jagman

It works - and it's cheap , I'm doing an engine mount on my Audi , next week , I use aircraft fuel tank sealant , type of non silicon rubber , everything proof ,and tough as old boots - downside is once it's on ,it's a mare to get off , hands , clothes and anything it touches - I have plenty if you want a tube (work skip them once lifex) but they still have about 50 years before they are unusable - lol Come in a kit for a normal skeleton gun , push a plunger in pump handle which pushes the hardener in , then pump for two mins to mix and then into your gun and away you go ... 24 hours to cure

http://www.suspension.com/blog/do-it-yourself-liquid-urethane-motor-mount-replacement-inserts/

Could you not fill the voids of a stock one or existing one with polyurethane? ie make your own

Jet fuel is tax free ........so save yourself a fortune and don’t drive to work , just fly off on holiday every week !!! Or buy a Learjet and laugh at the taxman . We only use 16 billion litres of that really green jet fuel each year

something like the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm split - this would allow fuel to be pumped into the intake via the vacuum line and from there fuel would go places you dont want it within the air system on boost and vacuum -injectors are not the only way in for fuel

http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/society/builder-does-eight-hour-day-for-charity-20180524173488

Car in epoxy coat - this coat is a bit like spraying a “glue” coat , it is also non porous - with bare metal it is needed to rust proof , and should go on as fast as possible , normal filler/primer or high build primers are porous , so corrosion can build up under your top coats - Fail This is what you get new replacement panels finished in or factory puts on prior to primers . The whole car was done and then into primer and guide coats

The interior came from a show car , it's a bit in your face as it is leather everywhere, must have cost a small fortune originally - but it is well made . Contrast stitching is a red/purple I'm not 100% that the cream colour goes with the OEM black plastics , originally the black plastics were done in cream , and it was way too pimp - I'm experimenting with carbon , specifically adding dye to the top coat epoxy layers and tinting it - so it's black carbon but with a purple sheen in light - I've got rolls and rolls of carbon , some if different colours - so trying different combos It's a nice effect with dyed topcoats but takes forever to do

I will pop some pics up as I go of the more interesting or unusual things , most things have been done before , so you have to think outside the box to "custom " build projects

The stock lights are projectors but the optical performance is poor , newer projectors are much better , it is a bit of a job to replace them , chopping out the originals and bonding in new ones ,(using the same diameter projectors ) - the lights need to be opened up Once the projectors are in any bulb works better

Yep , they have been fitted and blended along with the rear /sills and arch gaps sorted , I used some aerospace products for this , the downside is ,it cannot now be put back to stock - carbon work in progress

How did you check for boost leaks and did you go over 16 psi?

This design requires airbrush work to fade colours, and shading to get a 3 D effect and also putting into the headlight and across front , through rear lights and across.

At some point , I had to choose what colour I want to go with , so after some time I decided to go with an old school design - years ago it was popular to go two colours , I remember an old Rover p5b coupe that a neighbour had Purple over silver . It is very very difficult to do two colours on a car and not all cars suit it ...... So a few hours google images for inspiration ... and I found a design I liked , and stole it

The car had corrosion in the passenger side sill, the rest of the underneath was in good order , I got a new sill from Toyota , but they only do a repair section for insert welding , so I got a complete sill from Keron , which extended beyond the area of corrosion , this was stripped , inspected and insert welded to the original structure. Why only one side corroded - I think it’s probably down to being the kerb side of the car so gets more water and crud ,plus cars lean this side due the road camber and makes a water trap . If supra buying - a good area to check as it’s not an easy repair.

You can fit higher wattage bulb in stock - crap You can fit HID bulbs in stock - blue crap You can fit LED in stock - white crap You can fit HID in new projector - now we can see at night You can fit LED in new projector - oh yes You can retro fit new OEM from another modern car (with projector-D2S and such) - just like any modern car - you can see great at night . You can retro for spanking new look round corner matrix lights - but would cost more than a new car . Morimoto projector and bulb and ballast is probably the best cost/performance , or just do nothing and wipe out small mammals at night

Inside :

Previously:

In your case it’s not so much the boost level as the duration on boost , road use you cannot maintain the boost as you get arrested quick smart , on track it’s repeated boosting for longer durations - heat builds in the turbine housing . Boost level max is dictated by the speed of the turbo , and it’s design (map) - to go higher you need to alter the compressor efficiency - this means shaping the airflow into the compressor and injection of water - I would like to exceed 3 bar In multistage compressors shaping is done by altering angle of attack on each stage , but our compressors only have one “stage” and it’s centrifugal

The car started as a stock auto TT , from here it had a rebuilt engine , bottom end , cams and the usual engine upgrades internally , single turbo ( precision 67) boostlogic manifold , injectors , pumps , fmic and so forth . Next was a boostlogic gearbox , rebuilt and included new billet sprags , Kevlar clutch pack and such . U.K. brakes , coil overs added , then a custom leather complete interior, roof and all. The mandatory 3 piece rims , deep dish added . So now at low boost 1.1 bar mapped up to around 520 hp and similar torque . At this point I decided to run much much higher boost , so I spent a few years doing research, many papers read and as much info I could get talking to people who have been in the very high boost area at a professional level. During this time I collected the necessary parts and and data collection equipment- Some things have been started already , such as the twin intercooler system both air and water(charge cooler),and a twin coolant stat system , other bits I will explain as I go . Much is based on CHT data , so 6 thermocouples are monitoring this for thermal loading . Now I’m doing the body work , over the years one sill developed holes and needed doing so I thought sod it , I will address the whole car , go wider rear , new front , skirts and so forth .... So then the car was stripped to a million bits , wings off , glass off , and much bare metal ...... bodywork progressed - now decide to custom paint with air brush work and carbon fibre work ,coloured clear coat over carbon, soda blasting work , the bare metal dictated the use of epoxy primer work (the correct way of doing this ) So plenty of things that people may be interested in ...pictures will need putting in sequence

My car is currently in body shop for work , not the normal simple respray , but a more complex job , panel blending , some custom stuff , carbon work , air brush work , bare metal strip and sill repairs - it could be of interest in the project section for those wanting to see how bodywork progresses and then in the engine modification area post bodywork . It may even put people off going down this route due to the cost and complexity involved :blink: It's never easy or fast or cheap!!!! Lots is done already and on the home straight ..

Larger discs will dissipate heat better simply via a larger surface area , but forced air cooling would work far better , a simple elect fan (£30) some flexi duct pipe and most critically a means of directing the air exactly onto the disc centre - some bracket/mounting on the dust plate ,the closer to the disc the better - The negatives are few, mainly extra heat is pushed into your wheel rim and heats tyres but this will vary depending on clearance of your wheels ,spoke design and a host of things beyond your control - lots go bigger at large cost , few add extra forced cooling at low cost

The boost cut is controlled by the stock ECU at a set voltage (this varies a bit car by car) , this voltage comes from the map sensor via the emanage - the emanage acts as a voltage limiter making sure the ECU won't see the cut voltage So a few simple voltage checks ie what's going into emanage , what's coming out of the emanage to the stock ECU ? What are the the settings on the emanage to limit the voltage ? Things like the cam and crank sensors can also cause limiter/misfires , if the crank sensor is wired backwards ie pos to neg and neg to pos or loss of the screen on the cable - this causes high rpm misfire at the same rpm on load - again a simple con check of screen and pos neg before replacement . These snags can be a mare and end up simply replacing components after wire checks - gets expensive and time consuming - I've chased a misfire for ages before .

sold !!