Chris Wilson

I can't remember the colour codes, i just back probed them to see what went live, but i am guessing these instructions will apply, bearing in mind there are various types of ABS units fitted to different years and market Supras... The thing takes quite a lot of current so use decent sized wire and make sound connections or things will get hot fast! http://www.lextreme.com/forums/index.php?threads/bleeding-abs-and-trac-system.9358/

You are probably bleeding it too fast, press and release the pedal very slowly, close nipple before releasing pedal and open before pressiong again. the power terminals are the two biggest ones with heavy wires. OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY!!!!!! But i am 99% sure you won't need the pump running, nor the engine. I'll send the Mrs. round, she's a real bleeder.

VVti and none VVTi have different part numbers, I think the VVTi one is shorter in the top section due to the electronic throttle control stuff.

I think the VVTi ones are different, I will try and check that.

Just for future clarity i think you mean you over filled the expansion tank, not the radiator, which *should* remain full to the brim?

A friend made a good point re on line dating question forms and suggested that they should be less PC and more real world

Get some old ladders and you could have a great game with her

[h=1]Hampshire man who kept python died of asphyxiation[/h] Inquest opens into death of Dan Brandon, 31, who was a fan of exotic animals and was found dead with a snake in same room Source: https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2017/sep/25/man-found-dead-in-his-hampshire-home-near-pet-snake

Should we expect the Eiffel Tower lights to be extinguished tonight in sympathy? Nothing like doing your bit for entente cordiale Strike imminent. Are he and his motor feeing a bit rough about it?

Do you not find the hobby a bit constricting?

It will mean dropping the fuel tank to fit new hard pipes, which in itself is fraught with the risk of broken fasteners. If it's the pressure line you can replace from tank top unit to fuel filter with -6 Teflon lined braided stainless hose and proper compression fittings. No need to disturb the tank then.

If it's the pressure line to the rail that's leaking, and not the return from the regulator, I would NOT use rubber hose and clips!!

Look out for rust. If you don't find any, look harder

Has the clutch friction disc got damper springs in it? if not expect horrendous drive train noises, and the gearbox will have a real hard time as well. It would be nice if the propshaft had a stock rear U/J and the stock TT rubber doughnut, again for NVH and to cushion drivetrain shocks to the gearbox. You could weld stiffening ribs to the rather floppy looking rear g/box horizontal mounting plate.

No, the required spark energy to jump a given spark gap increases exponentially with cylinder pressure, so the coil has to charge to a higher level to reliably spark as boost rises. As RPM is also rising it has to attain that energy level faster, too....The real answers are mappable dwell time and Bosch Motorsport coils, that pack enough Joules to drop a horse, but really healthy stock coils, with the connector shells and contact terminations in good order will suffice in many cases.

Err, sorry Roger, you took a wrong turning, the MKIII Supras are through that door over there, by the pile of old head gaskets and warped heads, follow the steam....

These boys from Brazil ehh..... Such cards. Talking of cards, where my credit card, can't be dodgy, surely? Gotta have some of these beauties.

Its removal may make the box change gear harder, ask DavidP. The TRAC control (I believe) also softens gear shifts by magically taking control of the throttle valve during gear changes. But that aside the TRAC control is for traction control, so with your higher stall speed converter the engine will be able to do X RPM more than standard without the car moving. The stock ecu was never designed to accommodate or allow that, so it "thinks" the car has wheelspin, but without a wheel speed signal. in other words it doesn't know the hell has happened so it fails safe and limits the RPM, probably just via the traction control throttle valve in the throttle body, but possibly by altering other control functions. Basically you are feeding input parameters to the stock ecu it was never mapped to expect and it is seeing it as potential trouble. Removing the TRAC fuse crudely bypasses that aspect of its safety features. Aren't manual gearboxes with no electronic feedback wonderful? Or none electronically controlled auto ones

Sorry, you did say in the first post it had an Emanage on it. I would try taking out the TRAC fuse, as for the misfire it needs to go back on the rollers and have the AFR monitored, and the spark primaries and secondaries monitored on a scope, which will need either inductive pickup moved from coil pack to coil pack or the coils mounting remotely and using short leads to the plugs. Anything else will be hit and miss if you'll excuse the terrible pun. I'm assuming it's a proper 2JZ-GTE lump without a disi.

I can make a myriad guesses, but if you posted a video of just what it is doing with an audio explanation of what you are doing at the time they might be more accurate Have you removed the TRAC fuse? I am assuming a stock ecu? A stock ecu will be FAR from ideal with a different stall speed converter, but buying, installing and mapping a high end Syvecs or Motec to do things properly won't be cheap (will it Frank Bullet? )

I use ones from Think Automotive. I am not a fan of big torque through the MKIV auto box, although some seem to find reliability with DavidP modified boxes. No idea what torque the engines had that broke boxes, all were stock boxes with plenty of miles on them. Some were run by people with delusions of drag strip time slips that would have given the boxes a good old hammering..... I am reminded by these threads of an old friend of mine that specialises in race US V8's. he had an assortment of mangled engine internals in a display cabinet in his workshop with a prominent sign abov "Speed costs money, how fast can *YOU* afford to go" I think with a stock based auto box behind a single turbo 2JZ one has to accept that `boxes will be sacrificial. There'll be a mathematical torque versus animal abuse versus number of dead `boxes formula you may be about to witness

MaxSpeeding will do custom length rods, they are Chinese but they seem a decent quality. Arrow Precision and Carillo are other makers. Farndon Engineering also, if they are still going. Shop manual gives dimensions of stock rods.

Hi stall converters generate a huge amount of heat in the auto box fluid, so you need BIG coolers, which will then OVER cool in normal usage, or as normal as one of the things allows, so you also need a good quality thermostat. The stock ecu does not expect to see zero road speed and a higher than stock stall engine RPM when in Drive, so it tries to stop the revs increasing. Removing the TRAC fuse probably overcomes this. Auto box abuse is a costly hobby, my stash of dead auto boxes from behind single turbo 2JZ engines increases regularly. The feel good side of things is you keep DavidP in pain killers and fags

No, I had to give up when a more pressing matter occurred and I fitted a gold plated lid to the septic tank. AN fittings on the rad overflow indeed.....