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Everything posted by Kaamos
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Allright people, here's an update to my selling post. As some of you may already know from the PM's I was waiting for the bodyshop to send me some pictures... well, they are not all as useful as I asked (lazy idiots : they didn't even open the door to shoot the inside pictures...) so I'll update with more pics when I get new ones. [ATTACH=CONFIG]223470[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223471[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223472[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223473[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223474[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223475[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223476[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223477[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223478[/ATTACH] I also included shots from the day of the "crash". [ATTACH=CONFIG]223466[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223467[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223468[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223469[/ATTACH] I'm still waiting for confirmation from the legal services about selling a damaged car abroad - should be no problem but I'm waiting for the written info. Eventually, here's a detailed list of parts needed to get the car back to its former glory. [ATTACH=CONFIG]223480[/ATTACH]
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You can, unless you are in a "VE" (damaged vehicle) procedure, like I am now.
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Ok I first did not intend to bother you with useless details but just so everyone's on the same page here's the detail of the situation, I don't know, perhaps it's more or less the same in the UK. If the car is damages and the repair doesn't involve what the insurance calls "safety parts", then the car can be fitted with either oem parts (new or used) or even aftermarket parts as lo,ng as they are road legal (which is much more complicated in France than in the UK but that's another story). Now, if the repair involves those so-calles "safety parts" (in my case, suspension arms), then it's another procedure called VE (stands for "véhicule endommagé" in french, or "damaged vehicle") which temporarily "blacklists" or "disables" the reg plate, v5 and VIN of the car . The car is then sent to an insurance approved body shop, an "expert" comes, checks the car and would only allow new oem parts to be fitted. He would oversee the repair process after which he has to approve the car condition, then the car has to go through MOT and then only the reg plate/v5/vin are allowed to go back on the road..... In case the repair cost exceeds the value of the car or, in cy vase, if it's technically impossible to repair it (while meeting their criterias), then it's a write-off. 10 years from now when the car is 30yo I could fit used parts because the vehicle would be old enough to be considered a collector's car and then the rules are different....
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well I was just putting it in short... yes I can fit aftermarket parts (as long as they are road legal) but here after the loss of the wheel, it becomes an insurance issue : insurance handles the repair and tehrefore would not fit any part if there's no toyota invoice atatched to it, therefore no aftermarket and no used part. Toyotiy, jp-carparts and such helped me fonding the parts number but they are not available anymore, new from a toy dealer. Told you, shitty french law issue. Having it repaired abroad and sent back to france isn't an option either, as the "carte grise " (french V5) is "blacklisted" unless the repair has been acknwoledged by the insurance (sorry for the awkward explanation but I don't master the legal jargon in english)
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Hi people, my beloved supra has to go. Due to a shitty mechanic I lost a wheel on the german highway, didn't hit anything, lucky enough, and the car has minimal damage (worth 2.200£ of repair, parts + labour). Problem is, here in France, we can't fit aftermarket or used parts and the car needs a new suspension arm which is not available from toyota anymore. As a result, the car can't get back on the road here...... stupid paperwork madness..... It's a storm blue '94 TT UKspec auto 163.000miles Make: TOYOTA Model: SUPRA MKIV Transmission : auto Year: '94 Facelift: no Mileage: 163.000 MOT remaining: 6month left of "contrôle technique" (french MOT), car has french reg plate now Service history: most of it Car's location: Strasbourg, FRANCE Modifications: Full stock except : oem skirts + spats aftermarket exhaust (unknown, rather quiet) some hoses here and there 19" rota grids with toyo proxes on (about 50% left of them, 275 rear 245 front) rear spoiler has been removed BC coilovers dash lights converted to blue and panel painted in shiny gunmetal. jspec plastic headlights with black interior (eurospc LHD glass headlights in the pictures but I got the other ones left) Good bits: Let aside the rear left axle, the car is in clean condition. Bad bits: WARNING : the car is in Strasbourg, FRANCE, but for legal reason it can't be driven here anymore, only towed/loaded/whatever. PRICE : Waiting for sensible offers, if any [ATTACH=CONFIG]223100[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223101[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]223102[/ATTACH]
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mixing coilovers with OEM, how much of a bad idea would this be ?
Kaamos replied to Kaamos's topic in Supra Chat
or I can even put the current BC back on as, again, they are completely fine..... But, worst case scenario, I was planning on doing what you suggets anyway, thing is that there is a chance that I could have my insurance order new coilovers directly, which would be the easiest fix, thus I was wondering what behaviour I should expect from mixing oem and coilovers and use it as an argument -
mixing coilovers with OEM, how much of a bad idea would this be ?
