Delboy52

I have the same Recaro design but from a few years back and it fits fine on both front and back Supra seats and Celica seats. That pic looks like it has the isofix base though.

Traction control is to keep all the powered wheels from doing continuous wheel spins mostly when accelerating, and ABS rapidly pulses the brakes on and off to reduce lock up under braking. I don't have TC but do have ABS and mine has kicked in doing 30mph done a narrow country lane when a Land Rover appeared in my face. You don't need to be racing to need ABS. Ready to be corrected but this is how I understood the systems. I'm also interested in how you paint the bay as it's on my soon-to-do list also.

To make a homemade one is pretty cheap. The cost seems to be the air compressor though. According to this guide a 110 litre tank with at least 6-7 cfm flow is ideal for the job.

I've got an engine outside of the car sitting on a pallet at the moment and it's grubby. It's an aluminum alloy 1UZ and from what I've read, the best way to get the engine clean and stock looking is to use this media. Has anyone here done it before or even has the tools do it?

£636 for a Type 3 style. http://www.nengun.com/do-luck/aero-kit-supra-jza80-late-model

Do Luck Type 1. This one has been in a few hands on this forum. Sold it for about £100

All the good stuff is either in Australia or America. I hope Paul can start supplying some of the good stuff here in the UK for the V8's. Here's the chart showing the different rods, with the Lextreme upgrade on the end.

Straightsix is selling a nice V8 Aero.

I rounded off most (all) of the lower screw heads also. The kit from Paul comes with new screws and all 4 rubber stops. I tore off the lower ones to get access to the screws better and used a Dremel to cut a groove for a flat headed screwdriver to twist the beggers out on their threads. They were glued in by Toyota for extra awkwardness.

I have 4-1 long headers on mine from Rush Imports. Neil doesn't seem to make them anymore but there is a company in Australia that does the same design. Had a thread about it here as I found it tricky to source after market performance headers. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?271621-Hurricane-1UZ-FE-Soarer-V8-Headers-manifolds Nice work Paul. Hope you start selling performance parts for these engines

My Tanabe Touring Medalion is rated about that loud.

Come to think of it.. I think you're right. That would explain the rewire

Yep. Maybe they liked the look of extra lights full time. They could've saved the rewire hassle and just left the fog switch on though

The fog lights are meant to be the furthest outer ring in both main clusters. Side lights are either the integrated dome (pre-facelift) or with the front indicator (facelift). MOT requires rear fog lights only.

http://just.razzi.me/photos/840066/f071bff.jpg 4.0 V8: 1UZ-FE conversion Rush headers Tanabe Touring Medallion exhaust Matt black body - Carbon vinyl bonnet/doors/front wings Dash LED conversion Dash chrome rings/painted panels dacuma grey Facelift leather seats Black carpet Black roof lining Facelift front lights (not in this photo)

Did you get the SGS struts Abz and are they nice looking? How did you get on with fitting them? I was going to buy those but some OEM ones popped up so got those. I did mine this evening so thought I'd share what I did. Didn't have to remove the entire rear trim and seats as the trim fitting arrangement would ideally have you do. The trim panels are layered over each other in such a way to make the gas strut nuts near the back window as difficult as possible to get to. Support the tailgate and do those easy access bolts first. I stood using my head to lift and drop the tailgate so the bolts weren't under load while removing. Once those bolts are off, support the tailgate with something solid as it's very heavy. This will take the load off the nuts behind the trim and be easier and less risky of dropping them into the shell. I loosened up the top trim sections to give enough flex around the rear window trim to get a 10mm socket in. I found if you remove the seat belt cover you can get a better angle but it's tight. Ram something between the trim and the shell near the rear window to free your arms up. The seat belt panel pops out from the bottom first at each side, then can be pushed down with some force to clear the main trim and away. Goes back on much easier thankfully. These are the clips behind the rear seat belt cover with a solid tab at the top. http://just.razzi.me/photos/830112/6dbc194.jpg Removing that panel and pulling the top part of the remianing trim gives room to get a tool in. Just get the nuts finger loose so you can carefully roll them off by hand, without dropping them... http://just.razzi.me/photos/830113/140f6eb.jpg

I emailed Paul about the postage on these and he will invoice you back a lower postage charge. That was maybe a year ago so would've thought he'd have fixed his system by now. Could be putting buyers off on not just these. Mine fixed the rattle, but the old ones were tough to get out. Worth the effort though.

£60 a month extra is much the same cost as if you had 2 policies with different companies. If your car is a bit unusual the multicar policies seem to become uncompetetive pretty quickly. I had a year with http://www.lwib.co.uk. With limited mileage it was under £500 a year fully comp all mods declared. Give them a try Chris, might get lucky.

Each car you have must have its own insurance policy, not a bolt on to your primary. You can mirror your 4 ncb so the new policy won't be so bad. I think classic insurance won't cover modifications.

Nic, can you confirm I have this right for complete facelift headlights. Right unit 81111‑1B231 Left unit 81151‑1B231

Your son prefers the Shogun?

The guide says use the VIN plate to get an exact match on the engine. If it can't be read after normal cleaning or scraping, treat it as a non-cat car... Gets a little more interesting with a non standard engine like what I have, or this guy with a VIN plate that says 1.0 engine installed If your car has no cat installed, is pre-July 95, and has an engine that was not available in this country it should be tested as a non-cat vehicle. If it happens to have a cat installed at the time of the test, it gets the test with cat-installed tolerance settings.

Wasn't there some detail about engines that are not domestic to the UK are treated as pre-cat if it's 95 or older? My 94 car with a 93 engine doesn't have cats and it got through all the tests.

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