jagman

Ive had both Shogun and l200 , the shogun was a far better build, the L200 s are assembled in Tailand and dont seem to be upto the Shogun build quality , that said it was good ,and had the 2.8 (import ) engine which I think is better than the 2.5 , If I had to choose... then the shogun every time ... I covered 300000 miles without problems (3.5 v6)

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-11935539 the internet fights back .....

Nuwaubianism,The Church of Euthanasia,Prince Philip Movement,Church of the SubGenius,Nation of Yahweh,Scientology, Thee Temple ov Psychick Youth,Rastafarian,wikka, and followers of the Badger ,Moonies, Does one respect them all ? Surely someones gotta be wrong and in fact all out full blown nutters!! -LOL , or maybe its me !! and they have it right ,,, I think they all started out believing in Ghosts,LOL ,

"just because science hasn't been able to prove/disapprove it's existence doesn't mean it can't exist, and i don't personally believe science in the conventional sense will ever come up with a definitive answer." and yet you can get a degree in the subject? a subject with no definitve answer ,How can you fail such a qualification , as how can the examiners possibly use existing science to mark the paper ? -lol . there is a huge cash prize available for mediums ,if they can use their "powers" to predict a sequence of flip cards with symbols on it ; square,star,triangle etc , many have tried ,done the shaking ,vacant stares,and the whole routine,,, but not one person has actually got anywhere close ...... you dont need an O level to work that one out !!

External scientists and skeptics have criticized the discipline as being a pseudoscience because, as they see it, parapsychologists continue investigation despite not having demonstrated conclusive evidence of psychic abilities in more than a century of research,, Ah well maybe next century ,,,,

qualifed paranormal investigator ,,,,, love to see the exam paper for that one ,LOL , is it a practical exam , like a load of people in a dark room going ,,,, Hushh ,what was that ......

I think you need to decide what exactly you have and what exactly you wish for, trying to simply chase high bhp numbers can result in a very high and narrow power band , thats OK for specialist use like drag racing or track racing but can be a mare on the road , a wide power band is much better in most cases with progressive power . Many aftermarket parts have little actual long term testing and only fitted to very few cars , confidence wise : there are known issues like water pumps,crank pulleys,coil packs etc , and the biggest benefit is clean , clean oilways,water ways,bores,valves,pistons , bearings . renew moving parts ,belts,tensioners,etc and you have a now gone a long way towards reliability and confidence ,,, Find a tuner and they can advise on what you have and why you are down on power ,and replace the necessary parts for reliability , money is easy spent but seldom wisely spent !!

"the state of engine tune has me concerned though have a reciept for pistons and rods,i guess it's just new stock rods then! all i can say is i feel a stroker kit comin on! " JUST new rods!!!! - I can only find 2 rod failures on this whole forum , and both have not been confirmed as the rod itself failed , one was at 30psi and 8000 rpms !! and all despite some serious bolt on tuning and abuse on unknown stock engines at high miles over the years

The stupidity of the masses knows no limits ..... the patient infomation sheets needs pictures , preferably cartoons .....and even then there is one in every village ,,,,,,,,

you can run 2 nozzels but remember pre charger is a vacuum and post charger is under boost pressure , the most important thing is the size of the droplets , smaller the better . post charger you need the finest possible spray and the water/meth must not be made to turn or change direction , slow in speed and touch the minimum surfaces , not easy !!! smaller droplets of water have greater surface area versus larger droplets and they absorb the latent heat much faster - the time element in vapourisation is often missed . How much better for vapourisation? ..... a smaller droplet say 10 microns versus a 50 micron droplet could have multiple times better effect in heat extraction within the time requirement - keeping droplets small is not easy as they easily get bigger and merge . pre intercooler causes the droplets to become very turbulent and spin around ,slow down ,touch loads of surface area and get bigger the opposite of what you want . Always try to kill heat at source or it becomes harder,

The pre comp water is part of the project, its the shaping/control of the air that is as important ,much like variable turbine air control ,but on the compressor side and you need velocity for that to work well , a combination of effects in total

4. Does anyone do/know anyone that would be able to surface grind shims for me? At the moment it looks like I'll have to change most of the shims and at nearly £10 each it's a lot of money if surface grinding was a cheaper alternative for the same thing. I have resurfaced shims using a sheet of glass and fine emery paper, then used coarse grinding paste , but it takes ages and you rub off your finger print on your index finger, by the time you have taken a few thou off , the 10 quid seems cheap !! ,,,,,But it did work

various people have had various results ,droplet size and compressor diameter would always change the rate of erosion, but the potential is always there ,and its only one aspect of what I am trying to achieve

bit of an overview if anyones interested! ; Water Meth injection pre compressor works , its been done, BUT there are some issues ; Compressor blade erosion - this can happen at the blade tips and leading edges , where the blade speed is high and size of the droplets too large it simply erodes the material of the blades . what has been done is to spray water /meth into the center of the compressor wheel (where the speed is slower) and use as fine a spray as possible - down to around 10 microns Problem ;water droplets coalesce , ie they merge together into larger droplets , so 2 x10 micron droplets can easily join to make a 20 micro droplet , and so on , This makes the distance from spray nozzel to compressor critical as if too far away then coalescence becomes greater . Also if the spray hits any solid parts like the intake pipe it will again coalesce on contact . Any "pooling" of water when the spray is shut off also can cause problems . As a possible solution ; I want to pass the water/meth through a very high speed fan , this will shatter the droplets into smaller droplets ,and accelerate the spray to circa 140 mph , the velocity increase will stop the water coalescing , there is not enough time for the water to change state at high velocity , this removes the distance criteria between spray and compressor . Note the fan is not a pressure increasing fan , but a velocity fan , it would load the blades too much if it tried to pressure This faster moving air now has the potential to be 'shaped" and matched to the compressor , (too much explanation needed) unlike the slower moving normal intake air ,and to a point will offload the compressor at the early part of the spooling .(again too much explanation needed) There will be in effect 2 intakes one siamesed into the other ,one fan assisted and one not , the turbo compressor will always out run the fan air/water so then use the normal intake , merging the two flows is complex. The goal is to improve the spool time and improve/extend the compressor map ,raise boost , and remove the FMIC ,all with less det - the charge cooler is there as a belt and brace so should water /meth run out then there is still post compressor cooling and allow a lower boost level still to be used , a secondary water meth injection is also to be fitted pre throttle body . Enhanced cooling later ..more later As you can see much testing is needed and I can find no reference to anyone ever trying this method ,anyway thats the overview in brief of the initial phase

I dont think you get to go drifting a Ferrari for an hour or so?