Kaamos replied to Kaamos's topic in Supra Chat
Something along those lines.... some aftermarket parts are legal, others are not..... but legal or not, insurance is not gonna pay for aftermarket parts unless 1- OEM parts are no longer available OR 2- I can find an arrangement with them, one possible argument being "the car will behave like crap" Irony is that some parts will be replaced "just to stay on the safe side" despite they have been proven in perfect condition (shock, rim...).... France, don't ask.... -
Hi all, My insurance is running some repairs on my car and they want to replace my BC coilovers with oem shocks, but only on the rear axle, which would result in OEM rear and BC coilovers front. With this setup, not only would I expect the car to look stupid but I was also mainly wondering about the handling/behavior consequences....... ?
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That's not what i heard from my local Toy dealer, but it would not be the first time they are proven wrong though..... Does this mean that these parts http://www.ebay.fr/sch/i.html?_odkw=89546-14010&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsupra+wheel+speed+sensor+rear+left.TRS0&_nkw=supra+wheel+speed+sensor+rear+left&_sacat=0 labeled to fit 97-98 supes would replace my stock '94 uk spec tt broken sensor ?
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Thanks Delboy but let's say the parts are still available from the seller, I think the sensors are not the same since this is a VVTI car
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Got another no from JP-carparts, discontinued item so if someone here knows a way, I'm in
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I'm also interested in where you got these from because I need one quite quickly (rear left),I tried ordering from both rockauto and overstockoem BUT : -rockauto : prices are listed but parts are not actually available -overstock : they don't ship outside US
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Oh, somehow this did not refresh in my browser sorry, thank for your input David, I think I found the thread
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Nobody ? Apparently the correct name is speed sensor (rear left), part number is 89546-14010 but it seems like it has been discontinued by toyota
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Nobody ? Apparently the correct name is speed sensor (rear left), part number is 89546-14010 but it seems like it has been discontinued by toyota
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anyone with a decent condition sensor willing to ship it to France?
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UPDATE: the problem seemed to come from a worn bearing/wheel hub combination. Got both replaced but now the abs sensor (rear left) seems to have had it, and no dealer is able to get me the part here in France.... Anyone?
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ok I'll have them double check that I can't really tell, but I remember all the mechanics feeling like it does not "sound" like a worn wheel bearing, but as I wrote earlier the bearing will be replaced by a new one, be it only to stay on the safe side I remember taking the mechanic for a drive and yess he pulled slightly the handbrake while i was driving, this made no difference for the noise. It may not be that, then, as we seem to have removed the handbrake from the equation... or haven't we ?
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thank you all for your inputs, as far as I know, here's what I can answer : @DNK : diff was my first guess as well so I hafd them check diff oil, and also gearbox oil just in case. I gotta check back with them but i **think** diff oil was clean, gearbox oil had some grunge and a small washer came with it, undamaged... so prolly the grunge came from the screw that retained the washer. I don't know exactly how they checked the rear, all i know is that several shops had a look and they all said the whole rear end "seemed ok"... duh ! Any way upon last inspection at yet another shop they didn't wand to investigate too far since everything seemed too rusty to be taken apart safely without ruining the wheel bearing so I got a new one and I'll bring it with the car next week for them to have a closer look. @rider : I wish it were the cat, would ba an excellent excuse for an exhaust replacement/upgrade, but I don't think so.... I'mm give it a shot but I'm pretrty sure that if I have driven the car long enough for the sound to occur at it's full potential, it may even happen with engine off. @Herbie: no-one ever went that road so far since the sound clearly seems to come from the rear/rear left, at least that's my impression while sitting inside the car but maybe a weird resonance ? @David P: the whole prop shaft is said to have a little play, but nothing outrageaous and definitelky not enough for doing this.... now the center bearing, if I understand well (sorry for my english, but I'm french and I try figuring out which part is what) if it's the rubber disc in the center part yes it seems to be ok. @Pudsey: at one point I also thought this would come from the brake, maybe seized pistons or something, but "apparently" the brakes are clean, I'll have them double-check though.
