jagman

If you were to have a 100 point check list , such as new replaced parts : Alternator Starter motor Water pump Wheel bearings Engine mounts Gearbox mounts Battery Front suspension arms Rear suspension arms Headlights Coil packs Radiator Belts And so on , all fresh items not second hand , then a condition scale out of ten for each panel ,sills,windscreen , etc , you could "value" a car or at lease ball park one , but the vast majority of cars would fail dismally , just changing the engine oil regular is not servicing or inspection . People are selling dreams not cars , and we all dream ...... Very few people are going to toyota and just buying the parts they need , most cars are collection of 5 cars parts - lol , things like door seals are seldom if ever replaced , mint cars , I don't think so . Clubs like the Jag enthusiats , have an inspection and valuation service , a fine tooth comb springs to mind , I shudder to think what the supras would come out like with such a check .....

A very quick check is to remove the 7.5 amp ALT S fuse , this is where the voltage is sensed from for the alternator - check the fuse blades are not corroded and the fuse sits in it slot nicely , maybe clean the terminals with emery paper . And wiggle a bit - see what happens to the voltage

It's unusual to over volt from an alternator , the regulator inside the alternator is fed with a sense wire , usually marked "s" , check the wiring diagrams for its route - this is where the voltage is sensed , if this wire is high resistance or corroded or loose , the alternator always senses low voltage , so it pushes up it's output to max . Max output is usually circa 18v , limited by a surge diode inside the alternator . I don't have the diagrams to hand but check the sense line run and see if you have disturbed any part of this run doing the ignition switch

No I'm Spartacus , I have a complete cream interior , roof liner , boot , side panels , door panels , seats , dash , centre console, sill strips , a pillars , and.....................a grey carpet ! -lol

I'd swap carpets if you want , I've got grey and need cream - also in s Glamorgan

Clearly banned ..

I have been an electrical engineer for coming up 40 years now , so I have a fair idea of basic electrics , in fact advanced electrics as well. The drop you have would require 22/24 gauge wire to have been used or very poor terminations . Using two parallel supply cables can cause its own issues ,what I can't tell is the quality of your wiring installation , crimping/ soldering , only you know that . Pump wise , external comparisons don't mean much , what is the maximum flow of the mk3 pump @ what voltage ? And what is the NA mkiv pump ? Then what is the static pressure of fuel of the mkiv NA and mk3 ? Solid state electronics don't "wear" so much , as there are no moving parts , but dust build up,condensation , dry solder joints or cracked boards are not unknown . Many jap cars used electrolytic capacitors and these have a limited life , around 10 years old they leak and corrode the tracks / damage surrounding components ( you can smell this when it happens ) . As to quality electronic components , I spend most night shifts replacing failed units , and we use the very finest , massively expensive electronics , and very seldom by comparison replacing relays ... Simplicity works

You are in a half way situation , none of the advantages of an in tank pump , yet the control system for the wrong pump , Nearly 3 volts drop on such a low voltage system is waaaay too much on wires alone and even if it were full volts available does the mk3 pump satisfy the mkiv engine ? The FP ecu ,s are now old and who knows what condition they are or how much they have drifted , a plain relay / control /rewire would seem the easy answer ,but i can see a intank pump fit being a pain . i guess the engine would love to see the correct fuel flow though

Well you've been buggering about trying to diagnose a problem that was hidden all BECAUSE of the complexity/sophistication . The control module is the likely culprit , way above any wire issues for that size volts drop . The control module was made/ designed for a mk 4 pump , it's speed and torque characteristics , (one goes up and the other down BTW), you are running a different pump ( how close is the torque/speed?) Running flat out won't alter fuel pressure but provide greater return flow , reliability wise the effect is tiny ( hence I'm running1.5 x supply volts without issue comment) . The voltage is altered for reasons of noise, return fuel heating and electrical efficiency . The simple answer is fit a quality wire , mkiv pump , high current relay and good earth and end the fuel starve problem . Keep the ecu signal to control the relay for engine fire / crash purposes and the delay at shutoff to maintain prime pressure of fuel

Fit mkiv pump and direct wire to pump via relay , use ecu o/p wire to switch relay . 2 thin parallel wires is not the way ,as if 1 wire broke or had high resistance the other wire is overloaded and you would not know. Keeping the sophisticated PWM system is just another thing to go wrong , if needs be fit a return line cooler from a derv car . 11volts has got to be low , I run 17.5 v across my pump , works a treat and has for thousands of miles , I would also expect alternator output volts - probably the control unit is U/S

