jagman

Few of these GR toyotas today in Tokyo - Not that impressed

I have a boostlogic and from the above list there was no clutch pack upgrade ,forward piston or accumulator pistons or sprag - I had it rebuilt and kevlar clutches and a billet sprag fitted ,all done in the UK - so not the same box

I think for top speed type events your aerodynamics is hurting your terminal speeds , drag increases at a square of the speed and the last 200 meters speed is high , a few small changes and speeds would increase - its much cheaper and easier than chasing horsepower . I expect theres 5 mph in those wing mirrors alone

You need a flexi budget , and the ability to live on beans on toast for long periods of time ; lets say you have purchased the finest of parts available and doing everything yourself and you have finished it, It looks magnificent ..............BUT you have a misfire randomly between 1000 and 7000 rpm . the cause is the crankshaft sensor screen cable is nipped and the alternator earth is poor , so a spike is sent to the ECU and it misfires , now ive told you the issue but now someone tell me how long and how much you could spend trying to find that and how many parts you could replace and still not fix it ? Now add that one pin on your syvecs connector is half pushed back as well and makes an intermittent contact 10% of the time , this is at the same time as the first missfire happens - yep you are Mr unlucky - Now how much and how long to fix , given both issues actually take 10 mins to sort out ? At what point will this car be on ebay with a " minor" problem to sort out -lol , or the worlds longest forum thread !!!!!!! or an overdose of beans

The voltage is regulated - regardless of speed , it alters the current supplied depending on load - so if battery is low Volts the alternator provides more current , or if more load from heater, fans , rear window, stereo or whatever it also provides more current . But if the alternator cannot provide enough current , slip rings worn , belt slipping , field coil high resistance or volts reg knackered it’s voltage drops . Idle should be in the regulator range 13.6- 14.2 or so . Toyota alternators seldom go past 100000 miles and the center slip rings /brushes are usually knackered - other people’s cars will depend on their battery condition but around 14 v

On another car , I got a used turbo cheap - checked it out seemed good , no noise, no blade damage , no play - bargain!!! Lasted about 30 seconds on the dyno , torque rose beautifully until it fell like a stone ...... seized solid A tiny bit of carbon came out and blocked the oil return line - oh how I laughed... My pockets now extend below my knees !!!

There is a possibility that the filter (a sort of Brillo pad affair) in the reservoir is clogged, it’s fairly common , to clean it you need to remove the reservoir and fill it with a solvent and make like a cocktail bar barman . They don’t clean with new fluid alone , easy enough to do and may prevent Chris from a second trip south and the associated liver fatigue.

Going to a single turbo ( always done to increase power) you create your own problems and have to pay to create the solutions to the problems you increase boost and airflow to produce more power , this increases the heat energy , lots of this heat flys out of the exhaust but wherever it goes it causes problems - valves ,cylinder heads ,exhaust manifolds , oil and water and so on - each component is more likely to fail and each component more stressed and strained There is also an increased chance of detonation , which can destroy the engine , it costs money to overcome this and components must work as required ALL the time , spark plugs must extract the heat, fuel must always be correct and available , injectors,fuel pumps ,filters, ignition must always be correct , and so on Then there are the mechanical components , crank pulleys , pistons ,rings, water pumps ,oil pumps ,gaskets, and so on ,all with greater loadings , they must work as required ALL the time . The costs rise or you dont do something to save money ,often its the saving money bit that costs you a fortune - sort of should I use a new headgasket or check the piston tops - naaah , then that bit of carbon on the piston detonates and bang !! Deep pockets are a by product of more power , can it be done cheap - not really , you may make power for about 10 seconds -lol

http://lightningmotorcycle.com Here's a fast pig it really does fly , it's just the 38k price tag

http://www.motofire.com/2017/01/news/is-the-400-mile-range-vigo-electric-motorcycle-too-good-to-be-true/ If you are in a rush to go to work and also enjoy our magnificent summers -lol

It's often quoted that the whole British Empire was run by 4000 civil servants , it's not true , it was nearer 40000 , today we have 6000 in DVLA alone and they have computerised systems - that's progress and technology for you !

