Chris Wilson

EGT sensors are fitted BEFORE the first cat on Jap spec TT models. I don't recall having seen any NA Jap specs with an oxygen sensor after any cat either, just UK /EU model TT's A photo or two showing the thing, the number of wires to it and its location would be interesting.

Thank you, I'm still here and battling on, quite busy actually, despite "social distancing" Hopefully once we see if this vaccine gives elderly people and NHS staff two heads we can re-box this gift from China and send it back with "a thanks for nowt" note attached, and the the bill

All the stainless braided flexible BRAKE hoses I have seen are Teflon lined, there may be air hoses and suchlike in -3 that have a nitrile or somesuch liner but I have never come across them. Stuff like Goodridge and Aeroquip -3 is Teflon lined.

Need to speak by phone with DavidP, lost his number, can anyone help please? Come in DavidP, you are needed Thanks.

As Dnk says, measure along the bottom of the cam bearing saddles. ideally they should be in line within a couple of thou inch, but if it's been run a while like a banana and the cams haven't seized they have probably aligned themselves, albeit with some having a lot of clearance The head needs hardness testing to see if it's gone soft. I can do this. Don't waste time skimming a soft head, the gasket will just go again. It;s effectively scrap if it's soft. Stock gasket will be fine unless skimmed a LOT. Check for corrosion allowing coolant passages to have become enlarged and the gasket unable to seal them. Do the guides BY LINERING ONLY if it's off and usable, and the stem seals if you are keeping the thing long term. DO NOT replace the guides, you have been warned....

Throttle body probably worn, air leak somewher, or TB adjustment, which is tricky and time consuming. Also block off the PCV valve and see if it cures it, they can leak...Have fun, the issue can be expensive to fix if it's the TB, as most are now worn.

I replace loads of rusted brake lines with -3 stainless braided hose to stop having to drop the tank / subframe. But I retain stock or separate lines to the calipers due to routing issues. You will find no difference in pedal feel or travel with branded braided stainless Teflon lined hoses over steel lines.

Get proper adapters, I have seen some utter abortions that look like someone's first attempt at playing with electrics. That's if you MUST have LED's. I also get cars in with utter joke LED or other headlamp conversions that require smacking the headlamps every few miles. IMHO leave all this stock unless really well done to OE standards, you can @#*& up the looms in no time by adding gizmos.

It can be removed and replaced by a simple 30 Amp relay if you can't find a good used one. I have never had a problem with one so haven't had cause to try and effect a repair to the actual control unit. It uses PWM to control the fuel pump voltage to aid fuel heating and current consumption. It's probably quite a complex circuit.

The TRAC pump on UK / EU spec cars differentially applies the brakes to help control traction in association with throttle control.

Very hard, it has a robust spring inside it. You need a Mityvac pump and gauge to check it properly. they can and do seize up. The arm the rod goes to on the ceramic flap can break, or partially break, away. It's also adjustable... But don't fiddle with that just yet!!

Tracking a mile out, probably toeing out? Wrong offset wheels, silly size wheels and tyres? Could be a problem from the back end, also. Bushes in lower front wishbones could be shot. Should be easy enough to trace. On sensible rims and tyres the car shouldn't do this.

Probably the air sealant foam from around the heater matrix breaking down, wouldn't worry about it if the heater blows hot.

I'm still here, with two Supra TT's in for work, but I am tied up with stuff, partly due to the Chinese Virus and other things, so I have been negligent with forum posts. i haven't deviated over to Facebook however. I hope all are staying well and bering up in these trying times.

Thanks for taking the trouble to post that. It is where one would expect it to be entering the loom, but on this car it's certainly not there. I have offered to do a centre off switch and 2 relays to manually control the thing, I am not wanting to get into a loom change, that's for sure Thanks again, very kind of you, cheers.

There's a multi pin socket on about 2 inches of free loom factory taped up behind where the clock is, with a factory looking blanking cap on it, but no way would it reach the ecu, and connector is wrong anyway. Can't find anything else. Is there a short loom missing perhaps from this white socket to the spoiler ecu? Of course it also has a rat's nest of alarm and fancy stereo wiring hanging by insulting tape and hope to navigate through....

No, factory J Spec TT auto, will look again when I have calmed down.... Thanks Keron!

I have a Jap spec TT auto car in and the owner wants an active spoiler, that he's supplied, fitted. The spolier is on, and the plug under the right hand head lamp was there and is now plugged in, but I am damned if I can find the plug behind the centre console for the little spoiler ECU. Has anyone come across a car where it was missing? Thanks.

Thanks, I have sent you a PM

Surviving on bottled beers, but missing the social side. I usually take one or two dogs when I go to the pub, and they were young ones, so i am hoping when I venture back (soon....) they have maintained their good behaviour, adolescents can soon revert to being badly behaved in public places. The dogs certainly miss going out as much, I was talking on the phone to my pal and I asked if he had been to the pub yet. as soon as the P word was uttered they were wagging their tails and heading for the place their leads are kept. So I am not the only one here gasping Glad all is well and understand your concern for your wife. Stay safe. Seems China are already issuing vaccines to officials over there, if I were to don my tinfoil hat I would wonder if they intend beating everyone with a commercial product and what inside data they have on the Chinese Virus to be pretty sure they have a viable one.... This country, as well as many others, need to become more commercially independent again, even if costs rise. but I doubt once this is over if we / they will have learnt their lessons. It could even be like the previous coronavirus whereby it fizzles out making the commercial development costs unviable before the world sees a safe vaccine... the whole affair has been as much political as medical. And the statisticians have once again shown that they talk a lot of bull, like when they predicted election and referendum results

Yes, I am still around, avoiding the Chinese Virus and disappointing Shropshire landlords with my stay away from the pub philosophy at the moment You and yours OK Frank?

Thanks Frank, just let me know if you find it and we can sort something out, cheers and take care,.

I am looking for all the mounting brackets and rubber grommets for a stock SMIC and a stock plastic duct. I can arrange collection by courier after completed payment. Thanks. Please e-mail me at [email protected] if you have anything.

Remember folks, it's also the ducting. Toyota ducted it fully and exited the air into the very low pressure wheel arch region. 90% plus FMIC installations are not ducted, over half have a portion of the core useless and out of the frontal air stream. Air will flow the path of least resistance, if it can go around, instead of THROUGH the core, it will...

He needs two on the sides (intercoolers) then I can flog him another