Chris Wilson

Find me a cheap and very good bodyshop and I'll show you an awesome queue of motor traders! In 35 years I have yet to find one that lasts more than 5 minutes. I know a very good body shop in Whitchurch, but they are definitely not cheap. Energy costs for the heated spray booth, overheads meeting ever tighter and more lucicrous emissions and `elf `n' safety regulations, and the lack of good apprentices who want to do a job that involves physical work means successful body shops are costly affairs to run. Add a profit margin to the overheads and you get expensive paint jobs.

Definitely, you'd be mad to consider it. You'd be off after two laps. My Skyline is 98 Db static at a legit and unfixed testing RPM, 95% of Supras that come here haven't a cat in hell's chance of passing a legit track noise test, static or drive by. Stock or Tanabe Medallion Touring are two of the few safe bets for reliable track day visits.

Almost certainly a repossession. Mortgage arrears or foreclosure. There's a Lien on it, whoever is owed money has a title to it, or a lender has title. A court has basically stopped "a person" from selling and doing a runner.

FWIW: Full belt for 25 minutes round Donington is VASTLY different to drag runs, the thermal loads are constant for nearly half an hour, as are revs in at least the top third of the rev range. Very few people seem to run a MKIV like this. Paul's Whifbitz cars do some longish races. I think 600 BHP with a wide torque band is a reliable figure to aim for. If I was building MYSELF an engine for this it would have: Stock block at stock bore, ideally, or 1st oversize, bored and honed by someone that knows how to, and has the machinery to make and hone round parallel holes. The block should have virtually NO internal corrosion in the water galleries, and have a perfect head face. Given a good budget i would always buy a NEW block casting. Fit all new core plugs to block and head if using old castings! JUN (Cosworth) pistons, or Tomei if they do them now. Steel rods from Arrow in the UK New stock head casting, mildly cleaned up if budget allows. Cosworth rod and crank bearings. Stock and plus or minus 1 thou available. New stock valves and new springs as recommended by cam maker. HKS 270 'ish degree cams with recommended springs. STEEL not Ti retainers, new stock collets. New none stroker stock or checked to be perfect in terms of straigthness, size, ovality and finish used crank. Used cranks are risky, you don't know what revs or abuse they have seen, I would find an N/A engine that's been in front of an auto box and risk that if necessary. N/A and TT cranks are the same. BE SURE AND CERTAIN there's no oil seal groove worn on the crank's nose where the front seal rubs. New stock oil pump. New stock water pump. New viscous coupling. New stock rad with stock ducting from stock front bumper. Stock undertray left in place. Use the stock fan shroud. New SIDE mount intercooler. New stock crank damper, not an aftermarket one. Giken twin plate clutch and flywheel. Stock intake and TB. Bosch or Siemens injectors in aftermarket rail Bosch FPR if (big if...) you need to raise fuel pressure from stock, if not use stock FPR. Single Bosch 044 in tank pump unless data logs show fuel pressure issues. GT35 genuine Garrett turbo with Ni Resist or cast stainless (Tial) turbine housing. Genuine Tial wastegate unless budget exists for something better (and a LOT dearer). Lots of fake Garrett turbos and Tial gates around, buy from Garrett agent in the UK. Exhaust manifold. Hmm, tricky. I don't trust tubular manifolds unless they are Inconel and everything is supported off cranes with rod ens to take all weight off the manifold. I would compromise flow with a cast iron manifold. One US company is listing cast stainless turbo manifolds in 2JZ N/A head bolt pattern, if they did them in TT pattern I would say try one of those. Arnout in Holland is talking of resurrecting his cast single turbo manifold, but may be some time, or even not happen. ECU. Flavour on here is Syvecs. Very capable. Will you want to fiddle with the software yourself? If so i find it a nightmare. AFAIK their is no proper data logging software package with a proper GUI for it. If you want it fitting, mapped and left alone it's probably fine. Others are AEM (old school, not very good), or a plug and play (save for mapping and swapping three wires for MAP sensor for J-Spec cars) Motec M*00 series ecu from John Reed racing in the USA. BIG engine oil cooler on thermostatically controlled take off plate under an oil filter with anti drain back valve in it, about 34 rows on -12 hoses. Oil cooler mounted with hoese coming out the top. Delete the stock oil to water heat exchanger. Stock coil packs. Stock head gasket or Cometic.

