jagman

Paint was a house of kolor purple ,I had 4 or 5 test mixes done ,with different levels of pearl /flake , until I got the exact result I wanted in daylight /sun - a one off really . It’s all rock hard now . Once all back together ,just a ceramic finish to add . now I have a bit of time for the car , the last push over the next few months . I have boxes of stuff to fit ,many parts I am just fitting new as I can’t be bothered refurbing and it’s faster . So brand new UK brakes all round , I have CW pads , brand new shocks …I have gone with Tein and have the latest EDFC 5 with GPS ,AI and quieter motors ,also wireless. A whole bunch of arms drop links etc ,fuel lines brake lines , the complete cooling system ,all new - rad ,shrouds ,pump ,hoses etc - I have pencilled in a gearbox change post Xmas to an 8 speed ZF - a syvecs fit , toucan , new injectors (larger) water injection ,new turbo ( the “old” one has 500 mile on it - lol The 8 speed opens a whole new area , there is not that much data around with the mk Iv - for sure it works well and there are many options …not just the electronic control but internal upgrades ..clutches ,stall converters and on and on - ??? So a busy 2 months coming up …

Supra tax took hold ! The cars were never considered an icon (except by forum owners) bits swapped hand for next to nought and done to help other owners out - I got a pair of ganador electric mirrors for £200 and sold about 10 sets of oem front discs for £25 a pair ! Now people want hundreds of pounds for a bit of plastic trim !!! Then you couldn’t give away a side mount intercooler in good nick as everyone was fitting fmic and binning the stock front lips - lol I got a brand new long block from Toyota for £900 new ! Used it in CJs orange car

The rear 1/4 panels were widened by an inch each side - this took a lot of blending and a lot of work ! To match the trial rear and be seem less - not recommended! The engine was swapped out just before going in to the shop - forged engine fresh rebuild with boostlogic manifold and 67dbb turbo - boost logic box fitted with upgraded clutch packs and billet 2nd sprag -fresh built .original do luck front fitted well and ridox sills - then into colour

Sills were from Toyota ,inner and outer , there were only two inners left according to Toyota ! This led to getting the whole car being checked all over for rust …and a bare metal respray with all the correct undercoating - no rust found but now committed! So all stripped glass out job and correct anti rust primer (non porous coat )

Then I had a hole in the sill on one side - small but there …this led to the Bodyshop ……brand new inner and outer sills fitted ..

Then I fitted a few cows worth of leather - roof dash rear seats and sides boot front recaro OEM seats and on and on …

Been on here years and still got the supra ! Worlds longest project !! As the car was before storage and mods !

I have been using it for over 40 years now - it is the best available corrosion inhibitor - any low pressure hand sprayer will work . It will protect rubber as a barrier to UV light . the downsides: don’t let it drip in your hair - you may have to cut it out -lol there are solvents that will remove it but it is a messy mission ! it is a light brown colour and does not look the prettiest, but if you cleaned it off a suspension ,say springs they would look like new after 20 years It will pool in crevices and be thicker ,very very hard to remove ! 40+ years using the stuff tells me it works !!! I recommended it about 15 or so years ago on here and it was way more expensive back then

When you reassemble everything underneath - spray (can use a cheap trigger sprayer ) with Dinitrol AV8 , 1 litre will be more than enough . You can also cover lines and rubbers . this will last decades ..it’s very hard to remove ! It leeches in joins and perfect for hidden or enclosed areas. It is used in aviation for corrosion protection on structures and wheel wells . The tyres throw up water into the area at very high speeds and it remains in place . Suspension components will stay as new for 20 years with ease . Not overly expensive but hard to remove from your drive or garage floor ! Around 12 hours dry time

You check at your starter relay - use a voltmeter and measure - 1 pin has the voltage from fuse7.5 amp via ignition switch via neutral switch and via immobiliser if fitted - 12 volts when you turn the key = all good . the next pin on the starter relay mount has supply to the starter motor to signal it to crank - measure here for 12 volts ,all good then the problem is at the starter itself - the heavy duty lead to power it or its lost its earth -via the block itself - or the 12v crank supply - all good ? then your starter needs replacing - take it off and try it on the bench with a battery where you can see it engage and turn - hold on to it !!!! If you dont get 12v from switching the ignition switch - here is your problem - no neutral switch or fuse or ignition switch or immobiliser - so you check at the neutral switch on the gear lever side of the gearbox with a voltmeter or check the fuse is ok or the ignition switch is actually switching (they do fail)

you can check at the starter relay - one contact is voltage via 7.5 fuse - ignition switch , neutral switch to the contact , the next contact on the relay is voltage from large supply fuse to relay , this is the voltage supplied to the starter , you should feel the relay click , if clicking - then its likely the starter motor itself and it requires battering with a hammer in the first instance - then removing stripping cleaning fixing or a replacement - simple voltmeter tests needed

Looks like a simple receiver and key paired , probably based on an existing toyota set up . It was never a factory option so rather than alter the assembly line production it was offered as a dealer install - For ease of install it was made plug and play , splicing into the original door control unit connector . but it needed power ,so an extra power feed had to be spliced in somewhere . For ease of fit and no other mounting area ,they bunged it under the seat - the door locks will work exactly as the non keyless car . Apparently this is progress , from a key in the door ,to a fob , and now to just having a fob in your pocket and close to the car , it was all just too much effort previously ,and only £1000 to get the latest system fixed ...