Bypass the fuel pump control module , it is signalled from the ecu to up the fuel pump speed , but its a bit vague on when this happens in the manual

"I've been thinking of doing a sequential turbo setup for a while now as a means of getting more boost at lower rpm" From your first post , I can't see how you achieve this from your set up without compounding the compressors , in fact you would get the opposite , you have large turbines/ compressors , no extra exhaust gas (only using the residual gas post no1 turbo ) increased exhaust back pressure and restriction . If you compound the compressors or use a supercharger to compound the compressors then yes you can get very high boost /rpm - this is only useful if the engine can flow the extra air at its lower rpm

Il take a read of the link later , your set up is not compound , the second turbo won't feed the inlet of the first turbo as a sole air source , I it's really a parallel supply , this is harder to achieve without surging the compressors . Maybe a true compound is the way to go - you are halfway there

First is the spooling of both turbos , as you know the second turbo takes a second bite of the gasses so it's cooler and has less pressure . The pressure in the join between turbos raises with the no2 wastegate closed ,so the pressure differential across the first turbo drops If this happens before the no1 has full spool , it will dramatically slow its turbine . - the faster the no1 is running the more inertia it has to maintain its speed . The second turbo tends to spool faster as it's compressor is off load until it's output is joined with the first turbo , so this aids the no 1 turbo , as the diff pressure increases . None of this is linear and takes time to happen and will get to equilibrium , but at some point the outputs of 1/2 are joined , both compressors are loaded , the no1 will take the lions share as it's turbine has first shot at the hotter gasses , the no2 will run slower but this again alters the pressure in the join pipe , so the turbos will eventually equalise - this takes time . Part throttle will move the the loads /spool and boost and everything is re timed This all needs control and it's complex , getting balance will be a challenge .

I can see issues with your diagram of proposed set up , and for simplicity you can replace #4 wastegate with a check valve

Looks stock , just brighter better focused lights , like modern cars .

LED bulbs are the way forward now , you will need the fan cooled bulbs for maximum light output , these don't have the warm up time of hid bulbs but match the lumen output . The limitation is the projector lens assembly , replace these with more modern optical lenses and you will have the brightest most focused beams - not that cheap £80 for the bulbs and controllers and a couple of hundred for the lenses , but = modern lights. Bonus is legislation has yet to catch up with LED bulbs , so you can't get pulled for them as it's a grey area with bulbs being wattage limited historically

Use Zener diode on the supply and it would make no difference engine on or off

In short the Fmic will be better in recovery time , better output temps even with poor ducting , cheap core , Poor end tanks - due it's frontal area /size . - it's brute force vs finesse , force wins ...

Bet you wouldn't have said that if it was £250 - lol

Fuel gauges usually are not direct reading volt meters or ammeters , if they were , they would bounce around all the time that the fuel level moved . They employ heat : within the gauge is a bimetallic strip , this is coiled with a fine wire , the higher the fuel level the more current passes through the coil - this heats the bimetallic strip and it bends . The strip is connected to the pointer and the more it bends the higher the gauge reads . Heating and cooling of the strip takes time , so rapid changes in the current have a delayed effect and the gauge pointer remains stable. Because of this gauges tend to remain high at full / fuller readings and drop off faster at low readings ( relative) The current vs heating effect vs bimetallic strip makes exact calibration hard , again usually calibrated to zero , so you run out of fuel when empty in the tank. Some cars such as the soarer use a capacitive sensor , this uses the fuel as a dielectric in a capacitor circuit - these are very linear . How the internals of the dash 2 work - I don't know , probably a current sensing circuit internally damped , but I could be wrong

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Supra-Corolla-Double-Din-Pocket-Cup-Holder-Box-/230592901084?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b0686fdc This type of thing Should be easy enough to fit if you have a single din stereo .

You could be rolling down a hill , on brake and clutch , turning in somewhere , now you must blip the throttle , rally style or the engine could stall - thus losing all power steering !!! Tidy engine bay and smashed front end - oops

I think it lifts the idle when the power steering sees pressure ie a load on the engine . Turn the steering , load increases , valve opens , air bypasses the throttle and idle lifts to prevent stalling

The originals are cast , with an I beam type construction , so even in aluminium will be very strong , but the ball joint is not replaceable . I doubt a stock one has ever failed , worn yes , but fail .. No These look to be steel bar and tube , welded , my doubt would be on the welds , just how good are they ? If jig made , then the alignment could be good , and nice to be able to rebuild / fit new ball joint (joint mount strength?) At what point would these fail , what impact / shock load ? , probably never tested ,but probably will work fine ....lot of probably there