jagman

Looking for a fmic and pipework if anyone has one kicking around

Cooper S - The wheels are at the corners with little overhang , this leads to very good handling despite the previous comments , runflat tyres are too hard on the sidewalls so non runflats improve the ride and coilovers again improve the situation , rear antiroll bar stiffer again improves further - PAS pumps need cleaning every couple of years ,the facelift car post 04 removed many of the early problems . clutch changes are expensive and lengthy ,the gearbox (getrag 6 speed - are very strong ) Fuel consumption is poor due the charger,but they are easily tuned , simple pulley change will see over 200 bhp ,and heads, cam,manifold etc nearer 280 -300 depending on budget They have a lot of headroom ,so tall people can easily fit in ,resale is still good although dropping now ,much like all juicy cars , well appointed interior spec for a small car ,sat nav ,sunroof ,and a host of options are available . Rust is seldom an issue ,but wheel bearings and front suspension and bushes now getting worn /damaged through poor driving parts are reasonable and can be sourced second hand

Complex to say the least! ,looks like compound series setup - the 2 turbos make it even more complex and is unnecessary , cant see any check valves so compressor surge is likely - there are easier ways ..

Tap-water bowser-aircraft water tank -filter(aka bacteria generators)-boiler-tea Some of these are steralized from time to time , depending on the airline , say air Cambodia every century ,regular as clockwork-yum

No ,water is boiled in flight in oddly named things called " water boilers"- lol

So every one who has a cup of tea on an aircraft - is now in danger of bacteria poisoning , and breastfeeding could result in exploding Boobs ! - more randomness

Jeez - you have half the Malaysian rubber export on those ! - it will take 200 bhp just to turn the wheels -lol -you could acually resurface roads with them !

you should have a sense wire marked s from battery to alternator. you need to first measure across the battery, engine running and measure voltage - should increase as revs rise but not get to 16 volts -the measure the battery engine off but on load -ie lights on now back to the sense line, the voltage regulator within the alternator uses this to "sense" the battery voltage - if for example one cell is down or electrolyte is low then the regulator will up the voltage as it sees a low voltage in , or more likely the sense line has a poor connection or corroded connection at the back of the alternator(small contact) then the voltage seen by the regulator is lower(even thoughit is fine at the battery) so it pushes up the output . fluctuating output as you say is likely with a poor connection All assuming it is the correct alternator fitted ,with same wire connections?

Put a meter across the battery and confirm the voltage first

It could simply be the exhaust manifold is not scavenging , it hits an rpm and loses scavenge , thus its not pulling air through the engine from intake and yet the fuel stays the same demand -open loop - thus you run rich Tricky things exhaust manifolds on na cars , small changes can have a large effect , decats, exhaust matching ,lengths and diameters -( wrapping will change the temperature and thus the speed of gas flow, again altering the scavenge and sweet spot of the manifold )

This has got thinking! Where is the torque felt or most likely to twist - input shaft , diff , two output shafts ? The diff is altering speeds so alters torque - hmm first thoughts are the prop shaft would twist/ shear before diff got any effect - ie long shaft vs compact diff gears ?

ill be the car used to go out to dinner, go on dates etc"' Most birds wouldnt know the difference between any sports cars ! - Rolls royce corniche convertable ,now they ALL know a roller !!! Arrive in style dude!! style beats speed every day of the week - and it would save some dubloons along the way !!

Should be stronger its a hybrid -billet toyota part with a yank gearbox part welded to it - at the end of the day 700ft lb it a lot, somethings got to give !! same with the manual box users - how long will the clutch last ? sniff,sniff thats the smell of burning cash -lol

FYI , the billet sprag is a tight fit and more clearance was needed to prevent jamming - the billet part is welded to the geared part and any slight offset will alter the clearance

Thats exactly what I have just had done , but dont expect either cheap or quick -it took 3 months to get the sprag !

