Chris Wilson

One of my 2.5 inch second decat pipes for J-Spec TT, both VVTi and none VVTi. £75 plus postage at cost. Used but excellent undamaged condition.

He's no slouch on 4 wheels is he? And he's a left foot braker, like me

Ah! A Donald J Trump thread, I'll have to visit this later Quite appropriate as a customer last week saw a MAGA hat on my bench and asked whose it was. I said it was mine, my wife bought if for me. " Well he said, it doesn't give a very good impression of the sort of person working on my car". I was a bit miffed so had to reply, "If we are judging each other by our personal belongings I wonder what the nodding dog on your parcel shelf says about you?"

It uses a multi layer PCB on the original board (Being a Blitz ECU it also has the additional daughter board inside the case). The electrolyte from leaking capacitors eats the copper tracks and if it has managed to get inside the PCB material it may have eaten any internal copper tracks and is probably FUBAR. If you end up sending it to a "specialist" for repair ask them if they have a test setup to check it all then works. I have yet to find anyone in the UK that has made one, but happy to be proved wrong. Most just effectively tell you to "try it".

Are you trying to find a boost leak in the turbos outlets through intercooler to plenum, or a leak in the vacuum / pressure control plumbing? Do you have an air compressor?

Genuine Toyota crank damper / pulley. Fitted to a built engine and run for literally a few hours, then the customer decided to fit an aftermarket Fluidampr. £85 plus postage at cost or collect north Shropshire. Now sold, thanks.

You can say that again Dunk, it's spread over the day to make it less of a chore if it's persisting down. Do you still have that lovely restored Range Rover?Was it your sister who had the historic racing Alfa?

Thanks Dunk! Good to see you are still around on here, all the best.

Thank you, all the best!

They're still here, somewhere. How much would you pay for them....? Happy Christmas, l'll dig`em out in the New Year, no worries

Not been very active here as I am now semi retired, but still doing some Supra work as time permits. Still have bespoke stuff going all over the world. India yesterday for example. I may sell my stock of used Supra parts in 2025, if so I will let you know on here. In retirement I am throwing myself into my other love away from cars and racing. DOGS! With the current kennels here holding 16 of mine I thought I'd do a little video with some semi risque backing for you lot. There's at least four of the whatsists missing in the video, done on my ancient phone, but Happy Christmas to you all Too big to attach, go here: http://www.chriswilson.tv/happy-christmas.mp4 Maybe the audio is not work safe if you have sad bosses

You also need the UK 4 pot brake discs, too. Toyota and probably others do the pad anti rattle clips for the 2 pot calipers, but personally I like pads to move about as it reduces the chance of them seizing up. The slider holes in the caliper rackets may be won, that can cause a knock, check the slider pins have their anti rattle square section o RINGS ON THEM STILL.

Don't forget that wheel's seat belt....

Hi Dunk, good choice, they should look well!

Probably over 90% of aftermarket alloy wheels are naff quality, cast from material with inclusions, heavy and often almost impossible to balance due to run out or other seriously defective machining issues. Paying a premium doesn't even guarantee quality these days with so many different manufacturers in the game.

There's a sine to square wave converter module on the back of the speedo housing which can play up, it can cause this issue (especially if it's bypassed with a speedo or top speed delimiter conversion, but that usually manifests itself straight away. The only test is to look at the input to it and the output from it with a two channel oscilloscope, whilst the car is driven. A logging scope or a helper is needed unless you feel confident driving and reading a scope... I have a home for dead ecu#s here and have stopped driving myself crazy with finding good ones. NO ONE over here has proven to be able to reliably fix AND THEN test them, although there's a place in the US that some customers have used successfully.

Borrow a TRAC ecu from a known good car and see if that fixes it, I see a lot of duff TRAC and engine control ecu's these days, finding a good one is a nightmare. Doing all the tests to show if the car has other issues causing the light to flash takes ages, so best to check if it;s the ecu's first.

Will prices go any higher or should I get rid of it now are the figures that REALLY matter

Loads (pardon the pun) of stuff on conrod failure modes available on line, from simple to highly technical 3D stress analysis: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/preventing-connecting-rod-failures/

Make sure your standalone ecu is able to resolve a sine wave signal, which is what the stock sensors output, and not in need of a square wave which a lot of more moderns abs sensors output. It's possible to convert the sine wave to a square wave if needed.

It's RPM that kills rods assuming they are of decent design and material for the job at hand. The major strain on a rod and rod bolts is at the top of its travel as the piston tries to exit the bore.

Still around, still do them, and for the J-Spec set up, as well as for many other makes of car and models. [email protected] will find me

Syvecs ECU's can have diagnostics and sensor outputs et cetera read via the LAN cable that you connect the ecu to your PC with. You can download the Syvecs software for free and have a play with it yourself. Same with MOTEC and probably most of the others.

Thanks, I think he's already been in touch, but anyone can ring me, too. 07971*952084

Thanks for the photos, they do indeed help, cheers.