It is indeed a big con , it's not a surprise to the Owners/directors that a company has gone bust , they have known for ages and done their plundering before hand , taking out bank loans , selling company offices and lease back deals , moving assets into untouchable places . If it was foreign owned (many are) the money disappears even faster !!! The owners/directors/senior management all move on to the next project with the loot What's left goes to the liquidators/administrators usually as a percentage deal of the total assets of the company (a percentage of what is at best confusing and calculated by the Liquidators) In short it is always the workers who lose out , either those who work for the company or supply the company , people who actually work always always lose ....those are the rules Sometimes companies linger on , often reducing wages as the "solution" , normally this means there is a pension fund that someone needs to work out how to plunder .....maybe another company can buy it out in total and "restructure" ie plunder some more . It's modern business , a conmans chess game ...

The UK market is small so a good test area for feedback , the reception is down to Toyota marketing and product design , Not enthusiasts , wishy washy part information and press releases that say very little , even now no one knows the specs , how can anyone get enthusiastic over something with so little information . As a £50 k car it’s competing with every sporty car including the GTR ,all the sports cars do , TT-RS is a fast as a Ferrari or faster ......Toyota....... go and compete !! Yesteryear is history.....make new history now

I guess they don’t know where to go with the car : so keep options open , use marketing for feedback , press and people and internet then finalise the spec . There is no point offering a car no one wants , and the competition is fierce in this area . The gap in time between the mkiv and this is large and no brand loyalty to fall back on ie updated tweeks to the original over the years. So something like say an Audi TT-RS has to be bettered : £50k , 400 hp , four wheel drive , magnetic shocks, good build quality and interior, some high tech in the mix - ultimately 0-60 circa 3.6 sec and 180 mph - 11 sec qtr mile Aftermarket stage 1/2/3 adds 100-200 hp and an ever growing list of hardware , tuning access for torque limiters , and engine control not hidden in algorithms to make life too hard . To be blunt is the new offering going to spank a 600hp Audi TT-RS and for how much ? Or Alfa Or Porsche or ... Who wants to come second??

Been there about three or four times : each time bar one had a similar outcome , filled in all the relevant paperwork , waited a couple of years and got paid enough for a value bag of crisps - the majority of the money was plundered by the administrators/liquidators. They had things like asset sales where they sold maybe £200k of stuff , got £10k and admin cost of £15 k ??!!? The one time it did not turn out like that , I had the foresight to remove some equipment before it all went Pete tong - very high value equipment that had a knock on cost to the company - I got in quick before the locks went on the doors and “held “ the equipment pending settlement of invoices - lots of threats but ultimately they paid me very quickly and got the stuff back !! Don’t know the legal details but possession rules - I had it and they wanted it . I know dozens of people that this has happened to , it’s common in my game and seldom works out if owed money - the game is rigged !

Also I have a flappy paddle steering wheel , and a laminova oil cooler , the box has a temp sensor in sump and the oil cooler an electric fan -the job lot for a conversion (box is also shimmed) (david P rebuild)

I do have a suprastick and display and an uprated autobox supra/soarer hybrid and oil cooler ,maybe a deal on your manual box and i would go manual -although i might break the R154

50:50 You have done well ! I would say around 10% actually are of any quality ,the majority of modern cars are electronic controlled and knowledge almost zero , not helped by plug in diagnostics for the brain dead or manufacturers hiding all useful information like state secrets . Attention to detail and basic practices are poor ,organisation even worse and the endless money chase can cause all sorts of wierd results ,lack of oversight and very poor training are at the root of the problem....

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f11/29868d1294073808-modifying-three-phase-motors-single-phase-use-steinmetz-connection.jpg Probably wired like this - any flash,bang , smoke and flames and I'm out ...... I did say probably ....

Sometimes a good old whack with a nylon hammer on contractors can free them up !!!

K1 is probably an on/off contactor and k2 and k3 are start and run contractors , k2/3 should have capacitors that they switch in (could be the two black boxes at the bottom - can't really see on my iPad ) - capacitor could be blown or a contactor not switching them in . Even if you get in a electrician - either the contactor or capacitor will need replacing (most likely defect) - depends on how much parts are and the electrician cost - if it pays to just fit new ones and see

Start capacitors are used on single phase and usually in the motor connection block on the motor -3 phase motors are self starting (if all three phases are there ) Is it single or 3 phase motor?

Looks like a 3 phase motor and it could be 2 phasing , you will have to check the contactor output is correct as one contact burnt out is possible - select in on and check supply at output contacts of contactor Can't see any capacitors in that box at all - any used are usually quite large

check the power steering air contol valve and hoses