jagman

On rubbers it prolongs them due to a barrier for oil water UV light , road de icing salts , so basically you can cover everything bar bearings - I have covered everything diffs , driveshaft , arms , boots, calipers , brake cables wire looms connectors all with no problems at all - many times over - I have also done disc rotor (the inner part and the edge and cooling slots with no detrimental effects ) paint it on with an artists brush ) -it's fabulous on wheel inners and FMIC /oil coolers/Ali rads

I have used AV8 for many many years , it works , and is fast to do - Choose where you spray it carefully , it's a liquid and drips for a few mins - it will dry on your drive and you won't get it off , plastic sheet below or do it on gravel ( it will stain gravel but you can brush the gravel over hiding the dinitrol) You won't get it off clothes , no matter what you wash them with so old T shirt or paper overalls , it's a mare to get off skin -gloves and if it drops on your hair - haircut may be necessary Door panels a light spray at the top and it runs down the whole door - open them and put a cloth under the drain hole , boot floors remove the Bung / grommet at the bottom and place a rag below , when in the boot spray the rear inner wing area , and let it run down , if you can try to get into the wheel arch lips front and rear . The Lower radiator xmember is a favourite for rust , coat this area and fuel /brake lines If it goes on exhaust , it smells for a bit but will burn off The real problem areas are the sills and access is very hard , I have just drilled a big hole before with a hole cutter , sprayed inside and then dipped a rubber Bung in av8 and popped it in and let it dry I'm probably the only owner of series 2/3 Jag XJ6/12 parked outside with spaceship miles and no rust !!! And a gravel drive which will also never rust , well the outline of a car bit anyway -lol

There are some differences to the wiring between soarer and supra and facelift supra - the soarer the main ECU is supplied by IG2 from the ignition switch ,the supra uses IG1 contact , the soarer has the fuel pump suplied via its FPECU via the EFI MAIN RELAY , this is controlled by the ECU and has a built in delay to shut off the fuel pump of a couple of seconds , this is to keep a prime fuel pressure ready for the next start on switch off - what chris said : some crossover is holding the ignition live in place of the fuel pump

Dinitrol AV8 - http://www.virginia.edu/cese/research/CPC%20Report.pdf This is exactly what you want , see link for pictures of its leeching ability between joints - no removal of parts It was developed years ago for aircraft , non aerosol - so you can put it in a plastic trigger sprayer (£1) and off you go , no negative effects on plastics or rubbers and can go over hoses and lines , it will protect rubber bushes and prolong life of them - just do not spray on bearings - it's not a lubricant . Wheel wells are sprayed in the stuff , high speed water is flung off wheels into this area , deicing fluids are also flung into this area - it does exactly what you want it to do . A golden transparent film is formed and drys in about 1 hour - a hard coating that will last years , it can be removed with a solvent and rag - it's a mission to get it off hair/clothing/hands New allow wheels - it's perfect for the inner surfaces , leeches into bolts on 3 piece rims and gives a gloss even coating - no brake dust worries ever , 5 years later wipe off with solvent = wheels like new !! It's cheap it's fast it's easy and it works - in one hour you can do the whole car - under the radiator is a good spot and the lower radiator,FMIC Ali won't corrode - it's not the prettiest stuff, better on brand new surfaces as it traps dirt on surfaces -but over existing black under seals barely visible - Lazy mans corrosion protection - exactly what you are looking for

The flaking of aluminium is called exfoliation corrosion - once the surface is penetrated the corrosion spreads along the length just under the surface , it causes a visible bulging , eventually large chunks just fall off and it's like cheese underneath , soft and grey/white - coatings prevent this happening , clad aluminium and chemical conversion coatings like Alodine

Oh yes aluminium does perforate and flake , I've spent half my life checking for exactly that, lol - aircraft skins also have the added issues of Coca Cola,deicing fluids,urine,various chemicals,acids and alkalis , salt water (carrying things like fish) , and constant water - warm air inside and minus 50 degrees outside causes massive condensation which runs down to the bottom and to drains . That's why we use Alodine,etch primer,paint , alclad ,dinitrol and millions of man hours checking for corrosion Mercury is about the worst thing , a thermometer spill can cut through Ali like cheese ,salt water not far behind

Dinitrol AV8 is the answer £35 a tin for a complete car

Start with the ignition switch - it has a few contacts each send power to different circuits , IG1 I think (black yellow wire feeds the instrument supply fuse - IG2 is working as the car starts

Very poor show from car manufactures , during build a simple coating brushed on the aluminium with alodine solution before painting and there endeth the corrosion problems - aircraft are aluminium skins and parked outside 99% of the time - they don't fall out of the sky with holes in the skin every day even at 40 or 50 years old !

