Chris Wilson

You can say that again Dunk, it's spread over the day to make it less of a chore if it's persisting down. Do you still have that lovely restored Range Rover?Was it your sister who had the historic racing Alfa?

Thanks Dunk! Good to see you are still around on here, all the best.

Thank you, all the best!

They're still here, somewhere. How much would you pay for them....? Happy Christmas, l'll dig`em out in the New Year, no worries

Not been very active here as I am now semi retired, but still doing some Supra work as time permits. Still have bespoke stuff going all over the world. India yesterday for example. I may sell my stock of used Supra parts in 2025, if so I will let you know on here. In retirement I am throwing myself into my other love away from cars and racing. DOGS! With the current kennels here holding 16 of mine I thought I'd do a little video with some semi risque backing for you lot. There's at least four of the whatsists missing in the video, done on my ancient phone, but Happy Christmas to you all Too big to attach, go here: http://www.chriswilson.tv/happy-christmas.mp4 Maybe the audio is not work safe if you have sad bosses

You also need the UK 4 pot brake discs, too. Toyota and probably others do the pad anti rattle clips for the 2 pot calipers, but personally I like pads to move about as it reduces the chance of them seizing up. The slider holes in the caliper rackets may be won, that can cause a knock, check the slider pins have their anti rattle square section o RINGS ON THEM STILL.

Don't forget that wheel's seat belt....

Hi Dunk, good choice, they should look well!

Probably over 90% of aftermarket alloy wheels are naff quality, cast from material with inclusions, heavy and often almost impossible to balance due to run out or other seriously defective machining issues. Paying a premium doesn't even guarantee quality these days with so many different manufacturers in the game.

There's a sine to square wave converter module on the back of the speedo housing which can play up, it can cause this issue (especially if it's bypassed with a speedo or top speed delimiter conversion, but that usually manifests itself straight away. The only test is to look at the input to it and the output from it with a two channel oscilloscope, whilst the car is driven. A logging scope or a helper is needed unless you feel confident driving and reading a scope... I have a home for dead ecu#s here and have stopped driving myself crazy with finding good ones. NO ONE over here has proven to be able to reliably fix AND THEN test them, although there's a place in the US that some customers have used successfully.

Borrow a TRAC ecu from a known good car and see if that fixes it, I see a lot of duff TRAC and engine control ecu's these days, finding a good one is a nightmare. Doing all the tests to show if the car has other issues causing the light to flash takes ages, so best to check if it;s the ecu's first.

Will prices go any higher or should I get rid of it now are the figures that REALLY matter

Loads (pardon the pun) of stuff on conrod failure modes available on line, from simple to highly technical 3D stress analysis: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/03/preventing-connecting-rod-failures/

Make sure your standalone ecu is able to resolve a sine wave signal, which is what the stock sensors output, and not in need of a square wave which a lot of more moderns abs sensors output. It's possible to convert the sine wave to a square wave if needed.

It's RPM that kills rods assuming they are of decent design and material for the job at hand. The major strain on a rod and rod bolts is at the top of its travel as the piston tries to exit the bore.