Chris Wilson

Should all be in the software. Syvecs can do *ANYTHING* or so I am told Dual cam sensors may be a bit more complex to set up.

If it's somewhere dry just leave it as is, with battery disconnected. I have bought classic cars that have fired up on 20 year old plus fuel. 2 years is nothing. No need or point in axle stands, just bung 45 PSI in the tyres.

I am just guessing but as the LED's draw far less current than incandescent bulbs the designer may have added a loading resistor to fool any light out warning.

I have one brand new OE one in stock. just used for flow testing and making the patterns for my uprated one, which seem too expensive until there are no more OE ones anywhere at all. the Ebay ones are lousy, too small, nothing like the same number of tubes and very poor heat output as a result. fitting one is a nightmare, do it right first time!!

Should be the same as a Motec, just input the teeth pattern and the offset to the cam sensors, then trim with a timing light..

I now keep these in stock, e-mail me please. they now have started to leak and should be renewed when changing a cam belt or when the belt is off for other work. I also now stock the little brake hose clips that sit BELOW the body tabs, that normally only come with new OE rubber hoses, as well as the horseshoe shaped top clips.

Has anyone go the Toyota part number for the smaller clip that holds stock or braided hoses into the chassis tab? I see the part number for the U shaped clips but not for the other smaller dished one that sits on the other (lower) side of the tabs. i am hoping you don't have to get a new stock flexi hose to get those.... Thanks

I may have one, are you still looking for this? Reply by direct e-mail please.

When the PAS pump loads up the valve opens and allows air to be bled into the plenum from in front of the throttle valve. I rebuild PAS pumps and supply new ones at a good price. I have a source for none Toyota ones that work well, unlike those on ebay that disintegrate internally more often than not, (but given their price it's probably not surprising.... )

At the very least you should run the same compound pads front and rear, if the stock pads have more bite than the hawks on the front this may cause the problem. But the ABS **SHOULD** stop the rears locking up. You can self diagnose the ABS using the dash lights. I would self test the ABS, free the calipoers and sliders on the rewar and fit the same compound pads all round and go from there.

How do?! Good to see you back, Texas ehh? Concealed carry Big hats! Oil baron widows!

Brings back memories, we had a Sopwith propeller on the wall in my old scholl's history room. I remember plotting if it could be liberated at one stage, for my bedroom wall

A fuel pressure gauge plumbed into the rail feed should show rail pressure being held for at least an few hours after switching a hot engine off. If it doesn't it's probably because an injector is leaking. An injector test on all six sounds like a good idea though, off the car. A leaky injector can do two things. Deplete line pressure that takes a while to build again when starting. leaves a lot of fuel in one cylinder confusing the ECU and O2 sensor(s) on cold start.

Just think of the head as a rectangular block of aluminium alloy. Bottom face should be dead flat. Top face is machined with "semi circles" for the cams to sit in and turn, with bolted on caps to allow the cams removal. If the bottom face warps almost certainly the top does too, taking the once perfectly straight and true alignment of the cam bearings out of kilter with it. A cast chilled iron cam doesn't take kindly to be pulled banana shaped then rotated rapidly! If it doesn't break it will wear the journals in the head and itself to become free again, leading to greatly enlarged clearances, abrasive alloy powder in the oil (fine enough to pass through an oil filter) and loss of oil pressure due to excessive cam to cam journal bore clearances.

The 3 most critical concerns once the head is off is how warped it is, and in particular, how much have the cam bearing saddles moved? Whilst you COULD have the caps dropped and be line bored it would cost more than a good used head, maybe even more than a new casting. The other deciding factor is has the head got hot enough for the alloy to have softened? I have three heads here which have all gone soft and failed a Brinell hardness test. Finally, head wise, check all waterway openings for corrosion that may have opened them up beyond the head gasket coverage. Running with anti freeze with its inbuilt corrosion inhibitors can quickly erode the waterways in the head. The 2JZ head gaskets can fail in an unusual way and if they don't know what to look for the may think it's OK. You must also check the head face of the engine block to see if that too has warped. Nothing here is unique to this engine, just normal competent practice if an engine has suffered head gasket failure. If they just slap a new gasket on you may well find it fails again. Whilst the head is off now is a good time to have the guides and valve seats done....

This car went back to its owner today and will almost certainly be for sale shortly. I think one of his sons is a member here and will post up an advert. Just seen your post Tyson, I will PM the reg to you. It's a private plate and will not be staying with the car.

Given the steering rack input shaft location, the need to be as near the first de-cat pipe upper flange, and the need for it to have its operative end pointing down I would imagine Einstein need not be exhumed to give him advice Bonnet side of 1st de-cat pipe, as near the top flange as possible, clearance for the sensor and its boot and cabling will give little room for experimentation. Fiddling about with the sensor and wiring and a felt tip pen will show him possible locations and angles for the sensor's boss.

That may not be the case at all if suitable precautions are taken in a timely manner, like *NOW* Leaving water in the bores for days will likely give serious issues though. if the coolant has a good dose of antifreeze in it the corrosion inhibitors in it will help greatly until it's drained as above.

Sounds like the oil feeds or oil drains to the turbos, assuming stock twin sequential set up is the probable cause.

It needs to be much nearer the ports to react quickly. It also needs to point DOWN slightly to stop exhaust water content sitting in it. If it's de-catted put it in the front de-cat pipe as near the engine as physically possible.

If it is coolant loss into the cylinders be very aware that this will cause bore and piston ring corrosion. The way to defer this is to drain all water out and then run the engine at a fast idle for 3 minutes. This will dry out the bores and in theory no more coolant can migrate in. To be more sure you can then remove all spark plugs and put two tablespoons of engine oil down each plug hole and spin over on the starter for a few seconds. Reinsert and tighten the plugs, this will give protection until water is added again or you can resolve the situation. A sniffer test using a gas analyser like used for the MOT or a dye test will likely show if head gasket failure has occurred. I can do either, some MOT stations are coy about alternative uses for their 4 gas analysers...

Yes, they are a good bit heavier. Given the thing has two doors and no roof (even with the Aerotop panel in place it's nothing like as solid a roof structure as the Coupe), 90% plus of the rigidity in bend and twist has to come from the sills and floor pan between the front and back of the door apertures. Without the Aerotop in place that small region has to hold all bending and twisting forces.

The Aerotops are as floppy as a wet paper bag, plus in a big shunt I would NOT want to be in a 5 sided box.

More here if you are into that sort of thing: http://www.foxnews.com/auto/2018/07/07/toyota-supra-nascar-xfinity-series-car-confirmed-for-2019.html

Good to see public money and court time being spent so usefully and wisely.... What a farce!