jagman

I have a front and rear and side skirts and rear sides all in silver

A very quick check = make sure the calipers are the right way round , they can be fitted backwards left - right , right -left , this moves the bleed nipple top - bottom and vice versa - the result is you cannot bleed all the air out , it remains trapped in the caliper - it's one of those " Doh! "moments .....

You can fan assist an oil cooler with a small fan , power ,rpm and time are the main factors in heating oil up , drag racing the time duration is small so a lesser effect than track racing , track use and or autobahn driving are the biggest oil heating issues - sump return of 100 degrees isthe target ,this is the coolest oil temp in the system ,all other oil temps are relative to this . the highest oil temp would be around the rings and way over the sump temp , so if your sump is say 120 and not 100 -the other temps are also plus 20 , the oil thins and film thickness reduces with temp - every oil has its limit

The most common issues with the limiters are when swapping to a manual gearbox but still using the autobox ecu , plugs disconnected on the gearbox that need a signal ,but anything is possible once wiring is disturbed ie ecu piggybacked or connectors disconnected and reconnected -a simple check at the ecu pin for correct earth or voltage is required

"You also have another electronic issue that has lowered the engine rpm limit." As I have already pointed out there is a Rpm limiter that is to do with the park /neutral/ drive selection and I think it's around 5000 rpm - even if the box selects gears and the engine starts if the ecu thinks it's in park the limiter kicks in . The ECU has a few "limiters" each at a different rpm and each for a different reason and they do not always show up on self test of the ECU

Its worth checking the S wire (sense) -this connects to the battery via the ALT S fuse and provides the alternator with the voltage of the battery , hence -sense , if this wire or the fuse has a high resistance , loose or rusty fuse connection for example , the voltage sensed is low ,so the alternator pushes up the output voltage to correct the low voltage - this can boil the battery due overcharging . these are old cars with old wiring and often messed about with ....

Voltage regulator , diodes , slip rings , windings , and bearings can all go faulty , not worth repairing as the alternators only last around 100000 miles , usually inner slip rings worn out - just accept that they are consumeable like tyres and replace the alternator every 100000 miles . It’s part and parcel of owning an old car , battery ,alternator, crank pulley,water pump and so on will fail - you just replace them with new

I think you will find its the same with bigger jobs too , I'm restoring an old (1824) building close to where you are , big problems getting builders who know what they are doing , lime motor and plaster work , stonework , etc , let alone turn up . After about a year , it seems DIY is the only way forward , even the electrical instal is problematic , I'm fitting a modern DALI lighting system , but it seems that no "electricians " have a scooby do about modern lighting systems , I'm having to explain how it works and should be wired , but I can't sign it off that's got be done by electrician who does not know how it all works - go figure Render / insulation I'm using Bauwer light , a modern insulation system , but plasterers know nothing about it , I'm having to explain .. So I've had electricians , plasterers, carpenters , all who don't know their own trades , now followed up by heating engineers , structural engineers and architects who also don't know their trades - it's the modern way ..... Provide poor skills levels at outrageous prices if you can be bothered to turn up at all ...... I'm sure there are quality builders about , it's just they are massively outnumbered and you don't know who they are ,everyone has a mobile phone , builders have special phones with no date or clock on them and they only accept incoming calls , sometimes -lol

Somewhere in the back of mind is something about a rev limiter around the 5000 rpm area , when the auto box is in neutral or in your case thinks it’s in neutral -!part of the NSS switch function

Guess im wrong then on the vvti , strange since ive had one for years , yes cams are available , crower etc , but tuning the vvti requires an ecu that can do it , here its more tricky ,hence ECU comment , there was an APEXI PFC but these are no longer available and were made on such a limited run that ive spent 8 years looking for one without success ,they are also soarer specific and the chaser one wont work -ive tried , yes there are ECU S available but you also need someone who is used to tuning them and altering the vvti . Things like the throttle control ecu can give problems ,again soarer specific and linked to the trac system -try find one of those boys !!! yes you can get round it ,just spend more money . the guy has already expressed concerns about ECU and mapping and cost ,let alone the re wire of looms , you do know there is only one wiring diagram available and that is not holeshot correct . 600hp is close to the MAF sensor limits , just add money ,solved ,its a great engine sure but you MUST have the budget available , there are far more used parts available for the non vvti ,injectors and so on ,to help reduce costs . Soarer vvti spares from breakers -forget it ,i think there is one car in the whole uk breaking and there are not that many chasers ,there are usually a few complete engines available (chaser) Its simply easier to buy the car you want completed that someone else has overcome any and all issues and drive it next month just in time for spring . ive also got a single turbo 1jz over 600 hp ,and you dont think ive gone past 20k pounds on that -lol

Easiest solution is to sell the NA sell both soarers and buy a 600 hp single turbo supra ready to drive , if forced to undertake the large amount of work and expenditure to swap engines and convert ,then the vvti is slightly more difficult and expensive due fewer options aftermarket , the first consideration is what ecu you will use and everything else revolves around that . its always better to buy someone elses moneypit than create your own

Looks mint to me , but I come from a classic Jag background ,where a totally rusty E-type may cost 20k and then need 5 years ,a couple of thousand manhours and 50k spent to restore , even the worst Supra looks a piece of piss to me ....a couple of days welding needed ,wow big deal !! A guy I know restores old Bentleys , he makes everything from scratch and I mean everything! IF people are going to call a Supra a classic and expect high prices then expect some restoration costs , luckily not into the tens of thousands ....yet ,a few hours with a soda blaster is not the end of the world

The trac cont is probably different - signals go to trac and then on to the ECU - you could easily have the sub throttle not opening so no air to the engine despite opening the main throttle - it also uses things like the brake switch which in turn is used by the gearbox control Gear indication wise I would start with the gearbox plug . I’m trying to avoid going through the wiring diagrams as it takes ages !!

