Chris Wilson

Thanks for the photos, they do indeed help, cheers.

Sounds like the engine ecu may have succumbed to electrolyte from leaking capacitors damaging the board. I have tried various UK specialists claiming to be able to repair them, but none have. Being na you should find a good used one to try, then see if you can buy one to keep if it works. Have you checked for fault codes?? The above is best guess only, from symptoms. I am still going, very busy right now, but ring me if you like. 07971-952084

Thanks Keron / Big Supes. Seems something iwith this revamped forum s stopping me PM'ing you Big Supes but feel free to e-mail me direct with any "sensitive" info at [email protected] Many thanks all.

Whereabouts did UK dealers fit the Scorpion T5000 alarms standard on UK TT Supras, does anyone know please? I have a car in that all my usual external tricks to reset these alarms has failed on and I cannot start the vehicle. I need to jumper whatever it disables. Thanks.

There is a serious delay in getting new Bilsteins at the moment, I have several sets on order from months ago. I may have good used ones and some good used stock none Bilsteins, ring me on 07971-952084 if possible, or e-mail me please at [email protected] And thanks Annabella

I take payment on order as I have to pay up front, so they all went. They did do a single unit recently for me with not quite as much moaning as usual, leading me to think business is a little quieter at the moment, If you want a price fire me an e-mail please and I'll get a current price from them for one unit [email protected] Thanks.

I'll run the build past Giken on Monday and get a price and availability. Yes, I can fit it, thanks Simon.

My TT kit would be unhappy with that much torque, but a twin plate Giken would be fine, will rattle, will wear fast in street usage (traffic), and needs a Giken movement reversal kit. But all spares available and a top quality kit. There may be a big organic sprung plate kit available somewhere with no issues, but I haven't found one. The Yanks pass that much and more torque through organic clutches.

Yes, most come with 3/8 or 10mm pipe stubs ready to connect the PAS hoses to, just need some more high temp hose and some decent Jubilee clips. Dead simple, elegant and effective. Especially if the current rad is knackered or a cheap Ebay alloy one. Swampy, will e-mail tonight, been mad busy, interested in one of those ecu's for sure, thanks.

Thanks Swampy, PM sent.

I am after a known good stock, Jap spec automatic TT engine ecu. NOT a VVTi one. NOT a manual one. Not an N/A one please. If you have one to sell please let me know by direct e-mail at [email protected] Thanks.

It has similar internal volume to a stock side mount, but better flow, so if anything lag will decrease, and most definitely not INCREASE. These are made to order, with about an eight week lead time. Thanks. intercooler.zip

Nah, cable has been great, welder has packed up twice though and is showing signs of being a PITA again last time I used it (high frequency start seemed iffy....).

They are certainly not an outrageous size to be fair. But I would have concerns as to the make and model , especially in the wet, my experience of these is they are good ditch finders in the damp / wet.

borrow a set of wheels and tyres like the car was designed to run on (17 inch with the correct offset, and the correct width and profile tyres). If the issue disappears then whoever flogged you the rims and tyres sold you stuff unsuitable for the correct operation of the car. IMO the cars are horrible on 19 inch rims and tyres, manageable OK on 18 inch, very nice on 17 inch, and in difficult wet or slippery conditions and poor road surfaces, a dream on 16 inch. But appearance usurps practicality in many cases, hence the sweaty palm, whoooah, where's it going now feeling driving poorly modded cars and wallet damage and court time with exotic women, especially if you marry one

Lay the head gasket on the head, if the corrosion does not encroach under the gasket it will be OK. The crack(s) in the wastegate seat are typical, you will be hard pressed to find used turbos that are not cracked. That crack is not severe and won't affect the wastegate sealing. The crack(s) will get worse though... Now, take the old head gasket, find the rivets that hold the laminations together. You can clearly see one of them in your photo. Drill them all out and separate the gasket into its laminations. Clean them all in something like petrol or cellulose thinners. Examine them all, especially the inner ones, under a bright light, flexing them. You may find an inner laminate is cracked. Often going between cylinder bores. It's common on NA's, less so on TT's. Outwardly, before splitting the gasket, it can appear perfect, but a crack in an inner lamination can and does cause overheating and / or water loss. If the gasket seems OK, check the block face is not warped. If OK get the head pressure tested by someone who knows how to do it properly. I'd estimate 90% of places do it wrong and will miss cracks due to their poor test method. Bear in mind some cracks only show when the head is at operating temp. Pray you don't have a head like that.... Make SURE the rad cap has not lost its none return pintle valve. If in doubt fit a new genuine Toyota cap. DO NOT fit a high pressure one or the next thing is you will be taking the interior apart to fit a new heater matrix as the abnormal pressure will rupture the tired old thing.

Round the back of the head, are two steel pipes, going to rubber and back to steel, they feed the pressure vessel, one may be off, loose or split. With the engine in they are a nightmare to get at, you have to work by feel. Get some bandages ready for your grazed hands and wrists. have fun...

If the TB is worn and leaky blanking off the PCV valve can help reduce closed throttle air flow, but you need to vent the grommet in the cam cover to a pipe and catch tank as it will emit some oil droplets. I remove the PCV on all my long term car engines as inhaling its own fumes is bad for the engine, (although venting them to atmo could be said by the Greens as being bad for the environment. Your call on that...) The price of a new TB may help you decide though

It doesn't really HELP closure, the opposite in fact, it slows closure by adding resistance.

It should hold boost PRESSURE for operation of parts of the turbo control system during periods of engine operation under conditions of intake vacuum.

Thanks TRD-1, received it earlier, many thanks, that's a great help, cheers.

No, not as yet, do you have his number? Thanks.

You'd have to remove the casting it is inside, (exhaust mid section or second CAT off, first cat or decat pipe off, then difficult to reach nuts to drop the casting with the flap in from the turbos and you may need to remove remove the O2 sensor to clear the steering column shaft. I made a special spanner to remove the awkward nut. Risk of stud breaking, nuts seizing, personal injury, bad language, unexpected expenses.... I can't remember if the thing uses pressure or vacuum to open, but to test it you need to apply one or the other to the capsule. If 9PSI above atmospheric won't open it, or a vacuum of 22 inches Hg, it's stuck, or the actuator is knackered. Don't drop the flap part that can come out of the casting, it's ceramic, will shatter and is VERY VERY expensive if you need a new one. Tapping or prising at the thing will do terrible things to it as well... It's a sophisticated bit of kit.

That's the CAT overheat sensor in case someone puts leaded fuel in it. It's a simple K type thermocouple inside a metal probe and can be tied up out of the way, I usually drill the return flange on the chassis rail and tye wrap it up there, although you can stuff it behind the cat heat shield and hope for the best