jagman

To expand a bit ---they do their own billet compressor based on a GTX2871 and a clipped wheel turbine , this allows higher flow at high rpms, spool is fast and it outperforms the GTX 2871r - I made 340 bhp at 1 bar with a conservative map , it will flow up to 2 bar if you want bigger power -IIRC circa 1000 pounds ,its a good mix of spool and top end power

The conservatives have a huge group of supporters in the blue rinse section , massively so , but among the younger population next to nil - they usually are not bothered with the young as they don't vote . This has been changing and quite quickly recently as more young get active . In the near future the oldies will be dying and hence a big swing in voters - so they are looking to appeal to a wider group , hence such press releases , things like help to buy (actually one of the stupidest ideas ever) launched to appeal to the young

AET turbos in Northallerton - they did mine and have their own hybrid version which has worked rather well

Pic - hence respray hardly stealthy !!

I've got one , they are low and wide which gives great levels of grip the 4x4 also gives good wet handling ,steering is very light ,common with many jap cars . Spares and parts are much cheaper than the supra and more readily available , for example I needed a clutch change , and I got a 25000 mile UK spec complete engine and box with UK spec leather interior for £600 - this left me with a spare engine and all the bolt ons starter ,alt , etc and spare box . The electronic units and there are plenty of them can give problems due to leaking capacitors now , but they are available under £50 used and can be repaired easily . They are a GT and high speed cruiser for long distances and very comfortable , high speed lane changes fantastic with the 4 wheel steering but the light steering takes a bit of concentration as every small input moves the car around . Tuning is relatively easy and many parts and info available in the US - a good selection of bolt on turbos to choose from at very good prices , ECU tuning software for the stock ECU is available and very cheap. The interiors are robust , brakes very capable and cheap , the engine layout is compact and not much room , the intercooler layout is quite complex due to the layout . The engine is quick revving and little or no lag , the jspec has smaller turbos and the U.K. Spec slightly larger ( more power but a tad more lag) Like all cars this age ,rads , hoses , alternators , and general service parts should be factored , 500 horse quite easy to achieve , many cars now have been owned by people who could not afford to maintain them but not all . European prices are 3-4 times UK prices (LHD) , but I doubt the UK cars will do this - the euro ones seem to be more dealer maintained and serviced . Cars are not an investment ,had mine about 7 years and no major issues other than service parts , and the odd electronic unit - still got a spare engine /box for bits that I have never used . Mine is in for a respray next year and has no rust to deal with

Usually the land owner , rents land to the companies on it McDonald's , service station etc , the land owner also owns the parking company - it's complex as on entry you enter a contract with the parking co all done by the entrance sign - usually with a massive "FREE PARKING " sign and much smaller 2 hrs only sign , it's never really explained how you get a parking ticket for over the 2 hours and often hard to find the ticket sales in the building. Only the land owner can take you to court and it's very tenuous if any court would find against you , questions like why don't you have a barrier to enter that is manned or ticket machines or a timed ticket available , that's nor counting the recording of number plates and access to people's address and data . There are highway signs on motorways - telling you to take a break if tired - just as long as you are not two hrs tired !!!!! Motorways are the arteries for the whole country and its scandalous that this practice is allowed , it's a scam and people should go to prison for running them , millions of people are living on the edge , and the threat of another £100 owing is just added to the pressure . It's not like the services offer a reasonable price either - profits must be massive and in all likelihood offshore and no tax paid People should not tolerate it ......

The debt recovery co can't do anything but keep sending letters - ignore them and take them off your Xmas card list - in the very rare event that it went to court , you would most likely win . Unfortunately you are not allowed to find the debt co address and go there and intimitdate them as they are trying to do to you - karma yes , legal no - mores the pity ...