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A little UP and update, now the annoying nois seems to have stabilized in such a state that it only occurs on throttle, and also depending on steering as follow : Straight line : the more throttle, the more noise, no noise when letting go unless after having driven for a while (45min+) Right turn : noise all the time, regardless to throttle or not throttle Left turn : hardly no noise, throttle or not
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Hi all, I'm coming back here tu submit again an old issue I had with my UK spec TT, already posted a while back here : http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?309672-strange-noises then the weird noise was gone, resurfacing from time to time and going away again without any toy dealer or other mechanic being able to diagnose nor fix the problem. But more recently the noise came back, more often and louder, until it was there all the time (a weird cracking/squealing noise, hard to define, see video below). Took the car back to the dealer, they checked the whole rear axle again without being able to disassemble totally because of the rust as they did not want to damage anything but according to them it's not the gearbox, not the diff, not the rear axle which leaves me pretty much clueless, so I'm coming back to you. The only benefit from the last time I took the car to the dealer is that the noise was there all the time and since they partially disassembled/reassembled the rear axle, now the noise goes on and off again for no reason. What is super-weird is that the noise, now that it is sporadic again, happens most of the time when I am super gentle on the throttle or when I release it completely and not when I hit it "normally" or more in a more aggresive manner..... but sometimes it's the other way round : the noise disappears when I release the throttle(-like in the video)....... and also when I come to a halt or on the first meters when i start driving again, there's a weird clonk noise that I can feel in the driver seat..... I know my decsription is lame but I have been unable to identify a cause-consequence relationship whatsoever so I'm just dropping what I have experienced.... Hope this rings a bell to someone. https://vimeo.com/186171770
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Thank you for your hints. In the meantime I made 2 small (not very exciting) videos to show the problem..... about noise #2, shooting them made me find out that if I don't use the brake (IE let the car slow down to stop in neutral or use handbrake), the loud cracking noise almost disappears.... here are the fantastic shaky movies : -low-speed city cruise, there's also a bit of noise #3 after the 1st turn in the 1st video https://vimeo.com/99535699 -some indoor parking stop-and-go's with windows donwn, no metal plates on the ground whatsoever, all you can hear comes from the car https://vimeo.com/99535702 This is a loud supra, but not the way you'd expect it to be :/
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Hi Since a couple of days I am having a whole bunch of weird noises coming from the back. As they all appeared together I made the assumption thay they are somehow related to one another. noise 1 appears : all the time, at each wheel spin description : high-pitched ticking sound occuring at each wheel spin (the faster the driving, the faster the ticking), forward and reverse, D or N (Auto gearbox). Seems to be there regardless to the speed except beyond a certain speed I can't hear it anymore because it's covered by engine and tire-roll. cause : comes from rear passenger wheel. Upon inspection I noticed that some "pin" of the brake-pad simply isn't there anymore (red-circled part in pic 1, taken from rear driver side). as a consequence, at each wheel spin, I see the part of the pad circled in green in pic 2 moving up and down at each TICK sound, showing the whole pad is a bit loose. Is it posible to order thoses pins alone or do I have to get new pads with all the fitting stuff ? my pads seem to have a fairly long amount of life still on them noise 2 appears : after highway ride, only when driving slow (about 20mph or less) description : lower-pitched and MUCH louder CLONK noise, still coming from the rear (passenger) area (?) causing light, still noticeabble vibration in the seat cause : perhaps a friction > heat > dilatation issue related to noise #1 ? sidenote : it seems weird to me but this sound sometimes happens only when turning right, sometimes only when turning left, and sometimes is constant when driving slow after a highway period..... then when I park and let the car cool down for a while the noise disappears. noise 3 I think this one has lesser links with previous issues but, still.... appears : after having driven for 0.5hr+ when heat builds up, when on throttle at given engine speeds-not always the same (disappears when off-throttle, disappears after cooling-down). description : lower-pitched machine-gun-like sound coming from the rear causing light, still noticeable vibration in the seat cause : perhaps a friction > heat > dilatation issue related to noise #1 ? and/or silentbloc problem as the exhaust seems to be a bit close to rear passenger triangle.... ? (rattleing noise while slow-driving on bumpy roads tend to make me think the exhaus is a bit loose as well) Thanks in advance for your help, I want my quiet supe back haha
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I get that narrower tires on the back will give better footprint and yes I am willing to have 2 sets of wheels, 19" summer and 17" winter. But 235 on the back seems really narrow and then for having 235-45-17 in the back, I fear the 9.5 stock rim might be a bit too wide, plus it might be an issue concerning insurance but this is another (french) story, gotta check this....
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Hi folks, Cold days are eventually arriving here and I'm feeling like it may be a good idea to finally get ready with my winter setup..... (hence my quest for 17"s in the WANTED parts section). I was about to go for stock size tires, conti 830 front and 790 rear (fot they don't build the 830 in the correct size for rear). Now the thing is, my local tire dealer highly recommands NOT to keep the stock, all season, staggered sizes and go for 235-45-17 all around (instead of 235-45-17front and 255-40-17 rear, that is). Out of the blue, this sounds a bit WTF to me but I'm no expert when it comes to tires..... What would/do you run guys as the "least worst" snow-setup ? (knowing that the best snow setup remains a beater while the supe sleeps in the garage.... duh !)