Often power steering issues are down to the reservoir , in the reservoir is a steel wool/mesh type filter material - over time this clogs with brown gloop . The faster the pump runs the more fluid has to pump and return ie flow - now the clogged filter restricts and the power steering won't run - I have had this on 3 separate cars In the first place remove the filter material , remove the reservoir and clean it with a solvent - derv works , then refit and top up the fluid , check there is a good return flow to the reservoir , you can see it with the cap off . This should be a routine thing every ten years or so

Start with the battery positive - that’s what has been disturbed ,the positive supplies - the alarm,the car ignition , and the starter motor , all three need a good positive connection -

If someone wants gold badges etc it is possible to gold leaf them , 24karat gold leaf kits are around £12 , you get a brush , size, and leaf pad with about a dozen sheets - a steady hand and cotton buds , if you are ham fisted ,just don't ...

There are two different impeller materials - the non metallic ones supposed to be better , oem and non oem castings seem to be the same poor level Cheap enough , just replace at around 70 k along with the alternator (another rare poor quality Toyota thing)

Yes - the drain is there to show a leak in the bearing seal and prevent a pressure build up that could pop the bearing seal out - these pumps are one of the crappiest I’ve seen and only last 100000 miles - change them before this mileage . By crappy, 1 they don’t last ,2 any overtight belt /too short belt and the housing cracks , the bolt layout is crap , and I had jag pumps from 1962 work as new and you can balance them !!

Drain for any water passing the bearing - it’s open

Highly likely to be the battery earthing , not so weird because everything works before it fails to work ?

When under the car - check the selector arm is correct - there is a red line and marks that align ie when you select D the gearbox is in D and so on

ATF - not gear oil , Toyota do their own but dextron works - disconnect line from bottom of radiator and put it in a bucket - put a tube in dipstick to your new fluid bottle - start engine and pour in fresh fluid as the fluid is pumped out the bottom . Once nice clean fluid is pumped out - stop , top up to dipstick marks . Check for the leak , probably best do this before filling and after . You have no warning lights like OD flashing so , no faults are being seen by the ECU ( it's not possible for the ECU to see an oil leak or fluid aerating) The line pressure varies on throttle position and speed of the gearbox turning , so shift is dependent on these , Ie wrong throttle position gives wrong shift or no shift due wrong line pressure , but the fluid must be correct level and air free to start with

Wiring diagrams are available on line - just follow the wire colours there to connect the correct feeds to the correct lights - lose the scotch locks as they are one of the crappiest ideas ever invented and cause all sorts of issues

Oil leak can allow air into the system , the fluid can then aerate inside the box , this can lower the line pressure and it needs this pressure to shift So first bleed the fluid - add fluid via dipstick and pump out the old fluid into a bucket - fill the system and check while running , then retest the shift

I think circa £50 a disc - and yes it does work , also worth it on some engine components if engine building

http://www.frozensolid.co.uk

Braking performance is unaffected, the supercooling alters the structure of the metal , no micro cracking or warping - maybe nitrac can do them - no brainer for expensive discs due tripled lifespan

It would be worth you getting your discs Cryo treated - few days in liquid nitrogen - 3 x disc life , 50% on pad life and no warping

My lad lives in Japan ,he has a Japanese wife - personally I would source an engine or such and have him ship it , there are issues with some items oil filled or gas filled (shocks) which mean they cannot be shipped via auction internationally but can be domestically shipped - I am going at least 6 monthly to Japan , so just coordinate with a visit . Still not cheap !