jagman

They just don’t focus light in projector lens set ups or light assemblies not designed for led . The LS 600 has LED headlights and they are great - but they are motorised in an array and each headlight cost £5000 . in fog lights they cause more vision problems than they improve !

The viscous clutch fan system is the rolls Royce of fan cooling - water cooling the engine is done to regulate the head temp to a constant temp - no matter what load is applied - regulators - 1 the thermostat 2 the water pump - faster the engine the more flow 3 the fan - viscous fan alters with ambient temp regulating for hot or cold days - it also regulates for engine speed faster the engine the faster the fan - a superb regulator ! aluminium (heads ) do not like varying temps it creates stresses and constant temps give constant clearances . elect fans do not regulate for ambient air temp or engine speeds only for water temp variations - they also cycle on off which has a hysteresis and causes temp cycling - the complete opposite of the requirement . It is the budget option and will never get close to a viscous system which will outflow any electrical fans !!! that’s the tech answer - the only reason elec fans exist is that transverse engines have to have them and they are cheaper to manufacture and design . : cheap front engine transverse cars not for one of the best engines ever made !

Paint …… when factory paints cars they use an automatic spray system - this uses electrostatic charged clearcoat - it is very thin and saves material cost . All clearcoats have an element of unevenness and during drying have orange peel . Manufactures grade this ,cheap cars =more orange peel . High end cars wet sand . repainting cars always have a thicker clearcoat applied -due spray gun pressure . Once dry clearcoat can also have dust ,hairs , and pin holes . so it’s wet sanded and inspected by eye , every square inch of it . the first sand show any high spots or the worse areas of peel or pinholes , moving light source to check all angles . You work your way down the grades of pads in 4 stages - 2000 down to 8000 grit - the early stages you see the clearcoat coming off as a creamy white colour . You can also feel the finish with your fingers and you use fresh towels from a sealed bag - so spotless clean - any dust will cause a swirl . Then another 4 stages of cutting and polishing using different grade compounds - any pinholes need touching in with clear and repeat the process . best left to someone who has years doing this !! Only once all completed can you apply the wax coat ,first the hydroscopic coat -only one coat ,then apply the finish wax coats - these you can layer up - hence the large number of hours needed A pic of the rear side panels , the rear is about 2 inches wider than stock - but you can barely tell - you would have to put it side by side with a stock car to see it which is exactly as I wanted it - a wide body that doesn’t look wide body - does that make sense ? At least another week of paint polishing left - over 80 hours total !!!!!! there is no such thing as a quick respray ,dark cars show everything!!!!!

Once you leave a car off the road , you tend to make it into a mountain of a job rather than a small hill - the longer you leave it the worse it seems . BUT the reality is that is is not as bad as you imagine ! In my case I have made it way more complex : over the years things have moved on ….”small” turbos now make big horsepower and boost at crazy turbo speeds . 8 speed gearboxes !!! Active AI speed controlled suspension! we all know the base engine is a fantastic design - 3x factory power ratings increase is possible and done often - part of what I’m trying out is to get some data : what happens if you add a second intercooler (chargecooler ) , at what point does the head hit temp issues , what is the effect of fuel cooling . Water meth injection to the intake ports what effect and what limits . Can you improve head water flow and how does this affect head stress /temp . can you increase power without oil temp increases , how far can you push pump fuel octane … there is always a mechanical limit engine bottom end and such - hence the engine was rebuilt with rods /bolts/bearing /pistons and so on and is all new to allow me to push it a bit and not run into wear items like piston rings worn or such so I have taken 3 months off work to put it all together and see what happens …….. once you start it’s far easier than the mountain you thought you had to climb …step by step . Starter ,alternator ,blowers ,windows wipers steering ,and most everything else still worked as if it was parked yesterday ! In your head they could all be knackered but NO ,probably all better than if you had driven it for 10 years ,not one stuck relay -the only thing so far was one brake light bulb holder corroded !

Some bits arrived r35 coil packs ,and more bits on order - fuel cooler ,using a water /fuel heat exchanger and the chargecooler water circuit to cool , manual clutch pedal assy , and brake pedal , Haltech linear position sensor and a clutch emulator - to manual shift the zf . Started the paint compound correction this will take about 30 hours flatting and polishing panel by panel and then some fusso soft 99 hydrophobic coat and a final fusso mirror shine coat - it’s a lot of effort involved ! Going for a top show quality finish and it takes time and effort !!

