GMan

It's an na and had horrible f40 style wheels on it when we got it. Reg number was m823urd. I'm sure its a fake bumper as for the droop it was not mounted well and loose on that side. just looking to get rid of it really and it will go in the bin this summer if i haven't sold it. I will try to mount the indicators on the pre facelift bumper if they don't sell.

My Girlfriend really hated this front bumper (do luck maybe?) so i got her a stock new one from mr T along with an RMM front lip and euro glass headlights. Finally got the car on German plates and will post some pics when I get it back next week. Questions are what is that bumper (pretty good shape with facelift indicators) worth? The headlights?

Has club stickers in it, does anyone know who the previous owner was?

Cant wait for the winter when I plan on driving mine up there for some work SRD will be the first place I look at!

Kim has several things going for him in regards to TUV 1) The average TUV guy is overworked, underpaid, and problably has never seen a supra before, Supras are incredibly rare in Germany because they were only sold from late 93 to 96 and the cost 100k DM or about 50K in current Euro put it in Mercedes and Porche territory.Germans are terrible badge snobs and most wouldn't buy a "Mere" Toyota over a Porche, Merc or BMW even though in 93 the Supra would crush just about anything they made. Sales were abysmal and I can't find reliable numbers but Most German Supra lovers and experts beleive that the number of "G-Specs" sold may have not even reached 4 digits. Back to the TUV guys, when we registered my girlfriends J-spec here he tried to fail us becuase there was no Grill in the front opening:blink: I had to prove that no supra in the world ever had a grill, so most german TUV guys know Fu** all about what is stock or not so emmisions is the key. 2) German Tunners love chrome and shiny bits and fancy engine bay paint and want everybody to see how much money and how much custom work is on thier cars. So thats what TUV and Polizei are on the look out for. The First things to get you noticed is a wild bodykit or loud exhaust which of Kim also has neither. 3) Just like any other motor vehicle department they are swamped with people every day! My GF and I waited over 3 hours just to get plates. Tuv will not go looking under engine covers that look stock and are flat black:sly: Honestly the only thing that might give Kim issues is the exhaust cutout, and we will be replacing the mid pipe for inspection day every 2 years.

The absoute majority >95% are stock. In Germany getting mods done to a car can cost an additional 100% or more to get legal and some can make a car unregisterable. Doubtless there are a few monsters out there but I could count on one hand the number of times my 450ish hp R33 skyline got bested from 2005-2009. Lambo Gallardo was one and not really by much. Kim shouldn't have many issues

Kim is using a clutchmasters clutch from the US along with the rest of the kit. It's supposed to be good for 800 hp and drive like stock. I can't wait for this beast to become home to Germany to smash on some Porches Lambos and Ferraris on the Autobahn. Kim and I got some nice HD cameras for videos.

Remember alot of forum members are not in the uk, I got one, my Girlfriend has one and my best friend "Kim1978" also on the forum has one too. Both mine and my GF's supras are j-specs poached from the UK and brought to Germany.

I have a full 90 mm obx exhaust with obx headers on my na so it was double decat and it was LOUD! 125 db at wot. It would not pass inspection as it was 99 db @ 3400 rpm for the noise test. With the second cat in and silencer it is 89 db @ 3400 rpm and passed. (Cat needed in Germany for a green emmisions sticker otherwise you are not allowed to drive into alot of cities) If i had to do it again I would go for a 2.5 twin box system as even at 89-90 db it does get tiring on a long trip. My 2p

Hi Keron, I need a new windshield washer tank as mine has sprung a leak. Price posted to Germany please. Cheers

Last week my stock crank pulley let go, outer ring just gone, fortunately it was at low speed in town and the only damage was it tearing the plastic under tray cover on its way down out of the engine bay. I'd hate to think what it would have done to my fluidyne radiator had it decided to go that way. It also sounds like I also have to change the aux belt tensioner as it stated making noise on startup, perhaps the pulley hit it on the way out or more likely the bearing is done after 19 years and a quarter of a million kms. new one ordered from the U.S. for $139 Since I plan on doing a tt swap as soon as one becomes available I decided to use mine as a guinea pig and fit the solid aluminum pulley I got with my full set of lightweight non under drive pulleys but was afraid to fit due to the information on the web. I intend to put updates on here about the life of the motor. the way i see it a replacement NA wouls only cost me fractionally more than a ati or titan pulley, and after this, I'LL NEVER FIT A STOCK ONE, just too much risk with all the failures I read about. I read that some dragstrips in the us won't even let you on with a stock pulley! As it stands: 225,654 kms on the clock, have done about a 100 since the replacement. so assuming that was the original it lasted 19 years and probably hasn't dampened squat in the last four I owned the car. my only complaint about the new one is that it doesn't have that large ring with the timing mark, I was able to put in a timing mark on the new but it sits fairly far back from the marks on the cover. Lets see if it blows up! looks like i also have to change the aux belt tensioner as it stated making noise on startup, perhaps the pulley hit it on the way out. new one ordered from the us for $139

