jagman

it may be possible using an oscilloscope with 2 input probes and comparing the waveform shift( timing)-to datalog it unless you use a scope with memory/playback you would have to video it- try carsoft in buckingham may be able to help you- hth

"YOUTH OF TODAY SPOILT ROTTEN":p says jealous over 40 I bet the age trend increases if you were to ask how old when you converted to single turbo?------just shows the older you are the faster you go --- roll on 90

HI and welcome good to see another member in south Wales

ref ignition checking- if you run the car in the dark(ie a garage at night time with the lights) you can sometimes see a glow from the leads which is the leads breaking down- usually they go at the joints in the leads -or sharp bends-wherever there is a joint it will have less insulation resistance this is usually where trouble starts due moisture from condensation which gradually degrades insulation further, quality leads have fully bonded ends-(no joint) and are 100% silicon ,much like synthetic oil spec manufacturers can get away with only 10% silicon content and still market them as "silicon leads" once again you pay for what you get. the ignition on the tt although using coil packs is not everlasting and will break down insulation eventually,but I see few people on here considering replacing them ,despite upping the boost,single conversions,etc , the coil packs work in hot surroundings and are now 8,9,10 years old. I think its worth checking your ignition system or simply replace components for peace of mind

ignition systems tend to lose integrity/insulation resistance over a time most people dont change them as the car still starts and runs fine but it will cause increased mpg-could be that

yes it certainly sounds like the valve seals,but I would attend to them sooner rather than later,because I suspect over time you would get a build up of carbon on pistons,which would get worse over time as the carbon sticks to the baked on carbon,this would effect the efficiency of flow in the head / performance,but I think a worse effect would be to encourage the onset of detonation,especially if you up the boost, as we ALL WILL. It would be interesting to know how much carbon build up there is but I dont think many cars have had the head off to check.after suffering long term stem seal wear. A £400 trip to Dudes seems like a good idea to me-saves covering cats/dogs/kids with a cloud of smoke on start up too

good info on the oils:) can you supply 200 ltr drums? e-mail me a price if you would

I suspect the hks dli system puts a coil (inductor) either in series with or in parallel with the existing coil pack earth return,thus changing the overall inductance/capacitance this will have the effect of lengthening the spark spark duration,but at a reduced spark voltage-cos you cant get something for nothing- a simpler way to increase the spark is to increase the input voltage to say 18 volts but this would have to be matched with the coil pack inductance to increase the the spark duration. -also i think spark frequency will come into it - the v12 jag had to resort to 2 coils to aid high rpm sparks- then again i could be wrong - ill look into it and come up with a definative answer

just posting to recommend, LUCAS OIL stop leak , as cars are now getting on 10 years old , power steering systems will start leaking/groaning ,try the lucas stuff IT WORKS! -unlike most products you buy in a bottle,(esp if its made by comma) Ive used the lucas on all my jags -good stuff oh and its not lucas ( the prince of darkness) electrical products

try BURLEN FUEL SYSTEMS-they should be able to fix you up

I think its all cars post 1986 have to have side repeaters-you may get a dispensation if its an import and not fitted with them

before anyone asks the plated sockets usually on nickel cadmium ,the cadmium can be deposited on the titanium bolt this can cause embrittlement / intergranular weakness in titanium esp in heated enviroment causing early failure of bolts hth

a standard aircraft stainless bolt of about that size would have a torque of 50-80 lb/inch ( 9 ish Nm) reduce the torque by 10-20% for a lubricated installation( dry or wet lube) also titanium fasteners should not be tightened using chrome plated spanners or sockets -like we all got industrial finish sockets-not

tight is the answer, text book torque values can only be used as a guide, the actual torque will vary due 1 the bolts are not new ,2 threadlock applied will vary the torque,3 the grade/quality of the thread/bolt , the accuracy of the wrench, just do em tight and try to keep them even, using a clock torque method a la cylinder head- then re-tighten after running the wheels for a short time

Alex-crd thanks for the reply,just observing the vids again,and thinking....the reaction of the huge torque via the wheels must be to lift the front, transmitted via rear springs then chassis then front springs, wouldnt there also be a drivetrain torque reaction to twist the car ie one front wing up the opposite rear quarter down , ( bear with me I know diddly about dragging) yet the car rises pretty evenly like wise Johns car, I guess you use one hard shock/spring and one softer at rear. it looks to me like the secret to a good launch is the balance between traction at the rear/transmitting the torque to forward motion and not lifting the front against gravity-looks like im gonna have to do some background reading before I set off like "Mr Toad goes drag racing " - do it once do it right

Looks like I missed out on a cracking day out:( looking at the vids this is something I gotta do next year- what a hoot! smoke, noise,adrenalin-just like losing your virginity again:D - seeing the crd supra run seems to me power without control does not work-during the launch the car can be seen lifting on springs rather than transmitting the power forward,compared to Dudes very flat even launch obviously auto is the way to go (sorry 6 speeders:p ) even on the handling circuit way too much power without control those poor back tyres didnt stand a chance! almost zero body roll on the car but the rapid torque build up carlos sainz couldnt of got that round that circuit

I,ve still got a pair of new uk discs(in box) in my garage- £50 if it helps-pm me if you are interested

If you want to give your car a treat try carcoon in manchester,they do an inflateable outdoor cover ,keeps them dry,dust free,even trickle charges the battery!-will cost over£600 though

Monkey , Ive got 5 jags; 69 e-type fhc , two xjc (rare) two xjs v12(not so rare)- youre right they are considered an old man car,why i dont know,when you consider that the v12 can be revved to over 8500 rpm ( if you can produce energy for the ignition)-jags used to be the bank robbers vehicle of choice,then the cops used them,now its only drug dealers who can afford to run them

"an old mans car like a jag"---

I think you might regret not having a supercharger fitted:) far simpler than your present undertaking

I can see a couple of problems 1- when the car is not running and the box is full of dry ice,any moisture in the air in the intake will condense and form a film of ice inside the pipe ready to be ingested . 2 the volume/mass of intake air at ambient temp compared to the volume/ mass of air box at freezing is so large with a contact time of fractions of a second heat transfer will be too small to have any effect. like putting a hot needle in a bucket of cold water. I think fmic water spray will work heaps better

Terry, could you p.m me some prices for these wheels-I saw ,I like. I want

That would be my intercooler,I like the crisp/bin bag analogy:D except consider that the bin bag is connected via a pipe to the vacuum cleaner,kinda puts it in perspective,as syed said its volume of air is not too significant the loss of cooling air to the rad,would be compensated to a degree by the removal of the air con,but till its fitted,and testing carried out is still an unknown. when its fitted ill carry out pre/post intercooler temps and post them on here,Wez -you are right the aftmost core will not be as effective as the more frontal ones ,but they will cool( you should see some of the heat exchangers fitted to large aircraft)plus i intend to fit an i/c waterspray which will help. As the supercharger will be assisting turbo spool I dont see lag being too problematic. As to big big bhp numbers well see,but it wont be for the lack of the coolest/dense air I can get:p

As Rob posted remove return line to reservoir,I used a plastic tube from pipe to a bucket,a lot less messy ,then run at idle, filling until fluid runs out clean