I paid £1500 for the box , it was sent - to a race gearbox specialist who rebuilt it and replaced the Kevlar clutch packs with stronger packs as a one off - I imported the billet sprags from the US - Titan I think -£600 and they were fitted - £2500 for the build and conversion . high stall was around £400 . I have no idea what a similar spec would be now - don’t think billet sprags are available anymore - £1000 would be a cheap price I guess as its No use to me and should not be sat on a garage floor for years . It was rated for 1500 hp - so really for high power spec cars - there were some other internals done but I don’t remember exactly what now . Done less than 500 miles

Some new plugs arrived today ,so fitted them and when for the start ………..fired up instantly and ran smooth as you could wish for … I was well pleased ,ran it for 30 mins and topped up the coolant and bled it , heater super hot . One small oil leak on an oil cooler union , tightened and ok ,and a small leak on the fuel pump banjo ,again nipped it up and fine . alternator and power steering all fine . So good progress and mostly wiring and lights to sort ,but about 4 weeks and should be all done ,ready for the ZF box and new turbo and injectors . Anyone want an updated boostlogic box with billet sprags and hi stall converter ,good for high power cars -let me know , I don’t know of any other in the U.K. with the updated sprag and updated Kevlar clutch packs

they do polish up alright by hand .

mine is the same - often OEM go to manufactures and say they want a timing belt …..say 250.000 for the assembly line and 20000 as spares for dealerships . Deal is done at say £10 a belt . They retail them for say £75 each . But they insist the belt has a length no other car uses , and it has a logo ,and they get sole supply for 5 years . After the 5 years the aftermarket can buy them for £25 each and sell for £50 . But the logo is removed . The water pump is cast and has a logo/part number or such specific to Toyota …..so they etch out the logo . They have to do this due to people …….your water pump has destroyed my engine type claims against OEM dealerships

Removed the 255 fuel pump and fitted a new 450 Walbro pump -switched on the ignition and ….nothing . Bypassed the fuel pump Ecu from the diagnosis port FP …..and the pump runs smooth as . So the FP Ecu has finally died (it had hot start issues previously) so a bit of wiring needed to by pass the ECU and add a new relay and heavier gauge wire to the FP to battery . Top tip : the connector at the fuel pump cover is the weak spot in the wiring , the pins are open (no insulation) hence connector plastic melting - fill void with RTV. Next up trying out my own head cooling mod using twin external stats - not seen this tried before - see pic

Just got one - has a metal impeller and comes with gasket

Dash going back in , so into a new year to finish off . couple of new things to try out ,that I’ve not seen on a supra before ,and see what data they provide 1 a CHT system and 2 a modified water stat system . See what data comes from them ?

About 10 years ago I did some testing - the stock intercooler pipe work is rubber/plastic ,aftermarket pipe work is usually aluminium . Aluminium absorbs heat about 1000 times what plastic does . I inserted a temp probe into the coupler of the up pipe behind the radiator and a digital gauge . then tested on road : the radiator heat out the rear of the rad was heating the air inside of the pipe . At low speed or stationary the temp rose dramatically, the faster you went the temp dropped .The FMIC worked quite well , especially at high speed but there was a sort of “plug” of heat caused by the radiator ,heating the up pipe , it cleared with speed after a delay . Next I insulated the up pipe with as much insulation as I could squeeze in the gap between the rad and the pipe It made a large difference in the air temp over the delay time period ,somewhere around 40 + degrees C is added by the up pipe absorbing heat from rad . But only at low speed So I thought the next step is to add a chargecooler into the up pipe ….heat is best removed at source ,ie pre turbo water injection ,but it has issues . Next is heat exchange via intercooler or charge cooler ,both will work and both work best at the highest temp diff . Using a chargecooler post intercooler is less efficient due to lower temp diff , but it will still exchange heat . downside is an increase in turbulence and slight pressure drop but it will remove the pipe heat off the radiator and drop IAT with a more constant output temp . In /out temps will show the drop on a gauge . And a dyno should show torque change with pump off and on and ice in tank . the stock IAT sensor is in the inlet manifold and will suffer heatsoak , how this is scaled with the Ecu and at what temps it pulls timing ,I don’t know …..but if I know the temps are constant and low at all times - this can be scaled back . I have not read of anyone trying combined cooling fmic and chargecooler so no data is available - so I’m giving it a go and see what happens - maybe it’s insignificant, who knows ?

MMO has been around forever , what’s in it has never been revealed , but it is pretty much a form of ATF . ATF has a high detergent cleaner level as will MMO - this is as it is used in autobox and auto trannys have very small internal passage ways and tiny ball bearing valves /solenoids- if these clog or stick the tranny fails . So the fluid has a high cleaning level to remove carbon from sticking to surfaces . So adding MMO helps cleaning things like tappets /rings / valve stems . On older engines using a non synth oil - they get sludge build up - so MMO was used as an oil flush ,prior to an oil change . It won’t fix a worn /knackered engine but it does clean well in both oil and fuel systems . If parking up a car for years - a squirt down the bores keeps the top ring from sticking - then hand crank before using the starter blowing out the oil .

A bit more done - pulled out the spark plugs and put some marvel mystery oil down the holes - left it for 2 days and some in the top end . Hand cranked the engine and it was smooth as silk . Then spun engine on the starter - again perfect . Compression check - mint . Back flushed the heater core and it was super clean , put some rad cleaner and hot water in and flushed it - again clean as a whistle . So looked at the fuel system - removed fuel pump hangar and drained the tank - fuel was a yellow colour (around 4 liters) but the tank was like new inside ,no debris or rust - perfect new plugs ordered and fitting a bigger new pump - I removed the air con rad - knackered - so now have room for the chargecooler rad - they are different from normal hot water rads as they deal with much lower temps . and the header tank can go in the boot now . The tank has a large filler to allow ice to be used . I am fitting a gauge to look at pre and post chargecooler temps in the A pillar (more wiring) , the pre cooler temp will also be the post fmic temp . Just to see what happens with cooler running .