The downside Chris mentioned is known as "creep" or blade creep in my trade - it is down to the temperature /cycles and limits and compounded by load - bigger turbos have longer blades and thus more centrifugal loads . keeping in heat -reducing the 70% loss to air will improve the turbine , but will impact creep and blade clearances and water /oil feeds - creep also exists in the compressor blades As far as I know, not one turbo manufacturer has tested or designed a turbo use with heat blankets as a part of the design

The author thus calculated all the heat transfer coefficients by carrying out a turbocharger energy balance. He showed that heat transfer to the surroundings accounts for 70% of the total heat power lost by the turbine. The heat power transferred to the compressor accounts for only 10%. Finally, the author showed that the total heat power can reach 8 times the turbine mechanical power at low rotational speeds and small flows." the above From a study paper on thermodynamics in turbos ,a small single turbo would give around enough heat for 35 power showers !!

Got 1 or set - £20 /50 pm me if you want it/them

Pm sent

Engines are designed to get hot and also maintain as constant a temperature as possible , the last line of heat exchange is from the engine to air , thats the heat you are seeing if you touch the engine . Too hot would be anything over the stock engine surface temp with a perfect stock cooling system fitted . I doubt thats ever been measured ,except by Toyota

If flexible and rub strips fitted -no worries

One of the most useful tools you can have is a spot temp laser gun ; its not fool proof but helps greatly without removing anything . point the gun at various places -bottom of rad, top of rad , after stat ,pump etc- it will show you whats happening temp wise - if you had a second car you can compare the numbers. It would show any blockages across rad for example They are cheap now (made in china ) £40 , but a great addition to your tool box

overcooling - At high speed (rpm) or loads The sysyem is designed to overcool , this is what allows the power upgrades to not instantly cook the engine Toyota again calculated at stock power levels the cooling flow required ,sized the pump ,stat,rad ,water passages and balance of heat between block and head . then they added capacity -this allows fine control by the water stat . in very high load conditions rpms etc - they have a safety net of sorts the heat excess goes into the oil system and your oil temp rises as the water system is maxxed out ( it has a max flow and a fixed quantity of coolant ) - the faster the oil temp rises the more it shows lack of cooling capacity for that power level . Again heat rates and balance was the target from toyota If you go beyond what both water and oil can absorb - then the head temp rises and heat goes to air -under the bonnet Now if all three exits dont cope- air oil and water - your water temp rises - this is a sure sign of overheat !!! even a couple of degrees . heat balance has gone out of whack !! - this is when your electric fans kick in ! as the water temp rises, usually after a hard run you slow down, water pump speed slows ,oil pump speed slows -the engine heat to air is maximum - but fear not Toyota calculated this for stock power levels with the viscous fan -it tries to smooth out the temperature changes at fixed rates . If you punch power high enough then even the stock system cant cope , this is even at high forward speeds , here the aftermarket oil cooler comes into play , but if heat rise is too much and too fast - then the head simply runs hot , valve issues,valve seal/guide issues, plugs,det hot spots .yadda yadda - But toyota did such a good job this does not always appear in an instant And I still reserve the right to change my mind!

To clarify things ; Toyota went to great lengths in the cooling system ; The aim is to get fast warm up and fine temperature control from idle throught to maximum speed the system both overcools and undercools; undercooling - this is at low forward speeds and idle , it undercools to keep frontal area small -small rad and sump - it improves performance with less drag losses to control undercooling(small rad ) they used a viscous fan -this works in conjunction with the water stat , flow control of both water and airflow -this keeps balanced temperatures and prevents surges of temps and cycling , they also calculated for aircon use and auto transmission cooling . lots of design work and data and testing to match all components If you now change to elect twin fans and shroud -( with no data or testing) the fans must have an independent stat to switch on -this must be higher than the original water stat or it would never switch on - but it cannot be too close in temp or there is a risk of the fans coming on and the water stat closing before the fans switch off - ie no cooling at all So now it creates cycling temps between the water stat and fan stat( + ? degrees )rather than the matched situation of viscous fan (acting like a stat and having varying speed to load ) and all with no data at all next post overcooling ;high speed I reserve the right to change my opinion at short notice

This means very little as it's dependent on how much over the water stat the fan stat is set , the stock viscous fan is matched to the water stat by design and reduced cycling temperatures