jagman

Mike - there are plenty of how to type guides on the Internet for rear battery installs , the problem is that most of them are wrong !! That's the power of the Internet . First is the fused pos line ,as mentioned - without this , it's possible destroy your car in smoke and fire as the complete line can get hot enough to melt the cable insulation along its length in a short circuit situation Second is the charge voltage from the alternator : The alternator uses the ALT S wire (alternator sense) this runs from a 7.5 a fuse to the battery , the alternator uses this to "sense" the battery voltage and adjust its output to match the charge state of the battery. Some of this is due to the temperature of the battery , in simple terms battery output voltage drops the hotter it gets - If charge voltage is too high battery life reduces . How much ? You can half it 10 years to 5 or even half it again to 2.5 years Temp wise circa 20-25 degrees c is the sweet spot ,but remember charge currents can heat a battery up . This is why they are usually fitted in a cool spot in the engine bay , or in the rear wing area in a rear mounted situation , the old V12 jags got so hot under bonnet ( cos its full of engine ) they fitted a battery fan !!! In your situation you have a much longer pos lead and it could drop voltage in the run to the front of the car , if the alt s wire is still connected here , it will see a reduced battery voltage and up the alternator output thinking the battery(s) is down a bit . A lesser factor is the central boot location may get quite warm on a long drive , dropping the nominal volts a tad and increasing the charge volts . So extend the alt s wire and run it to as close to the battery terminal as possible - here the inline fuse block is perfect , sorry a bit more wiring to run the length of the car - lol It is not essential and nothing will explode , but it may save you using more batteries than a Tesla

I would add an inline fuse - due the battery being in the boot and a long unprotected cable run it’s normal to add a fuse : The Mini Cooper s has a boot mounted battery and they have a fuse block with a short positive cable ( a few inches), this will allow the fuse block (plastic square) to be placed alongside the battery . £15 or so from any mini breakers . It would still look a tidy instal and offer protection against shorts

Some of the connector pins are not used - but you may want to use them later, so populate the whole connector , for this you need the pins , wire these pins and stow them . Now if you ever need to use Any of these it’s easy and you don’t have to start inserting pins in situ - it’s a Volvo connector pins I think

5 cylinder Volvo : My current one cost me £600 , got it at 200,000 miles and now 300,000 , but recently the alternator packed up and cost me £75 , so I think I was sold a pup . The ignition switch also plays up and is loose , this could be another £40 this year - miffed !!!

Does the R34 have the starter motor connected to the fuse block pos terminal - if not you can’t - These type terminals are for recharging the battery , when the battery is not accessible not for jump starting

YES-but a bad idea due overcurrent overheat in lead possibility

Alodine (wipes available now about £5 ) pre treatment , then chromate etch primer and then filler primer and top coats - job done

How did they eradicate carbon build up?

I am not a fan of any direct injection engine ,they are too complex and present a tuning nightmare ; very high pressure fuel with complex injection timings and super short duration control ,anything at high pressure is difficult to deal with , any tuner cant alter the parameters without knowledge of the original design criteria -they dont have any Carbon build up is a given and another step backwards ,higher compression is counter productive with any boost increases ,all in all great engines for efficiency and emissions but a mare if chasing power , in a performance car who is bothered about MPG and emissions ? - Old school for me ; shove in air , shove in fuel and light it up .... The more complex you make it ,the harder it gets

24 You say , hmm that means you need to be escorted at all times with a responsible adult -lol ,anyway if your premium was 60 quid ,you would only spend the 1500 on drink and women -ha ha , I would at 24

The cat temp sensor ,the rear light warning sensor and the oil level warning sensor are all voltage sensitive , so you could get false warnings with low volts ; so toyota added a diode to each of these that is connected to the alternator wire that feeds the charge warning light . IF the alternator volts drops below battery volts all 3 lights should come on plus the charge light - how bright they come on depends on how low the volts go and the condition of the diode and bulbs - some or all may come on IF crank pulley snapped or such the lights all 4 would be very bright , max volts drop across the bulbs , if its a slight undervolt then one or more would glow getting brighter as the alt output drops Alternator wise they dont go much past 100000 miles , the commutators wear out , everyone should expect an alternator fail , there are two connector types on the alternators and there is a conversion lead available to change from one to another

Maybe something like DURISOL blocks and pour cement in the void -cost saving is only in the DIY aspect and still be around 50 quid a square meter plus skim cost ,and paint ,warmer garage though and done in a day and half -

