Chris Wilson

I have two brand new genuine Toyota pumps I want rid of.... Jury is out about front seal leakage after BPU. I usually find its excess blow by on tired high mileage engines that should have had a rebore and pistons before whanging more boost through a geriatric engine, but also these same engines will have excess internal clearances in the original oil pump. Compared to the similar style pump on the Nissan RB engines the oil drainage in front of the pump is woefully small on the 2JZ engines. My Tomei pump on my RB26 has near triple the drainage of the (good) drainage of the stock pumps. You can a bit more 2JZ drainage area by drilling the original drain hole oversize, but there isn't much meat to play with. And you can easily break a drill in the hole and get in a real pickle.

On big power and torque engines through a stock transmission designed for a lot less the losses can rise alarmingly, alongside the friction loss heat generated, so 22 to 25% is entirely possible on mega power engines on stock transmissions (including the rear axle and driveshafts, which if overloaded become less and less efficient as things distort). Engine dynos rule

Nurse, NURSE, quick, my pills and some water over here please! 35 bids, the country is going to hell in a hand cart

Sounds like the outer part of the crank damper has come off and hit the thermostat housing, leaving a shredded belt unable to drive the ancillaries properly. Has the outer diameter of the crank damper got ribs around its circumference to match the ribs on the inside of the belt, or is it smooth? If smooth the outer ring has flown off. it *MAY* be lying in the undertray. (That doesn't mean you can Sikaflex it back on, you know who you are....)

Can't beat the way a MKIV drives on 16 inch stock rims and decent tyres. If I bought another that's how it would be, in the wet they are unbeatable, the kinematics of the MKIV suspension don't suit low profile tyres IMO.

I'm not saying a none matching number ECU won't run the engine and auto box just fine, the variances may be absolutely trivial, but who knows, such info is rarely in the public domain, and even more rarely for imports.

I think not getting a matching part number is risky and sticking your neck out. Various senders and sensors changed over the years and probably they mated with a particular ECU part number. Could get weird problems with the wrong ecu even if the engine appeared to start and run OK.

The linings sometimes come off the shoes, especially if someone has driven with the handbrake left on, or does handbrake turns, then you get noise and binding. In fact i had a Volvo in that had the linings come un-bonded and the left rear locked up at 40 MPH and gave the driver a bit of a fright.

I don't think so, they are local to me. They certainly don't sound Scottish. The other car was sold a while back.

Not many 68,000 miler manual UK specs with one original owner from new I guess? Done hardly any miles in the last few years. The owner and his business partner walked into a main agents in their scruff, were reluctantly allowed a test drive and walked out having signed for a brand new one each. Black with cream leather, absolutely zero mods from new. Not many left as untouched and as low a mileage as this.

Stock ecu or after market????

Now don't you go using this here vehicle. Or the original oil will go black, the original petrol will get burnt, and God forbid a puncture, all that original air escaping....

M10 x 1.25mm pitch. Personally I would buy a stainless nut

No worries, but I much prefer direct e-mail to PM's. If you send me your direct mail I have a file here that may help with Toyota / Lexus connectors and shells.

The welds (use three or four of them) must be so placed and thin enough not to stop the sprocket seating fully and evenly against the step on the nose of the crank.TIG makes this a lot easier than MIG. Welding is far from vital, it's just a bit of insurance against a problem that sometimes arises.

The loadings on the TC to flex plate bolts are quite mild due to the large PCD of the converter bolt blocks. Especially when compared to the flywheel or flex plate to crank bolt loadings. But given the need for a short grip length and overall short bolt, buying OE ones is probably easiest.

They are M10 x 1.5mm pitch, and you need bolts with the shortest grip length (shoulder) you can find. The shoulder needs to protrude through the flex plate and just into the countersunk part in the tapped, welded on blocks on the TC. Too long a shoulder and the shoulder will bottom out before they are clamping the flex plate. Too short and there's a risk of the reduced thread size allowing flex plate to TC movement, although in theory the clamping is done by tension and friction. It is very good practice to use a shouldered bolt, as per the OE ones. I wrongly remembered them as metric fine, they are not, just the standard M10 coarse. HTH.

I have never mentioned gaskets There are two square section O rings between the caliper halves.

On track brake torture on most proper circuits is a lot less than repeated stops from 130 to roundabout manoeuvring speeds with little recovery time. You would need specialist compounds, specialist fluid like SRF and much improved cooling, maybe even water cooled calipers to meet such usage. Your definition of fast road goes beyond what most envisage I'd be more worried about my licence than the brakes Maniac!

Pad fade or fluid fade?

You don't need any codes, how did people diagnose engines before a management system threw up codes?? By basic checks on timing, fuelling, spark line and suchlike.

If I remember I'll try an M10 fine in a spare 2JZ-GTE TC I have in the workshop.

Raychem makes some beautiful tiny crimp connectors. Adhesive lined, but need a special crimping tool. I use them all the time, so much better than the standard size red ones, which are too bulky for many applications..

I don't think you can put the smaller ring and pinion in the bigger case, and you definitely can't put the bigger one in the small case...

Leave it overnight with the reservoir cap off. This allows air to migrate out. I see a lot of PAS issues on the MKIV these days and have gone to some trouble and expense working out their idiosyncrasies that occur in old age. I have also sourced a supply of new PAS pumps that are far cheaper than Toyota, but unlike the Ebay ones do not grind themselves to a paste most of the time, taking the rack with them. They DO need a minor pulley mod though, which I can do.