that will need cleaning off carefully to do a proper job. Definitely piston, dust seal and piston seal out job!

How do you create a log, and what is it read with?

Some of you guys with Syvecs must surely be logging with a GPS receiver input? I don't think the AEM will log GPS, will it? Post your log files, then we'll know

Usually the thickness of two new pads including their backing plates but don't shout if it comes out of the seal....

Dampers only affect transient body roll, once it has taken a set roll is controlled by roll centre height, spring rates and anti roll bar rates. So you need stiffer springs, with matching damper rates, and stiffer ARB's. You probably won't satisfactorily achieve body control without doing all 3, dampers, springs and ARB's. How far you go is down to how compromised as a road car you will accept it. With 1000 lbs ins + front springs, dampers valved to control them, and a huge front ARB it will feel like it has NO suspension on the road. Then the suspension bushes will be too compliant...

Thinking about this I feel you would be mad to drive to a mapping session miles away. Why not just hire the trailer for two or three days and have the reassurance that if it blows up or throws a wobbly on the dyno you can get the car home, TDI won't be aggrieved having to push a dead car around, maybe store it (more expense...), and you have a means of getting YOURSELF back home. Obviously we all hope our engine ISN'T going to go pop, but there's a most definite risk, and for the cost of a trailer hire for 3 days I'd not be taking it.

What springs are on it? Even better do you know what rate they are? What ARB's? Got a photo of it showing stationary ride heights from the side? To make it work properly round the cones will make it horrible on the road...

I would speak directly with whoever made it in the first place to see if it's both safe and feasible. I suspect it's neither though as the ends that take the steel or alloy fittings will be wound differently to the middle section(s).

Stainless pistons for the J-Spec calipers are being made very shortly, just awaiting some stainless bar stock. I would *guess* I will have them made within 3 weeks.

I should have added that in the wet a powerful car with no downforce worth speaking of will almost certainly be faster with a decent (read active) 4WD set up. Turbo 2WD cars with a ski slope like power curve are particularly unpleasant in the wet, and a 4WD set up will tame them quite dramatically. A "wet map" helps, especially if you have effective VVTi mapping.

4 WD only becomes an advantage if you have traction issues with only two wheel drive. A really good LSD, really well sorted suspension and proper tyres should allow even a 2 WD car with little or no downforce an advantage as the weight will be a lot less, and the transmission losses similarly advantageous. Drag racing apart, the simplicity, weight saving and lesser power loss of the two wheel drive car is a major bonus unless you have so much power traction is a real problem. I have an R33 GTS-t with well sorted handling, a proper LSD and good tyres. It's just reached the point of being under tyred, but not from a traction point of view, but from a front end grip point of view. I'd have to address this with different front arches and new wheels et cetera. I have a new GTR shell I have had caged, and long term plans are to swap the good stuff over into that, but retaining two wheel drive still. The GTR shell already accommodates wider rims and tyres. A MKIV Supra is far better built than a Skyline, and has far less issues with structural rust. The RB26DETT already comes with multiple throttle bodies, which is a major plus, the 2J has few if any off the shelf options for this, but nonetheless is a superb engine. Hard core suspension stuff is more readily available for the GTR. Many pluses, and many minuses, looks and cost apart. Hard one to call. Given the budget I would say buy a mint GTS-t and build a strong RB26DETT engine for it, and hope the stock gearbox doesn't blow up too soon. Do some power to weight maths and that will help make a decision.

I am now selling brand new genuine GM 3 bar MAP sensors for £82 plus VAT and P&P. I use these for aftermarket ecu's as the data on them is available, and many have pre compiled tables for them, plus I use them for data logging air filter / intake restrictions, pressure drops across IC's, and exhaust back pressure pre and post turbo(s). Motec want £130 plus VAT.... To data log you need either an ecu like a Syvecs that can log data, or a small standalone logger. Someone handy could just use an small industrial logger if all they wanted was to monitor pressures from these sensors. I may look into this. If you have a 12 volt or PC run oscilloscope you can read the pressure from that. It's the proper way to see just HOW restrictive things are, and choose turbine housing sizes.

Piercings are all the rage, aren't they? Call that a cheap one

Seized caliper or caliper slider if J-Spec calipers, see it all the time. Possibly the disc is now ruined as well, the heat will crack or warp them, needs sorting out or boiled fluid and no proper brakes!

Whatever you do be sure it's WELL covered, mapping on the road is a very high risk activity, personally I won't contemplate it, and temporary cover from some unknown broker for that sort of activity would give me the willies. Can't it be mapped on a hub dyno? Then tweaked for cold start and other niceties later?

Self aligning bearing like is used on kart rear axles in an alloy plate slotted for the bearing plate bolts in one axis, and slotted in the other axis where the plate mounts to, er, well, whatever it mounts to Without digitising it all you would have to be both a good measurer with good measuring stuff, and also a good machinist to get it right with no adjustment needed or available. Watch the max RPM limit on self aligners, some are modest.

Was it mainly cosmetic damage on proper inspection? Good luck with it, wish I could help, but I don't break cars, so have no panels at all.

You probably DON'T need tails.

Be VERY careful with rotary wire brushes, a friend of my fathers lost sight in one eye when a bristle flew out and pierced his eyeball. ALWAYS wear decent goggles using when one. They have come up great!

You probably don't need tails unless the actual connectors are worn or damaged. Whifbitz probably don't sell them. If you find you do need them the part numbers are in the thread I linked to earlier.

Only YOU know if they need changing, I haven't seen the car you know...... You were asking about them though!

One of 12263-46010 and one of 12264-46010 (hoses) and whatever connector shells and tails you want.

Just order them from your local Toyota dealer, it'll be cheaper.