GMan

Thanks for the comments guys I don't think 280 Flywheel (200 wheel) horsepower is that far off really, I'm already at 181rwhp so I'm only 19 rwhp away and you can see the guy lifted a bit early on the last run! I know because I didn't hear it hit the rev limiter! so My plans to make up the remaining 19 whp? Basic Bolt on's that I have on it right now are basically stage 1 I just bought a stock airbox from a member on here that I will be fitting to the front of the Injen short ram intake to give it a cold air source, with a K&N panel filter stage 2 a bit more than basic bolt-on's but nothing too extreme or expensive I'm looking to see what larger throttle bodies will fit the N/A manifold, thinking of something along 80 mm, Talking to some Honda guys (the non ricer type I assure you) I found most can get between 5-8 hp from going to 80mm TB vs their stock 60mm so it's worth a shot. Does anyone know any toyotas that use a larger TB? My AF ratios were in the high 10's at above 6000 rpm good for a turbo car to aid in cooling and preventing det but just wasting fuel and killing power on an N/A, I am on the lookout for an Apexi Safc II (I like them more than the neo due to the knock sensor reading)My experience tells me I can make about 10 more hp from leaning out the AFRs from 10.8 to 12-1, might even go to 12.5 if the EGT's and knock ratings low enough. This has to be done with caution, I have an AEM Ugeo wideband installed and will be installing an EGT gauge soon (probably tap the sensor into the #6 runner right near the head for a highly accurate reading of what is normally the hottest cylinder) Finally as I said above, I have made huge gains on N/A cars by increasing base timing when using premium fuelas most manufactures set base timing quite conservatively on Distributor ignition cars since they can't really pull alot of timing if some Numpty puts in low grade petrol like most modern coil on plug cars (IE 2jzgte)can when they detect knock This has the major side effect of increasing fuel economy and reducing EGT's Again this must be done with extreme caution or you can quickly destroy your motor. I will have a new set of det cans and a digital timing gun(essential) delivered shortly from the states. past results have shown 20+hp from this. After stage 2 I hope to be just over 280 hp (flywheel) or around 205+ rwhp Most of this stuff either costs me nothing but time (ignition timing) or will transfer over in case I go na-tt In fact the only Pieces that wont work are the header and the spark plug wires! Eventually I will go to stage 3 (wild stuff, I will elaborate later) once I buy a TT as a second car. Just to see if it can be done and keep the NA as a daily driver

Turbo Guys Please don't hate on this thread we know all of the arguments. I am staying NA for insurance purposes and as this is my daily driver atm Now that I have sold my Skyline I will be looking for a TT when I know wheather My job will remain in Europe or go back to the states later this year. You supra guys Have converted me!

Well I finally got a chance to get my N/A on the rollers on Monday. It was a Bosch Dyno at Oettinger Performance (Known for building bad ass VWs and Audis) Here in Germany and This Dyno is known as the Heart Breaker to the German VW/Audi tuning Scene because of it's typical low results. it is however extremely consistent and close to home so I'll be using it from now on. I don't have a baseline from when the car was stock, the best I could find was a guy in Australia who Dyno'd his N/A Manual on a Bosch dyno to the Tune of 126 RWKW 0r 169 RWHP. Mods to the car are HKS super suction kit/ with Injen IS Short ram intake OBX/R Headers and full 90mm Exhaust (double decat) Nology Hotwires Ignition wires w NGK BKR5IEX11 Iridium spark plugs, Dizzy cap and rotor replaced with OEM toyota items about 5600 kms ago Fuel is Esso Super Plus 98ron (93 AKI) The Guys at Oettinger were completely thrown at having to dyno an Automatic car, almost all cars in Germany are manuals, and they wanted to use 14% as a correction factor! That's brand new FWD manual territory! Anyways to avoid the whole debate of drive line losses I asked for wheel figures only. They also Scwed up and only have my torque curve for the first run and not the last:blink: Result 134 RWKW (179 RWHP) and 206 NM (152 Ft/lbs) W/Silencer 135 RWKW (181 RWHP) and 221 NM (163 Ft/lbs) W/O Silencer While the number seems low it is 9kw (12 RWHP) more than a stock MANUAL Supra on a similar Dyno. The Blue line was my first pull with an apexi active tail silencer installed, the red was without putting paid to misinformation out there about N/As needing back pressure to make power. Unfortunately the had no DET cans available so I didn't get to start adding timing safely with the good fuel in it, Which has gained good results on N/A Cars I have helped tune in the past (Helped a 3.2ltr BMW gain 24hp by switiching from regular to super plus and adding 6 degrees of timing) I'll be buying a set soon and bringing them with me next time! So now the part that causes all of the discussions Engine Power Assuming that the supra in Australia was making full factory hp at the crank (probably not) It would mean a drive line loss of 25% which is Very high for a RWD manual car About what you would expect from a manual AWD Car or a good Automatic actually. My experience with torque converter automatic cars is usually 25-30% Drivel line loss on relatively new cars. 18-20% on RWD manuals Taking the above calculations (Numbers are rounded up at >.6) 25%)135 rwkw/.75= 180 fwkw/.746= 241 fwhp or +16 Hp 30%)135 rwkw/.70= 193 fwkw/.746= 259 fwhp or +34 Hp Not bad for less than $2000 USD Investment Once I get a piggy back to trim the fuel a bit at the top end and some det cans to safely set the timing I think 280 fwhp (196 rwhp or 146 rwkw) Is easily reachable