The diagram represents the switch sequence - first click is ACC - this is powered , the second click powers ign 1 as well , at the same time ign2 is powered , the next click is sprung loaded to start - at the same time ign 1 and ACC is opened and ign 2 remains closed After start you release the switch and all 3 are now powered - until you turn back to off or ACC . This is why ignition switches have some length to them , the contacts are along a shaft so contacts can be operated at the same time by some cam or key way on the barrel shaft all turned by the key . And why you can get some weird problems when an ignition switch contacts go bad or worse intermittent , key barrels worn etc . All normal car stereos are around 45-50 watts for example - this is not because manufacturers can make more powerful amps , but car wiring is rated to a max current that gives 45-50 watts - bigger amps could bugger the wiring and ignition switch ACC contacts . Hence mahoosive aftermarket amplifiers run direct off a battery lead . Aftermarket things fitted , we all have them , need some thought , how much load and current , and things like start current on rad fans or motors etc - you can't just hook them up to any nearby powered wire just because it's handy - lol I've seen so many cars with high quality mechanicals and cosmetic installs with shockingly bad wiring installs - I always try and imagine their Xmas tree light installs at home - 7 extension reels all loaded with plugs !!!!

Just for completeness and an overview : Some circuits are directly fed bypassing the ignition altogether- this allows these to operate without needing your keys , usually horn , so you can beep your mate without fumbling for keys , the headlight flash for similar reasons and hazards , these are very short term loads , sometimes the heater fans work , to allow passenger cooling or heating if the driver has left the car with the keys . This also has the effect of reducing the current that passes through the ignition switch - the more current passing through an ignition contact , the more likely it will fail , another reason for multiple switch contacts. Adding any electrical items requires some thought as to where you draw the power from , usually this never happens and some of the most random wiring installs are the result - a total nightmare for the next owner , especially when it goes wrong ......17 different circuits all fed from the cigar lighter - lol

ACC is for accessories- things you want to have switched on without having the ignition on , saving the battery being drained over longer periods , so it powers the radio allowing you to listen when parked up , or have a smoke (cigar lighter - high load but only for a short time) So no , unless you are into looking at your gauges while nothing else is running - lol

Ign 1 This is for all other circuits not needed to start the engine

ign 1, the ign 2 is kept on during cranking the engine and provides the ignition and fuel and ECU - This prioritises these during cranking as the voltage drops from the battery to ensure engine starts the ign 1 is removed during cranking and returns after engine start ( switch returns to ign1) the ign 1 are not required to start the engine a lesser priority during low volts situations

Since igniters are manufactured to match ignition coil characteris- tics, the function and construction of each type are different. For this reason, if any igniter and coil other than those specified are combined, the igniter or coil may be damaged. Therefore, always use the corr ect parts specified for the vehicle. https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjwj7yy3rHYAhUDSBQKHSP_DM4QFghdMAY&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.deanza.edu%2Ffaculty%2Fwaltonjohn%2Fpdf%2FToyotaignition.pdf&usg=AOvVaw36jGN83oleZ8F-D2_G8-bT impedence matching is important and some ECU/ignitor functions may not be correct with the stock ecu

Frisbee

Polaroid , doc martens , zippo , leatherman , Luger? , Walkman, space hopper

Batteries can be recycled - lithium batteries have only been available since 1991 these type batteries are in their infancy , as it the elect motor technology and car construction ( construction is limited because cars crash - you have to look ahead to cars that don't crash!!! And light plastic or such construction ) A push is all that is necessary to speed up development , an instant £20 a litre price for petrol would do that - there would be a stampede for elect cars . Burning petrol or derv to move a car is outdated and requires drilling holes miles under the sea bed or equally stupid ways of getting oil . I expect electric cars ,trucks, vans ,motorbikes will be common place in a very short time and a van outperform today's super cars - they are not that super at all !!! You could end up with a small battery and motor in each wheel of a car and reach 1000 miles on a charge - that's technology and the speed it works at - one breakthrough can transform the world around you

Press on in an auto and dont bring your A game ,kerons waiting for your car ......

In most situations A to B , the auto is faster , much of this is down to the torque multiplication of the converter and some down to shift times and power removal during changes ,plus thinking time. The auto box is running an algorithm,calculating speed ,load , throttle and factoring torque multiplication - all done in a few milliseconds. The manual box - your brain does this , slower and often wrong - it’s the multitasking that people quote as “involving” as you also use visual input and aural input (engine noise). The auto won’t be half asleep and drive a few miles in 5th instead of 6 th - lol

From what I’m seeing in Japan , any of the normal U.K. popular Jap performance cars are virtually non existent in Japan , most people seldom use cars -, e bikes , scooters buses and trains by far outstrip cars . Most cars are Parked up in tiny garages and parking spaces and seldom used . The popular cars are tiny and much like postman pats van. The cars here are all in very good condition , a mixture of low use , dry weather conditions and absolutely no DIY ( Everything is done in main dealers by the book) this along with a very high driving standard . You can’t buy a car here without a parking place to park it and it’s expensive to park cars - this pretty much limits Multicar ownership .

Ever wondered what a Japanese dealers workshop looks like? Very very clean!!