Thanks guys, Listy, I appreciate the efforts, I'll take it if we can get shipping price a bit more reasonable with paisley, Keron I need a few odds and ends, so will be in contact shortly

As in the title, my Girlfriends new Supra has tears in her rear seat cushion and she'd like it sorted asap:whip: Again it's the bottom foam piece in good condition price posted to Frankfurt Germany please. paypal waiting. I'll give it a day or so before I go bugging Keron. Cheers

I guess you wanted to talk to nic, his was the manifold that was designed for a rhd car and stock sensors

it's just a simple usb-a to usb-b cable, any computer shop or electronics store will surely have one 1.11 pounds at amazon usb-a to usb-b cable

As you can see mine uses screw in type sensors, just make sure they are the right type, single wire sensors, clip the wire from your old ones and use electrical connectors to plug them back in. 4 years on and my aem ugeo shows the car maitians perfect 14.7 at idle and light throttle dipping down to 12.1-13.5 on wot. regardless of which type of manifold you get, the 16year old + sensors might be ready to be replaced anyways

OH MY GOD Some One please kill it with fire!!!!!!

I also use an Injen intake with hks filter and a 3 inch OBX TT exhaust Be warned that this is LOUD, 126db at wot, 99% of the time I drive with the silencer in which lowers the sound well below the 90db legal limit.

I have an obx manifold and it definitely did not clear the steering rack, took about 3 mins of heating it with a blowtorch and a few nice taps with a hammer to sort it

The car is looking nice, just make sure the graphics are up to snuff, I have seen the most hideous Golf's here in Germany like this one Crap graphics You have done far too much good work to cheap out in that part Oh Did you have to overnight any parts from japan? Sorry couldn't resist.

The OEMs do put them in there for a reason, I'm just starting to wonder if it's one of those "because that's the way it's always been done" kind of thing. The guy brought up allot of good points about the 10+kg sprung flywheel hanging off the other end of the crank having much more effect than a half kilo ring mounted on a strip of rubber. I desperately want to prove him wrong but maybe we all are.

Hey Swampy, I showed the guy that post along with the Dinan write up on harmonics. I think the science looks sound but the guy's challenge still stands, Find a recorded incident of a broken crank caused by a solid pulley. I am starting to wonder if the guy was right, It's like being told you have to take an expensive blue pill or your dangly bits will fall off. No one can show an example of it falling off but everyone buys the pill and because it hasn't fallen off, we all assume the pill works.

I would imagine loose flywheel bolts, given that they are on the opposite side of the crank and holding sown an item with at least 10 times the mass of the damper, would more likely be due to improperly torqued bolts. This would only be an argument if the car had never had the flywheel worked on. Having changed several clutches and a flywheel on one of my other cars I have never seen a properly torqued flywheel bolt loosen. one of my friend's cars had a rattling flywheel and two bolts were loose. the remaining 6 were all over the place (some way too much, some too low)Leading us to determine the previous owner was a retard who torqued the bolts down by hand without any regard to spec or a torque wrench. Regardless I appreciate your input and look forward to more discussion.

Hey Guys, Here is the situation, I just met a guy here in Germany with a solid Aluminum pulley instead of a Harmonic Damper. I told him what a bad Idea that was and how he would ruin his crank, even referenced some posts on here. That's when he asked me to prove it, He wanted me to find one 2jz crank that had failed due to having a solid pulley on it. I can not find a single one!!! He and I scoured the web for hours and not a single broken crankshaft with a solid pulley that has failed. Basically he said that I have fallen into all the hype to led people to buy a very expensive damper without any proof to back it up. So please someone on here help me find an instance of a broken crank so I don't feel like a fool for spreading, in his words, "Internet forum Myths" without proof. He has been running this pulley for 5 years+ on a German spec Supra TTat full BPU. He has owned his supra since 1995 and told me he has suffered 2 Stock crank pulley failures in that time, The second one took out his radiator and bonnet. After all of this I am starting to get worried about my 19year old (Probably) crank pulley and the difference between a $400 fluiddampr one and the $90 one he has installed. What I did find was lots of stock pulley failures so I'll go for the Fluidampr one if anyone can prove him wrong. Looking forward to some links to carnage.

Thank you very much sir my new lip is on the way! Super Cheap at $275 USD, abd you are right the white one is pretty much perfect.