Basically the studs are wrong -there should be a slight lead taper and the splines are a fraction too wide -everywhere advertises these studs and none fit properly - you need to carefully file them down and add a slight lead taper - how much to remove ? -the studs are usually black and if you file all around the stud until its shiny silver -all round ,along the length of the stud ,it pulls in fine ,you may have to sacrifice one stud to practice ,so order one extra .-basically if black is still seen keep filing -its only the surface around 2-3 thou off If you just try to pull them in as is, you will overstress the studs or knacker the treads . by pulling them in you can "feel" them tightening as you pull them in and they should not rotate -there will be some max torque figure needed to pull them as a guide -somewhere

Has this ever happened ? A car falling in half through rust - I've been in some places where the cars are unbelievable -Africa ,India and Far East - 3o-40 year old cars rusted out , never seen one fall in half , a few taxis crabbing as the chassis has snapped ,still in daily use . Far more dangerous is 4x4 drivers in the snow , who don't understand tyres don't grip ice , driving way too fast on ice as they are invincible !!!

We live in a world where many people believe things give them status , people love brand image ,badges and logos , Ray bans, lacoste, rolex , and so on , people copy or imitate ,they put M3 badges on a 318 , have fake a rolex - and so on - Its not that people "hate" the lesser versions -they all basically do the same thing , but people look upon it as a form of cheating , having something that mimics the iconic item ,withour spending the dollar , so they ask ..... is that a rolex? ? No its a lorex from the market, £20 - You cant have the status without spending the dollar - millions of people spend to gain the status , so its cheating not to .....Its lucky no one made a supra kit car -lol

Sold

Pm SENT

To clarify , roll cabs can be a PITA , when full they get massively heavy , moving them with air lines and power leads on the floor is a challenge , they usually get so full of stuff that drawers often jam with something and they dont like getting wet or damp garages -they rust You often get jobs to do not in your garage -now you have to transfer tools into another box that you can carry. You dont have to get Peli , there are cheaper copies , however you get a lifeime warranty with Peli , they are also waterproof , you can leave your box in the rain and ...nothing happens , your tools never rust . you can stack them , and divide up tools into the most used tools in one box , power tools in another , body tools in another and so on , each box is easy to move or put in your car , say going on a euro trip. There are loads of different sizes and useful for other gear; camera kit or laptops etc when travelling , they also dont scratch or get dented and you can stand on them for extra height if needed -basically, all round a good thing

There has been a general move away from steel tool chests , PELI cases are de rigeur , strong light and easy to move and carry , you can use foam inserts , easy to diy and will give you about 5 layers of tools - you can shadow board these with dual coloured trays and diy but its a real pain to do , you can buy pre cut foams but they ate more expensive than the case. easiest is to keep individual sets such as sockets in their own plastic / steel cases and cut out the case shape and insert into the foam , I use a Stahwille case , all done for me and tools all laser etched with my initials with dual colour inserts shadow boarded , it was only £5000 !!!!!!!!!-oh the joys of self employment !!!!! Pelican case circa £200 and foam circa £25 - and endless hours of fun cutting the shapes ,get one hole wrong and start all over again -lol

They are well made , solid aluminium case and robust display , the display is quite large for viewing at a glance and bright , fitting is a bit harder due to the rectanglular shape if in dash . In built fuel/boost cut override is very accurate , but adjustment and setting requires the rear panel unscrewing for access - this oddly needs the unit unplugging to remove it ,but you would only be doing this once . The control circuitry works very well and has a fast processor , the turbo timer function I've never used , boost control is solid ,adjustments are easy once you get used to the system operation (multiple use buttons and a step through function). It has more functions than most controllers , dim/bright , variable units , boost display , volts , boost cut ,timer , scramble boost and easy to connect and wire up , the solenoid connector plug is ok , but not great . Well priced and better built than most and reliable - the main downside is cutting a square hole but it's flange allows a 2mm error and flat surface mounting can be done on Velcro . As the map sensor signal goes via the unit if it's disconnected the car won't start , you could use this as an immobiliser if you want to walk around with a boost gauge in your pocket -lol

No the US had no PPI , but they also had no constant flow of imports in LHD out of Japan , so numbers were limited , they also have a more multi car culture and drag car based culture , with a greater number of people with disposable income - the competition in alternative cars is also more US based cars: Corvette: Mustangs etc , The US also wont have the same selection of JAP cars due to import regulations and age criteria , some cars are simply not available , really the rise in prices in Japan has little to do with the US other than cars for braking and for parts ,engines etc and maybe the few RHD to LHD conversions provided its cost effective How many NAs are there in the US ?

