jagman

Wonder if the relief valve is the same pressure in both 1jz/2jz. That's the thinking that will provide the solution, it's the differences between the two engines. The 1jz came out first , all design work was done here and this R &D carried over to the 2JZ , the engines are so similar and to keep costs down of course Toyota carried over material specs,tooling ,and data from one to another , the 2jz was not done from scratch . The 1J is at least 3 years older so "wear" issues would be higher not lower , the pump /seal/oil pressure/relief . Squirters and so on are I believe too similar . The 2jz leaks are not a common thing so not any major flaw , but a hidden some have some don't type thing - that's why I thinks it's a harmonic type issue - the block is higher and the crank different and different harmonics which in a very few cars causes leaks and moves the seal lip under the exact right (rare) conditions .

You still have to look at why the 1jz does not suffer with this problem ? - all the same factors apply , different oil used, high miles,old seals , high boost , crankcase pressure , and so on - what works on the 1jz must point to what does not work on the 2Jz

Front aligned and test fitted

The pads should have even wear , and surface even surface wear , the pads should retract clear of the disc on both sides ie the heat is evenly spread across the disc and no bap bap bap noises on braking

If you hammer the brakes and come to a stop , put the car in N and use hand brake , coming to a stop and leaving your foot on the brake to stop the car creeping forwards could cause warpage as the pads pull heat out of the disc on contact area and disc cools unevenly . You would have to hammer the brakes to do this though , sure your pistons are moving evenly ?

The failures seem to voltage connected ( low volts will effect all sensors) - so earths as suggested , starting with the battery and then supply voltage check - the ECU plug would be a good place to check and check it for any pushed back pins (I have had that ) Probably not as hard as it first seems , need man with a meter and wire diagrams

Ha ha , the question still stands - why doesn't the 1 jz leak oil , many are BPU / single - the oil pump and seal arrangement is probably identicle ,part numbers are 2 digits different but I suspect the same item and same spec . They run the same high oil pressure , have super high milers around and must have the same wear aspects in rings ,crank pressure and so on - Google shows not one failure bar a reengined car with a 2jz

Statistically the average person has less than 2 legs !!!

Well the 1jz has an almost identicle set up and they very rarely fail , not heard of one failure , even when they were sub a thousand pounds to buy and ragged crazy with 99p spent on maintenance on boost pushed up like mad , so points to some harmonic flex that they dont get

looks fine to me , if well converted , and you can see at night with better headlights! , not a fan of the rear wing , each to their own

f that's true and it's not purely rev/rpm related, but rev's under load then we are back to boost pressure (and 'possible' crank case pressure) having some affect aren't we? The boost pressure provides the air flow which provides the torque and thus bhp by multiplying by revs , so look at the torque curve - BPU or single turbo , the torque curves rise higher and faster(the slope of the curve vs rpm) , so a faster change of torque with time =acceleration this is loading the engine crank /pulley damper/oil pump and so on , harmonics could come into play and move things around a bit ,flex things and thus cause seal problems , on a pot luck basis as no 2 engines will be exactly the same so not oil pressure ,vent pressure vac , boost level,or rpm but a harmonic movement due acceleration or change of torque it would be intersting to compare autobox and manual gearbox oil seal failure rates

Not well known but AET do their own billet version of the GTX with some small blade alterations ,ive used two on different cars both made circa 40 hp over expected normal GTX

I Suspect the issue is due to an increase in acceleration and load - this is adding some inbalance or sideload to the oil pump and it effects the seal - so any bpu or single conversion has both an increase in acceleration and torque as the turbo comes on boost -pot luck weather or not it effects your oil pump -down to too many variables and clearances and temps NA problems would be simple wear /oil

worth condsidering AET turbos version of the GTX , the two i have used made more power than the stock versions

FEDEX , only made 1 billion dollars , and their CEO has seen the jet that the DHL CEO has ordered - he wants one as well because he has loads of golf tournaments to go to coming up , he hasn't heard about the kids pony yet ,so there is some hope

Why do business's charge crazy fees for postage from the USA to the UK ? DHL profits were only 3.7 billion euro , and the CEO wants a new jet and his kids need pony lessons , damn those animals can eat!!

It's the latest trend , the gypsy caravan look , you lot are just not on trend ,another year and there will be polished brass all over Supras - remember under car lighting ....

