jagman

23 soarer sc300/400

Jag xjs ,and golf , the rest im just looking at the steering wheel logo !

There have been lots of variations on fuel systems , 2 or 3 pumps , swirl pots , Bosch , walbro , and other options . But Ive never seen any voltage controllers used this side of the pond . I've ordered the Kenne Bell unit ( the lower 17.5 volt unit) should be here on Tuesday . Cost just under £200 Inc delivery . There is test data on their website and they increase flow output upto 50% on a test rig , each increase or decrease of 1volt = 10% flow. Increasing/decreasing voltage is what Toyota did in the first place ; every DC motor has a speed vs torque relationship ,altering this by voltage change effectively gives you 2 pumps in one . Why has no one yet tried this ? After all the stock denso pumps are very good and seldom fail even decades old . Anyway after fitting I will get some dyno tests - unit off and on for comparrisson .

"We have a 'no photography' policy in the centre to protect the privacy of staff and shoppers and to have a legitimate opportunity to challenge suspicious behaviour if required. No surveillence cameras then !! or press photos or marketing photos - quick check Google earth ,it might need deleting ...

For Track use the easiest way to improve braking it to increase cooling : add fan assisted cooling , couple of fans and flexi pipes into the dust shield and a small lip on the shield to guide cool air over disc edge where the heat is flung out Of the disc . Could double up as a winter leg warmer - just stand by the front wheels ...

Sounds good - short causes battery volts to drop , increased current draw to pumps on start = fuse blows however the relay has now been subjected to high current draw across it's contacts and could have pitted contacts so it's prudent to replace it - it's always the wrong time these things fail !!

Got one , so no longer needed -

I've never seen the NA diagrams , but there will be a sort of EFI relay , to shut the pump off in case of accident , you don't pump fuel if your car is on fire ! If you can post up a diagram , it would help lots

You do have options , including leaving the battery in the boot : do you still use the fuel ECu? In the boot. You could just run a short fused supply cable to the Fecu direct , then remove the earth lead from the fecu , use the Efi2 relay to switch earth in place of power Ie remove the efi2 fuse and wire to earth - this still allows the main ecu to control the fecu , but switching earth in place of power as the power is constant from battery fused supply on a short lead The efi2 relay is only used for fuel pump control it could be the pump knackered too ! Confusing isn't it !

Without exact info of your instal: the battery in boot now has a long lead to the front , so drops voltage , low volts means more current is drawn by the pump , and you have 2 fitted - this could overload the fuse during pump start up . Is battery full charged ? Lower Volts won't help - you need to poke about with a meter

Without the diagram , off memory : circuit is : 12v EFI 2 fuse to EFI 2 relay - then to Fuel pump ECU - B pin the output FP is switched 9/12 v to the pump . The ECU controls the Fuel ECU via 2 wires to it and one other wire remains - earth (this is common to the fuel pump earth) However the EFI2 relay is switched on to provide power to the fuel pump ECU by another ECU B wire ie from the ECU - no B power at the diag port could mean no B power from the ECU , so no fuel ECU power! I cannot remember the routing of the B line sorry . Check from the fuel ecu in the boot for power at the connector

fuse 30 amp EFI NO2 - feeds the EFI NO2 RELAY ,then onto the fuel pump ECU B+,then out FP to the fuel pump

You choose,you modify,you fail .... Man up ! There is too much of a blame culture in this country.....its always someone else

Yet someone took payment to do just that, and that someone I expect knew better. I could contract with you to walk on water. It might not be possible but if I accept money in the promise to do it, I am still legally obliged to walk on water and if I fail then I breach our contract. The guy who made the choice to modify his car , takes all responsibility from the moment he made that choice ,it was his idea and research - without any details of the modification its impossible to know the reason for failure an there could be dozens!! So what tools did the tuner have given to him ,for example EGT and maximum limits , knock control ,or indeed any data , all he can do is monitor with det cans and hope that there is no fundamental issue such as plug heat range or restricted manifold or fuel supply or ,low oil quantity ,or, or ... he was contracted to walk on water and did so -then he sank !! no shock horror there !!!

You can't tune what was a fundamentally a bad idea , your bad idea !

