Chris Wilson

I see a lot of "SD" (silicone death) where excessive silicone instant gasket sealant has broken free internally and choked the oil pump pick up strainer, on all sorts of different engines. People seem to think more is better and less likely to allow leaks, whereas more is death to engines in reality

New OE pumps have a heavy oil in them so they should prime "as is" but it's good practice to pour some oil into them before fitting and prime the engine oil galleries from an external pump. Crank over with no plugs in until the oil pressure light is extinguished for a good few seconds. I still see a few 2JZ's with a lot of carbonized oil them. Either cheap oil, overheated oil or just plain lack of oil changes, but nothing like the old CVH Fords when they first went to the abortion called PCV valves and oil technology was lagging behind for the average user. Some literally had the cam box solidly packed with carbonized oil and you had to literally dig it out to find the bolts....

I would not give a fixed price as any internal damage is as yet unknown, but a proper rebuild with new pistons and a rebore, assuming the crank and rods are fine and the head doesn't need the guides linering would be at least 5K assuming you were not to just bring me the engine out of the car. Anyone giving a fixed price sight unseen is either naieve or very brave If the crank is marked up I have some excellent used ones here. It's not just the engine rebuild it's all the stuff that SHOULD be replaced alongside the rebuild to ensure reliability... Do it once and do it right I also have new OE pumps in stock.

This, get hard pipe on and move the flexi hoses away from the turbine housing, use the stock turbos as an example of how far away they need to be, but at least a few inches.

If an engine (petrol) goes to full rpm with no throttle pedal depressed it is either the throttle plate stuck somewhat open or a massive air leak on the engine side of the throttle valve, assuming it's not a fly by wire (VVTi).

Filter in the reservoir could be choked up, jets bunged up or the pump is plain tired.

Are they fire proof?

Lots, you need to look at the parts diagram, but well over £300 new. Always keep the old bit so you v=can revert to a pull clutch...

Did you run it with the auxillary belt off (no more than 4 minutes at idle with a cold engine start)? It sounds to be like a typical belt tensioner arm rubber bushing broken up I see this a lot these days.

Building another power station is only a part of the requirement, the infrastructure to distribute this power to homes and workplaces, often in remote areas will cost a fortune. Such costs will have to be met by the consumer, making it unlikely to occur. i think battery technology is woefully inadequate for mass usage of electric vehicles at this moment. Possibly hydrogen fuel cells could work but for whatever reason interest seems to have waned in the technology. maybe Tesla can work on a marijuana fuel cell?

I suppose it's OK as GP's no longer make house calls, so it being in the dealership or on a trailer won't matter so much

Tesla S rated most unreliable car in the UK was what greeted me in this morning's paper. Can't buy parts from Tesla, they won't release service information, and they won't warranty new cars used for commercial purposes. Apparently they will also not release update info on cars they sell as selected used examples, so you have no paperwork to show if the myriad of "fixes" have been carried out whilst under warranty. And the company's owner seems to be going crackers... These things will be worth zilch when out of warranty. This You Tube video makes interesting viewing what a POS these things are!

I wonder how much a new battery is? No doubt couched in some lease waffle, but eventually someone will need to actually buy one in the conventional manner. Do you get charged to get rid of the old one? What are the procedures to scrap a damaged Tesla? How much are the water cooled control and charging modules?

Just looked what a fully specced Tesla X weighs. TWO AND A HALF TONNES. Bleedin' ridiculous. Not that a Nissan Leaf is any less ludicrous at 6.5kW charge current. Just like leaving a high power shower on full whack all night. The national grid is groaning as it is, if these POS become commonplace the grid will need uprating 100% Guess who'll pay for that...? When you can store the equivalent electrical energy of a gallon of petrol or diesel in a container of the same size, weight and cost, things may become more sensible to those who are not ardent and blinkered Greens