Got to start somewhere ? so start from there , in the absence of lots of instrumentation , then run on a dyno on load at a fixed rpm , then use a laser spot temp gun and measure the temps ; intake,charger case , exhaust manifold runners ,cylinder head, -alter the WI and get new sets of temps and compare temps

yes for sure good gains to be had ,but so little information and testing has been done especially with the roots charger , you are on your own here ,that comes with pioneering !! start small and work up , much dyno time will be needed , and unknown effect with droplets size,satutation point , AFR reduction, timing changes and in cylinder temps - due low speed of the charger erosion is not a problem ,or angle of incidence and the air wont go near mach 1 ,so much simpler in many ways than a turbo I would use a small pre charger spray and larger post charger spray - you have linear boost so less complex , try it and see what works!!

the above does not apply in your case as they relate to centrifugal compressors,and have different conditions to satisfy -a good read , but they are using the wrong solutions for things like erosion ,and coalescence - there are greater gains to be had with pre and post compressor WI .

porsche 944s2 or turbo , good balance and not expensive ,often used as track cars as they work well

"The German chancellor, Angela Merkel, has warned for the first time that her country could abandon the euro if she fails in her contested campaign to establish a new regime for the single currency, the Guardian has learned." ,,,,,,,,, Oh shock , see above , the game continues,,,,

The first problem with aftermarket elect pumps is they are non specific , the original set up was designed and tested for the supra engine by Toyota . First they designed the system to warm up quickly and in balance ,ie the block and head both kept at a rate of heat extraction relative to each other, this is then kept throughout the rev range . the waterways in the head were again sized and flowed to keep balance within the head, hot areas given more cooling ,and each waterway made with calculation and testing for back pressures and flows . Then they thermally tested the bejesus out of it with the flow ranges of the mechanical pump , and probably upto around 500-600 bhp if the design limits were in fact this high . The mechanical pump is self regulating , the higher the revs the higher the flow to cool /extract heat , its geared also to take in the non linear heat gains with rpms , and then flow controlled by the stat itself . the bypass water was also tested and designed to suit the engine . Some cars have specific elect water pumps , but these are usually ecu controlled and have heated thermostats ,all to gain close temp control , no overcooling and no overheaating no imbalance between head and block. The bigger rads simply delay warmup ,but offer NO extra flow thru the engine or no extra cooling , colder stats simply open earlier ,but still restrict flow How do you retain the heat balance with an elect pump with different flows than the stock system? how well do they keep the balance .what about warm up if no stat fitted? bypass water Adequate cooling is a major thing for detonation and the whole engine life , pushing up power needs more heat extraction too much can fail without it , one reason I am doing a dual stat arrangement on my car - still thinking about your oil

"Pre charger water/meth injection = denser air = more O2 @ lower pressure = larger pulley = less work for belt. More O2 @ lower pressure = less detonation and keeps the s.c. @ around 13psi (peak efficiency) to achieve 500ftlb (maybe). " not quite , its a fixed volume,but now denser, so pressure would not be lower , the load on the charger would be higher ,so more torque on the belt , any belt slip is more likely at the high rpms . Detonation is more likely with higher C/R , due more heat generated, but the water /meth will work against det, larger pistons are more det prone ,but you cant do much about that, higher rpms are less det prone (bonus) but the charger pumping losses cause more heat , its all balancing . Heat extraction from the head is a real problem , you cant rely solely on plugs ,you need enhanced heat extraction ie better water cooling ie more flow of water ,and you dont have oil squirters to cool the piston ,so much more heat is transfered via rings , you need much more water cooling than the TT and much more oil cooling for rings , However you have a charge cooler- so cool water is available for oil cooling as oppose to hot coolant

You have lost me there !, the charger is a fixed displacement, lets say 1 litre , so it can only ever move 1 litre volume of air per rotation, ie pump , the 1 litre contains 30% oxygen , it can only move this amount , the density of the air will determine the amount of o2 in the 1 litre , the density is down to the temperature and altitude , water meth into the intake cools the charger, it heats due the compression at the outlet and heats the whole charger ,and air within it , water/meth cools the charger and the the air passing through it making denser air , same 1 litre but denser = more o2 = more power - the CFM is the same as the same volume and same rpm belt slip is due the torque on the pulley ,this increases with speed ,pumping losses increase with speed ,and efficiency decreases with speed The water/meth will reduce detonation allowing greater boost ,and reduce heat losses,clean carbon from pistons,allow greater timing ,and leaner AFR, The boost pressure is determined by the restriction to flow within the engine , ie put a bung in the exhaust , high restriction , so the boost rises , but flow reduces , porting the head flows more so the boost drops but more power is made for example . The boost is also a function of the throttle opening , its all similar but different from turbos

I have a spare one if you want one

Ive heard that Santa is looking for a helper ,with a 4x4 , not piece work,and only until the 24th , optional sleigh bells may be needed,and the ability to go ;"ho,Ho,ho"