Chris Wilson

Oh, by the way, meant to post this a few days ago, not that Croft is likely to appeal to our southern members, but it's a none starter for track days for cars like modded Supras: http://www.croftcircuit.co.uk/car.php

Looking at the electric bill with a frown on my face, let alone another race car

I am not a fan of the Rover V8 at all, but an iron block Ford, whilst historically correct, would be a LOT heavier, and even more so with two turbos nailed on it. At least it seems to have a decent transaxle, not something from a Renault 30 or an old Porsche.

Agree totally. Even getting a few Supra owners together on a given day at a given venue will be a challenge. So many cars are immediately ineligible due to loud exhausts, for a start. I think most Supra owners seriously interested in taking them on track are already doing so at events that suit their personal geographical and diary needs

It never stops for people like me, you suddenly think fast road cars are a waste of money and a serious risk to your licence and safety, so you start with race cars, then faster race cars until you get too old to get in and out of one

You should take the reservoir off and clean it out anyway. For the sake of a pint or so of fluid you could try it with the reservoir cleaned before buying a pump. New they are well over £300 + VAT.

Only like driving a LHD car, becomes second nature in minutes. Most race cars have RH gear change.

You need to measure pump outlet pressure when turning the steering at idle. it could be the pump has a worn rotor, or it could be weepy rack seals. I could do this, but would need to make up a pressure adaptor, which I would have to charge for. To be honest the cheapest, quickest and easiest option is to take a risk and try a new pump. I would also make sure the gauze in the bottom of the fluid reservoir is TOTALLY clean and clear, (wash it out with brake cleaner, thinners, or petrol), and that the O ring and the pipe for the SUCTION side of the pump are perfect with NO air leaks allowing the pump to suck air. If it were to be doing this it would usually be noisy though. Is it noisy? Has it lost any fluid in use?

http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/37896/gtd40.html As kit cars go this looks like a really nice job with superb spec.

Let us know how you get on, always good to know of decent body shops in the locale. Good luck Paul.

Do I know you....? Morning Simon, they are quite dear, but very good. They used to do all Alan Minshaw's race cars (Demon Tweeks) and did my Skyline when it needed a new side in it, and my yellow Zeus. If you want to take it for a quote ask for Andrew. The place is called AMW Motors (Andrew Morgan-Wynn). They are BMW approved and a proper place. http://www.amwmotors.co.uk

Did you trial fit them before painting them? Be interested to see how they sit in the apertures. GREAT weight saving, is the rear hatch carbon, too?

Cosworth *USA* , say no more....

I go by £150 + a panel for good work, £100 a panel for a "blow over", as a guide. I don't do bodywork and try and avoid recommending places as even if I didn't do the work people have given me grief if they don't like the end result

Is that 5 kilos painted Jamie? I wouldn't want carbon doors on a car without a proper cage with decent side impact bars. I nearly fitted mine to my cageless GTS-t, and I am glad I didn't, as I rattled it into the tyre wall at Oulton. With carbon doors I would have sustained some injury.

I would put money the noise also going if you re fitted the stock cams, too. Whilst annoying the noise isn't really causing any harm, so what price a tapping sound? Both the buckets and the bores they slide in were slightly off the size specs, so although new buckets probably would have fixed it, you never know. Plus you may have to re shim, depending on production tolerances of the bucket thickness.

Too much fuel.

It's probably a far from accurate way of measuring the ater tem, you need to measure it in the head, like the stock ecu coolant sensor does, so it may be hotter than you think. Rad size won't matter, within reason, it's the `stat that controls flow and temp. If you are concerned fit a new stock Toyota `stat.

How are you logging the temp, with the Syvecs? What `stat is in it, not a stock one I would have thought?

That's far too cool for a road car engine, the oil will never get hot enough to drive out water contamination, and it will drink petrol. Track only temp.

Bedford is one of THE most stringent circuits in the UK for noise. The only way to be sure is to measure it with a properly specced meter. Pop into a local track day and get it measured, or by a proper meter to test yourself with. Buy one between a few of you if you like. Get the club to buy one? Or fit a system you KNOW will be quiet enough. I still don't get this obsession with hugely noisy exhausts, track use or not. I'd want to be as discrete as possible on the roads these days.

Fay at Speedflow will make up lines and fittings bought from her, FOC. http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/

Sounds like it's the wrong hose. USUALLY even cheap fittings are to size. Buy ONLY Earls, Goodridge, Speedflow or Aeroquip braided hose!!! Never buy unbranded hose or fittings of Ebay. The whole reason for braided hose use is for applications that need their additional burst and abrasion resistance. So buy BRANDED. If people are tempted to buy cheap hose and fittings for the "look" just imagine what "look" a burnt out shell, or a car buried in the Armco through brake failure has

I'll stick to cars before I get sued....

What make is the hose and fittings? Some Taiwanese stuff off Ebay is all but impossible to use as the size of the hose or fittings is out. There's a bit of a knack to it, but I have done so many in my time I guess I have acquired it. Teflon or rubber lined hose? Try holding the fitting in the vice and screwing the ferrule and pipe ONTO the fitting. Tipex the hose right by the ferrule so you see if it's pushing the hose out. Also works as a safety feature to see if the hose moves under pressure test. Oil and fuel pressure hoses should really be pressure tested on a rig to way over running pressure, but most people don't bother.