Delboy52

In a few days if it hasn't gone I'll probably have this exhaust off you. First I've gotta spend on my Celica to get it through the MOT..

Your drive looks quite wide, can you not get 2 on one side by parking them diagonally? That's how I do it on mine.

Metal Monkey provide fitting instructions for the dial faces. It's a bit fiddly. It does mean popping the tacho needle and speed needle off. Re-seating them was a bit of trial and error for me as I lost the resting position of the needle. Before the engine was on, my tacho needle jumped to 500rpm as soon as it got power and 30mph on the speedo. All sorted now and they do look good. I have the same steel finish as SPG-26, only in electric blue. LEDs are straight replacement as they usually come with a built in resistor to match the bulbs they replace.

That's the name and data from the Dupont website. I guess they go with what Toyota come up with

That sealent is really tough stuff, and it cools fast becoming hard again. When putting the lenses back on I assume you just reverse the same process to open them? 80 degrees C for 10 minutes then push the lenses back into place? I'm not looking forward to this bit. I've refurbished my facelift inserts with the original colour as the paint was bubbling near the fog light. Was some kind of reaction when manufatured. But the masking tape used to protect the chrome rings from overspray has pulled some of the chrome away on the inside of the largest ring. Now I have to spray those with chrome spray. Maybe it will look even better with a fresh blow over of chrome spray.

Alright, managed to find the paint code for the facelift headlight inserts. Manufacturer : TOYOTA Code : 1A1 Colour name : DARK BROWNISH GREY Stock code : L9991 Alt. : 0 Color Change : Quality : CROMAX Coat : 2 COAT Finish type : Gloss PB : VS : vs7 Standard Date : 16/02/1993 Formulation Date : 27/01/1997 Take that code to Halfords or any shop that can mix paint and you'll have the original colour.

I've got facelift headlights on my pre-facelift car so I don't need to splice the red wire into the solid green wire of the dome side light. What I've done instead is merge the 2 wires that used to go to the dome sidelight with the solid green wire coming from the new facelift side light. Now I'm blowing my tail/sidelight fuse and I'm not sure how I should wire this differently. edit: Got it working. Only the original solid green wire from the dome sidelight connects to the solid green on the facelift side light. The sidelight already has a negative path spliced into the facelift loom so the old black wire that went into the original dome sidelight just needs blanking off.

It's easier to imagine the Lexus Lady being in her passenger seat eating burger and chips while her car ploughed through everyone and everything else the way this ended up.

Looks and sounds like the kind of thing I'm looking for..

Just opened up my facelift lights as the inserts have a bubbling paint defect under both fog lights and there is tiny bits of glass in the enclosure. Seems like a bulb exploded at some point in the past.. Anyway, I put the inserts up against Toyota Decuma Grey and it is not the same. Inserts are darker with what looks like more bronze. Found this on Supra forums when hunting for a paint code: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?225703-Paint-code-for-97-98-painted-headlights "under the 98 Toyota Dupont colors for trim there is several colors but none are called charcoal they just have difent shades of gray. from darkest to lightest and the lightest is real close to a silver Note these are all Metalic Drk Gray Met # UC156 Microfiche # L8647 Drk Gray Met # UC1A45 Microfiche # L9708 Medium Gray Met # UCA76 Microfiche # F1114 Gray Met # UCA75 Microfiche # F1113 the non Metalic codes used mainly for underhood are: Black 202 Microfiche #F0220 Off Black # 930B Microfiche # F2805 (what I would use for Inside of Lights) Gray 4N7B Microfiche # F3779 Is they ask their Dupot Numbers Like I stated I hope this helps some Off black looks the best for the inside of the lights. My opinion"

Does it follow the exhaust path under the car or is it straight? Also, generally is the exhaust fitment the same for an NA and TT?

That would be the easiest thing to do, but I want to use the plate holder. Will have a go at using the extractors first.

I'm intending to replace the stick on number plate I have at the moment and I noticed when lining up the plate holder that there is some old screw spindle lodged into the smaller holes in the bumper. Seems the heads have been cut off at some point before I've owned this. What's the best way to get the spindles out? Drill them out? Bumper removal? Cheers

Um, you could say if I get the same bonus every year it will take another 39 Christmases to cover the Supra purchase.

That old boy is meant to fly the globe in one night and he can't spot a speeding bed coming right at him with a good 30 seconds to react.

£100 extra this month, before tax. January is meant to be the yearly personal performance bonus for us. No idea how much it could be. Last year I spent a total of 5 months looking for work as made redundant on return from Christmas and a 6 month contract at the best company I've ever worked for couldn't be extended and they couldn't afford to keep us before the product shipped. Sofa from DFS? Just take the back seats out of the Supra and prop them up in your living room. Not much good for anything else

This one looks really nice. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?232873-SARD-Carbon-Fibre-Active-Front-Spoiler Stevo, where are you getting your carbon lip from? Getting a good copy made of the lip is one thing. Getting a modified one to work with intercooler piping would be something a bit more involving I'd expect. Just so I know, what are the typical prices you'd expect to pay for each bit. Undertray, ECU, lip/blade, mechanism. Is that all of it?

The active front spoiler blades seem to be getting a bit rare. Are they about £400 new from Toyota? Has there ever been an alternative to the stock blade? Well I asked a friend of mine who runs a custom parts and bodyshop http://www.rt-performance.com, if he could make these blades in different materials. He'd do it if there was demand of over 5 people and he had a perfect original to base it from. Wondered if the interest is here?

I've always wanted to visit Japan *hint*

double post..

They are on separate circuits. The button illumination comes on when the side/head lights are on, and the selection light comes on with the ignition key. If some of the button lights are coming on in both rows, it seems to me you have some dead LED's behind the buttons? If the whole row is out, maybe LED's again or a wire in the loom behind the cluster is loose. You can use a circuit tester on the LED legs. I followed this guide to do my LED's. There is a step by step on how to open the AC control unit. http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/aesthetics/33283-diy-mkiv-late-model-led-dash-conversion-idiots-guide.html

Was looking for this thread on how to remove the air con unit buttons. You should't need to remove the unit from the dash like I did. If you can get something into the little holes on the side of each button they just ease out. Took a pic to show how they're held in for anyone's future ref.

Welcome fella

These heater cores are the same as a regular radiator in the house or a water cooled computer. Shouldn't matter which way round the pipes go as long as they reach without pinching.

Great stuff. It should hold a plate of about 330mm across and will need the bolts. A couple of you have one so what would you want to sell it for? Stevo had one for £5 + postage. Sound ok?