50lb is about correct for that size stud , at work we always used molykote mso2 , molybdenum grease - just a dab - it will help with dissimilar metals - titanium into aluminium and allow them to be removed again over time -just drop the torque by 10% . there are a few things that bolt into jet engine hot areas ,engine cases etc and we always use a grease - used to be ease off 990 a nickel based grease but there was a move away from that - any seized bolt in a case that causes damage is around 1million quid ! When you start leaning on a socket to remove - it gets tense -lol

Nice looking manifold , do you have any feedback using titanium bolts ? I have used titanium fasteners before in aviation ,they are seldom used ,and pretty much always into titanium . Usually around jetpipes as they get so hot and titanium is common as it’s strong and light . But we always used special sockets , normal chrome vanadium are not used , I forgot why , getting old - lol . Also expansion rates between head / manifold /and bolts will differ- would this be an issue? Along with different torque values .

Radiator is back in , plenty still to do . Looking back …..if anyone thinks a total respray is easy …..think again ,it’s a massive amount of work ! I did mine as I had a small hole on one sill and a tiny amount of bubbling on the roof - both could have been sorted in a couple of days ! But there could have been more ……there wasn’t ! would I do it again ? no , use any and all inspection means ,bore scopes and access all areas - way way easier and cheaper ! Then add corrosion inhibitor . just getting new seals ,clips ,rubbers ,bolts , bungs ,and so on is a nightmare .

I worked in Basel ,for a time and drove my soarer there about 20 times - you need to carry a warning triangle , spare bulb box , dayglo tabard or jacket , on entering the country you need a vignette to use any main roads , around £40 as I remember - they have a lane you pull into as you cross the border to buy one . They also drive with headlights on at all times . The cops there appear to have nothing to do and will pull you over in a heartbeat !!! .most of the shell garages sell 100 octane fuel - bonus . I never had any issues over the 1000s of miles , and the cameras that flashed me in France ,did not result in any tickets !!! you seldom see any old cars there ,except Sundays , everyone seems to have a new car !!! Road surfaces are great compared to U.K. Lots of petrol stations have portable tyre chargers - they recharge on their hooks - you just take it to your car .

Rad ready to fit , and engine bay clean up starts ! It’s going take some time !

More interior going back in , painted some dash panels and plastics - a bit of a process , use a special plastic “etch “ primer then ,primer , then top coat ,then acrylic clearcoat , there are time limits involved between coats . Fitted new flex brake hoses . Removed old rad and checked the coolant . After such a long time the coolant was mint !! Toyota long life really is !!! more wiring to do

Amayama , show the breakdown of the 220 diff with part numbers - not U.K. but the bearings are all under $28 each ,seals also cheap and even retainers and all new bolts are cheap ,even with delivery and duty and a delay for delivery - much cheaper than the US . U.K. bearing prices have rocketed and even then they might be on back order ,multiples of the amayama prices !! - looks like the 220 diff is the US export manual trans diff - for searching purposes on amayama .

https://www.grannasracing.com/products/toyota-oem-220mm-big-6-speed-rear-end-lsd-differential-rebuild-kit?_pos=1&_sid=9fd24ca9d&_ss=r They all look to be toyota parts so maybe via dealer ? Or timken suppliers

Recently popped back in , still have the supra after all these years , and soon to be back on the road . I am now old enough to have owned over 40 Jaguars ,hence the name …and witnessed the total downfall of Jaguar ….the latest “exuberant modernism “ idea of Jaguar has left me bewildered!! The next generation are truly mental and they are in charge now . So one last effort to go loud and fast ,with the supra and then hang up my spanners. Soon we will all be driving milk floats …..

Slowly coming together again , lots of wiring in progress , fitting new head unit , removing the old greddy boost control display , ECU , and race logic RLTC , this leaves holes in the dash , so all getting filled and the dash then painted in body colour . The doors took a bit of time and patience …refitting all the seals and aligning and adjusting glass ,locks etc is quite a task ,getting it all spot on . Some delays waiting on little rubber items and clips and screws - each you have to get the part number and then wait on delivery . The chargecooler needs a radiator fitting and space is so limited up front ..so I’m looking at using underbody fuel coolers about 4 in series each about 18 inches long . They only sit 8 cm from the floor so can be hidden away but still may need a very small rad - testing will tell . This week clearcoat polishing - down to 3000 grit , should come up like a mirror - many hours Labour there !!!! The end is in sight ! I made a thermal blanket for the battery to keep it warm ,basically cut one from another car in half and sewed in together as the battery is half normal size ,it also has a flap over the battery top to prevent shorts - all worked out well as you wouldn’t know the battery is in the back and it sits solid just behind the rear seat