Chris Wilson

No it definitely will not. You must use the correct crank gear. VVTi and none VVTi have totally different trigger patterns. be careful fitting VVTi ones, they are cast in one piece and brittle as hell. None VVTi ones really want some very neat TIG welding to make sure the crimped on star wheel can't come loose.

Buy the plug shells and the terminals then find someone with the correct (£300 +) crimp tool to fit the terminals to the loom. Hint, I have some expensive crimp tools sat next to me.... But your being in SA is a bit of a problem...

An ignition misfire can show as an overly rich mixture on an exhaust gas analyser, even when the fuelling is correct. This now needs taking to someone with proper diagnostic gear that knows how to use it rather than it looking smart in a workshop but no one has a clues as to how to use it effectively You could still be posting about this next year if it's some odd issue, and it could be diagnosed in a couple of hours with the right person and equipment. There's nothing special about a Supra, it works just like every other petrol engine out there

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52-Blade-Metric-Imperial-System-Screw-Pitch-55-60-Degree-Thread-Measuring-Gauge/401459663207?epid=24011329749&hash=item5d78dc5167 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150mm-6inch-Dial-Caliper-Vernier-Caliper-4Way-Gauge-Micrometer-0-1mm/112374537526?hash=item1a2a0b5d36:g:NFUAAOSw5VFWOtQ7 https://www.fullerfasteners.com/tech/basic-metric-thread-chart-m1-m100-2/

VVTi air boxes are different to none VVTI as the VVTi has the MAF sensor in the pipework to the turbo stuff.

If the chrome has pitted on the pistons you are best replacing them. Cheap replacement pistons are gold zinc irridited, or black zinc plated and it wears off leaving bare mild steel, so they rust far quicker than the OE chrome plated ones. For really long life you need stainless steel pistons. I can supply seal kits, stainless pistons, stainless pad pins and the special square shaped seals that go between the caliper halves when you split them to hone the bores. These square seals should NOT be reused! Toyota do not list them. I can supply stainless pistons for UK and Jap spec calipers, as well as for most any caliper off any car that I can have a sample piston for. If you bead blast do NOT allow blasting medium down the caliper half bolt threads. If even a tiny bit remains it will often lock the bolts up on reassembly, and the bolts are a very odd thread / grip length and not available. I can Helicoil mangled ones on a jig on the Bridgeport, and fit a slightly bigger diameter cap head bolts, but it's far better and cheaper not to bugger them up in the first place

What pad shape do they use? In other words do the calipers use a common pad outline giving a choice of manufacturers and compounds? Can you buy spare seals and pistons? How much if so? How much are replacement discs and bells, and bell fastening hardware? Thanks, I have been on here a long time and don't recall this brand being mentioned before. Is there a UK agent for them?

I can't beat Toyota dealers offering trade price to forum members on OE UK discs but I do offer OE spec Jap ones.

A plain disc is fine with modern pad compounds, a slotted disc used to help de-gas older compounds, and clean pad friction bonding compounds from the face of the pads, now they are more for style than substance on road cars. Internal vanes have a well established direction for hot air evacuation. I recommend stock or OEM style discs for 90% of applications

Such nice wheels, but such junk discs Keep the wheels and do the old flotation test on the discs.

Just curious as very few UK machine shops can correctly line bore and hone a big straight six block. I have seen some disastrous attempts, so always keen to find shops able to do this accurately!

I have VVTi one to rebuild, but it may need a matching three terminal plug splicing on to your loom, as the N/A connectors are sometimes differeent, would need a good photo of your connector or the alternator showing where the three pin plug engages. Beware Ebay ones, many are junk with the wrong amperage rectifiers fitted on a plug and pray basis.

I would say crank damper is de-laminating. Tipex test will confirm The PAS pump should work equally as hard in left and right turns, UNLESS there's n issue with the rack itself. Also check for tyre to dirt shields contact, especially with oversize wheels and tyres.

Who did you use to do the main cap line bore and honing and thrust face machining if you don't mind me asking? Looks a very nice build!

You could probably use a buffer amp and get a speed signal from a front ABS sensor, assuming you have ABS. or put a star wheel on the back of the propshaft and fit a Hall effect sesnor so you have a digital signal to work with. It all depends what the gizmo expects in terms of analogue or digital, and pulses per wheel rotation.

Faulty connector / wires to the alternator three terminal plug will cause this, as will a duff alternator. Is it chraging? Minimum circa 13.8 volts on the battery terminals with everything you can find turned on and 2000 RPM?

Have you checked if any fault codes are stored? As a wild stab in the dark as where to look I would check the gearbox loom and connectors, and look for any speed converter gizmos behind the dash hanging by a thread due to prior poor installation, but as I say, a wild stab at a sensible area to examine...

`Fraid not, I have never been privy to what goes on aboard the moderator's yacht

https://news.bauermedia.co.uk/pub/sf/FormLink?_ri_=X0Gzc2X%3DYQpglLjHJlTQGpiEzfG0Azb39SUgjqzaIUtudgczfSgoow1MoWUEzd9L6d5oatiYqmFWVXMtX%3DYQpglLjHJlTQGp7HzeI7zbEWrYJhRzegPS0zaFqBgsKjoNYzcJrzePnt7XSnXUOzaIs8jR&_ei_=EmTUOwa1ULmLxlBKi7CTndC1bT2mnZqnsbufL4GXuyg8b7ajADgyO4iNwZ4oLQ6g6jI6UJBiunzgHxPMKLEeRc1ILYMBvIzuBTEjlk0ZocAKBfMlf__QG_bm6jq0PNsykm_Y32CdUSHBVF2mvcBfQpea_fENCI5mc2R7-94x3KJ_NSQlosOS5QqGwWjobgwFL7xcbR_P19QXor_GqGul_GpwMzzqnWEs_jvUWWw-Ua0rSayXuTfKCqaZAK-OxPgfu-6hzhaFK_yC8M. Watch fabulously wealthy people buying fabulously expensive exotica! If the lottery comes up like a good `un it's the Sauber Mercedes C9 Group C car and the Maserati 3500GT for me What would you treat yourself to?

His ex Private Secretary Angus Sinclair comes across as a a bit of a Mr. Humphrey from "Are you being Served" and doesn't seem to exude the robust demeanour of an ex military man. But by breaching a none disclosure payment acceptance from circa 2010 he unfortunately joins the likes of American porn actresses and others similarly disposed to having their dignity bought, then coming back for another hand out aiety. Not that I am a fan of Bercow or his tawdry, legs akimbo wife, they are an embarrassment to the House and to this country. I am curious as to what legal redress is available to someone who pays a none disclosure fee to a person, who then reneges upon it and goes public?

Tappet clearance shimming and piston to valve contact are mutually exclusive. First check piston to valve clearance with very weak springs after shimming correctly on the bench, so you can push a valve down at various points before and after TDC and max valve opening with the head nipped down on an old gasket, and measure clearance with a DTI. Once you ascertain no piston pocketing is needed do a final head build with normal valve springs on the bench and bolt it on.

In theory it should hold pressure indefinitely, but osmosis and slightly imperfect pipe sealing will normally see them depleted overnight.

I would check that no dirt has gotten into the return port of the brake master cylinder by removing it, stripping it and washing in brake cleaner and blowing out with an air line.

If it were not for the braided lines I would suggest hose clamps or even carefully used Mole grips to clamp off a caliper flexi hose one at a time. That isolates each caliper hydraulically and you can see if a caliper, (and which one), has air in it. but braided hoses don't like being crushed fluid tight...