jagman

Supra for me was born 20 years ago but is good as nowadays supercars... actually only recent supercar have broken the 600-700hp range.... Supra sometimes is missing just something to bring it to this age... a more updated gearbox look like what is missing... and dct is for me the only autobox who combine the pro of the auto with the pro of the manual with no actual cons... The Supra was born as the bastard child of the Soarer , a high speed GT in Auto form , designed as an auto , but for those with a need to carry midgets around in the rear . It just so happens you could alter this to nudge supercars and remove the GT part - still keeping much more modern cars at bay . Modern multi gear auto boxes were driven by the use of modern Direct injection engines with limited rpm limits and torque bands , always chasing fuel efficiency . If I'm in 2nd gear , I've 2 gears left 3rd and top (OD) , along side is a modern 7 speed , loads of gears!! - no gear envy here , my two seem to work better than his 4 , and all very stress free - lol If you have an auto ,just use it ,tweak it , enjoy it - you fear no manual car and it's entertaining

You can shim the auto , up line pressure (hybrid) , alter electronic control all to speed shift up - I'm looking for sub 80 millisec shifts , now tell me how you speed up the manual shift .? Wear ladies tights or fast shoes? - ha ha

I suspect it is : you are always going up hill , the engine is always on load - torque is king and being in the torque band at all times is crucial - one wrong gear selection and you lose - super fast gear changes are needed , either a sequential or auto would probably spank a manual . Auto owners are still enthusiasts , they also drive enthusiastically , you can spin an auto with ease , just put in a boot full off a round a bout , and see what happens . A 6k auto with 6k spent on suspension and tuning and brakes is always a better car than a 12k manual with nothing spent , if the auto box was a slow old clunky thing then yeah - but it's not , it's lightning fast and a joy to use and puts lots of other manual cars to shame in the performance stakes with few handling modifications it's awesome

There's the rub "if you can drive a manual properly" , entry speed is more critical with the auto and you have to get all over the brakes sometimes as you don't have the engine braking , however over time with the auto you can get this nailed and coming out of the corner you are straight into the power band and flat shifting - the reward is the guy behind can't keep pace . Too many think having a manual car means you will easy outpace an auto through the twisties , you need skills if the guy in the auto has only a reasonable ability , he ain't never gonna miss a shift and makes fewer shifts . The auto is still an enjoyable challenge round the twisties and a formidable weapon with 500 bhp+ and good brakes - being easy to drive isn't a sin - lol

Got a quick nibble there - if 1 car can shift in 100 milliseconds and another in 500 milliseconds , one can flat shift at full throttle and keep the turbo spooling ,also maintaining momentum as it's under power for longer it's not a sport - it's shooting fish in a barrel . New list prices- autos usually cost more - it's a perception of "sports" and driving ability once cars are used that is in demand.

The mighty auto, out performs the lesser manual , it's an oddity that the manual cars cost more , but fools and money are easy parted . Faster shift times , fewer shifts , and torque multiplication are just a few of the benefits . Auto vs manual has been debated for years on here , a simple 2 mile twisty hill climb event - manual vs auto would end all the debate - won't happen of course as the lesser manuals would lose ! - much crying and wringing of hands , clutch slip , wrong tyre pressures, etc etc NA auto is the exception , they don't have enough torque to multiply , the autobox ain't that good ! How popular will this post be - lol

Looks like someone's mixed up old and new wiring - the capacitor is connected from supply to earth - so is acting as a "smoother" to remove any ripples in the supply - ( probably unnecessary ) but this has failed and dragging down the supply to earth - that's why when it's disconnected the pump clicks and runs - Just run the one supply wire ( check it's voltage) and make sure the pump is bolted up to chassis ( earth return) I'm assuming it's neg earth car - ( check battery connections) Mk11 jags like a lot of fuel flow or power drops off so a good pump is needed and clean filter , a 3.4/3.8 in good tune should keep up with most modern saloons , I fitted a manual xjs box in mine - loved it !

Points are in the top cover , but your pics don't look like a jag pump

Early cars were positive earth , the shiny thing is a capacitor as I remember to prevent sparking at the contact points - usually the points need cleaning or are stuck - there is a electronic version without the points in the pump available that prevents the no start issues - not sure of they are also available in pos earth

Remove the gearbox sensor and check the plastic drive

The lock up is also controlled as a function of water temp sensor

Why would I get naked ,because you are new to the Supra ? Sounds suspect to me , very wrong , is it a gay thing ?

In the first instance clean the filter - it's like a Brillo pad inside the reservoir , this gets clogged and stops fluid getting to the pump , hence no return flow (bubbles) To clean the filter you need to take the reservoir off and fill /shake with a solvent , it's a good time to replace the fluid too . I've had this on 3 cars each time it cured the problem , bonus , as it's the cheapest too .