Cosworth now list cooler opening `stats : http://www.cosworthperformance.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=103&idproduct=857

Turn the radio up, save money

Decent resolution, in focus pictures, well done Ian Can't see anything amiss there, but similarly the last head to make a tapping noise looked perfect, but the bucket clearances in the sleeves in the head on some valves was just over spec. I wouldn't worry about it. If it's bucket in bucket sleeve wear only a new or perfect used head will cure it for sensible money. Yellow stripe: Wider oil feed groove on front cam bearing journal leaves the oil stain in the un-rubbed area of the corresponding cap.

No, I am pretty sure he's removed his air con pump, fitted a shorter belt, found the new belt run fouls the tensioner assemblie's damper bracket and damper that only manuals have, and he has removed the damper and the bracket(s) that it bolts to.? The tensioner arm itself, and the tensioner pulley remain?

Nothing new in delegation and only operating one control each, it's how half the people get home from my local each night

Lude icrus belt arrangement:lol: Look who's talking It is an odd thread, no way the belt won't slip or come off altogether with no means of tensioning it. I think people are getting a bit confused here.

Yes they do, but Faye has never let me down, she always gets stuff to me on time. She *MIGHT* be persuaded to send stuff none recorded at your own risk. I don't know who does a rail to FPR adaptor any more, sorry.

Either for me, so long as a GTS-t is welcome? Or I can "test" a customer's car I suppose...

Comes at a price though: http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/37877/arrows_3_seater_f1_car.html

I did have a look for it but it came to nothing. It was apparently known locally as the Bible Land. As you say, someone will have ring fenced it, cursorily maintained it, and taken possession. *astards

Best bet is to try and locate the old title deeds. luckily we have those for our bungalow, as it was buily on the site of an old small holding, and we even have photos of how it once was. those that say they are living in poverty in the UK should see how some country workers lived in the 1700's. Even today there are people round the country who have never been out of the county they were born in, and who have never had an inside loo, or a dedicated bathroom, it's quite surprising. The problem with title deeds is they get lodged at various solicitors over the years and then solicitors amalgamate or close, and records get lost, destroyed or forgotten about. My late father owned some land in Holt, in Wales, and kept meaning to go and look at it. Then he realized the deeds were lost (my father and mother had a penchant for falling out with, and changing solicitors like I change my socks), so I now lie in bed wondering if Tesco owe me 3 million for building on land I own but can't find There's a lot of info out there, as people are pointing out, more than I thought, I suppose it's how determined you are to follow it all up. Which all makes me wonder, where did I put those bloody deeds....?

I think it was a small single, there was a thread about it and Kiesa did have some input himself from memory. I *THINK* the thread was on here and not A N Other Supra forum.

My God, John sure has changed from when he was a nipper... What was up with the old turbo Dude?

I can find you a good used stock damper if you need one. Or new Bilsteins?

Thanks Wez, should be a lot faster from there as well, cheers.

No worries, most people think they give carte blanche to drive anything, anywhere, uninsured, and in death trap condition. Sadly they don't

Trade plates have nothing to do with insurance at all. If I lent him my trade plates it wouldn't convey any insurance cover. They merely allow the registered owner of the plates to legally use cars on the public road with no current road fund licence. Even then there are if's and's and but's. My insurance is not related in any way to the plates, nor vice versa, so they won't help him I'm afraid.

Please use http://www.gatesgarth.com/kiesa.mpeg in about 15 minutes, as my ftp site is off my home PC network and it's crawling with all the connections It'll be a hell of a lot faster from my hosted web site. I have had to suspend log ins via FTP, sorry. Wez / mods, can you alter your post please mate to reflect the link above? Thanks

For circuit racing yes, most definitely.

To win you first have to finish. High boost turbo rotaries are not known for their exemplary reliability.... However, the FD has a fine chassis, and there's one car running in the CNC Heads North west Championship that is a regular winner, or podium finisher. It does get beaten by Caterfield type stuff though. The really reliable rotaries seem to be built from new casings, and run in championships that allow decent fuel octane levels.

It's also crazy what magistrates think of 130 MPH plus, so take care Jurgen, please I am not being a killjoy, it doesn't bother me if people go up the motorway at 170 MPH so long as they don't have me in the passenger seat, it's just that I can quite easily see how you'd feel about a ban before you have time to get a few miles under its belt.