do a compression test on it, if it's bent you will have 0 compression

Check your fuses, you may have blown some when you tried to jump it.

here you go bud TT style manifold for an na, but you will need a tt ps pump and tank http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Supra-2JZGE-2JZ-GE-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-JZA80_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51909d97dbQQitemZ350318598107QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

You might have a low temp thermostat fitted. I have a nismo low temp thermostat on my skyline and it does the exact same thing, quarter way up real fast then stops, will only go to half if i leave it idling a very long time, will drop down to a quarter almost instantly when i start driving

If you use a stock thermostat the temperature should stay about the same since the thermostat will start to close when the temp drops bringing you back to the normal temp but you will have much more cooling reserve when you are running hard. A larger Rad makes your thermostat work alot more so should always be accompanied by a new thermostat as an old one might be done in by all of the extra opening and closing

ultimate or blue?

Even more important on built engines with forged pistons as they have a higher coefficient of expansion

Easier to bump this than to ask again! Anyone? Cash waiting!

MKIV MK!!!! is just wrong on so many levels And wlcome

Classic

I have 3 keys, they all do it!

Just bought some! If it works, you my friend will get your first beer free if you come down to the Nurburg ring sometime

Hello guys and gals, about two days ago my ignition barrel started becoming a real pain to turn, once i get it to turn, it's fine but the next time i take the key out and put it back in i have the same issue, having to wiggle the key back and forth pushing and pulling until it finally turns. Ive tried turning the steering wheel until it locks then shaking that until i can get the key to turn but it doesnt seem to help or hinder my efforts. I am afraid it will seize one day and I'll be stuck. Any advice or recommendations will be much appreciated!

got one for sale, no harness though with box,manuals and cd 350gbp posted.

I'll take one of these as well!, Pm me a price deliverd to germany

Did anyone else on here notice that he was trying to do a burnout with a front wheel drive car? Yes he was an absolute idiot but lets stop short of Putting all Americans into the same category, or should We base our opinions of the UK population on this

If you guys nail down a date, I'd love to meet you there, (I live about 2 hours away) My German is pretty good and I could help with any translation issues that you may arise.

Hello all I would like to find a stock airbox for an N/A, Basically it's only to test on a Dyno this summer to see if it is superior to the HKS suction kit mine came with. I need the hard bit that sticks out of it as mine didn't have one when I bought it. Price quoted delivered to Germany please.

Where are you at Daniel, I am in Heidelberg

two word for you mate "snow tires" I have found the supra to be a quite controllable car in the snow on all season tires. I'm fairly sure a set of old 17 inch wheels and some proper winter tires will fix you right up for less than buying another car. That being said in the snow AWD is king FWD is good and RWD Better spend some decent money on tires.

Notice these are all the cars that are meant for the the people who don't love cars, and usually don't have a clue about cars or driving, we call them "Drones" Notice it hasn't affected a single Lexus. As an Engineer I can tell you that the competition to be put on a proper car project I.E. rwd, decent power, aggressive styling, Is intense. Therefore your sport cars not only usually get the best and brightest real gear heads designing them, you get less interference from the beancounters, trying to save a cent or two wherever they can. so you get spectacular cars that last, like the Supra. Unfortunately Toyota has fallen into the trap that GM did where the Accountants rule and people who are not car guys like us call the shots. the best example is the current Toyota line up(excluding Lexus), they don't have a single sports car! it's all fwd cost saving garbage. The only RWDs are trucks! Hence the massive fail!

looks identical to the 2nd cat on my N/A, is there a difference between the stock N/A and TT Exhaust systems?