Chris Wilson

I'll tell you what the problem is. Expensive, yep, that's it, expensive One day auto owners will be grinning ear to ear as Getrags pop out of gear and crunch and whine, and their owners take out second mortgages still spouting "I couldn't possible have an auto in a sports GT car". Seriously though, doesn't sound good and pressing apart certain sections of the Getrag 6 speed are fraught with problems, even assuming that once it *IS* apart you can get all the bits needed to fix it up again.

A common issue is using a bigger throttle body and the issue is the car goes quicker as you release the throttle from fully open at certain less the wide open throttle settings dues to anomalies in air flow. it can be mapped out on DBW but really the TB is too big. They also have very un-progressive throttle action. Unless the stock TB is causing a pressure drop there absolutely no reason to change it. These anomalies are often worse on stock plenums with poor inter cylinder air distribution characteristics. It's a common problem and not just on 2JZ engines, it's common to most any engine. There's a lot of air flow research in stock plenums with a given TB size.

If the oil to water heat exchanger fins choke up oil will bypass the element and still circulate. Many oil filter have them as well in case the element collapses or chokes with dirt.

Sounds like you have somehow managed to wire the ignition and the fuel pump circuit together and the timer for the pump is holding the ignition live. Congratulations, that's a new one

Sounds very much like the starter contacts are burnt. Once the motor is off (10 minutes on a ramp, with the right sort of wobble impact socket and long, very long, wobble extension or ages and a trip to A & E for skin grafts if done on the floor), they are easily changed, I keep kits in stock. A multimeter and access to the starter terminals on the car is all that's needed to verify if this is the issue.

You'll find the tabs break off if you prise them back and try and re crimp them on fitting an intact header tank I may have a usable TT rad. As you are manual you can use either an auto or a manual rad. in fact an auto rad means you can use the inbuilt transmission cooler for the PAS when the bent bit of steel tube Toyota use for the PAS cooler corrodes through and starts leaking Otherwise just ignore it. I'll have a look later.

The TT had at least two different Denso MAP sensor part numbers, that is one of them.

Just remove the surround and boots and look if the whole box is moving or just the lever? I would imagine the whole box and engine is moving, can't think of anything that would cause the gear lever to move back and forth unless the synchro collar is moving which would suggest the box is due some major attention!

Put an illuminated endoscope in the hole and frighten yourself as to the condition of the inner sill panel.

Get yourself a little Massey Ferguson 35 like mine, you can get ANYTHING for it, and no colour choices to add confusion. Did you really think a BL product would give anything but grief? Plus it pulled a Range Rover out stuck in the mud in the field last year

If you mean the *auxiliary* belt tensioner then the rubber isolator in the pivot can fail and the arm will knock. Removing the auxiliary belt will show if this is the case. Even with a hot engine you can safely run it with the car stationary for a minute with no belt on at idle, or a quick rev. I am seeing a lot of these pivot bushings failing these days.

Engine in or out of car? Just swap heads or heads and ancillaries?

If the head physically fits as I believe it does one would then have to plumb an external oil feed to the VVTi solenoid, which I have done a few times on 2JZ VVTi heads on none VVTi 2JZ blocks

Only no tyre losses and a means of applying a constant load, not flash readings as from an inertia dyno, which are very flattering as the engine can't stabilise. Any dyno is only as good and honest as its operator. Some are like statisticians and can supply any figures you may wish to see... My Skyline was sold to me with 430 BHP at the rear wheels read out from a rolling road dyno. I had the chance to nail it on an engine dyno before I started work on it and it was actually 305 from memory at the FLYWHEEL and after a few tweaks to the map to get the top end fuelling and timing something like Well under 300 "as was" and likely to fail on a circuit. Engine dynos can cause some disappointment!

The only way to find out is test the engine and ancillaries on their own on a decent engine dyno, then re-test in the vehicle on a hub dyno. A drum type dyno will show higher losses still as road tyres have a considerable power absorption when transmitting a lot of torque, less so at cruise.

There has to be side and tip clearance in any gear rotor type pump and as such leakage is inevitable. If the crank didn't have to protrude THROUGH the pump it could have a sealed end plate an any escaping oil would descend naturally directly into the sump. Pesky crank drives and dampers ehh? But basically that drain hole was ill conceived in its sizing.