The effect of PPI cannot be underestimated , in the period we are looking at over 30 billion pounds was paid out , 25% of this was spent on holidays and 25% on cars , no suprise holiday sales rocketed and car sales rocketed - during this same period wages dropped in real terms and still dropping - DEMAND is cash/ credit based , no money no honey . This type market for Supras is not a true market , its not an essential , and if say there are 1000 supras in japan, but only 10 are for sale , these 10 dictate the price for the 990 cars not for sale , and they are mostly auction driven , so fast and larger variables exist both up and down . Those that predict higher and higher prices , I would ask WHY ? and how ? -given no more PPI and lower salaries and a huge inrease in credit and debt by households

The prices in Japan , will be driven by export , and mainly by UK ,Aus,and NZ , (Ireland),due to the cars being RHD . As I said previously prices follow the economy ,one reason for price rises was the large PPI payouts from the banks in UK ,there is a always a "fashion" element to any of theses type things , much like antiques , in or out of fashion . The whole drifting thing has effected jap car demand ,but this will come and go again . Australia has had a completely mental house price inflation .much like UK , And I mean mental , this releases capital against the house and people will pay more for things -cos they can,, Now Australian debt is absolutely enormous ( I'm sure any Aussie members can verify this) with flatline wages - The home Japanese market isn't really about 20 year old cars , and parking ,one major obstacle to multi car ownership . The whole classic car scene is a bit odd , especially about originality , bordering on insane ......I've seen two blokes arguing about the shade of paint on a cylinder head and weather or not it changed in 1964 . The majority of supras are import , so for originality front brakes should be retained , speedo,speed limiter, flare, tyres, no fog light ,down to the under bonnet stickers - that is the old classic car view - only the UK spec would be correct . I personally think we've hit the ceiling price wise and expect prices to fall ,I have 7 "classic" jap cars , so that hurts me more than most - but I really don't give a shit , I enjoy them for what they are ,not what they are worth ,and every car has non factory shocks -bugger the purists

The head unit is a pre amp and having a separate power amp keeps the dash board board components smaller and cooler , and a cleaner audio path - it allows more powerful speakers - cars wiring limits to 50 watt amp Yes the underseat amplifier is internally short circuited probably moisture , new head unit would probably be the easiest thing now , modern units have moved on anyway . Being a snob , I prefer "engineer " lol

I don't think the originality is such a big issue with the supra , they are famous for being raced or modified and are no "classic car" shows or such like with points awarded or concourse status - I doubt there ever will be , it's for people with time on their hands and that mindset - long gone Price wise , it's not just rarity that reflects the price , I once had a car that was 1'of 6 ever made , worth next to nothing .... It's a market and driven by market forces , availability of credit , cash , and the economy in general and the prices of alternatives . Prices will peak and then plummet , credit will be tighter , cash harder to come by . The boom in lease cars the last few years , will have an impact , I think we are around 90% of new car sales on lease terms now -no one actually owns a car anymore .. This madness is pumping millions of cars into the market , and must push used car prices lower .....now the supra has a major competitor , basically any of the more modern performance cars , M5. , Audi , et al . A tighter economy will push many luxury used cars into the mix , of course some will be buying supra s as they have always wanted one but many would think why am I paying ten grand more than the price of a six year old Bentley continental ........ Fuel prices will also impact , there will be a massive push to electric cars ,sooner rather than later ,and the sheer number of cars on the road now is reducing any enjoyment in driving - who wants 500 HP in a traffic jam ? We will see ...