Long one should be good

I could do with a drivers steel /black if possible , and you don't mind splitting a pair

Do you understand that each and every ECU fuel cut voltage can vary , do you understand that each and every map , sensor output versus boost can vary , do you understand that sensors can drift ? Are 4.27 and 4.38 and 4. 21 and 4.33 volts the same , if YOUR fuel cut was 4.19 , which voltage setting would you prefer? No one knows YOUR fuel cut voltage on YOUR car , no matter how much you search the internet . There are instructions included with the Gizmo , you follow these to set up the unit - it's that simple Fit , adjust , test , adjust , test , adjust , test - until your car is set - you have the ability to adjust to 2 decimal places (I can't explain that any better) some FCD are only to 1 decimal place 4.3 , 4.4 ,4.5 etc I have given you an overview of the unit based on the three I have used .

It's not exact it's set to your car , there are instructions included

The voltage is say 3.54 not 3.5 it's accurate and adjustable to two decimal places , the adjustment is by a small screw adjuster in the back but you need to unscrew the rear plate to get to it - this means you have to unplug the connector at the rear to remove the plate to get a screwdriver in - thus the voltage adjustment must be the first adjustment - it's not an external or push button setting , At £200 they are cheap enough for the quality and ease of use and installation - it's also a voltmeter So voltmeter, timer, FCD, boost gauge,boost controller, all in one - boost controller is 6 settings and scramble boost with variable time and % over boost , and warnings of over boost with lights or flashing display

The display is clear and bright , (dim available) can be set to various units , acts as a boost gauge , it is very accurate ( verses dyno plot) , the voltage fuel cut is to 0.00 voltage settings so highly accurate , although adjustment requires unplugging to access. The case is very sturdy thick aluminium and is a durable unit , the rectangle shape needs more effort to mount than a circular one . Turbo timer works but needs more wiring instal time . The solenoid appears durable and fast acting . Has enough settings (6) in memory and gain adjustment simple . All in all a good little unit despite the naff name

I have one fitted to 3 separate cars - they work and are accurate and simple to operate

I did give the answer , but you seem to have not followed it - lol 1 fuse ratings are a multiple of the constant expected current , this is because of start currents can run higher 2 your current will be around 21 amps at full load 3 new cable is a single cable run and is better for heat ( loomed cables have reduced capacity) 4 quality cable is used as it has much better tolerance for overheat and fire resistance , a short circuit with cheap plastic insulation (read halfords cable) with melt and catch fire almost instantly 5 check the current max on those crimps you have used 6 supply cables drop voltage , more the longer the cable , so thicker cable is used - here the quality of cable counts - thick poor insulation tricks you into thinking the current capacity of the cable is much higher than it really is 7 using old original cable and forcing it to carry new / altered electrical loads can highlight any problems with chaffing or cable run So how do you know what quality cable looks like ? Some easy tips are , cheap cable is always plain copper conductors , this limits their ability to cope with heat , quality cable is tinned copper , or silver or nickel plated copper conductors . Cheap cable is plastic insulated , quality cable is usually a vinyl coating - it feels slippery in your fingers Lastly use a fag lighter on the cable , a sample piece obviously , cheap cable melts and catches fire in a few seconds , quality cable remains intact for several minutes and won't melt .- despite having thinner insulation Sorry for lecture , but people simply don't know and many expensive project cars are done using awful cable and the cost of quality cables is not that expensive Lastly for example a thin gauge quality cable around standard car size will run 75 amps for 5 mins without major melt down and fire - this gives you time to jump out and disconnect the battery - thus saving your pride and joy

Coil packs are voltage sensitive make sure positives are all into the correct pin , boost cut voltages vary considerably ECU to ECU .

New fused feed from battery to relay , relay to pump ( use quality wire) , relay switched from ECU feed that went to the fuel pump control unit . Use high current relay . Now the ECU controls the pump and shuts it off in an accident , it also runs pump for a couple of seconds on engine shut down to keep lines primed . -Option to use a circuit breaker in place of a fuse , so you can reset if you have problem and not be stranded with a blown fuse ( you never have a spare fuse , no matter how many you leave in the glovebox )

Advice from people who know little about cars is pointless , advice from people who have never seen the car is pointless , this is why I would suggest an inspection report . There are a number of garages who specialise in supras and have done for some time . A few hours on a ramp and a 100 point report would sort the wheat from the chaff , selling a car : it would make sales easier and highlight any problems , buying a car it would highlight future expenditure / current expenditure. Values will be driven by the market as always , but based on something solid , a few hundred quid for a report is far better than buying a wallet killing dog , which will simply be sold on and on , priced by the sellers description and how much he paid for it!! Traders make a few quid , and some on going repair work , buyers/sellers get a clue about the car being sold , Keron gets a load of scrappers - lol , insurance companies get a hard base for payouts on condition ,small claims courts get inundated with cases of false advertising , mot testers lose their tickets What could go wrong ........

And that's the problem , you can end up buying a £12000 car and the alternator packs up a month later , followed by the radiator , and so on , so was it worth £12k ? Most people take a punt and buy the cheapest car they can , based on some weird logic (like mileage),and then put the AA on speed dial