Having seen several engines run with transparent sumps I can say even at idling and modest RPM it's a maelstrom in there and oil is *EVERYWHERE* Oil is thrown and centrifuged to an amazing degree, sump baffling helps a little, a dry sump helps a LOT! If the side and tip clearance on the oil pump has increased through wear a significant volume of oil will escape, that from the front face of the pump where the crank nose protrudes from it can only get away via the drain. if the voulme is such the drain hole cannot cope pressure builds, and a single lip seal, especially on a worn crank nose (actually the oil pump drive splines are separate, but effectively the crank nose), will start to leak. if enough pressure builds it can be pushed physically forward into the timing star disc. But excess blow by may also cause crankcase pressurisation, which alone or in tandem will add to the possibility of failure of the seal. A worn engine will exhibit both to some degree. A lot of cam cover breather volume will help with crankcase pressure build up. A definitive test would be to measure any pressure in front of the pump, but it would be tricky. I am sure it COULD be done if someone was keen enough to try.

Probably just the style of the casting making a hole running vertically impossible or costly. Dunno basically

If Toyota had not chosen to use an odd sized seal the possibility to use a double lipped one would be available. If there was more room around the front of the pump housing it could be vented direct to the crankcase bypassing the piddlingly small drain hole. In the third image here you can see the three large drains on the Tomei RB-26 pump https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOMEI-OVERSIZE-OIL-PUMP-for-NISSAN-GTR-SKYLINE-BNR32-BCNR33-BNR34-RB26DETT-/201591609618 and here you can see the slots that aid draining in front of the seal. Compare to the tiny drain on the 2JZ pumps... https://www.google.com/search?q=Tomei+oil+pump%5B+RB26&lr=&hl=en-GB&as_qdr=all&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjr4Pe85t_bAhVIBsAKHZk6D-0QsAQIkgE&biw=1440&bih=776#imgrc=f66R0X9NQFzQbM:

A cheap low pressure gauge or home made manometer on the dipstick tube will tell you if crankcase pressure may be an issue. Looking for oil under any pressure in the void in front of the seal is trickier, but may be possible with some small fitting and a fine bore tube, never really checked that possibility out.

Another thought is excess crank end float will cause a seal to ride up and down any wear ridge on the crank and cause leakage. It would be interesting to compare front seal leakage against manual and auto transmission cars, especially manuals with a high spring pressure clutch fitted, or a poor fitment with no free play, that gives the thrust bearings some grief. I find my high tension front seals work in cases where even a brand new stock one leaks, but of course it's a crutch, but it's a relatively cheap one! Raising the boost on a none rebuilt 20 year old engine is akin to putting Grandad on steroids and Viagra and dropping him at the local knocking shop with a grand in cash. Great fun, but the potential for an early, if rapturous demise is high.

Check the caliper pistons are retracting after a hard brake application with the engine running to give servo assist, with the front wheels off the ground. If the wheels do not rotate very freely due to brake bind the pistons are not free enough for the deliberately shaped seal recesses in the caliper bores to retract the pistons from the pads a few thousandths of an inch. This will cause uneven piston pressures on the disc which in turn causes "strange things" to occur. The seal grooves DO NOT have a flat bottom, the bottom of the grooves are chamfered at an angle to deform the seals in brake application and their hysteresis should retract the pistons a tad when the brakes are released. Get someone to watch the front tyres and wheels within the front arches when you hit the brakes hard at a fast walking pace. If they move back more than a bit in the arches the wishbone bushes are shot, and any brake imbalance or slight (and normal...) frictional changes between pads and discs will start an oscillation (judder) at certain speeds. Older BMW's were notorious for this due to bush wear.

Another thing that can cause front brake judder is tired inner wishbone bushes or a tired bottom ball joint. Mainly the former.

I see hub flanges warped from ill fitting wheels being overtightened. If the hub flange has run out then so has the disc. As stated above, a DTI on the disc and then on the flange will tell the tale. The hub flange can be trued uo in a lathe, but it's a bit of a PITA, i would recommend getting a new one if one or more have warped. Discs can be surface ground back to true.