Fair chance of hookeyness then ! lol

"The alternator will charge the battery at the same rate no matter what the battery voltage is at, as scooby slayer mentioned it will sustain 14 volts on a good alternator regardless of battery charge." 3) Three-wire alternator. This is the most effective configuration. Essentially a closed loop "feed back" system. It uses a large battery wire, an ignition and or warning light connection and a voltage sensing wire. The advantages are a) the regulator is activated by the ignition/warning light wire, b) the sense wire, connected directly to the battery, continuously tells the voltage regulator the charge condition of the battery. (this information is significantly more accurate when sourced directly at the battery.) The voltage regulator infinitely varies the alternator output based on this information. No other configuration charges the battery as effectively." http://www.chargerr.com/Alternators/ALT.HTM If you are constantly making 14.1-14.3 , then it is possible that the s sense wire has a poor contact or high resistance , the battery may be 12.8 volts but the s wire at the alternator connector sees only say 11.5 volts due a volts drop (poor contact at either end) so it pushes up the output voltage constantly to a higher value (14.1-14.3) this will eventually knacker the battery . If a cell is down on the battery a similar thing can happen , it needs checking on load to see if this is the case

Can't help with HPI - but worth searching the MOT history online with DVLA - you do need the log book numbers - it will give a view of what fails and advisories - year on year and where the car was located so you get a picture of it's history and likely hood of hookeyness !

each cell in a battery has a nominal voltage of 2 volts hence a 12 volt battery , discharged battery is at 1.75 volts per cell ,fully charged is 2.12 volts per cell or 12.7/8 volts , however during charging ,(a reverse of current flow)it can rise to 2.7 volts per cell - as soon as the charge current is removed it rapidly drops to its full charge 2.12 volts , due the battery internal resistance .any load on the battery will futher drop its voltage towards its nominal voltage . The alternator has to put out over 12.8 to fully charge the battery , the more over the 12.8 the more charge current to the battery ,if this were permanently 14.5 volts , the current charging heats the battery , reducing the electrolyte and warping the spongy lead plates - thats when you smell the gases given off - this is now controlled by the regulator so at idle the charge voltage is reduced -depending on the battery charge and increased at high rpms again depending on the battery charge the load from circuits varies , but say a 80 amp alternator can suppy 80 amps load with no drop off in voltage ,the regulator almost instantly maintains voltage , this adds the load to the engine as torque some things such as motors ,wiper,heater, draw large start current until the build back emf ,at these time the voltage drops off for a few seconds then stabalises (not so much with wipers stop starting -you see the volts rise/fall) If the load was 150 amps ,then the alt cant keep up,its output volts drop and once at or below the battery voltage the battery supplies the load and discharges the battery can supply hundreds of amps to the load , well for a while . duff brushes7slipping belts, for example reduce the alts ability to provide enough power , but load wise its got to be a large and usually obvious problem . temperature also affects the charge current /voltages but this is the battery temp ,some cars such as the Jaguars used to fit a fan to the battery case to keep this as constant as possible ,keeping the battery internal resistance in limits

Its not current regulated its voltage regulated -its output is voltage regulated not load or current regulated , the s or sense connection senses the battery voltage and adjusts the voltage to suit ie a low battery voltage ups the output of the alternator to add a charge current , it also looks at its stator output voltage due rotational speed if it gets to high it trims it down or vise versa if a load got so high as to drop the voltage output it must be beyond the alts ability to produce that current output ie very high - an internal short in the battery or feed line to earth, any load that did this would blow the fuse quickly or you would get red hot wires . In this case if the battery is fully charged then the regulator keeps the voltage close to the battery voltage and lessens the charge current -so a 12 volt battery at 13 volts would give close to 13 volts out the speed of the alternator part of the reguator has now no requirement to regulate higher that this or overcharging the battery is the result and the circuits and bulbs etc only need 12 volts - you can get the situation where 13.1 or so is fine

you are checking off load so its less valid a check - you need to use a load ,for example a bulb - then there is current flow and thus a volts drop -this will show high resistance contacts either in relay or ignition switch or wiring to starter -if all are good then its the starter or starter earth at fault

Alternators reguate for both speed of engine and state of battery charge so outputs vary depending on both these - lower output can simply be the battery is fully charged

IS it an auto or auto to manual conversion as there is a switch that inhibits start on the autobox -it could be playing up , then try the ignition switch itself - short out the contacts used on the ignition switch and see if it always starts or not -this controls the start relay

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm Its pretty much what Toyota do a stock -up the voltage under boost but this moves it higher up the voltage to 17 volts Ive not read about anyone using one in the UK , and the unit looks robust and well made with adequate heat sinks by the size of it - I have one on order so will report on how they operate , going on my soarer as I have a boostlogic single to go on it (couldnt help myself Dude -lol)

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm