jagman

looks like you still have an earth problem,start by listing the circuits that are affected and look for the common earth point,find where that is located and clean up the terminals and chassis point,also check the earth point on the alarm,and engine earth strap. if an earth point is high resistance(rusty),circuits will find an earth via another circuit connected to that earth ie feed each other- hence horn remaining on hth

as you havent touched anything electrical,just caused by jump starting,as the initial problem,I would look at the alarm especially the earth side,try disconnecting the alarm unit connector,it sounds as if it is shorted to earth,providing an earth to other car functions,horn,hazards,also these functions are usually live without ignition on,hence original jump start problem. you could also pick one circuit ie horn,disconnect the horn earth (the line to the horn switch),replace the fuse ,if horn still on then earth problem is pre relay ,if no horn then earth is in that line,trace that wire back to problem which i suspect will go to the alarm. does that make any sense?

3800 stall converter for sale new in box (PI) -£600 , can be fitted if required

I have a spare cylinder head ,which I could build for you,or have it as a bare head,it has been cleaned,porting is also available but is time consuming/skilled,hence expensive-still cheaper than a new toyota one though!!!

If someone wanted the ultimate battery,I would suggest using an aircraft battery,they are alkaline ,made up of cells of 1.2 volts nominal,they are aerobatic ie will not spill ,have immense current capability (over1000amps with ease)and will not drop off voltage with load,the down side is they are very very expensive £300 a cell new ,and will need a thermal cut out as they can explode!!!, but if you know anyone in aircraft maintenance,they can get the cells for free if they go to the battery bay,as they are deemed unfit for aircraft use below 85% capacity and thrown away. you will not find a lighter more powerfull battery--on large turboprop aircraft they put out over 3000 amps and a 20 cell battery is no bigger than a large car battery (you would need only 10 cells)

click

We had in a six speed supra in today for service/inspection,also had a "tapping noise"- the noise came from the prop shaft way too much play and center bearing knackered. (car had 70000 miles fsh) it may be worth checking your prop if you are getting odd noises on gear changes and over bumpy roads

I saw a couple of supras there,and a load of fit totty,some nice cars in the club area,I was there with my blue mini conv, gotta say there were some totally un-styled cars there,the owners didnt seem to know where to stop adding bits-and some of the car audio!!!!!!

to cooper s engine the cooper is silly money,and a heap of work/bits,we have put a cap of 200 bhp ,because the cost increases rapidly to produce more and we have found the more interest customers have in their cars and the more they want more power/mods ........the less disposable income they have!--every day we get calls "I want a trillion bhp,fantastic handling/brakes,body kit,wheels,etc...etc.. " in fact the moon on a stick ,I ask them their budget....."£199"... I can get them a good stick for that!!!

Hi,I am in the process of developing a turbo kit for the mini cooper,as a budget kit, in collabaration with Amd. turbo/manifold done,ducting, cooler also no problem,just mapping and control to do, has been done using cooper s ecu,but the wiring install looks a mess . I am forced to go to the far east to get kits manufactured,as I cannot get the fabrication done in the uk at a viable cost. we are looking initially at 200 bhp so it would be about cooper s power levels should be available in next few months-trying to keep cost to about £2000-2500, If you have loads of cash we can do a cooper s to 350 bhp,but I have found the first 3 gears almost undrivable with "only" 275 especially in the wet on our shitty roads!!!

I have a spare head at my place,if there was enough interest I could refurb ,or also port and polish,and replace the heads as an exchange item,this would reduce the downtime of your car as the head would be ready to fit and done to your spec.

I agree with johna,flow benches and dynos aint real scenarios,a guide only

sorted!

I have a used one here if it helps,£50,visually looks good condition

I have a used one here ,good nick,£50

the clearances between the tips of the blades and the case on the turbo will vary due to thermal expansion,hence the noise difference,it is possible to keep these clearances constant,but the cost is prohibitive for a car application,also the air density as previously mentioned

strangely enough,I have a complete motor /mechanism/glass etc available

interesting project,perhaps not as radical as mine will end up,tom walkingshaw went along these lines with a jaguar xj12c,he swiss drilled everywhere,first time out; the car fell in half :thumbdown .so some caution is needed. on the upside there is now loads of room in the rear seat area for me to fit coolers,and snorkel feed them using the rear window pane area for a naca vent- as long as I dont rupture a line and spray hot oil inside the whole car -note to self---- must check tighten all unions prior to first engine start

I am cutting the inner doors out,the weight in the looms is astonishing, (all that copper )I reckon about 30-40kg-im just gonna make my own bare minimum loom with lightweight cable(aircraft)-no frills just lights,indicators,etc, ,

no -just the supra-few pics ,some serious weight saving going on!

if you come from mexico you are mexican,if you come from germany you are german,etc etc for all countries except the ivory coast -they dont have one- (nope not even coasters can be used) they just come from the ivory coast!!!!!

nitrous oxide at room temp is stable,it is only explosive at very high temps when the oxygen is separated from the nitrogen, of course it is explosive when mixed with petrol , so is water!!!! any pressurised cylinder becomes dangerous when exposed to fire, hence they have pressure relief valves,for a nitrous bottle to become dangerous in a burning car,the temp and smoke would have already killed you!--- pressurised cylinders are used in aircraft,boats,vans,etc with relative safety, how do divers transport their cylinders? by car? always empty? and they contain oxygen!,I know aviation oxy is transported full. I suspect there are more injuries and deaths caused by the good old gas barbeque,and how many of us have slung the gas bottle in the back of our car? now that would be exciting in the event of a rear end crash...

quality wood will last a zillion years, and will naturally age and colour, but costs plenty, I used french oak 4" thick -well sturdy, the wicks/b&q timber will require reprotecting every so often , which can take as long as building the fecking thing,and may last as long as 20 mins, but is far cheaper-perhaps you could look at railway sleepers? there must be a .co .uk somewhere

you must inform your insurance co that you have it fitted to the car,as far as i am aware there are no insurance companies that will insure you with nitrous for road use, so you use it only for "off road" use -(usually the car isnt insured off road anyway) quite how the insurance would know you are using it on the road is almost impossible, short of videoing your own accident? or telling them. As Gaz said a compressed gas sign must be fitted externally, other than that I think thats it as the gas is basically inert-BOC wont refill , apparently because some kids sniff the stuff.......what a world we live in!!!!!

360 bhp- if it stays together-dynos can trash engines