Near you :LA paintworks in ampthill - done plenty of stuff for me - all good , talk to Lee - custom stuff and quality paint systems

Dont forget the older breeds of 4x4 !!!! my liitle pulsar GTIR circa 1992 , will pull 1.7 60 ft all day and Id like to think may reel in its newer sibling , rev to 6000 ,let go of clutch and hang on ....its just as good as launch control ,lol also does the twisty road thing, however flat last in the beauty pageant !!! God its ugly

There are a number of choices - LS 400 , these are cast aluminium versions of the supra but the discs are are tad smaller and 28mm thick (slightly thinner ) ,and few pad choices available , they are remanufactured and quite cheap in the US around 100 dollar each mark but you need to ship -30 quid ish and may have duty to pay ,another 30 quid ish- they dont come with the hardware pins ,anti sqeal shims ,clips etc ,again around 30 quid . they are also available from US from breakers and around 100 bucks a pair these come complete and usually in fine condition (UK breakers are usually 3 times the price and shagged ) ive had 3 sets from US all in very good condition and all sub 100 bucks . they are also available from europe as remanufactured but around 200 quid each (effectively new) discs from 60 quid to 150 quid a pair -315mm and pads from 9 pound a set there is also the ls460 brakes but these need the adaptor mounts and discs redrilling ,there appears more pad selections available but due to the heavier weight of the 460 an extra 500kg these will dissipate heat better anyway (also larger discs than the supra) -wheel clearance will be the issue here .again not expensive in the US from breakers no more than the ls400 calipers there is a tad of filing to do on the calipers no more than 2 mins worth and the rear dust cover to cut or bend out of the way , the main problem is wheel fitment , some wheels need spacers , some longer studs fitting to fit the spacers and some the studs are too long and foul the wheel hub Any brake improvement is in the heat control and stock jspec are constantly sticking , more trouble than they are worth ,in Japan they cant be driving over 40 mph !!! I must have about 6 jspecs in a box in the shed all knackered /sticking or have stuck at some time

Thats the second vvti soarer written off this year , the only good news about that ,is we are now down to 11 left and at that rate, of 2 a year I will have the only one left in UK in 5 years !!! Is it worth all the aggro of converting a converted car? surely a twin turbo fit onto the exhaust tail pipework would be much easier and use what you have got

Looks to me like stock ls460 front discs -334.8 x 30 but the holes look eliptical ,so drilled out/rotary filed to fit - mtec can redrill new pcd for 25 quid on new discs -its really the brackets someone need to remake ,calipers are plentiful and cheap

the 120 amp fuse feeds another 50 amp fuse this feeds some circuits off the ignition sw, some of the ignition sw circuits are directly fed bypassing the 120 a fuse- the starter circuit is fed from either or ign 1 or ign 2 -if the 120a has blown then the 50a would probably blow too IF the ignition switch was turned There are a few IFs , that can have an effect , was your foot on the brake pedal and so on - these make circuits and allow the reverse polarity to cause problems ,regardless of these the ignition module frying is the most common effect . To diagnose any electrical problem you need all the symptoms ,you seldom, if ever get this - lamps are working ,which lamps , not a squeek out of ignition - nothing at all ? there are 2 ignition circuits , did you try and crank the engine ? Maybe you burned the ignition switch contacts , maybe a few fuses gone or wire burned . you need to test with a meter in a logical sequence

I guess keron would have about 432 of them and only ever sells them to the "JUMP STARTERS"- welcome to the jump starters club -lol

Around 100 quid new , soarer aristo use the same module and plenty of used ones around as they never fail unless cross connected -used ,I guess 10 quid to 80 quid depending on the sellers greed ability , ive probably got 2 or 3 in my shed and they will never be used as they never go wrong - vvti modules are different and they also never go wrong unless x connected !!!

The ignition module instantly is destroyed and is now scrap

pm sent

Soarer rack is the same -early car and not the 32 -4ws

cob -chip on board , available in red ,amber, white , usually around 14 cm x 1 cm -or rings , very low current draw and produce a straight line of constant light which is very bright -no drilling required and dimmable , also very fast switching times

I guess Bull running is OK then Ie , A very irate 700kg bull chasing you through narrow spanish town roads , whilst you wear the safety equipment of white shirt, white trousers ,and a red football scarf -nothing could possibly go wrong there then !!!!!!

This is typical EU , there will be countries taking a view on motorsport who basically dont have any motorsport...... for the whole EU , how about a mandatory insurance for skiing ? apparently that snow and ice is damn slippery stuff . The one place I can think that really needs insurance is the IoM TT , but the IoM is outside the EU and it would not be enforceable . Try and suggest a mandatory ski insurance and watch the alpine countries kick off .....one for all and every man for himself ...that would be the EU then !!!