Ok - we are nearly there : pulling the fuse Rad 2 - removes the problem So the cross connection is from this circuit , Rad 2 circuit feeds 3 things : 1 the head unit radio 2 the antenna relay - that controls the antenna motor 3 the stereo amplifier All 3 have both rad2 and ACC supply to them , they also all have internal transistors and circuit boards - you need to unplug each one at at time , if nothing has been messed with ( additional wiring done from previous owner ) the amplifier below the seat is favourite - it's most likely to have water in it at some time or stood on or disturbed . I don't know if your head unit is stock - if not , start here . Check the original plug and loom , someone splicing power off this is favourite .The relay is behind the centre dash/glove box area , it's not a normal relay , it's also a control unit with internal transistors - but least likely to have been touched , due to location - but you never know , some people try real hard to get it all wrong. Troubleshooting circuits , you don't actually follow wires and looms , you do it with a meter and isolate first , inspecting cables is the last thing in line . I just trying to imagine people's faces if at work ,if I did that , a 4 mile circuit on a 747 , and I said "I be finished in about 3 years " - lol "I can't find and fix the fault " is also not an option , they are not likely to say "ok , we will just scrap the aircraft then " -lol

The ECU cuts power if it sees an error , different RPM,s for different issues , often this is not shown on the diagnostic codes : 1 the neural switch does this in an auto , but From memory it's lower revs - circa 3000 2 crank sensor also does this but higher up the rpm again from memory - (the crank sensor ring can also come loose) 3 Cam sensor again causes this Check sensor cables , screens , and connectors too 4 MAF sensor also causes odd misfires , easy enough th clean first 5 the trac control can throw a wobbly too and shut the throttle plate open /close 6 water temp sensor again cause a misfire 7 the ignition module another source 8 timing out causes this , so belt jump or the solenoid that ports oil to control the vvti - clean filter first It can be a real mare to find these issues , and Sod's law says it's the last bit you check or change Note : the aftermarket coil packs for the vvti are shit !!!!! The misfire at certain revs only in neutral also points to an ECU detected fault rather than a plugs /fuel problem

First , you need to inspect both ECU s - did they "blow" in the same place on the circuit cards , this can narrow down the output wires , the fault is most likely in the engine loom/gearbox loom - short circuit , maybe a plug backwards or wire trapped . Then , with the wiring diagrams , megga each pin on the ECU connector , this will show the faulty wire , this can be done with a stabilised power supply , set to 12v , it will show large current draw on a wire where it should not draw much . Then inspect that wire and loom run to its final connection , sensor or whatever , disconnect the load , sensor or whatever and check again . Now it's known if it is sensor or wire , repair wire as necessary . As it ran 280 km , it's an intermittent fault and probably a wire chaffed , so around steering, wheels, shocks , fans , and grommets and clamps . Could be as easy as a 2 pin connector forced on backwards or with a broken clip - Only about 80 or so pins to check

Yes the acc power supplies two fuses , after the fuses, one to the stereo amp ( is it fitted ?) (another source for xfeed) , the other feeds the cjg lighter and clock (clock also twin supplies and a source of xfeed) All have a common supply ACC , but with the ignition off - its no longer there , this does not stop it becoming an earth , a common earth and the earth becoming live so it powers up -cross wiring or internal short circuits or high resistance earths cause odd problems -its a case of isolating the problem , use a meter - I cant help too much as i have no idea whats been added or altered , for example a boost guage in place of the clock , or new stereo and what did they do with the wiring But you are on a correct path at least -when you find it, you always go -DOH!!!!

Your ACC wire pink and blue - only feeds your cig lighter and the rad no2 (radio) , or I must say SHOULD only feed these two, both via fuses So which one most likely to have been buggered with .....I'm going with the radio and maybe an antenna feed , then again there may be a memory live feed to keep radio channels stored - there is no end of ways people bodge wiring