GMan

what front lip is that? I'd like one.

+1 I love the Prius one Printed it and hung it behind my desk.

Nice one, will have to share this with a few German friends of mine!

Wow I can't believe this thread is still going, My na is still going strong and not missed a beat. For anyone who is interested, a German guy down the road got himself a bog standard n/a auto supra about 6 months ago, so I took him down to the same dyno. His is a 1995 jspec na/auto with 159K kilometers in mint condition, power was 149.4 wheel we were so shocked we did a compression test and while I don't remember the numbers exactly his were better than mine! We strapped mine on and amazingly it put out 188 whp (220K kms at the moment). the only difference is I added some adjustable cam gears and did the standard TT settings I found on here which are probably not optimal for an na. I feel that the outlay of about $1000 us dollars for 38 whp is fairly reasonable and not a terrible investment. You wont even begin to scare a stock TT so if you are looking for big power go tt, if you want to go tt later just leave the exhaust manifold out, everything else like the exhaust and cam gears switches right over. I don't want to relight the argument. I myself am a big believer in forced induction. Turbo will always be better than N/A and the same mods on a turbo engine give you about 70+hp IIRC just wanted to make my daily driver a bit better without driving the insurance up. (Yes, unlike the UK, American insurance rates are different for N/As and Turbos) But now that the skyline is sold I will be talking to Keron about a tt swap, The Mrs' new NA will be the daily.

Please post a pic of the area that the paint is bad on, otherwise looks like a keeper PM sent,

If that ebay guy does not come through I will buy it from you, Been dying to get a second supra for the gf and this one is perfect, let me know and I'll be on the next flight up from Germany to get it.

Hadn't thought of that, will check that next and let you know Thank you Chris.

I have a severe problem with my j spec n/a auto supra , It idles between 17 an 18+ afr.The idle is stable if a bit rougher than normal.At part throttle it goes off the scale lean, pops and is very sluggish until you get some speed, then it is lean(16-18) but drivable. at wot(if the car is alrady at speed) the afr drops to a normal 12.3-12.7 and the car pulls hard. This had lead me to believe it was a problem with closed loop fueling which normally is faulty lambda sensors, so I unplugged both narrow bands (The wideband isn't connected to the ecu in any way) wich should make the car run rich and I reset the ecu, yet the problem persists if I stop the engine and restart it, i can get proper fueling long enough to accelerate properly across an intersection, before it goes into super lean mode again. This has happened to me in the past, and went away after my drive home from work, this time it looks like the problem is here to stay, I am starting to suspect the ecu. Please let me know if anyone has had a similar problem. Thanks

It's Not hard to build your own machine, I built mine for about $1200 Currently Specs MSI Micro ATX mainboard in a nice clear view Apevia case 3.01GHz AMD Phenom Dual core processor nvidia Geforce 9500 gt Graphics card 4gigs ram, (although windows XP will only recognize 3.5 GB so swiching to 64 bit windows 7 later tonight) Massive copper heatsink with 90 mm fan on the CPU 3X80 mm case fans 1 intake 2 exhaust o (Heat is the biggest computer killer, Overheating a pc will kill it faster than over heating your 2jz) 500W power supply Only took me about 3 hours to put together and smokes my Acer Aspire Z in speed go ahead ab=n build your own and stop getting raped by the Big name manufacurers I owend several Dells and my work Has a contract with them and they SUCK. I will never own another Dell

The top pipe along the side of the engine, now i understand what you mean, the confusion was that they come out at the front of the engine parallel. I like your set up with the thermostat, But Probably overkill for my n/a. I could smell the fluid after one of my extended high speed runs, and realized some additional cooling will help. It's a 5 pass Fram cooler so it would be probably only just be sufficient on it's own but should be enough for the high speed runs. I am mounting a manual bypass valve before the cooler and a y adapter after it, so i can bypass it during the winter months:)

hell that was close! Glad you are ok. I never lost brakes and had a solid pedal, it was always pedal to the floor with no brakes! Not trying to insult your intelligence but Have you checked to see if something came loose under the pedal, it's just that I have never heard of a frozen pedal.

I'll keep that in mind Thanks for the warning! I hate the smell and texture of ATF! only brake fluid is worse!

Didn't mean it like that mate, on mine the transmission lines enter the rad at the same level at the bottom, neither is above or below the other so i was thinking all of them were this way, I guess not though. Looking at the pics I can tell you my lines look nothing like that, I am going to have to test it the way Chris suggested

Sounds good I'll give it a go and let everyone know. Not the coolant mate, at the bottom of the rad are two lines that run ATF from the auto tranny through the radiator as a heat exchanger, I figure having the coolant go through that first will help shorten warm up time for the auto box, and once warm will take a large portion of the trany heat away like it's supposed to, afterwards it will pass through my auxilirary cooler mounted in the front bumper to shed even more heat. No need to remove the system that has obviously worked well enough for 18years just want to add some more cooling since I routinely see 220 to 240 kph on my weekly drive from Heidelberg to Frankfurt.

Hey all, I am mounting a transmission oil cooler this weekend in parallel with the stock Radiator cooling loop, I'd like to mount it after it has passed through the radiator. The problem is I don't know wich line is the input and which is the output. Thanks for any help Glenn.

Three men are at a hospital waiting for their wives to give birth, A London lawyer, A Jamaican Rastafarian and a Bricklayer from Liverpool. After a while a nurse comes out and says that there was a mix up and they are not sure which baby is which, she then asks if the fathers would come in and help identify their kids. The London Lawyer Jumps up and says: "I'll go first!" and runs past the nurse. A few minutes later he walks out with a black baby. The Rastafarian says: "Hey Mon! Doncha tink dat won be mine?" The Lawyer replies: "Problably, but one of the other two is a Scouser and I don't want to take that Chance!!!" I'll get me coat

You can use an auto ecu in a manual, just not the other way around so i imagine it's not worth the extra cost to change it for most conversions;)

I tried to convince my insurance it was a 3dr hatchback as the insurance on those is much less than a coupe, they put 2dr liftback on the document and continue to charge me loads.

Yhpm.

How did they get it in there in the first place?

I'll definitely take the stock skirts if they are still available. YHPM

You might want to include wheather you are looking for a j-spec or export spec ecu Injectors are different and j-specs are map and exports are maf IIRC

The piston where you dropped the valve is most likely DOA,It will at the minimum be heavily scarred from the valve contact which will mean sharp edges which will get very hot possibly causing issues in a diesel (almost certainly cause det in a petrol motor) more likely the walls are scored and the piston crown will be smashed as well so if you find a whole engine in a scrap yard, go for it but a head alone will probably not be worth it.

Fitted a GReddy type -a SLD to mine, took about 30mins for a proper job with soldered power wires. Very Easy TBH. Ive gotten to 245 kmh- 152mph(GPS speado is still in kms and just about to start a second lap)