I had a brief look at the wiring diagrams and there are some differences NA to TT such as NA has 1 EFI relay and the TT has 2 , so things like the relay box and fuse box needs swapping as well , I dont know exactly what was done in the swap over , the tach signal comes from the no1 ignitor , but it also feeds elsewhere in the combination meter and does share a supply feed with the gear selection indicator , one bad earth or missing earth can cause all sorts of problems ,and without knowing what was done and how carefully the loom instal was done its very hard to trace possible defects unless you con check every loom wire

Sounds like a wire loom/connector issue , maybe on the gearbox loom , trapped or cut etc - you will have to con check each wire on the effected system neutral switch , crank signal , rpm signal and so on also it’s not mix and match is it - ie a partial loom swap - lots of time needed on wiring diagrams and fluke meter

Given the original problem it's probably worth putting heat shrink sleeving on the new sensor wires , it's always handy to have spare sleeving kicking around the garage too . You can also use a blob of silicon to hold looms in place - a poor mans cable clamp ,but it does work as long as its oil free and allowed to harden

Yes the shielding is critical -the signal is so small that any stray voltage is huge in comparison and sends your ecu a wobbly -you can repair shieding but it needs special splices and is fiddly

There is only one connector a 2 pin near the alternator an pretty easy to see if any problem there - due to the very low voltage pulses generated the resistance is critical and the connection , trouble is the insulation resistance of the sensor is also critical and hard to check,so a new sensor is hard to avoid -thats how i got my spare -lol I think my new one was around 70 quid -ICP if i remember correctly no pulse at all is unusual and points to a connection or wire issue - way better than a random pulse .....

Is it showing a code for the sensor? I have one somewhere but not home for 3 weeks - worth removing the old one and checking the star plate in the hole (they can and do come loose) need a mirror /torch and small screwdriver and a bendy neck or feed a small boy in

The hypocrisy - the press and manufacturer claim the icon and legend status : I remember the press often calling the Supra a second division footballers car , and such like ,no mention of icon , the main reason the owners , tuners ,and enthusiasts loved the supra was the BPU factor , for 1000 pounds you could make 460 bhp and done in a day . This cheap power had massive appeal , despite Toyota actually having things that prevented this simple upgrade needing overcoming ,Toyota never changed any of the prohibitive things in the supra , enthusiasts did all the work arounds and collected all the tuning data -year on year pushing up power levels It was owners who made the car iconic , from the starting point of a cheap power hike , allowing the second division footballers car to scare the supercars , they could never bully a supra , as they might be on the wrong end of a whuppin-lol Lets hope the new car, remembers what created the icon - cheap power and endless tuning and modification ability - a supercar for the massses not the media or journos -keep it simple

Clean car - on your cam belt picture just behind the cam is the VVTI solenoid , behind the banjo bolt is a small screen oil filter - worth cleaning that as I dont think its on the service schedule ,10 min job ,and if you have nothing better to do you can pop out the solenoid and clean that too and check the o rings -can save a world of grief later on down the road

I did do some experimentation with stock vs FMIC on both BPU and single turbo , it was some time ago and I used 2 different FMIC s one cheap and one expensive named brand : I monitored 2 temperatures one the IAT - this was at the top of the "up pipe" near to the throttle so as not to get any heat measurements from the inlet/engine being transmitted . And two from the pipework so I could see what the pipework difference was In short I found that irrespective of the FMIC install negatives , the pressure behind ,the ducting , edge sealing , etc -it always out performed the Smic . The biggest single effect is the frontal area , it overcomes all else . The next biggest effect was the up pipe skin temperature , at lower speeds or when stopped it rose dramatically as it got heated by the radiator - the IAT followed after a lag time . The stock rubber/plastic piping was way better than the aftermarket aluminium/stainless , I tried wrapping the pipe , better but not what you would expect - it still heat soaked , the space available is not enough to get a suitable insulation layer over the pipe Cheap FMIC vs branded FMIC - the difference was negligible , both in pressure drop and IAT and recovery times . In the end I fitted a twin cooling system : a charge cooler welded in to the up pipe post the FMIC and pre throttle , despite the inefficiency of the charge cooler (they need maximum temp difference inlet / outlet to become efficient ) the result is the coolest most stable IAT you can get ,no matter what the external situation with a negligible boost drop . Water injection also worked well. BPU IAT vs stock IAT was always mitigated by forward speed the faster you went the closer the two temps became ,so if you want to go round and round doing donuts at BPU - don't !!!

coolant temp sensor doubles the volume of fuel during cold start and initial warm up - the higher the resistance the colder it thinks it is ,so a poor connection simulates a very cold situation , open circuit or short cuircuit gives a fault code -resistance should drop from 20k ohm to 1 k ohm from cold to hot or thereabouts

So it’s not a rad cap , radiator blocked , leaking hose , water pump , viscous fan , soft hose , thermostat , head gasket ,timing but a hairline crack that only happens when it’s “hot”and passes a sniff test - who is this advisor is he psychic?

Yes - that’s the one 125 amp - you also have lower fused outputs for things like a fuel pump feed and such . Before you ask how can a 125 amp fuse work with a battery that can supply 800 amps : Fuses and fuseable links and circuit breakers can pass 3 to 5 times their rating BUT only for a short time (ie less than 1/2 second) , this is because they operate on heat and the heat takes time to take effect . The higher the current the faster the fuse “blows” . During cranking you could draw say 600 amps but it is for such a short time the fuse will not blow - as soon as the starter turns it produces a back EMF that reduces the current flow by a large amount . If anyone asks how back EMF works , it’s easier to say it’s Magic and you are not in the magic circle - lol A much tidier instal with the fuse box - not too expensive I hope