3000 US gallons of water and up to 24 hours to extinguish a full vehicle fire when the battery pack ignites! The UK sees 10.000 vehicle fires per annum, on average.. From the first responder / fire fighter notes from Tesla USA: FIREFIGHTING USE WATER TO FIGHT A HIGH VOLTAGE BATTERY FIRE. If the battery catches fire, is exposed to high heat, or is generating heat or gases, use large amounts of water to cool the battery. It can take approximately 3,000 gallons of water, applied directly to the battery, to fully extinguish and cool down a battery fire; always establish or request an additional water supply. If water is not immediately available, use dry chemicals, CO2, foam, or another typical fire-extinguishing agent to fight the fire until water is available. Extinguish small fires that do not involve the high voltage battery using typical vehicle firefighting procedures. During overhaul, do not make contact with any high voltage components. Always use insulated tools for overhaul. Heat and flames can compromise airbag inflators, stored gas inflation cylinders, gas struts, and other components which can result in an unexpected explosion. Perform an adequate knock down before entering a hot zone. Battery fires can take up to 24 hours to extinguish. Consider allowing the battery to burn while protecting exposures. After all fire and smoke has visibly subsided, a thermal imaging camera can be used to actively measure the temperature of the high voltage battery and monitor the trend of heating or cooling. There must not be fire, smoke, or heating present in the high voltage battery for at least one hour before the vehicle can be released to second responders (such as law enforcement, vehicle transporters, etc.). The battery must be completely cooled before releasing the vehicle to second responders or otherwise leaving the incident. Always advise second responders that there is a risk of battery re-ignition. Due to potential re-ignition, a Model S that has been involved in a submersion, fire, or a collision that has compromised the high voltage battery should be stored in an open area at least 50 ft (15 m) from any exposure. Warning: When fire is involved, consider the entire vehicle energized. Always wear full PPE, including a SCBA. HIGH VOLTAGE BATTERY - FIRE DAMAGE A burning or heated battery releases toxic vapors. These vapors may include volatile organic compounds, hydrogen gas, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, soot, particulates containing oxides of nickel, aluminum, lithium, copper, cobalt, and hydrogen fluoride. Responders should always protect themselves with full PPE, including a SCBA, and take appropriate measures to protect civilians downwind from the incident. Use fog streams or positive-pressure ventilation fans (PPV) to direct smoke and vapors. The high voltage battery consists of lithium-ion cells. These cells are considered dry cells. If damaged, only a small amount of fluid can leak. Lithium-ion battery fluid is clear in color. The high voltage battery, charge controller(s), DC-DC converter, and drive unit(s) are liquid cooled with a typical glycol-based automotive coolant. If damaged, this blue coolant can leak out of the high voltage battery. A damaged high voltage battery can create rapid heating of the battery cells. If you notice smoke coming from the high voltage battery, assume that it is heating and take appropriate action as described in Firefighting on page 22

Sorry, no, I don't know Paul. You could ask the mods for contact info, but God knows where they stand these days with legal stuff Ask in the subject of a message in Supra Chat if anyone knows paul mac perhaps?

Paul last posted on the forum in February I think.

A good guy who knows how to use an oscilloscope could isolate this issue in minutes, but I would check the grounding and connections to the igniter pack, and renew the actual coil pack TERMINALS (not just the plastic shells), the terminals are available from Toyota with pre crimped short wire tails. Do a PROPER job of crimping them to the engine loom with a proper set of glue lined heat shrink barrel crimps from the likes of Raychem, crimped with the correct crimping pliers.

The top arms have Rose the joints in them, not rubber bushes, the rear suspension is a big compromise as the top and bottom wishbones are too close together in an ideal world, but Toyota had to offset ideal suspension kinematics against a usable rear load space. Being so close together any wear at all in the arm bushings is magnified in serious toe change under acceleration and decelleration. I suggest the issues are down to to arm wear, lower arm bush wear, or set up, as in not being taken from the physical centre line of the front and rear subframes. Sometimes the old fashioned find the C/L by physical measurement and stringing the car up from that is the best Some of the none genuine arms are total junk. Poly bushes in ill considered places put massive mechanical stresses on arms and subframes.

The stock reservoir has sophisticated and complex anti swirl and de-aeration within it, as well as basic filtration, i doubt the alloy thing has any of that, it will almost certainly make your issues worse or even affect the functionality of the PAS. Get a decent cooler on the stock reservoir system, assuming the stock one isn't choked up inside. The cleanest way to add a PAS cooler on a manual car is fit an auto rad and use the auto box cooler in the bottom tank for PAS cooling.

I should be a mechanic, and give up the film director work, especially after what's happened to poor old Harvey...

Is there any danger that the pipes to the master cylinder are swapped over? Or from the ABS unit to the calipers? Are the tyres all the same make and model and of sensible sizes?

Something bad has happened inside, that's not right. Never stripped one, but worth a look to see if it can be fixed.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en-GB&as_q=motec+video+crank+angle&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all&as_sitesearch=&as_occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&as_rights=