There are many things in an economic bubble , driven by economic policies , the bubbles will burst as policy changes and reality hits ... a deflationary collapse followed by a reflation cycle very large asset price changes .... I am just waiting ,saving cash to buy a Bentley continental when this happens ... should be the mother of all bargain buys and cash is king I cant be the only one who sees whats happening on a weekly basis , on the high street ,the large corporations , tax avoidance ,tax payers subsidising basically everything ,coming trade wars, all time low interest rates,all time low savings,all time low unemployment with no pay rises,job shedding in the thousands ,zombie companies,1.2 million people in food banks ,crypro currencies,while the world keeps printing money and debts rising . Swampy is right, of course it has to stop and timing is everything , looking to JAPAN for any idea on prices ...........well they were the people who valued their housing equal to the rest of the whole world ,and the imperial palace land the whole of california ! -lol needless to say it all went pete tong

I think the soarer abs sensors will work , any differences will be in the loom mounting clips/rubbers but not rocket science to adapt - these are plentiful used in the USA due to the sc300/400 models there , usually around the £30 mark used and £200 mark new - low weight and Jiffy bag postage should not cost that much to ship to UK - if people get stuck locating them in uk

Ive had HI FI /AV stuff for decades , and over the years collected stuff , far too much stuff for any reasonable person to have !! , mostly British stuff ,all high end offerings and about 4 bang and olufsen systems and about 12 B&O speakers - I would suggest skipping all the old "system" offerings , AMPS/DAC/SPEAKERS at al ,and go straight to the DEVIALET phantom gold ... its wireless and the speaker contains all the amp/DAC/power supply , its not that big to look at , simply plugs into mains and sits on its stand ...connect to your iphone or whatever and play - It is astounding , how one speaker can sound like it does is bewildering ...a £2000 speaker that you could spend £40000 on other makers gear and still not match . 4500 watts , yes 4500 watts with 0 distortion ,108db ,and down to 14hz .......its like driving a fiesta all your life and then trying a big single supra The only thing better I can think of is to buy a pair if you have a room big enough , if looking for hi fi ,go check one out at a dealers I am hooking up a pair to my AV but its a unique install ,as I am having a full size cinema screen ,which most people could not do due to space requirements

https://use.zerniq.nl/upload/www.vialle.nl/downloads/2479-6-ENG-LR.pdf

The LPI system (injected lpg) would not only provide cheaper running but increase power too , allows higher boost due latent heat of vaporisation and octane level - downside is small tank capacity , not a problem in this case and upper limit on power levels due limited injector availability ,again not a problem here It was available as an OEM alternative on Subaru and some Australian cars - made good power too another advantage is it runs clean and keeps engines internally clean of carbon Dutch company does it at fairly reasonable cost , not sure if the London emission charge is still zero with LPG , but as that is going up by £12 daily within the circular in a couple of years may be a big payback

It's hard to suggest what to do without knowing the layout , is it drive plus parking and how much drive versus how much parking , lastly the layout you have already is there an existing drive ? The ground work depends on what you have already and so does the cost . I always like to think a bit out of the box - the plastic reinforce grids come in about £8800 , these are fast laying 75sq M per hour , so labour costs reduce , but they are designed for gravel /pebbles infill - relatively cheap and easy I would look at poured concrete into the plastic grids , something like £10000 , but the grid would support the concrete and reduce the need for shuttering and become very strong . Not pretty as its concrete , so leave a top gap of 5 - 10 cm , now you can choose the top layer - gravel chippings (cheap) or the rubber chip in colours , maybe edge in brick . Maybe a higher spec in parking areas or near house and lower for access road ? Got to be 20k plus for the rubber layer more if you put complex patterns or logo like supra parking only ! -depends on size As long as a slope for water runoff is added should last decades , whatever you do it's a dear job due size , and finding builders - good luck

Maybe contact a plastic recycler in UK and design your own grid panel , get 1100 done at the depth you need ,after all it doesnt have to outlast the roman roads and you wont see any of it -pour in ready mix once down and rubber top coat in whatever colour you want -I would not go YELLOW , you will only attract Munchkins, tin men ,lions et al every day !!!!

Your problem is the size , it will cost a small fortune , not knowing your ground condition or existing drive maybe https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjkwc6q3sTbAhVEyRQKHbseCLYQFghxMAs&url=https%3A%2F%2Fbritishrecycledplastic.co.uk%2F&usg=AOvVaw1HwRb9yhlOnFHLymicZLdR recyled plastic as a base cemented down and top filled with the recycled rubber pellets to finish -rubber crumb https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj3tMiZ38TbAhUDPBQKHbz9CL0QFggyMAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fecopaving.com%2Fdriveway-paving-cost%2F&usg=AOvVaw0ZH5Sk0XJaeJt3t08dM-0b