jagman

hi, im using stock j spec springs, and kyb adjustable shocks all round,on softest settings,cornering,body roll,traction,change of direction,at any speed is fabulous,but.........you feel every pot hole,divot,stone,even the joints of tar between concrete sections of road,go-cart like performance even on undulating road surface,but not a luxury ride ,probably as good or better handling than my m3( no mean feat),but no feed back from chassis of when its going to let go at the limits-perhaps i havent got close enough to that point-i need a track day and a few "offs" to establish limits and try harder settings-to summerise handling cannot be bettered,ride quality poor -maybe the lardy uk springs would give a more comfy ride but at the expense of outright handling,cant comment i havent tried this combo,now all ive got to do is convince the D.O.T to resurface the whole of the uk road network:)

could it be the eec has logged a fault in memory and is inhibiting the fuel pump until the fault is cleared ,I guess youve pulled the eec fuses and tried a reset ,failing that you will need to read any stored failures hth

Hmmmm... I cant see that these would be well balanced,how would you balance these things? 1 or 2 grams out at one of the tips? -wibble wobble.Never seen these before,I wonder why

due to the erratic nature of your problems,and all sensors check out,plus no fault codes,can I suggest a screen problem,spurious signals can be picked on the sensitive circuits if the screening is broken,at either end of the sensor wire,Iwould check the oxy sensor first,followed by the crankshaft position sensor,youll have to check each end of the sensor cable screen to earth plus screen to screen end to end for continuity, thats the easy bit:) ,if the screen continuity is missing you will have to find the chafe/break along the cable length thats no fun:( bet you wish you had carbs,and points,and coil:D

I think its more important to establish oil pressure in engine prior to its first start,than the grade of non synth oil, I just use a cheap 20 /50 and dump it after 20 mins running ,its usually quite black cos i use loads of cam lube,and rocol moly spray on engine build. ive never had any probs, hth

from what i can see on the wiring diagrams,the idle valve has 4 coils in it each controlled by SCR (switch in laymans terms)within the ecu thus giving 16 possible valve positions 1 , 1+ 2,1+3,1+4, 2,2+3, etc ,all controlled by the ecu SCR,s providing earths,the valve is supplied with constant positive.this must give quite a selection of idles available to the ecu based on input sensors(coolant temp,intake temp,air con,etc),but I cant see this affecting the mixture (rich running),as that must be dependent on the injectors,duration/pulse width,fuel pressure/flow, as you have swapped the ecu and sensors without success, thats why I suggested the fuel enrichment during cranking ,permanently being supplied . could the clicking be coming fron the injectors? as on the jag you can hear them during cranking(fatter injector pulse). The cranking signal to ecu comes from the start relay,this could be isolated by pulling the 7.5 amp fuse -(starter),after the engine has started,its also possible to get a back feed from the immobiliser circuit to the ecu if the immobiliser is tits up,could you disconnect this? if not you would have to remove the pin at the ecu to isolate.hth

pin 77 on ecu-is from starter relay,to give fuel enrichment during cranking,it would kinda explain the symptoms youve got,as it would have almost no effect at wot,and max effect at idle or during lift off, - the answers easier in a murder mystery you just start from the last page , oh and when youve found your problem,every one on here will say "oh I would have checked that first":D

just a thought on your idle mixture problem,is it possible the ecu is getting a false engine cranking signal from the starting circuit,so even though tne starter is out/engine started ,the ecu thinks its still cranking,hence increasing the injector pulses-overfuelling? I think the signal comes from the start relay,could this be the click you are hearing? can you just remove the wire to the ecu and try it -this problem is starting to bug me, its like an unfinished crossword

sticky injector, sounds feasable to me-I guess youll have to pull the plugs,and check for the one which is black as your hat

sorry , hit a sore point there ,i spent 6 months designing the electrical camshaft in the 70s,a lot of work with no internet/faxes,etc, still got the drawings in the loft,being patriotic i tried all the british car manufacturers,only ford (u.s)responded,leyland too busy with that cutting edge design the austin princess! the one shaped like a door wedge.didnt that do well

lotus avt "new"technology, I had this idea 28 years ago ,did all the calcs/ drawings and submitted to about 12 different manufacturers,no interest except from ford who wanted a working model, like i had the cash/time?-solenoid valves will work to a point where reversing the magnetic fields so fast causes the valves to just stop,the answer is to pass a rotating field over the solenoids,not rotating the field in the solenoids,also the magnets very high temp magnets as used in development jet enginebearings,valve lift can then be infinitly variable,as can duration,result no cam required,no belts ,chains,no valve springs,rev limit is when the piston melts,timing controlled off a phonic probe on flywheel at tdc, an oddity is the starter motor needs to be 2 speed, firstly to crank the engine to tdc slowly, at which point the valve solenoids are "aligned",then the starter cranks normally,theres more- ask lotus to ring me - they didnt last time -tossers

sounds like idle air control problem,lost or corrupted signal to ecu could be any of the following sensors; water temp,rpm signal,throttle position sensor,air con clutch,brake light s/w you could measure resistances from ecu to sensors but this would be a pain to do and require a warm engine,plus figures to compare ,probably best get toyota dealers to plug in diagnostic unit. do air con and brake lights work properly? hth

a 500 horse sbc will be running 9mpg:eek:

talk to hampster racing, they do steriod fed hampsters,and wheels with low friction 360 degree roller bearings

there is a swiss made ceramic supercharger that should work on the supe, they put them on the 2.8 golf vr6, try asking stealth racing,they used to fit them, it would be cheaper than a turbo fit hth

well done Tony aka "sparks"

there is a 7.5 amp fuse in circuit that supplies the park/neutral switch and then on to the starter relay contact 1 then fron contact2 to earth via theft deterrent unit, to bypass the p/n switch you could run a cable from a 12v supply to contact 1 of the starter relay and try it, then run an earth to contact2, or just put your hand on the relay and feel if its working or trying to also if you short out contact3 to 5 that should cause the starter to crank proving the main 50 amp supply fuse, hth

It may be the starter , have you tried giving it a" tap", or rocking the car in gear , also didnt you convert from autobox? what about the inhibit switch wire? was that removed/stowed? just a suggestion hth

I had a power steering pump failing at low rpm , after changing the fluid it works fine ,10000 miles ago , so worth a go

deffo interested -as I will need a box that can take big torque

before you lot start having a go at my beloved jags, think what would happen if i spent 10 grand on a 6 litre v12 jag? get outta my way

you are swapping a jag for a supra? are you nuts? just have both:p

I imported a car from malaysia,shipping was about £500 for a container,quite easy really no taxes to pay if you have owned it for 6 months, registration in the uk not a problem,yes there are forms to submit, but not rocket science,suprisingly easy:) there can be a few problems with tyre specs,and "E" marking for cars not sold in europe,but at worst you just get a Q plate as kit cars do

hi supe thanks for asking,progress is being made, brackets all finished now, got the 2 check valves now one for charger output, one for turbo out put, i have been in touch with a company called demag(german i think) who can supply me an elecro clutch which is about the right size/torque,and still maintain balance at14000 rpm and they can make me it in 12volt, they usually do 24volt, (i saw "mr deano" the other day -he lives about 2 miles from me and showed him my charger,he seemed impressed) ive still got to fit a second intercooler to the l/h side -im passing charger air via this one, and turbo air via both, im waiting on an adaptor to be made from an oval shape(charger output flange)to round (pipe work) , i intend to connect it all up using flexi silicon/kevlar hoses which are available,and can be used as hose lengths are all fairly short, ill stop now before i bore you too death you did ask

cost is one problem,also not the easiest stuff to work with ,weld,use with other metals,embrittlement, etc ,turbine blades could be made but who wants to pay 10 grand for a turbo:(